Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Best Waterproof Shell?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


unrest


Oct 16, 2009, 4:19 AM
Post #1 of 50 (17333 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2009
Posts: 196

Best Waterproof Shell?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Out with it folks? I want to know what you you think the very best waterproof shell is for the money. I recently picked up a Marmott DriClime at REI for $30 (yeah no kidding brand new and $30). It's a bit tight on the shoulders. I nabbed a medium. All the rest of the jacket is awesome and I only mention this for a size comparison.

So I want a bomber waterproof shell only. I don't need insulation at all in fact I don't want it at all. Well here:

- No insulation.
- Rugged (use mixed climbing) and of course sledding and not that sissy tube crap. I mean the real deal, metal rail full throttle sledding. :)
- Must be waterproof. I mean proof.
- Breathable a definite bonus.
- Needs to have some pockets for stowing stuff.

Price isn't really an option but I'd like the best value for the money spent. Right now I'd like to aim for $200 to $300 but would spend more.

I can pair it up with a primaloft top, merino wool t-shirt and long sleeve shirt and that's enough to handle most of my outings.

I'm hell bent on staying dry though and when I say dry I mean from outside in but I'd really love to not have 100% humidity under the zipper either.


northfacejmb


Oct 16, 2009, 5:22 AM
Post #2 of 50 (17313 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 234

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have had the OR Mentor for a couple years and I'm very happy with it. It takes a beating and comes out looking like new. Plus its nice to know that with OR's infinite guarantee if it ever does get torn up I can send it in and have it repaired or replaced for free. Idk how you can beat that..


rhythm164


Oct 16, 2009, 5:50 AM
Post #3 of 50 (17301 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have a Patagonia Jetstream that's great. I use it for work in the field in addition to all it's expected uses and it takes a real beating and keeps me dry. Quality is great, super durable and pretty light as well.


sungam


Oct 16, 2009, 8:39 AM
Post #4 of 50 (17272 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The new pro shell material from goretex is worth looking into.
I picked up a marmot exum for like 180 bucks earlier this year. Used it in the bugs (no serious storms), in Squamish (we got pissed on) and Leavenworth (again, pissed on) Never a drop came through, and I was definitely impressed by how much more breathable it was then my old goretex jacket. Event is meant to be really good, too.


trapdoor


Oct 16, 2009, 8:59 AM
Post #5 of 50 (17262 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 27, 2003
Posts: 183

Re: [sungam] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you want the most breathable stuff only Event will do.


sungam


Oct 16, 2009, 9:17 AM
Post #6 of 50 (17261 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [trapdoor] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

trapdoor wrote:
If you want the most breathable stuff only Event will do.
Unless you're planning on getting dirty, though that's likely not an issues winter climbing.


nikmit


Oct 16, 2009, 1:07 PM
Post #7 of 50 (17223 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 10, 2009
Posts: 55

Re: [rhythm164] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rhythm164 wrote:
I have a Patagonia Jetstream that's great. I use it for work in the field in addition to all it's expected uses and it takes a real beating and keeps me dry. Quality is great, super durable and pretty light as well.
Jetstream +1
Only problem with the jacket is that is SUPER thin. I've managed to rip mine during fall with the spike of the ice axe.


james481


Oct 16, 2009, 9:50 PM
Post #8 of 50 (17170 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 10, 2007
Posts: 201

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Of course, like anything, the "best" is a pretty subjective thing, but I would say the "best" technical shell should:

1) Be made of eVent
2) Have heavy enough face and backing fabrics for withstanding abuse
3) Be constructed with extreme attention to detail and care (the best waterproof membrane doesn't help if the seams leak)
4) Be designed for easy use with a backpack and harness

So, to my knowledge, this pretty much leaves you with the choice between Rab and Montane (and possibly REI, though I haven't really examined their eVent shells closely). Rab and Montane are both companies based in the UK, so their stuff can be difficult to track down here in the states (Neptune Mountaineering here in Boulder carries Rab, and Montane can be ordered from several dealers in the UK). Personally, I chose the Montane Super Fly XT, and have been quite happy with it.


