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non-climbing beefy anchors 101
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majid_sabet


May 27, 2010, 6:57 AM
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non-climbing beefy anchors 101
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no, we are not going to die






































(This post was edited by majid_sabet on May 30, 2010, 3:58 PM)


redlude97


May 27, 2010, 8:05 AM
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sport rappelling?


sbaclimber


May 27, 2010, 8:08 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
no, we are not going to die


...no, not all of you...just the guy in blueTongue


scottek67


May 27, 2010, 11:25 AM
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hey I have a question. what are the arrows for in those pics? I think they are a nice touch but I would like to know what they are pointing at.


bill413


May 27, 2010, 12:11 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
no, we are not going to die




Man, there are even redundant photographers. That's good!


swaghole


May 27, 2010, 1:24 PM
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Re: [redlude97] non-climbing beefy anchors 101 [In reply to]
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redlude97 wrote:
sport rappelling?
Must be - everyone is wearing gloves.


the_climber


May 27, 2010, 1:38 PM
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Re: [swaghole] non-climbing beefy anchors 101 [In reply to]
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Anyone else think that some of those pics could be a great tutorial on how to wedge/lift a boulder with cams?


trenchdigger


May 27, 2010, 2:17 PM
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Which should probably be posted in a non-climbing forum so they can be torn apart there.


swaghole


May 27, 2010, 2:30 PM
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the_climber wrote:
Anyone else think that some of those pics could be a great tutorial on how to wedge/lift a boulder with cams?

This one for sure. I also see some tri-axial retainer-wall crossloading issues.




acorneau


May 27, 2010, 3:26 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:



any question?

Yeah.

It's hard to tell from the picture, but what kind of Franken-knot are you using in the red webbing at the big locker?

Looks like it could be a clove hitch or maybe a messed up bowline.


majid_sabet


May 27, 2010, 4:15 PM
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the_climber wrote:
Anyone else think that some of those pics could be a great tutorial on how to wedge/lift a boulder with cams?

Actually, I have seen cams lift of boulder with heavy load once so yes, you do have good point


majid_sabet


May 27, 2010, 4:19 PM
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acorneau wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

[IMG]http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/5252/screenhunter05may192305.jpg[/IMG]

any question?

Yeah.

It's hard to tell from the picture, but what kind of Franken-knot are you using in the red webbing at the big locker?

Looks like it could be a clove hitch or maybe a messed up bowline.

sometimes they use an extra loop to shorten the distance between the legs if one is longer than the other one if that is knot what you referring on the biner closer to protection


acorneau


May 27, 2010, 5:07 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
sometimes they use an extra loop to shorten the distance between the legs if one is longer than the other one if that is knot what you referring on the biner closer to protection


No, I'm talking about the master point of the red webbing. Some sort of Munter/clove/bowline with an extra wrap in there.


majid_sabet


May 27, 2010, 5:41 PM
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acorneau wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
sometimes they use an extra loop to shorten the distance between the legs if one is longer than the other one if that is knot what you referring on the biner closer to protection


No, I'm talking about the master point of the red webbing. Some sort of Munter/clove/bowline with an extra wrap in there.

should be a fat fig 8 with multiple cord going thru it where normally clove H is not allowed anywhere.


rangerrob


May 27, 2010, 7:48 PM
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Was that photographer wearing blue leggings with hiking boots and a red shell jacket? You think he bought those leggings fromn the womens department at JC Penney? Or maybe from something more trendy, like H&M.


Arrogant_Bastard


May 28, 2010, 6:25 AM
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Where's the problem exactly? One of the anchors doesn't perfectly mirror one of the reference figures of a SRENE anchor in a John Long book? Oh noes!


Guran


May 28, 2010, 8:22 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
no, we are not going to die

[IMG]http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/5252/screenhunter05may192305.jpg[/IMG]

Yes you are! Metal on metal! Wink

In reply to:
[IMG]http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7968/screenhunter04may192304.jpg[/IMG]
Maybe it's a camera-angle thing, but isn't that leftmost pice at a hopeless angle? OK, it might contribute if the boulder to the right blows, but anyway...
In reply to:


gunkiemike


May 28, 2010, 9:02 PM
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Just one question - did they build better anchors AFTER the anchors training? Cuz I see a bunch of cams-in-choss, single failure points, and non-distributed load.


Bolter


May 28, 2010, 10:39 PM
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Oh jeeeeez.

A whole bunch of choss, ropes, webbing, cams, nuts, people =

YOU"RE GOING TO DIE!!!!!!!!!!

A whole bunch of nOObs here criticizing other nOObs = sweet.


bill413


May 29, 2010, 12:46 AM
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Bolter wrote:
Oh jeeeeez.

A whole bunch of choss, ropes, webbing, cams, nuts, people =

YOU"RE GOING TO DIE!!!!!!!!!!

A whole bunch of nOObs here criticizing other nOObs = sweet.

