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diabasekyle
Aug 13, 2009, 5:17 PM
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Hey, I'm getting ready to road trip it for about a month and a half to 2 months, and I was wondering what people's opinion was on the best V7s in the U.S.? I'll be traveling mostly on the northern side of the U.S.... anyone got any input???
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ryanb
Aug 13, 2009, 5:58 PM
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I don't know about best in the US (or even best in WA) but "Premium Coffee" at Swiftwater near Leavenworth is pretty cool and classic if you like slopers...though I can't do the damn thing so take my recommendation with a grain of salt.
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limeydave
Aug 13, 2009, 6:36 PM
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diabasekyle wrote: Hey, I'm getting ready to road trip it for about a month and a half to 2 months, and I was wondering what people's opinion was on the best V7s in the U.S.? I'll be traveling mostly on the northern side of the U.S.... anyone got any input???
Midnight Lightning is V8.. Just sayin'
<--- Flail.
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CrazyPetie
Aug 13, 2009, 6:51 PM
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The best V7 in the whole US? Like anyone could even know that.
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diabasekyle
Aug 13, 2009, 6:57 PM
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Well I don't necessarily mean the best V7 in the whole U.S.... I just want to know a slew of great V7s across the Northern part of the country
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diabasekyle
Aug 13, 2009, 7:03 PM
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ryanb wrote: I don't know about best in the US (or even best in WA) but "Premium Coffee" at Swiftwater near Leavenworth is pretty cool and classic if you like slopers...though I can't do the damn thing so take my recommendation with a grain of salt. In reply to: Hey, I looked up pictures of this jones, and it DOES look super fun! Thanks!!!
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ryanb
Aug 13, 2009, 7:15 PM
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If you hit up Leavenworth, also check out "Mad Max" ... see "Central Washington Bouldering"
This is getting me stoked for fall bouldering season.
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pseudolith
Aug 13, 2009, 7:28 PM
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Great White. HP40.
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k.l.k
Aug 13, 2009, 7:50 PM
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Carnivore.
Heh.
Cracker Boys. Firewall. Etc.
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dlintz
Aug 13, 2009, 8:01 PM
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pseudolith wrote: Great White. HP40.
Cool problem but not exactly in the northern part of the country.
d.
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curt
Aug 15, 2009, 4:39 AM
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limeydave wrote: diabasekyle wrote: Hey, I'm getting ready to road trip it for about a month and a half to 2 months, and I was wondering what people's opinion was on the best V7s in the U.S.? I'll be traveling mostly on the northern side of the U.S.... anyone got any input??? Midnight Lightning is V8.. Just sayin'
Hmmm, used to be V7--must be grade inflation at work.
Curt
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iamthewallress
Aug 15, 2009, 5:31 AM
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Best or easiest? B/c the grade range if pretty narrow if you're looking for quality.
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irregularpanda
Aug 15, 2009, 8:43 AM
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High plains drifter, Bishop.
I heard there's a couple other pieces of rock there too.
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limeydave
Aug 15, 2009, 1:08 PM
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curt wrote: limeydave wrote: diabasekyle wrote: Hey, I'm getting ready to road trip it for about a month and a half to 2 months, and I was wondering what people's opinion was on the best V7s in the U.S.? I'll be traveling mostly on the northern side of the U.S.... anyone got any input??? Midnight Lightning is V8.. Just sayin' Hmmm, used to be V7--must be grade inflation at work. Curt
One grade in 30 years is consensus surely.
V7/V8 doesn't matter to me, I still can't do it!
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rhythm164
Aug 15, 2009, 2:59 PM
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Budda is a Gunks classic for sure
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curt
Aug 15, 2009, 5:51 PM
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limeydave wrote: curt wrote: limeydave wrote: diabasekyle wrote: Hey, I'm getting ready to road trip it for about a month and a half to 2 months, and I was wondering what people's opinion was on the best V7s in the U.S.? I'll be traveling mostly on the northern side of the U.S.... anyone got any input??? Midnight Lightning is V8.. Just sayin' Hmmm, used to be V7--must be grade inflation at work. Curt One grade in 30 years is consensus surely.