(This post was edited by james481 on Oct 16, 2009, 9:50 PM)


dynosore


Oct 17, 2009, 12:12 AM
Post #9 of 50 (17136 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Helly Hansen. I've had over a dozen breathable rain shells and they make the best, period. I do an annual hiking, climbing, and halibut fishing pilgrimage to Alaska every summer, so I put my gear to the test. Better than Arcteryx, Patagonia, etc. They nail all the small details, and their fabric is as breathable as e-vent.


carabiner96


Oct 17, 2009, 12:25 AM
Post #10 of 50 (17129 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610

Re: [james481] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Westcomb uses Event and I know Climb High distributes them.


hafilax


Oct 17, 2009, 12:37 AM
Post #11 of 50 (17127 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

unrest wrote:
Out with it folks? I want to know what you you think the very best waterproof shell is for the money. I recently picked up a Marmott DriClime at REI for $30 (yeah no kidding brand new and $30). It's a bit tight on the shoulders. I nabbed a medium. All the rest of the jacket is awesome and I only mention this for a size comparison.

So I want a bomber waterproof shell only. I don't need insulation at all in fact I don't want it at all. Well here:

- No insulation.
- Rugged (use mixed climbing) and of course sledding and not that sissy tube crap. I mean the real deal, metal rail full throttle sledding. :)
- Must be waterproof. I mean proof.
- Breathable a definite bonus.
- Needs to have some pockets for stowing stuff.

Price isn't really an option but I'd like the best value for the money spent. Right now I'd like to aim for $200 to $300 but would spend more.

I can pair it up with a primaloft top, merino wool t-shirt and long sleeve shirt and that's enough to handle most of my outings.

I'm hell bent on staying dry though and when I say dry I mean from outside in but I'd really love to not have 100% humidity under the zipper either.
Do you not sweat? I think you're undervaluing breatheability. The Arc'teryx SV stuff is pretty rugged and well designed for climbing.

I'd be inclined to get a softshell and a hardshell but I'm a softshell fanatic because I'm a sweaty beast.


unrest


Oct 17, 2009, 2:44 AM
Post #12 of 50 (17104 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2009
Posts: 196

Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oh geez I sweat in gallons so yeah breathability is a big issue. I thought I mentioned that in a reply somewhere...

What do people think of the Mountain Hardware Exposure II? It was next to the eVent stuff. The salesperson said it was comparable. The particular eVent piece I was looking at was insulated and bulky. I didn't want that. The Mountain Hardware had *EVERYTHING* I was after. Reinforced elbows, breathable, nice all around or so it seemed seamed.Wink


carabiner96


Oct 17, 2009, 3:12 AM
Post #13 of 50 (17096 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610

Re: [unrest] Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

unrest wrote:
Oh geez I sweat in gallons so yeah breathability is a big issue. I thought I mentioned that in a reply somewhere...

What do people think of the Mountain Hardware Exposure II? It was next to the eVent stuff. The salesperson said it was comparable. The particular eVent piece I was looking at was insulated and bulky. I didn't want that. The Mountain Hardware had *EVERYTHING* I was after. Reinforced elbows, breathable, nice all around or so it seemed seamed.Wink

so get it! but doesn't the exposure have the hanging mesh layer? i find that hardshells that are just a single layer hold up best (theres 2 v. 3 layer, I forget which is which)


unrest


Oct 17, 2009, 3:17 AM
Post #14 of 50 (17092 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2009
Posts: 196

Re: [carabiner96] Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes. Hanging mesh layer. What's the bad side with that?


carabiner96


Oct 17, 2009, 3:18 AM
Post #15 of 50 (17089 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610

Re: [unrest] Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

unrest wrote:
Yes. Hanging mesh layer. What's the bad side with that?

I've had then/had customers complain about them ripping...well before the shell has seen its life. Can also get beat up in the wash. They do feel nice against the skin though.