Welcome. Is this your first visit to RC.com?


rangerrob


May 29, 2010, 11:09 AM
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Re: [bill413] non-climbing beefy anchors 101 [In reply to]
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Whenever someone uses the word noob, spells it with two capital O's.....they are a wanker and probably a newbie themselves


sherpa79


May 29, 2010, 3:12 PM
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How many different ways can you say clusterf**k?

Assuming that this is "rescue" training, since it's a non-climbing anchor thread and the overall air of condescention, you guys can please stay away from me. Pick up your radio and call some climbers to build some "climbing anchors" to come get me.
How long was that sloping tyro you tensioned off that little boulder? And what makes you think that cobble wall won't just fall apart IF the boulder decides it wants to lever? Depending on the type of rock I think that thing will weigh somewhere between half a ton and a ton. Probably closer to half. Did you bolt it AND wrap it? I guess I'll stop the useless criticisms there as I'm not sure if you are serious....


sbaclimber


May 29, 2010, 6:37 PM
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sherpa79 wrote:
I guess I'll stop the useless criticisms there as I'm not sure if you are serious....
Too late...Tongue


sherpa79


May 30, 2010, 1:16 AM
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I know, but how can you resist?


(This post was edited by sherpa79 on May 30, 2010, 1:17 AM)


curt


May 30, 2010, 3:32 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
Whenever someone uses the word noob, spells it with two capital O's.....they are a wanker and probably a newbie themselves

Correct. You should use zeros--as in n00b.

Curt


majid_sabet


May 30, 2010, 4:17 AM
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sherpa79 wrote:
How many different ways can you say clusterf**k?

Assuming that this is "rescue" training, since it's a non-climbing anchor thread and the overall air of condescention, you guys can please stay away from me. Pick up your radio and call some climbers to build some "climbing anchors" to come get me.
How long was that sloping tyro you tensioned off that little boulder? And what makes you think that cobble wall won't just fall apart IF the boulder decides it wants to lever? Depending on the type of rock I think that thing will weigh somewhere between half a ton and a ton. Probably closer to half. Did you bolt it AND wrap it? I guess I'll stop the useless criticisms there as I'm not sure if you are serious....

and who do you call when those climbers of yours fuc*up on the walls?

more climbers?


curt


May 30, 2010, 4:22 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
sherpa79 wrote:
How many different ways can you say clusterf**k?

Assuming that this is "rescue" training, since it's a non-climbing anchor thread and the overall air of condescention, you guys can please stay away from me. Pick up your radio and call some climbers to build some "climbing anchors" to come get me.
How long was that sloping tyro you tensioned off that little boulder? And what makes you think that cobble wall won't just fall apart IF the boulder decides it wants to lever? Depending on the type of rock I think that thing will weigh somewhere between half a ton and a ton. Probably closer to half. Did you bolt it AND wrap it? I guess I'll stop the useless criticisms there as I'm not sure if you are serious....

and who do you call when...

Ghostbusters?

Curt


sherpa79


May 30, 2010, 3:14 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:

and who do you call when those climbers of yours fuc*up on the walls?

more climbers?

Whatever dude. You've got a rescue fetish, that's clear. You've got some theoretical knowledge, congratulations. What happens when YOU screw up as it seems you are bound to do? I think the honorable Dr. Peter Venkman said it best...

"Human sacrifice. Dogs and cats living together. Mass hysteria!"


majid_sabet


May 30, 2010, 3:54 PM
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sherpa79 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

and who do you call when those climbers of yours fuc*up on the walls?

more climbers?

Whatever dude. You've got a rescue fetish, that's clear. You've got some theoretical knowledge, congratulations. What happens when YOU screw up as it seems you are bound to do? I think the honorable Dr. Peter Venkman said it best...

"Human sacrifice. Dogs and cats living together. Mass hysteria!"

I do not even think that I know the theoretical knowledge but I am just wondering how you come up with your conclusions .


sherpa79


May 31, 2010, 12:46 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:

I do not even think that I know the theoretical knowledge but I am just wondering how you come up with your conclusions .

Well, then, that's a good place to start.
I come to my conclusions based on your anchors which don't really look that well thought out, even for the demonstration they seem to be for.


Arrogant_Bastard


May 31, 2010, 4:51 PM
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curt wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
Whenever someone uses the word noob, spells it with two capital O's.....they are a wanker and probably a newbie themselves

Correct. You should use zeros--as in n00b.

Curt

Quoted. For prosperity.


majid_sabet


May 31, 2010, 5:07 PM
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sherpa79 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

I do not even think that I know the theoretical knowledge but I am just wondering how you come up with your conclusions .

Well, then, that's a good place to start.
I come to my conclusions based on your anchors which don't really look that well thought out, even for the demonstration they seem to be for.

ok, that is reasonable answer so let's take a look at some of your anchor setup so we see the difference and may be we learn a few things.

and before i forget, i would appreciate if you critique/analyze each anchor (as shown ) and let me know what then cons/pros are (if any).


Partner j_ung


May 31, 2010, 5:37 PM
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The green and brown Tricams are going to fail.




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