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PigsOnDrugs


Apr 27, 2009, 3:41 AM
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Stupid question on carabiners and chalk bags
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i feel mildly retarted for asking this but what carabiners would you approve to put a chalk bag on your harness, because im sick of the strap and i need a beaner that is lightweight and semi-small for a tighter hold


thanks for comprehending my stupidityCool


(This post was edited by PigsOnDrugs on Apr 28, 2009, 4:17 AM)


Myxomatosis


Apr 27, 2009, 3:46 AM
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Re: [PigsOnDrugs] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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Depends what colour chalk bag you have


ShibbyShane


Apr 27, 2009, 3:47 AM
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 One of those really small ones that isn't meant for climbing.


shoo


Apr 27, 2009, 3:48 AM
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Re: [PigsOnDrugs] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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I user two steel lockers opposite and opposed. I find that I'm more comfortable with the open gate strength of the steel 'biners. Gotta have redundancy.


caleb_danner


Apr 27, 2009, 3:49 AM
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Re: [ShibbyShane] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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ShibbyShane wrote:
One of those really small ones that isn't meant for climbing.

I think that i would want one that is fer climbing just for emergency n such


Brhino90


Apr 27, 2009, 4:16 AM
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Re: [PigsOnDrugs] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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PigsOnDrugs wrote:
i fell mildly retarted for asking this but what carabeaners would you approve to put a chalk bag on your harness, because im sick of the strap and i need a beaner that is lightweight and semi-small for a tighter hold


thanks for comprehending my stupidityCool

ya know those little tiny ones they give to you at job fairs and when the marines are trying to recruit you...I just use one of those. No point in overthinking it...all you're really trying to do is keep your chalk bag attached to you...so what if it's not rated for climbing, unless your bag decides to flash some routes I think you'll be in the clear...


Partner angry


Apr 27, 2009, 4:18 AM
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Re: [PigsOnDrugs] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back.

Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency.

Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too.

Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!!

I use a shoelace. No bulk and I can rotate the bag just as well. I realistically might blow some shoelaces some day and I can still tie the old broken shoelace back together to hold up the bag (doesn't work if you're fat).

If these safety nazi's were really safe, they wouldn't be in a situation where where they need 3 more feet of cord to save their ass.


blondgecko
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Apr 27, 2009, 4:18 AM
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Re: [caleb_danner] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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caleb_danner wrote:
ShibbyShane wrote:
One of those really small ones that isn't meant for climbing.

I think that i would want one that is fer climbing just for emergency n such

If you find yourself in such a dire emergency that you find yourself using your chalkbag biner in earnest, then you've really, truly screwed the pooch. That said, I keep my keys on a miniature Kong biner that's rated to 1.5 kN - but that's just because I'm a dork.


Partner angry


Apr 27, 2009, 4:22 AM
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Re: [PigsOnDrugs] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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PigsOnDrugs wrote:
i fell mildly retarted for asking this but what carabeaners would you approve to put a chalk bag on your harness, because im sick of the strap and i need a beaner that is lightweight and semi-small for a tighter hold


thanks for comprehending my stupidityCool

You might be mildly retarded.


jt512


Apr 27, 2009, 4:22 AM
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Re: [PigsOnDrugs] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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PigsOnDrugs wrote:
i fell mildly retarted for asking this but what carabeaners would you approve to put a chalk bag on your harness, because im sick of the strap and i need a beaner that is lightweight and semi-small for a tighter hold

If you're going to feel mildly retarded about something, then it should be about how you spelled "carabiner."

Jay


ShibbyShane


Apr 27, 2009, 4:24 AM
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Re: [blondgecko] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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blondgecko wrote:
caleb_danner wrote:
ShibbyShane wrote:
One of those really small ones that isn't meant for climbing.

I think that i would want one that is fer climbing just for emergency n such

If you find yourself in such a dire emergency that you find yourself using your chalkbag biner in earnest, then you've really, truly screwed the pooch. That said, I keep my keys on a miniature Kong biner that's rated to 1.5 kN - but that's just because I'm a dork.