I think we carry the exposure, it's nice...but i think you could do better.


unrest


Oct 17, 2009, 3:20 AM
Post #16 of 50 (17086 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2009
Posts: 196

Re: [carabiner96] Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Totally open to your idea of better and where do you think the Exposure II fits in the echelon? Is it an 8 out of 10, a 9?


carabiner96


Oct 17, 2009, 3:29 AM
Post #17 of 50 (17079 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610

Re: [unrest] Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It is a good jacket, but it is a little archaic. I don't think it's changed in 15 years. A jacket without a liner will pack smaller, last longer...the material of the exposure is nice and durable, but it's also heavy.

Mt Hardwear has a very unique fit, so if you like the exposure I might check out their 2.5 gtx jacket or the Berylium, i believe it is. I have the 2.5 for three years now, and other than a poor fit for me its held up beautifully to ski, ice, and the colder three seasons as a rain coat. Definitely a little warm for summer, though. Pit zips are, to me, a must.


tomtom


Oct 17, 2009, 3:39 AM
Post #18 of 50 (17077 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 9, 2004
Posts: 366

Re: [james481] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

james481 wrote:
Of course, like anything, the "best" is a pretty subjective thing, but I would say the "best" technical shell should:

1) Be made of eVent
2) Have heavy enough face and backing fabrics for withstanding abuse
3) Be constructed with extreme attention to detail and care (the best waterproof membrane doesn't help if the seams leak)
4) Be designed for easy use with a backpack and harness

Rab Latok Alpine jacket

http://www.campsaver.com/...001&MatrixType=1




clc


Oct 17, 2009, 4:35 AM
Post #19 of 50 (17063 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 495

Re: [tomtom] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

get a jacket that people wear to work out doors everyday. Resource workers don't wear gor-tex or simular shit. There wear helly hanson, or Zepheron jacket Not cool looking but a jacket will last 10 years. ($60)


unrest


Oct 17, 2009, 5:41 AM
Post #20 of 50 (17051 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2009
Posts: 196

Re: [clc] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The passion killer for me:

Google: Helly Hansen Rain Jacket
Result: REI
Page: "Men's Waterproof Jackets and Pants" -> "Non-Breathable Rainware"

I'm normally a person that freezes their butt off. Cold all the farking time. Until I lift a finger. Once I start doing something sweat just pours. Even if it's 30 out, even if it's 0 out. I have to have something that let's sweat out. Major must!

Otherwise I was ready to click "Add to Cart" and pocket $140 in left-over cash.


hafilax


Oct 17, 2009, 6:00 AM
Post #21 of 50 (17049 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In your OP you declared water proof, PROOF. Water proof=not breatheable

eVent sounds like the right option for you. What about the Wild Things Alpinist jacket?


unrest


Oct 17, 2009, 6:02 AM
Post #22 of 50 (17048 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2009
Posts: 196

Re: [hafilax] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hafilax wrote:
In your OP you declared water proof, PROOF. Water proof=not breatheable

eVent sounds like the right option for you. What about the Wild Things Alpinist jacket?

My forth - mark which has always been there says "breathable" now I kind of thunk that means I want something breathable. I've been known to be wrong though.Sly


hafilax


Oct 17, 2009, 6:15 AM
Post #23 of 50 (17044 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You can't have water proof and breatheable. You stressed water proof many times called it a must and put it in the title. Breatheable was a 'bonus'.

Anyway, you can't have both and have to compromise on how breatheable you want and how waterproof you want. Softshell breathes well and rubber is water proof, now what do you really want?


asiaclimber


Oct 17, 2009, 10:01 AM
Post #24 of 50 (17029 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 21, 2007
Posts: 214

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

check out Backcountry.com stuff. they make a line of really good soft shells that are next to water proof and some event shells that are next to bullet proof.


sungam


Oct 17, 2009, 11:26 AM
Post #25 of 50 (17022 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [dynosore] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dynosore wrote:
Helly Hansen. I've had over a dozen breathable rain shells and they make the best, period. I do an annual hiking, climbing, and halibut fishing pilgrimage to Alaska every summer, so I put my gear to the test. Better than Arcteryx, Patagonia, etc. They nail all the small details, and their fabric is as breathable as e-vent.
Helly Hanson = fashion, in my opinion. But what companies don't these days?


mikebee


Oct 17, 2009, 12:43 PM
Post #26 of 50 (8413 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 16, 2006
Posts: 190

Re: [hafilax] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
You can't have water proof and breatheable. You stressed water proof many times called it a must and put it in the title. Breatheable was a 'bonus'.