Quite remarkable, since the "V" grading system appeared for the first time anywhere only 18 years ago in John Sherman's original guide book to Hueco Tanks.
In that book, he compares "V" ratings for selected Hueco Tanks boulder problems to the difficulty levels of other well known boulder problems across the country. And, he therein calls Midnight Lightning a V7.
Curt
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limeydave
Aug 15, 2009, 6:11 PM
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curt wrote: limeydave wrote: curt wrote: limeydave wrote: diabasekyle wrote: Hey, I'm getting ready to road trip it for about a month and a half to 2 months, and I was wondering what people's opinion was on the best V7s in the U.S.? I'll be traveling mostly on the northern side of the U.S.... anyone got any input??? Midnight Lightning is V8.. Just sayin' Hmmm, used to be V7--must be grade inflation at work. Curt One grade in 30 years is consensus surely. Quite remarkable, since the "V" grading system appeared for the first time anywhere only 18 years ago in John Sherman's original guide book to Hueco Tanks. In that book, he compares "V" ratings for selected Hueco Tanks boulder problems to the difficulty levels of other well known boulder problems across the country. And, he therein calls Midnight Lightning a V7. Curt
You're not wrong.
Verm was probably drunk when he wrote that though :)
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boulderTroll
Aug 15, 2009, 7:31 PM
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California has a few.
in Yosemite there is: The King V7, The Hexcentric V7, King Cobra V8, Midnight Lightning V8, and many more...
in Bishop there is: Morning Dove White V7, Los Locos V7, High Plains Drifter V7, Mesothelioma V7, The Checkerboard V8, and too many more to list.
Hope this helps out with your little list of problems.
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k.l.k
Aug 15, 2009, 7:49 PM
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curt wrote: limeydave wrote: curt wrote: limeydave wrote: diabasekyle wrote: Hey, I'm getting ready to road trip it for about a month and a half to 2 months, and I was wondering what people's opinion was on the best V7s in the U.S.? I'll be traveling mostly on the northern side of the U.S.... anyone got any input??? Midnight Lightning is V8.. Just sayin' Hmmm, used to be V7--must be grade inflation at work. Curt One grade in 30 years is consensus surely. Quite remarkable, since the "V" grading system appeared for the first time anywhere only 18 years ago in John Sherman's original guide book to Hueco Tanks. In that book, he compares "V" ratings for selected Hueco Tanks boulder problems to the difficulty levels of other well known boulder problems across the country. And, he therein calls Midnight Lightning a V7.
That was before he failed on it.
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curt
Aug 15, 2009, 8:47 PM
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k.l.k wrote: curt wrote: limeydave wrote: curt wrote: limeydave wrote: diabasekyle wrote: Hey, I'm getting ready to road trip it for about a month and a half to 2 months, and I was wondering what people's opinion was on the best V7s in the U.S.? I'll be traveling mostly on the northern side of the U.S.... anyone got any input??? Midnight Lightning is V8.. Just sayin' Hmmm, used to be V7--must be grade inflation at work. Curt One grade in 30 years is consensus surely. Quite remarkable, since the "V" grading system appeared for the first time anywhere only 18 years ago in John Sherman's original guide book to Hueco Tanks. In that book, he compares "V" ratings for selected Hueco Tanks boulder problems to the difficulty levels of other well known boulder problems across the country. And, he therein calls Midnight Lightning a V7. That was before he failed on it.
Oooh, burn. Anyway, everybody knows that Midnight Lightning is really B2. 
Curt
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roclimb
Aug 18, 2009, 11:21 PM
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Traveling North,
Devils Lake in Wis. has a some cool stuff. I would recommend the black hills. The rock ther is pretty cool and there are a few good V7s.