Have to say, that's pretty cool. I didn't know they made little biners that were rated to hold ANY weight, let along 1.5kn!


Myxomatosis


Apr 27, 2009, 5:18 AM
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Re: [PigsOnDrugs] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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For a serious reply... I know its agasint the rules on RC.noob.com and everything,

But if you really need the lightest biner (usually one of those cheapies will do) but you could buy one of these...

http://www.camp-usa.com/...s/nano-23-124503.asp


d0nk3yk0n9


Apr 27, 2009, 11:04 AM
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Re: [ShibbyShane] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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ShibbyShane wrote:
blondgecko wrote:
caleb_danner wrote:
ShibbyShane wrote:
One of those really small ones that isn't meant for climbing.

I think that i would want one that is fer climbing just for emergency n such

If you find yourself in such a dire emergency that you find yourself using your chalkbag biner in earnest, then you've really, truly screwed the pooch. That said, I keep my keys on a miniature Kong biner that's rated to 1.5 kN - but that's just because I'm a dork.

Have to say, that's pretty cool. I didn't know they made little biners that were rated to hold ANY weight, let along 1.5kn!

Metollius (at least I think it's Metollius) now makes a keychain-sized biner that's fully rated to climbing. I so want one for my keys (and yes, I'm a gear freak / dork as well).


I_do


Apr 27, 2009, 11:15 AM
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Re: [d0nk3yk0n9] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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d0nk3yk0n9 wrote:
ShibbyShane wrote:
blondgecko wrote:
caleb_danner wrote:
ShibbyShane wrote:
One of those really small ones that isn't meant for climbing.

I think that i would want one that is fer climbing just for emergency n such

If you find yourself in such a dire emergency that you find yourself using your chalkbag biner in earnest, then you've really, truly screwed the pooch. That said, I keep my keys on a miniature Kong biner that's rated to 1.5 kN - but that's just because I'm a dork.

Have to say, that's pretty cool. I didn't know they made little biners that were rated to hold ANY weight, let along 1.5kn!

Metollius (at least I think it's Metollius) now makes a keychain-sized biner that's fully rated to climbing. I so want one for my keys (and yes, I'm a gear freak / dork as well).

Goes well with: http://adtuition.com/...ff/1%3B%7Esscs%3D%3f

Doesn't it?


king_rat


Apr 27, 2009, 11:40 AM
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Re: [PigsOnDrugs] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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There are two camps, those who use something that is rated to use as climbing equipment, and those who don't.

My only advice is don’t use something that looks like its rated to use as climbing equipment but is not. (like full size key ring carabineers)


blueeyedclimber


Apr 27, 2009, 12:47 PM
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Re: [angry] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back.

SInce when are straps BULKY. A strap puts the the chalkbag where I want it, not dangling and spinning around. Like you said, though, I can also move it side to side and even to the front if I want.

Josh


mikebee


Apr 27, 2009, 12:48 PM
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Re: [king_rat] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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How about using one of these: http://www.faders.es/...e&pro_id=400/8-L

or better yet, the locking version: http://www.faders.es/...e&pro_id=400/8-L

They're rated to 12kN, so they're as strong as most of your nuts or cams!


bill413


Apr 27, 2009, 12:50 PM
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Re: [Brhino90] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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Brhino90 wrote:
ya know those little tiny ones they give to you at job fairs and when the marines are trying to recruit you...I just use one of those. No point in overthinking it...all you're really trying to do is keep your chalk bag attached to you...so what if it's not rated for climbing, unless your bag decides to flash some routes I think you'll be in the clear...