Does this mean that you don't believe Gore-Tex is waterproof? It's not designed to be submerged, but the fabric doesn't leak even in the worst weather I've been in. How much more "waterproof" do you need?


sungam


Oct 17, 2009, 1:33 PM
Post #27 of 50 (8412 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [mikebee] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mikebee wrote:
In reply to:
You can't have water proof and breatheable. You stressed water proof many times called it a must and put it in the title. Breatheable was a 'bonus'.

Does this mean that you don't believe Gore-Tex is waterproof? It's not designed to be submerged, but the fabric doesn't leak even in the worst weather I've been in. How much more "waterproof" do you need?
I don't think he knows the difference between vapor and liquid. Although in very high winds water can be pushed through gore-tex.


ncrockclimber


Oct 17, 2009, 2:05 PM
Post #28 of 50 (8410 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2006
Posts: 286

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I just picked up the REI Taku and have been very impressed. I cannot speak to the long term durability, but it looks to be built well enough to last a while. As far as waterproof and breathable, I can tell you that it is awesome. Also, they are on sale for $150. I have had some Patagonia products in the past. Although expensive, they last forever and are great products.

I do not agree with the comments about Helly Hansen. I had a HH ski jacket years ago and was not impressed at all. YMMV, but I would not buy one.


btg


Oct 17, 2009, 2:58 PM
Post #29 of 50 (8404 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 16, 2008
Posts: 31

Re: [ncrockclimber] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Anything from Rab will kick ass and then keep on breathing. I've had their Super Dru for almost three years and it is fantastic in breathability and durability, but it is on the light side for a burly mountain jacket ~14oz. And as with all uber breathable jkcts you need to wash them and reapply DWR every so often.


hafilax


Oct 17, 2009, 5:11 PM
Post #30 of 50 (8392 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [mikebee] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mikebee wrote:
In reply to:
You can't have water proof and breatheable. You stressed water proof many times called it a must and put it in the title. Breatheable was a 'bonus'.

Does this mean that you don't believe Gore-Tex is waterproof? It's not designed to be submerged, but the fabric doesn't leak even in the worst weather I've been in. How much more "waterproof" do you need?
No, I don't think it's breatheable enough. It's plenty water proof. Anything beyond sitting still and I get pretty wet in Goretex from sweat. If the DWR isn't working and the nylon wets out, the breatheability gets even worse.

They try to compensate with all kinds of vents that are annoying and let blowing snow in. I much prefer soft shell for 90% of conditions and I live in the PNW.


dynosore


Oct 17, 2009, 7:23 PM
Post #31 of 50 (8385 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [sungam] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:
dynosore wrote:
Helly Hansen. I've had over a dozen breathable rain shells and they make the best, period. I do an annual hiking, climbing, and halibut fishing pilgrimage to Alaska every summer, so I put my gear to the test. Better than Arcteryx, Patagonia, etc. They nail all the small details, and their fabric is as breathable as e-vent.
Helly Hanson = fashion, in my opinion. But what companies don't these days?

Huh, not around here. No one's heard of it. They tend to make functional jackets vs. eye catching designs. Regardless, they've kept me dry where I know others would have failed.


dynosore


Oct 17, 2009, 7:26 PM
Post #32 of 50 (8383 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

unrest wrote:
The passion killer for me:

Google: Helly Hansen Rain Jacket
Result: REI
Page: "Men's Waterproof Jackets and Pants" -> "Non-Breathable Rainware"

I'm normally a person that freezes their butt off. Cold all the farking time. Until I lift a finger. Once I start doing something sweat just pours. Even if it's 30 out, even if it's 0 out. I have to have something that let's sweat out. Major must!