Stop at Homestake Pass near Butte, MT. It s like J Tree in Montana. Bozeman has some great limestone V7s as well.
If you pass through Spokane, Liberty park has a V7 in the cave that is fantastic!
Anything in Leavenworth or Goldbar that is in the V7 range is mega classic.
~Rob
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sungam
Aug 18, 2009, 11:44 PM
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ryanb wrote: I don't know about best in the US (or even best in WA) but "Premium Coffee" at Swiftwater near Leavenworth is pretty cool and classic if you like slopers...though I can't do the damn thing so take my recommendation with a grain of salt.
Yesh, Icicle road has the best bouldering I've seen in the country.
Too bad the town is so run down and redneck.
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ryanb
Aug 19, 2009, 12:06 AM
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sungam wrote: ryanb wrote: I don't know about best in the US (or even best in WA) but "Premium Coffee" at Swiftwater near Leavenworth is pretty cool and classic if you like slopers...though I can't do the damn thing so take my recommendation with a grain of salt. Welcommin en leavenworth! Yesh, Icicle road has the best bouldering I've seen in the country. Too bad the town is so run down and redneck.
You want run down and redneck check out index.
I'll probably be there (index) this weekend, if you are still in wa i'll keep my eyes open.
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sungam
Aug 19, 2009, 12:11 AM
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ryanb wrote: sungam wrote: ryanb wrote: I don't know about best in the US (or even best in WA) but "Premium Coffee" at Swiftwater near Leavenworth is pretty cool and classic if you like slopers...though I can't do the damn thing so take my recommendation with a grain of salt. Welcommin en leavenworth! Yesh, Icicle road has the best bouldering I've seen in the country. Too bad the town is so run down and redneck. You want run down and redneck check out index. I'll probably be there (index) this weekend, if you are still in wa i'll keep my eyes open.
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PatMcGinn
Sep 10, 2009, 1:30 AM
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In Pawtuckaway Up in Smoke and The Rose are considered the best V7's in new england (opinion). I think Budda at the gunks is v8 but still classic and The Impossible problem in Vermont is classic (although the pocket is getting bigger). Any of the New England V7's in my opinion are just as good as something in the south.
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yuiruprup
Oct 6, 2009, 4:42 PM
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"The Flame" at Area E outside of Boone, North Carolina.
I will put it up against anything.
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eddie_munster
Oct 17, 2009, 3:44 AM
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curt wrote: limeydave wrote: diabasekyle wrote: Hey, I'm getting ready to road trip it for about a month and a half to 2 months, and I was wondering what people's opinion was on the best V7s in the U.S.? I'll be traveling mostly on the northern side of the U.S.... anyone got any input??? Midnight Lightning is V8.. Just sayin' Hmmm, used to be V7--must be grade inflation at work. Curt
midnight is fully V8. It's a lot more polished than when you did it, and it was misgraded to begin with. It was called V7 by peeps that didn't even do it, like Sherman and Gingery. Compare it to the other "standards for V8" like mushroom roof (can u say jug haul..)
Although there are many classics to choose from, the most classic V7 is hands down High Plains Drifter at the Milks. It is both a proud line, and has the most historical significance.
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marc801
Oct 17, 2009, 5:07 AM
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diabasekyle wrote: Well I don't necessarily mean the best V7 in the whole U.S....
Apparently the English language isn't one of your strong points.
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k.l.k
Oct 19, 2009, 8:00 PM
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eddie_munster wrote: curt wrote: limeydave wrote: diabasekyle wrote: Hey, I'm getting ready to road trip it for about a month and a half to 2 months, and I was wondering what people's opinion was on the best V7s in the U.S.? I'll be traveling mostly on the northern side of the U.S.... anyone got any input??? Midnight Lightning is V8.. Just sayin' Hmmm, used to be V7--must be grade inflation at work. Curt midnight is fully V8. It's a lot more polished than when you did it, and it was misgraded to begin with. It was called V7 by peeps that didn't even do it, like Sherman and Gingery. Compare it to the other "standards for V8" like mushroom roof (can u say jug haul..) Although there are many classics to choose from, the most classic V7 is hands down High Plains Drifter at the Milks. It is both a proud line, and has the most historical significance.