Here's some information about those:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...iew_flat;post=715931


crazy_fingers84


Apr 27, 2009, 12:58 PM
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Re: [PigsOnDrugs] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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it is a carbon fiber key chain carabiner... and it only costs $20!

p.s. not intended for climbing


Terry2124


Apr 27, 2009, 1:15 PM
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Re: [crazy_fingers84] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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crazy_fingers84 wrote:
[image]http://media.rei.com/media/ii/7a7757c8-2c8f-4691-974c-56bed1e1cb17.jpg[/image]

it is a carbon fiber key chain carabiner... and it only costs $20!

p.s. not intended for climbing

Rip off


charley


Apr 27, 2009, 1:32 PM
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I tie mine on the back of my harness, near the haul loop, with a piece of cord. It works fine.


shockabuku


Apr 27, 2009, 2:04 PM
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Re: [angry] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
PigsOnDrugs wrote:
i fell mildly retarted for asking this but what carabeaners would you approve to put a chalk bag on your harness, because im sick of the strap and i need a beaner that is lightweight and semi-small for a tighter hold


thanks for comprehending my stupidityCool

You might be mildly retarded.

!


zealotnoob


Apr 27, 2009, 2:53 PM
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If it's on a biner, you can't pull it around in a chimney and it hangs low.

I'm no safety nazi, but my vote goes for the rated cord tied around the waist. If I need to prussic, I'll use that and my auto block cord. Or I'll use it for a rap anchor, need be. Why not?


bandycoot


Apr 27, 2009, 3:04 PM
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Re: [angry] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back.

Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency.

Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too.

Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!!

I use a shoelace. No bulk and I can rotate the bag just as well. I realistically might blow some shoelaces some day and I can still tie the old broken shoelace back together to hold up the bag (doesn't work if you're fat).

If these safety nazi's were really safe, they wouldn't be in a situation where where they need 3 more feet of cord to save their ass.

I typically agree with a lot of what you have to say, but criticizing people who use cord for the chalk bag just doesn't make any sense. It's not much bulkier than a shoe string, and it's functional. I've used mine and lent it out at the crag when someone needs one and doesn't have a prussik. I would call myself neither a safety nazi nor stupid (yes that is implied above). In fact, I'd call myself quite proficient and knowledgable, and able to get out of strange situations with minimal gear.

I recommend you take some 6mm cord and tie it around your waist to attach the chalk bag. It is a little less bulky than a "strap" and highly functional as a prussik if you need one! Wink

Josh


(This post was edited by bandycoot on Apr 27, 2009, 3:06 PM)


bandycoot


Apr 27, 2009, 3:09 PM
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Re: [angry] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
PigsOnDrugs wrote:
i fell mildly retarted for asking this but what carabeaners would you approve to put a chalk bag on your harness, because im sick of the strap and i need a beaner that is lightweight and semi-small for a tighter hold


thanks for comprehending my stupidityCool

You might be mildly retarded.

And, as I said, I typically agree with what you have to say...


Partner angry


Apr 27, 2009, 3:19 PM
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Re: [bandycoot] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.


bandycoot


Apr 27, 2009, 3:43 PM
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Well, my mythos shoe laces are about to go south, and I highly doubt I can thread 6mm perlon through there so maybe you're onto something! Smile


kachoong


Apr 27, 2009, 3:59 PM
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angry wrote:
PigsOnDrugs wrote:
i fell mildly retarted for asking this but what carabeaners would you approve to put a chalk bag on your harness, because im sick of the strap and i need a beaner that is lightweight and semi-small for a tighter hold


thanks for comprehending my stupidityCool

You might be mildly retarded.

See... he fell retarded for asking... like falling ill. If I were him I'd stop with the questions!


Seriously though, I clip mine to my haul loop with a regular biner (one that used to carry my nuts). If I were to use a cord that I may need to utilize later, where would I put my chalk bag then? Why not already have it clipped to a biner? Plus I've never been in a situation where I need to use that spare biner. If I get to a chimney or off-width where I have to use my back, I just move it to my belay loop instead.


ptrendler


Apr 27, 2009, 4:01 PM
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i usually just use a piece of cord, but if your totally into using a 'biner, hold out for the new full strength mini biners metolius is coming out with. i couldn't help but giggle when i saw the super tiny draws they are coming out with soon. but their might be some good times to be had with them.