Otherwise I was ready to click "Add to Cart" and pocket $140 in left-over cash.

They make plenty of breathable gear, if you can find some you won't be sorry. I probably sound like a sales rep, but I have a few pieces of gear I am an absolute believer in, and HH jackets are one of them. I have more camping & hiking gear than an REI store, so I speak from experience.


dynosore


Oct 17, 2009, 7:28 PM
Post #33 of 50 (8381 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [ncrockclimber] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ncrockclimber wrote:
I just picked up the REI Taku and have been very impressed. I cannot speak to the long term durability, but it looks to be built well enough to last a while. As far as waterproof and breathable, I can tell you that it is awesome. Also, they are on sale for $150. I have had some Patagonia products in the past. Although expensive, they last forever and are great products.

I do not agree with the comments about Helly Hansen. I had a HH ski jacket years ago and was not impressed at all. YMMV, but I would not buy one.

I don't know about their ski jackets, but their rain gear is top notch. The OP is looking for a waterproof shell.


unrest


Oct 25, 2009, 2:23 AM
Post #34 of 50 (8320 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2009
Posts: 196

REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So I went with the REI Shuksan ($299) and I have to say it's pretty freaking unreal. The eVent fabric is pretty danged awesome. The day started wet as you can get except for being submerged it was also cold and windy. So I layered my merino wool base layer, primaloft for warmth, and still needed my Schoeller Cloudveil Rayzar as it was plain cold. On top of that I had the Shuksan and it was brilliant. Then we started moving and moving fast. I stashed the Primaloft and the Cloudveil and it was time to see just how good the eVent was. With only it and the merino wool I was intrigued to see how things would progress. It was freaky. I sweat heavy, I mean I'll soak #edit# cotten cotton #edit# through completely in an hour of steady exertion and this was steady. It was great. Then the rain passed and the wind kicked up along with the sun. I dropped the wool and just had the Shuksan on. It was brilliant.

I'm very impressed. I started out 2 weeks ago with the Mountain Hardware piece I asked about and it was really disappointing. It just isn't on par at all with eVent. The eVent is super light and will pack to the size of a softball, it layers brilliantly and the wind/rain proof with welded seems is freaky.

+1 for eVent. Get it! Love it! It might just save your life.


(This post was edited by unrest on Oct 25, 2009, 2:25 AM)


Wunderkind


Oct 25, 2009, 3:07 PM
Post #35 of 50 (8299 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 7, 2008
Posts: 120

Re: [james481] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I agree, and I think you should check out the eVent shell coming out this winter from Stoic. Major upgrade over last year's model, which was already a pretty well thought out piece:

http://stoicgear.com/

it has all your required features and will be had for a bit less coin than the Rab.


newriverE


Oct 25, 2009, 9:30 PM
Post #36 of 50 (8276 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 6, 2009
Posts: 36

Re: [unrest] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If it ever starts to disapoint look at the Mountain hardwear Carnic jacket. It is their "terra shell" coat, which is in my opinion unbeatable. It is as waterproof as the Goretex pro shell and more breathable (MVTR of 40,000). It's essentially a perfect jacket, but a little more expensive at $350.
I'm glad you like your jacket, but if it fails you, you can always return it...


unrest


Oct 26, 2009, 1:02 AM
Post #37 of 50 (8258 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2009
Posts: 196

Re: [newriverE] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

newriverE wrote:
but if it fails you, you can always return it...

Yup. I love r policies like REI and Sierra Trading Post.


crazyscuba


Oct 27, 2009, 4:55 PM
Post #38 of 50 (8216 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 5, 2003
Posts: 173

Re: [newriverE] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So the deal with eVent is that they take an extra protection layer away from the membrane to give it added breathability. The upside is obvious in that you get added breathability.

The downside, which no one really knows about, is that the layer they take out protects the material from skin oils. It's something that Gore and the rest of the manufacturers refuse to take out.