What would make HPD historically significant?
For that matter, what would make it a proud line? It's just a non-descript cluster of razor muffins on a random bulge.
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dolphja
Oct 19, 2009, 8:20 PM
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if you're just driving across the northern part of the country, this is one you need to check out
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Bouldering/Quarry_Boulder_89022.html
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dreday3000
Oct 20, 2009, 1:53 PM
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Good contendors
Roughage
Babyface
Disposable Heros
(All in Hueco Tanks)
The Phoenix (in Castle Hill)
Super Sharp Shooter (in Niagra Glen)
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josiahdood
Dec 1, 2009, 9:57 AM
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I think "The Checkerboard" at the Buttermilks may be V7 - probably one of my all time hope-I-can-someday-climb-it problems. Very aesthetic. A slew of upper moderate bouldering at the Happies and Sads as well.
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I_do
Dec 1, 2009, 1:57 PM
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Myxomatosis wrote: dreday3000 wrote: The Phoenix (in Castle Hill) Hahah I had like five goes at the Phoenix and gave up  Have you done Monkey See Monkey Do? or Captain Sassy Pants at Flock? Two more world class V7/8's at Castle.
For some of the V0's it only took me one try to give up
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Myxomatosis
Dec 1, 2009, 2:03 PM
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I_do wrote: Myxomatosis wrote: dreday3000 wrote: The Phoenix (in Castle Hill) Hahah I had like five goes at the Phoenix and gave up Have you done Monkey See Monkey Do? or Captain Sassy Pants at Flock? Two more world class V7/8's at Castle. For some of the V0's it only took me one try to give up
Haha. I will admit there was a few V1's I failed to flash..
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dreday3000
Dec 1, 2009, 2:39 PM
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Myxomatosis wrote: Have you done Monkey See Monkey Do? or Captain Sassy Pants at Flock? Two more world class V7/8's at Castle.
Its been awhile since my Castle Hill days. Is that a tallish arete? Trends left?
Also seem to remember a really nice highball v1/v2 over there. Sunshine arete maybe?
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Myxomatosis
Dec 1, 2009, 3:19 PM
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dreday3000 wrote: Myxomatosis wrote: Have you done Monkey See Monkey Do? or Captain Sassy Pants at Flock? Two more world class V7/8's at Castle. Its been awhile since my Castle Hill days. Is that a tallish arete? Trends left? Also seem to remember a really nice highball v1/v2 over there. Sunshine arete maybe?
Monkey See Monkey Do is jump start to left arete/hold then you like knee bar/toe hook slap up right then up left.
Yeah sunshine arete.... That is one tall problem! I had to save a tourist on another boulder who decided to climb passed bolts and then couldn't get down.. Clearly if you going passed bolts something is a miss!
Did you ever give Cyclops V5 a go? Shit that thing is tall and hard to get down off...
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dreday3000
Dec 1, 2009, 5:11 PM
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Myxomatosis wrote: dreday3000 wrote: Myxomatosis wrote: Did you ever give Cyclops V5 a go? Shit that thing is tall and hard to get down off... Yeah that is at quantum right? Big smooth heuco right? Also really like that v6 thing....the Whale. Has some nice stemming followed by a wicked mantle. Fell off the top out on that thing many times before figuring it out. Also really like Fatwa. Tough mantle on that too
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rckymtnlowballer
Mar 3, 2010, 7:27 PM
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Hey while we're at it .. I'm going on a road trip as well. Does anyone have a list of the best V13's in the US? It would really be helpful. Thanks guys!
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jbrown2
Mar 9, 2010, 8:04 PM
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Baba Hari Das in squamish. yum yum
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