Partner cracklover


Apr 27, 2009, 5:22 PM
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angry wrote:
Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back.

Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency.

Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too.

Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!!

I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik.

No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry.

GO


Partner cracklover


Apr 27, 2009, 5:23 PM
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angry wrote:
I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.

But I can take the core out of my 6mm chalk bag cord and use it as a shoelace!

GTongue


Partner angry


Apr 27, 2009, 5:30 PM
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cracklover wrote:
angry wrote:
I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.

But I can take the core out of my 6mm chalk bag cord and use it as a shoelace!

GTongue

ASDF ASDF ASDF!!!


robbovius


Apr 27, 2009, 5:41 PM
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Re: [angry] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.

hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree.


(This post was edited by robbovius on Apr 27, 2009, 5:42 PM)


robbovius


Apr 27, 2009, 5:46 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
angry wrote:
Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back.

Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency.

Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too.

Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!!

I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik.

No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry.

GO
maybe it that I'm just so much heavier than you campussing showoffs, that I don't notice the weight, but I don't have a problem carrying enough - to be sure, quite often too many - slings that I don't need to canibalize my chalkbag strap.. ;-)


no_email_entered


Apr 27, 2009, 5:47 PM
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Re: [robbovius] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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robbovius wrote:
angry wrote:
I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.

hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree.

then you have to replace 'spare cordalette' with 'hand job'---


---or 'eye gouge'


(This post was edited by no_email_entered on Apr 27, 2009, 5:47 PM)


robbovius


Apr 27, 2009, 5:55 PM
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no_email_entered wrote:
robbovius wrote:
angry wrote:
I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.

hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree.

then you have to replace 'spare cordalette' with 'hand job'---


---or 'eye gouge'

Oh I dunno, a hand job, while not a blowjob, certainly would set you off in the right direction.


Partner angry


Apr 27, 2009, 5:59 PM
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robbovius wrote:
no_email_entered wrote:
robbovius wrote:
angry wrote:
I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.

hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree.

then you have to replace 'spare cordalette' with 'hand job'---


---or 'eye gouge'

Oh I dunno, a hand job, while not a blowjob, certainly would set you off in the right direction.

How did this turn into another soloing thread?


Lazlo


Apr 27, 2009, 6:24 PM
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d0nk3yk0n9 wrote:
ShibbyShane wrote:
blondgecko wrote:
caleb_danner wrote:
ShibbyShane wrote:
One of those really small ones that isn't meant for climbing.

I think that i would want one that is fer climbing just for emergency n such

If you find yourself in such a dire emergency that you find yourself using your chalkbag biner in earnest, then you've really, truly screwed the pooch. That said, I keep my keys on a miniature Kong biner that's rated to 1.5 kN - but that's just because I'm a dork.

Have to say, that's pretty cool. I didn't know they made little biners that were rated to hold ANY weight, let along 1.5kn!

Metollius (at least I think it's Metollius) now makes a keychain-sized biner that's fully rated to climbing. I so want one for my keys (and yes, I'm a gear freak / dork as well).

Ooooo! I SO want one!


Partner cracklover


Apr 27, 2009, 6:26 PM
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robbovius wrote:
cracklover wrote:
angry wrote:
Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back.

Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency.

Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too.

Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!!

I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik.

No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry.

GO
maybe it that I'm just so much heavier than you campussing showoffs, that I don't notice the weight, but I don't have a problem carrying enough - to be sure, quite often too many - slings that I don't need to canibalize my chalkbag strap.. ;-)

See, here's the thing: If I aim for the low end of the number of slings I need, then 95% of the time, I've got enough, 4% of the time, I just need one more (that's when the chalkbag comes in), and the other 1% of the time I start using cam slings.

You, on the other hand: 95% of the time you have more than you need. This doesn't just go for slings, it's a general methodology. Slings don't weigh much, but cams, nuts, etc - it all adds up. As I'm sure you've found on some of your slogs to the base of a climb in backcountry NH.