With eVent you get great initial breathability but that drops significantly with more use, while the rest of the waterproof materials keep the same breathability throughout their lifespan.

I personally own and use the Mountain Hardwear Terra Shell, now the Carnic Jacket, and it's close to perfect. Light at 10 ounces, the most breathable jacket that hardwear makes and fairly durable. As a plus it's light enough to be used in humid summer conditions but also still great as an alpine shell in the winter.

Just my thoughts.


rock_fencer


Oct 27, 2009, 5:14 PM
Post #39 of 50 (8207 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752

Re: [crazyscuba] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

according to eVent materials i have read about, including a recent article in Chemical and Engineering News, the reason eVent can get rid of the inner protective layer is that their PTFE membrane oleophobic while most PTFE are oleophillic.

so hence lighter, more breathable, time in the field will tell which is better but my bets are on eVent right now


crazyscuba


Oct 27, 2009, 5:28 PM
Post #40 of 50 (8200 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 5, 2003
Posts: 173

Re: [rock_fencer] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm gonna place my bets on Hardwear, Arc'Teryx, Patagonia, Marmot and TNF since all of them have done their own long term tests and wanted to stick to what they've been doing.

Note that everyone using eVent currently is fairly small and is looking for a way to break into an over saturated market.

(This post was edited by crazyscuba on Oct 27, 2009, 5:28 PM)


sungam


Oct 27, 2009, 5:46 PM
Post #41 of 50 (8190 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [rock_fencer] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rock_fencer wrote:
according to eVent materials i have read about, including a recent article in Chemical and Engineering News, the reason eVent can get rid of the inner protective layer is that their PTFE membrane oleophobic while most PTFE are oleophillic.

so hence lighter, more breathable, time in the field will tell which is better but my bets are on eVent right now
Time in the field has shown - you'll want to wash your event fabric in nikwax tech wash then reproof if with nixwax every once in a while to keep the breathability up.


hafilax


Oct 27, 2009, 6:04 PM
Post #42 of 50 (8185 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [sungam] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:
rock_fencer wrote:
according to eVent materials i have read about, including a recent article in Chemical and Engineering News, the reason eVent can get rid of the inner protective layer is that their PTFE membrane oleophobic while most PTFE are oleophillic.

so hence lighter, more breathable, time in the field will tell which is better but my bets are on eVent right now
Time in the field has shown - you'll want to wash your event fabric in nikwax tech wash then reproof if with nixwax every once in a while to keep the breathability up.
Nikwax sucks. Revivex or Grainger's.


sungam


Oct 27, 2009, 6:06 PM
Post #43 of 50 (8182 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [hafilax] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hafilax wrote:
sungam wrote:
rock_fencer wrote:
according to eVent materials i have read about, including a recent article in Chemical and Engineering News, the reason eVent can get rid of the inner protective layer is that their PTFE membrane oleophobic while most PTFE are oleophillic.

so hence lighter, more breathable, time in the field will tell which is better but my bets are on eVent right now
Time in the field has shown - you'll want to wash your event fabric in nikwax tech wash then reproof if with nixwax every once in a while to keep the breathability up.
Nikwax sucks. Revivex or Grainger's.
Meh, I've never noticed a different between them. I'll take your word for it, though.


rock_fencer


Oct 27, 2009, 6:23 PM
Post #44 of 50 (8172 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752

Re: [crazyscuba] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i wouldnt bet on gear manufacturers coming around so quickly as they probably have excess material on hand and contracts to fullfill. Ive never used eVent but my Gore-Tex XCR jacket sucks when it comes to keeping me dry. However, Integral Designs makes a very highly reviewed eVent bivy sack for example. I hear Gore Pro is on par with eVent as well.

