In my opinion, God I really hate your posts.

On a serious note, that boulder problem appeared to be longer than most sport routes. Why not give it a route rating?

Because it was a boulder problem. Bouldering and routes have somehow changed their definition online. It's turned into "if it's longer and pumpy it's a route, if it's really short it's a boulder problem" - e.g. Wheel of life + sleepy rave are routes and Akira is a boulder problem.
Route = climbed with gear + rope
Boulder = you boulder it.
Knwameen?

I didn't say it was not a boulder problem my dearest friend, but in my humblest opinion, boulder grades and route grades describe different things. To me it seems a really long boulder problem like that could be more accurately described by a route grade. I realize I am opening a can of worms here because by that logic slabs should be graded on a different scale than overhangs. Maybe they should, but that would probably make life very confusing.

YORE RONG! YORE RONG AND YOU DESERVE TO DIE!

linky (worth watching! )

Because it was a boulder problem. Bouldering and routes have somehow changed their definition online. It's turned into "if it's longer and pumpy it's a route, if it's really short it's a boulder problem" - e.g. Wheel of life + sleepy rave are routes and Akira is a boulder problem.
Route = climbed with gear + rope
Boulder = you boulder it
Knwameen?

Because it was a boulder problem. Bouldering and routes have somehow changed their definition online. It's turned into "if it's longer and pumpy it's a route, if it's really short it's a boulder problem" - e.g. Wheel of life + sleepy rave are routes and Akira is a boulder problem.
Route = climbed with gear + rope
Boulder = you boulder it.
Knwameen?

gear doesnt define it being a route. what about people soloing?

edit: on a side note I find it hilarious that I got 5 stars for saying "you're wrong and you deserve to die" but one star for saying you use gear on routes and mats on problems.

Of course both of these are arbitrary labels which don't effect the actual rock at all so it really doesn't matter what they're called, I'm just portraying what seems to be the generally accepted "definitions" by those waste time pondering such things.

3) the guy is smooth - he was flying through those moves = definition of dialed

In my opinion, God I really hate your posts.

i) affect

ii) It's arbitrary if roped or unroped is the only factor under consideration; however, I think you are touching on the real issue here, which is that it's horribly unimportant. Everything on my 8a card is a lie anyway, so why should I let myself get bogged down in semantics?

...as well as being in agreement that I don't rite gud.

Odd, normally I wouldn't point such things out, but I guess today is just one of those days... one of those days in which I spent the last twenty minutes at my desk contemplating how to make my stapler into a more effective weapon. Hopefully I don't come up with anything particularly effective or we may just be looking at the start of the first grammar based genocide, y' know, just for something to do.

ii) It's arbitrary if roped or unroped is the only factor under consideration; however, I think you are touching on the real issue here, which is that it's horribly unimportant. Everything on my 8a card is a lie anyway, so why should I let myself get bogged down in semantics?

his chalk bag was draggin on the ground for half of the problem

a few observations:

1) 15+ bouldering pads count as gear (I know, I'm exaggerating for effect)
2) I've never seen the "slap the leg, stretch the palm" shake out technique - interesting.
3) the guy is smooth - he was flying through those moves = definition of dialed
4) totally wussed out at the end - he could have traversed into that v0 for another 15 feet, that would have added at least 2 more grades.

While there is no doubt in my mind that the climb is hard and the climber is strong, I can't avoid finding these kind of "boulder problems" a tad boring to watch, compared to other boulder problems or sport routes. To me, cruising a roof 2 feet over the ground, lacking vertical progression (like in sport climbs or highballs) or desperate moves (like many hard boulder problems) makes watching this route somehow uninteresting.
Probably is fun to climb, though. If you are strong enough, that is.

To do an 8a as the second pitch should be equally as difficult as to do an 8a on the ground or at the 10th pitch. Thus, the 10th pitch is, measured only by the moves, harder then the the second pitch which is just "move-wise" slightly harder than the first pitch.

Wow - I can't believe that didn't get a response. I guess I need to be less thoughtful and more trollish (eg., misspell a few words, make outlandish claims, ask stupid questions based on dubious knowledge, etc.).

I really wonder what he would do on a problem like the Mandala, or any other crimpy, overhanging highball somewhere outside of his backyard. .

I think that vid represents utter poetry and power in motion. Total random click on my part I rarely watch such things. Thanks for posting it.

DMT

Hopefully I don't come up with anything particularly effective or we may just be looking at the start of the first grammar based genocide, y' know, just for something to do.

He would probably do pretty well. He is obviously talented and strong.

Are women allowed in combat? *sharpens bayonet*

I believe that France has a separate rating system for unroped traverses that presumably factors in endurance. That would be useful for this sort of route.

Because it was a boulder problem. Bouldering and routes have somehow changed their definition online. It's turned into "if it's longer and pumpy it's a route, if it's really short it's a boulder problem" - e.g. Wheel of life + sleepy rave are routes and Akira is a boulder problem.
Route = climbed with gear + rope
Boulder = you boulder it.
Knwameen?