GO


brotherbbock


Apr 27, 2009, 6:27 PM
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shoo wrote:
I user two steel lockers opposite and opposed. I find that I'm more comfortable with the open gate strength of the steel 'biners. Gotta have redundancy.
i use a cordalette to equalize my chalkbag.


Lazlo


Apr 27, 2009, 6:37 PM
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brotherbbock wrote:
shoo wrote:
I user two steel lockers opposite and opposed. I find that I'm more comfortable with the open gate strength of the steel 'biners. Gotta have redundancy.
i use a cordalette to equalize my chalkbag.

Sliding x? or tied off?


Lazlo


Apr 27, 2009, 6:44 PM
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I'm in the cord catagory. I use a 4mm cord. I've only needed it once. And it was a day when I also sacrificed both of my prussick slings too. It wasn't because of any mistake I made.

My partner and I headed up an old 8 pitch bolted route. All the anchors had fadded tattered webbing that needed replacing. I sacrificed both prussick slings and my chalk bag cord. And my partner gave up a few things as well.

Also

One of the safest climbers I know made a mistake in not taking enough draws up a sport route. He had to use his chalk bag biner on the last bolt.


brotherbbock


Apr 27, 2009, 6:46 PM
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Lazlo wrote:
brotherbbock wrote:
shoo wrote:
I user two steel lockers opposite and opposed. I find that I'm more comfortable with the open gate strength of the steel 'biners. Gotta have redundancy.
i use a cordalette to equalize my chalkbag.

Sliding x? or tied off?
tied off is the safer way to go when it comes to chalk bags. many an epic has been avoided due to proper chalk bag management.


robbovius


Apr 27, 2009, 6:57 PM
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cracklover wrote:
robbovius wrote:
cracklover wrote:
angry wrote:
Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back.

Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency.

Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too.

Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!!

I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik.

No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry.

GO
maybe it that I'm just so much heavier than you campussing showoffs, that I don't notice the weight, but I don't have a problem carrying enough - to be sure, quite often too many - slings that I don't need to canibalize my chalkbag strap.. ;-)

See, here's the thing: If I aim for the low end of the number of slings I need, then 95% of the time, I've got enough, 4% of the time, I just need one more (that's when the chalkbag comes in), and the other 1% of the time I start using cam slings.

You, on the other hand: 95% of the time you have more than you need. This doesn't just go for slings, it's a general methodology. Slings don't weigh much, but cams, nuts, etc - it all adds up. As I'm sure you've found on some of your slogs to the base of a climb in backcountry NH.

GO

Gabe, no matter how I try, and I have, for the semi-backcounrty rope solo trips, if I have to camp, its a 65lb pack. minimum. what doesn't kill me, makes me stronger. ;-)

you should see my rack these days, its 50% what it was when you clowns talked me into leading High E in 2006.


bill413


Apr 27, 2009, 8:00 PM
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angry wrote:
robbovius wrote:
no_email_entered wrote:
robbovius wrote:
angry wrote:
I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.

hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree.

then you have to replace 'spare cordalette' with 'hand job'---


---or 'eye gouge'

Oh I dunno, a hand job, while not a blowjob, certainly would set you off in the right direction.

How did this turn into another soloing thread?
LaughLaughLaugh


Partner cracklover


Apr 27, 2009, 9:21 PM
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robbovius wrote:
cracklover wrote:
robbovius wrote:
cracklover wrote:
angry wrote:
Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back.

Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency.

Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too.

Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!!

I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik.

No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry.

GO
maybe it that I'm just so much heavier than you campussing showoffs, that I don't notice the weight, but I don't have a problem carrying enough - to be sure, quite often too many - slings that I don't need to canibalize my chalkbag strap.. ;-)

See, here's the thing: If I aim for the low end of the number of slings I need, then 95% of the time, I've got enough, 4% of the time, I just need one more (that's when the chalkbag comes in), and the other 1% of the time I start using cam slings.

You, on the other hand: 95% of the time you have more than you need. This doesn't just go for slings, it's a general methodology. Slings don't weigh much, but cams, nuts, etc - it all adds up. As I'm sure you've found on some of your slogs to the base of a climb in backcountry NH.

GO

Gabe, no matter how I try, and I have, for the semi-backcounrty rope solo trips, if I have to camp, its a 65lb pack. minimum. what doesn't kill me, makes me stronger. ;-)

you should see my rack these days, its 50% what it was when you clowns talked me into leading High E in 2006.

That's great! BTW, I don't want to give the wrong impression - everyone should take as much gear as they need to feel safe. Trimming a rack below what you feel comfortable with is never a good idea.

Cheers,

GO


shockabuku


Apr 27, 2009, 9:27 PM
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robbovius wrote:
angry wrote:
I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.

hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree.

Lazlo wrote:
Ooooo! I SO want one!

I have to agree!


shockabuku


Apr 27, 2009, 9:30 PM
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cracklover wrote:
robbovius wrote:
cracklover wrote:
angry wrote:
Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back.

Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency.

Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too.

Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!!

I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik.

No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry.

GO
maybe it that I'm just so much heavier than you campussing showoffs, that I don't notice the weight, but I don't have a problem carrying enough - to be sure, quite often too many - slings that I don't need to canibalize my chalkbag strap.. ;-)

See, here's the thing: If I aim for the low end of the number of slings I need, then 95% of the time, I've got enough, 4% of the time, I just need one more (that's when the chalkbag comes in), and the other 1% of the time I start using cam slings.

You, on the other hand: 95% of the time you have more than you need. This doesn't just go for slings, it's a general methodology. Slings don't weigh much, but cams, nuts, etc - it all adds up. As I'm sure you've found on some of your slogs to the base of a climb in backcountry NH.

GO

So, uh, do you tie your shoes with an extra cam or something? I mean, what do you do when you run out of those? Surely you must normally carry some extra (or turns out to be extra) something?


Partner cracklover


Apr 27, 2009, 9:33 PM
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Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO


shockabuku


Apr 27, 2009, 9:35 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO

Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?


Lazlo


Apr 27, 2009, 9:40 PM
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shockabuku wrote:
robbovius wrote:
angry wrote:
I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.

hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree.

Lazlo wrote:
Ooooo! I SO want one!

I have to agree!
Funny.


Partner cracklover


Apr 27, 2009, 9:44 PM
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shockabuku wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO

Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?

No, with the chalkbag cord.

GO


gdtbave


Apr 27, 2009, 10:57 PM
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caleb_danner wrote:
ShibbyShane wrote:
One of those really small ones that isn't meant for climbing.

I think that i would want one that is fer climbing just for emergency n such
Don't do it!! you're sure to find yourself in a pinch someday. Will you be tempted to use the toy beaner?


bill413


Apr 27, 2009, 11:26 PM
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cracklover wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO

Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?

No, with the chalkbag cord.

GO
Then how do you sling the cam?


robbovius


Apr 28, 2009, 12:39 AM
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bill413 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO

Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?

No, with the chalkbag cord.

GO

Then how do you sling the cam?

puh-LEEZE, with a wired hex, duh!.


(This post was edited by robbovius on Apr 28, 2009, 12:40 AM)


Partner angry


Apr 28, 2009, 12:48 AM
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robbovius wrote:
bill413 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO

Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?

No, with the chalkbag cord.

GO

Then how do you sling the cam?

puh-LEEZE, with a wired hex, duh!.

This thread is making my head hurt. Does anyone have some Advil in their chalkbag?


Lazlo


Apr 28, 2009, 1:07 AM
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angry wrote:
robbovius wrote:
bill413 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO

Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?

No, with the chalkbag cord.

GO

Then how do you sling the cam?

puh-LEEZE, with a wired hex, duh!.

This thread is making my head hurt. Does anyone have some Advil in their chalkbag?

I have chap stick


wiki


Apr 28, 2009, 6:49 AM
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Lazlo wrote:
angry wrote:
robbovius wrote:
bill413 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO

Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?

No, with the chalkbag cord.

GO

Then how do you sling the cam?

puh-LEEZE, with a wired hex, duh!.

This thread is making my head hurt. Does anyone have some Advil in their chalkbag?

I have chap stick

Weird


robbovius


Apr 28, 2009, 11:14 AM
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Lazlo wrote:
angry wrote:
robbovius wrote:
bill413 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO

Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?

No, with the chalkbag cord.

GO

Then how do you sling the cam?

puh-LEEZE, with a wired hex, duh!.

This thread is making my head hurt. Does anyone have some Advil in their chalkbag?

I have chap stick

I have a camera.


kachoong


Apr 28, 2009, 12:41 PM
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robbovius wrote:
Lazlo wrote:
angry wrote:
robbovius wrote:
bill413 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO

Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?

No, with the chalkbag cord.

GO

Then how do you sling the cam?

puh-LEEZE, with a wired hex, duh!.

This thread is making my head hurt. Does anyone have some Advil in their chalkbag?

I have chap stick

I have a camera.

I like to grind up "Tums" and use it as chalk.... you never know when you may need some... and you can just lick your hands!


darkgift06


Apr 28, 2009, 3:29 PM
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I use an old locker & this is why, I was climbing with a friend whos just started & she was on TR & 1/2 way up when she freaked out ... & couldn't see what the problem was untill she yelled down that the belay side of the rope had found its way thru the biner on her chalk bag. Lucky she was on an easy rout & had good holds that she could get it off the rope, but it was akward & I saw it as a situation I didn't want to find myself in. I used tape on the biner gate untill I decided to retire a locker & move it to my chalk bag.


Terry2124


Apr 28, 2009, 3:53 PM
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kachoong wrote:
robbovius wrote:
Lazlo wrote:
angry wrote:
robbovius wrote:
bill413 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO

Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?

No, with the chalkbag cord.

GO

Then how do you sling the cam?

puh-LEEZE, with a wired hex, duh!.

This thread is making my head hurt. Does anyone have some Advil in their chalkbag?

I have chap stick

I have a camera.

I like to grind up "Tums" and use it as chalk.... you never know when you may need some... and you can just lick your hands!

I'd be a Tums addict, but get the flavored ones, tastes better.


no_email_entered


Apr 28, 2009, 4:01 PM
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darkgift06 wrote:
I use an old locker & this is why, I was climbing with a friend whos just started & she was on TR & 1/2 way up when she freaked out ... & couldn't see what the problem was untill she yelled down that the belay side of the rope had found its way thru the biner on her chalk bag. Lucky she was on an easy rout & had good holds that she could get it off the rope, but it was akward & I saw it as a situation I didn't want to find myself in. I used tape on the biner gate untill I decided to retire a locker & move it to my chalk bag.

just more proof as to why you should never top-rope---


---or use chalk at all


no_email_entered


Apr 28, 2009, 4:03 PM
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Re: [Terry2124] Stupid question on carabeaners and chalk bags [In reply to]
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Terry2124 wrote:
kachoong wrote:
robbovius wrote:
Lazlo wrote:
angry wrote:
robbovius wrote:
bill413 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Guess you skipped the post where I said that?

GO

Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?

No, with the chalkbag cord.

GO

Then how do you sling the cam?

puh-LEEZE, with a wired hex, duh!.

This thread is making my head hurt. Does anyone have some Advil in their chalkbag?

I have chap stick

I have a camera.

I like to grind up "Tums" and use it as chalk.... you never know when you may need some... and you can just lick your hands!

I'd be a Tums addict, but get the flavored ones, tastes better.

i miss the 80s when you just used an 8-ball of coke---

---the only problem was dropping the straw

---CLIMB ON!!


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