Chemically speaking eVent is superior in its production process. Not revolutionary and hardly 100% effective. Oils and fats will always be attracted to long hydrocarbon based polymer chains. Flourine can only do so much to reduce this effect.


sspssp


Oct 27, 2009, 6:45 PM
Post #45 of 50 (8163 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731

Re: [crazyscuba] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

crazyscuba wrote:
I'm gonna place my bets on Hardwear, Arc'Teryx, Patagonia, Marmot and TNF since all of them have done their own long term tests and wanted to stick to what they've been doing.

Note that everyone using eVent currently is fairly small and is looking for a way to break into an over saturated market.

So somebody was telling me that Gortex essentailly won't sell to product lines that carry event. So the big producers (who feel they have to have Gortex for marketing reasons) don't carry event and only the little guys carry event (but not Gortex).

Any truth to this or just a case of propaganda/urban myth?


(This post was edited by sspssp on Oct 27, 2009, 6:45 PM)


unrest


Oct 27, 2009, 7:03 PM
Post #46 of 50 (8156 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 24, 2009
Posts: 196

Re: [sspssp] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sspssp wrote:
So somebody was telling me that Gortex essentailly won't sell to product lines that carry event. So the big producers (who feel they have to have Gortex for marketing reasons) don't carry event and only the little guys carry event (but not Gortex).

Any truth to this or just a case of propaganda/urban myth?

That is straight dope there. I have a great relationship with REI and my local gear shop and both have confirmed. The problem for Gore is they need REI but REI does not need them. REI will and does carry both eVent and Gore. The small shop cannot carry eVent because of the Gore threat.

To me it says that Gore is afraid of something. What I have no clue.

As to fats and oils... My eVent shell would bug the shit out of me on skin. Makes no sense at all. I'd pull my soft-shell out and stash the eVent if I needed a single layer barrier. If it was incredibly wet and pouring I'd wear a merrino base layer (long sleeve) or some other nifty base layer between myself and the eVent and get it done.

As for taking care of eVent and reconditioning it over time that doesn't bother me at all. My mountain bike needs a tune up. My ski edges need tuned. My cams and stoppers need checked and replaced. I think gear comes in two categories. Lower performing low maintenance gear. You get less out but you have to put less in or give up certain features. Then there is higher performing high maintenance gear. It really does the trick but will need tuned and cared for along the way. I'd prefer leading edge that needed maintained any day over the other. I seasonally inspect all my gear. So the eVent is already made for habits I already have.


(This post was edited by unrest on Oct 27, 2009, 7:04 PM)


sungam


Oct 27, 2009, 7:06 PM
Post #47 of 50 (8152 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [sspssp] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sspssp wrote:
crazyscuba wrote:
I'm gonna place my bets on Hardwear, Arc'Teryx, Patagonia, Marmot and TNF since all of them have done their own long term tests and wanted to stick to what they've been doing.

Note that everyone using eVent currently is fairly small and is looking for a way to break into an over saturated market.

So somebody was telling me that Gortex essentailly won't sell to product lines that carry event. So the big producers (who feel they have to have Gortex for marketing reasons) don't carry event and only the little guys carry event (but not Gortex).

Any truth to this or just a case of propaganda/urban myth?
Huh, well I can't seem to find a company that uses both.


(This post was edited by sungam on Oct 27, 2009, 7:15 PM)


karmiclimber


Oct 27, 2009, 7:24 PM
Post #48 of 50 (8147 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2004
Posts: 1058

Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Anything Arc Teryx. I've had my baby for 9 years and its still going strong.


crazyscuba


Oct 29, 2009, 6:34 PM
Post #49 of 50 (8104 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 5, 2003
Posts: 173

Re: [sungam] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Nobody does both. They'll pick whichever they think works best and go with that. All of these companies have done their research and have picked what they thought was the best option.

Each one has it's upsides but in the end, it's really just a jacket.


rock_fencer


Oct 29, 2009, 6:44 PM
Post #50 of 50 (8101 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752

Re: [crazyscuba] REI Shuksan... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

the coolest inovation ive found is a schoeller fabric that is impregnated with parafin such that the pore sizes change with temperature i.e. warmer = larger pore size. They determined it didnt react fast enough for use in the outdoors though. A step in the right direction.


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook