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kifoa
Sep 29, 2010, 1:36 PM
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Is there anybody TR soloing only with two clove hitch on rope I searched the forum and found little information about it.I think compared with the yosemite two mini-traxion style that the clove method have some shortage as below: 1) There is one till two rope loop beside you when climing,maybe it prevent you moving and catch your leg when falling and you have to take the weight of the rope belowe clove hitch. 2) You have to unclip pre clove hitch ,tie a new,then clip in,most time only by one hand.even more complicated than leading. 3) The ff may be 0.5 and the compact force is 400KG when coming near the top.Some time you’ll fall 3 meters.the max value is the half compared with leading. Although clove hitch method have many shortage,it is worth to have a try..you must care for not falling and do some action by one hand.All these are useful training for leading. do you agreeof corse the cliff must have no rock sticking out. kifoa
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gmggg
Sep 29, 2010, 1:48 PM
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Where are you from?
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carabiner96
Sep 29, 2010, 2:31 PM
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malcolm777b
Sep 29, 2010, 3:05 PM
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kifoa wrote: Is there anybody TR soloing only with two clove hitch on rope I searched the forum and found little information about it.I think compared with the yosemite two mini-traxion style that the clove method have some shortage as below: 1) There is one till two rope loop beside you when climing,maybe it prevent you moving and catch your leg when falling and you have to take the weight of the rope belowe clove hitch. 2) You have to unclip pre clove hitch ,tie a new,then clip in,most time only by one hand.even more complicated than leading. 3) The ff may be 0.5 and the compact force is 400KG when coming near the top.Some time you’ll fall 3 meters.the max value is the half compared with leading. Although clove hitch method have many shortage,it is worth to have a try..you must care for not falling and do some action by one hand.All these are useful training for leading. do you agree of corse the cliff must have no rock sticking out. kifoa Is that what all that crap on your harness is for?
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dingus
Sep 29, 2010, 3:11 PM
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A few hundred rope lengths on this rig has me convinced the ~ $100 investment for the mini traxes was worth it. With the chest sling attachment keeping the upper trax in tension on the rope, the fall potential is nil. Your other points about cloves seem appropriate, pro and con. I guess it depends on what you are trying to accomplish... In my case I wanted to be able to set up a top-down rap rope on some crag and then yo-yo pitches repeatedly, like laps in the gym. I have 4 main criteria: 1. Safety - A. its got to work, duh. And as importantly B. I have to have faith that it will work. I got to 'A' fairly quickly, 'B' took more time. 2. I wanted a self-feeding mechanism. So long as the rope is weighted, this rig IS self-feeding. 3. Quick turn-around top and bottom - my mark is no longer than a minute to switch from climb to rap mode and back again. I employ a 3rd locker on my belay loop for this purpose - and use a grigri for rapping. 4. No rope shredding - I am not using my rig to try to advance my grades per se, for me its more like the climbing equivalent of jogging - training and just plain fun doing workout laps, etc. So I am not hucking off all the time, if I were I'm not sure I would use the exact same rig. Its a little 'teethy' for my taste. Now you'll probably die if you try any of this and my use is by no means an endorsement nor encouragement to you to try it. You are on your own in every respect, when you go soloing. DMT
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carabiner96
Sep 29, 2010, 3:19 PM
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dingus wrote: [IMG]http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad72/oldclymr2/080510%20Granite%20Carson%20Pass/DSC08437.jpg[/IMG] A few hundred rope lengths on this rig has me convinced the ~ $100 investment for the mini traxes was worth it. With the chest sling attachment keeping the upper trax in tension on the rope, the fall potential is nil. Your other points about cloves seem appropriate, pro and con. I guess it depends on what you are trying to accomplish... In my case I wanted to be able to set up a top-down rap rope on some crag and then yo-yo pitches repeatedly, like laps in the gym. I have 4 main criteria: 1. Safety - A. its got to work, duh. And as importantly B. I have to have faith that it will work. I got to 'A' fairly quickly, 'B' took more time. 2. I wanted a self-feeding mechanism. So long as the rope is weighted, this rig IS self-feeding. 3. Quick turn-around top and bottom - my mark is no longer than a minute to switch from climb to rap mode and back again. I employ a 3rd locker on my belay loop for this purpose - and use a grigri for rapping. 4. No rope shredding - I am not using my rig to try to advance my grades per se, for me its more like the climbing equivalent of jogging - training and just plain fun doing workout laps, etc. So I am not hucking off all the time, if I were I'm not sure I would use the exact same rig. Its a little 'teethy' for my taste. [IMG]http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad72/oldclymr2/080510%20Granite%20Carson%20Pass/DSC08435.jpg[/IMG] Now you'll probably die if you try any of this and my use is by no means an endorsement nor encouragement to you to try it. You are on your own in every respect, when you go soloing. DMT I enjoy seeing other folks' TR solo setups, thanks!
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gmggg
Sep 29, 2010, 4:01 PM
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+1 for the minitrax. If I'm not climbing a full rope's length then sometimes I'll tie the rope off at the middle and use a minitrax on one strand and a grigri on the other. This way I have a backed up minitrax and a no-setup rappel ready to go when I get to the top. You do have to pull rope through the grigri but it's pretty easy and not necessary to do so constantly as it's just your backup.
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MS1
Sep 29, 2010, 4:36 PM
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kifoa wrote: Is there anybody TR soloing only with two clove hitch on rope I searched the forum and found little information about it.I think compared with the yosemite two mini-traxion style that the clove method have some shortage as below: 1) There is one till two rope loop beside you when climing,maybe it prevent you moving and catch your leg when falling and you have to take the weight of the rope belowe clove hitch. 2) You have to unclip pre clove hitch ,tie a new,then clip in,most time only by one hand.even more complicated than leading. 3) The ff may be 0.5 and the compact force is 400KG when coming near the top.Some time you’ll fall 3 meters.the max value is the half compared with leading. Although clove hitch method have many shortage,it is worth to have a try..you must care for not falling and do some action by one hand.All these are useful training for leading. do you agree of corse the cliff must have no rock sticking out. kifoa You are like the Professor of Complicated Bullshit Ideas. If you are too cheap to buy a minitrax or put together another similar set-up, just pre-tie some butterfly knots in the rope and clip into them as you climb. Tying all those cloves one handed will be a huge pain, and you might end up mis-tying them at some point due to fatigue. Not coincidentally, that's probably also when you are most likely to test your system by falling on it. See the problem?
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markc
Sep 29, 2010, 6:19 PM
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MS1 wrote: You are like the Professor of Complicated Bullshit Ideas. If you are too cheap to buy a minitrax or put together another similar set-up, just pre-tie some butterfly knots in the rope and clip into them as you climb. Tying all those cloves one handed will be a huge pain, and you might end up mis-tying them at some point due to fatigue. Not coincidentally, that's probably also when you are most likely to test your system by falling on it. See the problem? A friend uses the butterfly knot system on occasion. He anchors the middle of his rope at the top. He clips the butterflies as he goes, leapfrogging two slings. He has the unknotted line for rappelling at any point. I've used a system similar to this climbing tech tip: http://www.climbing.com/...techtips/ttsport253/ I initially hung and took some falls low to the ground to get comfortable with the system, and don't have issues taking a fall on it at this point. It feels a bit fiddly at first, but it's better than staying at home.
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CliffDestructo
Sep 29, 2010, 9:22 PM
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Its probably cheaper, more fun and safer to just con/ bribe a friend or make a new friend through the promise of beers at the end of the day of laps
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justroberto
Sep 29, 2010, 9:47 PM
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MS1 wrote: You are like the Professor of Complicated Bullshit Ideas. I'm still laughing...
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sherpa79
Sep 29, 2010, 10:22 PM
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As far as the multiple minitrax go, why do you need two? I realize that this will grab reliably, but if you break the primary because you fall whats to keep the second one from failing as well? Why not some other combo? I'm not sure this is really a "redundant" system as far as all modes of failure are concerned. Though I'm always interested in other people's systems. It seems to me if all you are doing is TR soloing than paying for 2 minitraxions is somewhat unnecessary. Allthough outside of a hitch and pulley combo, you're probably likely to spend just as much money on another mechanical solution to the problem. The gri-gri solution isn't perfect (because of feeding), but much more reliable in terms of a backup in my opinion. Though a gri-gri isn't LESS expensive than a mini-trax. Not picking on you dingus, just trying to think through a system new to me. Thanks for sharing, expecially with pictures!
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qwert
Sep 30, 2010, 9:37 AM
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I dont have any idea what that clove hitch system is supposed to be, but i doubt its a good idea. So ... [obligatory]U R GUNNA DYE!!!111!eleven!!![/obligatory] If you want to go TR soloing, try something like Dingus system. Personally i use a petzl basic, and a prussik for backup (unfortunately i dont have a pic), a system thats completely self feeding. I dont know what dingus motivation for the backup system is, but mine is the fact that you can block the cam of an ascender rather easily, if something like a small rock falls into it (there have been accidents with that). Also i often have the biner in my ascender moving around, so that it gets crossloaded. So i like to have a second system, with a second biner. qwert
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dingus
Sep 30, 2010, 1:14 PM
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sherpa79 wrote: As far as the multiple minitrax go, why do you need two? I realize that this will grab reliably, but if you break the primary because you fall whats to keep the second one from failing as well? Why not some other combo? I'm not sure this is really a "redundant" system as far as all modes of failure are concerned. Though I'm always interested in other people's systems. It seems to me if all you are doing is TR soloing than paying for 2 minitraxions is somewhat unnecessary. Allthough outside of a hitch and pulley combo, you're probably likely to spend just as much money on another mechanical solution to the problem. The gri-gri solution isn't perfect (because of feeding), but much more reliable in terms of a backup in my opinion. Though a gri-gri isn't LESS expensive than a mini-trax. Not picking on you dingus, just trying to think through a system new to me. Thanks for sharing, expecially with pictures! Its to make my fuzzies get warm. The business part of a trax, the part that actually comes into contact with the rope, is roughly the size of a postage stamp. Mini trax units have been known to slip, Angry on this site experienced a 10 foot slide one day with his single trax failed to grasp the rope tightly. There are other failure modes too, such as the fact the housing around the pulley assembly is wobbly after a few uses and could conceivable be leveraged open and allow the rope to pop out. I could use a different 2nd device but I don't - because I have a 2nd trax. I 'tie them in' differently so the rope twist off method of dying mode is different for the two of them. That's the reason the top grigri is girthed, to keep those plates snug. Lastly I'm not trying to say the system I use (and copied from others) is superior. Its just the one I use. Cheers DMT
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iron106
Sep 30, 2010, 1:29 PM
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I am suprised nobody ever mentions using a Petzl Shunt (no teeth, it shows how to do it in the instructions, http://www.petzl.com/...HUNT_B03200-07-1.pdf) or the Trango Cinch (feeds better than the grigri).
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dingus
Sep 30, 2010, 1:33 PM
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iron106 wrote: I am suprised nobody ever mentions using a Petzl Shunt (no teeth, it shows how to do it in the instructions, http://www.petzl.com/...HUNT_B03200-07-1.pdf) or the Trango Cinch (feeds better than the grigri). So what's your experience with the Shunt? Got some pictures of your rig? DMT
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iron106
Sep 30, 2010, 1:41 PM
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dingus wrote: iron106 wrote: I am suprised nobody ever mentions using a Petzl Shunt (no teeth, it shows how to do it in the instructions, http://www.petzl.com/...HUNT_B03200-07-1.pdf) or the Trango Cinch (feeds better than the grigri). So what's your experience with the Shunt? Got some pictures of your rig? DMT I have not used it. I use a grigri and knots, ugh. It's just what I have. I was putting it out there because I am hopeing to hear from anyone who has used it. It seems to feed nice, just no overhangs or falling on it.
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dingus
Sep 30, 2010, 1:45 PM
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Cool. You make a good point about perhaps employing a different back up device, which is why I asked. Cheers DMT
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cruxstacean
Sep 30, 2010, 3:06 PM
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iron106 wrote: I am suprised nobody ever mentions using a Petzl Shunt (no teeth, it shows how to do it in the instructions, http://www.petzl.com/...HUNT_B03200-07-1.pdf) or the Trango Cinch (feeds better than the grigri). Just FYI, Trango doesn't recommend using the Cinch for top rope soloing... so, use at your own risk. Now that I think about it, Petzl doesn't approve of using the Grigri for TR solo either do they?
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iron106
Sep 30, 2010, 3:46 PM
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cruxstacean wrote: iron106 wrote: I am suprised nobody ever mentions using a Petzl Shunt (no teeth, it shows how to do it in the instructions, http://www.petzl.com/...HUNT_B03200-07-1.pdf) or the Trango Cinch (feeds better than the grigri). Just FYI, Trango doesn't recommend using the Cinch for top rope soloing... so, use at your own risk. Now that I think about it, Petzl doesn't approve of using the Grigri for TR solo either do they? No Petzl does not suggest that it works, just ""WARNING: any blockage or constraint of the device, or of the cam, negates the braking action on the rope: DANGER OF DEATH." " and "application is essential before use. This product must only be used by competent and responsible persons, or those placed under the direct and visual control of a competent and responsible person. Gaining an adequate apprenticeship in appropriate techniques and methods of protection is your own responsibility. You personally assume all risks and responsibilities for all damage, injury or death which may occur during or following incorrect use of our products in any manner whatsoever. If you are not able, or not in a position to assume this responsibility or to take this risk, do not use this equipment. You must have a rescue plan and the means to rapidly implement it in case of difficulties encountered while using this equipment." But I have something that works for me. Also the Grigri is a stronger device that the Cinch.
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gmggg
Sep 30, 2010, 4:19 PM
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dingus wrote: iron106 wrote: I am suprised nobody ever mentions using a Petzl Shunt (no teeth, it shows how to do it in the instructions, http://www.petzl.com/...HUNT_B03200-07-1.pdf) or the Trango Cinch (feeds better than the grigri). So what's your experience with the Shunt? Got some pictures of your rig? DMT I know people have, but supposedly it's pretty dangerous in higher force falls. It's a really small contact area and a lot of mechanical advantage. [/internet rumor]
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markc
Sep 30, 2010, 8:17 PM
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CliffDestructo wrote: Its probably cheaper, more fun and safer to just con/ bribe a friend or make a new friend through the promise of beers at the end of the day of laps I don't know if this is a general reply or specific to me. Many of my long-term partners have drifted from climbing, moved, or have young kids. New partners don't always stick, and climbing doesn't always take with people you train up. While I haven't done it much, the nice thing about solo TRing is that you're not dependent upon someone else's schedule. I see two major issues regarding safety. Folks with more experience may weigh in, as well. First off, the burden of safety checks is entirely on one person. Also, you may be the only one at the crag. It's important to communicate where you'll be and when you'll be back in case you're alone. That said, I'm using a pretty straightforward and redundant system. Regarding cost, I already owned everything I need to solo TR. I had a great time the first time I tried this. I had the crag to myself. I rigged and climbed what I wanted, rested and had a snack when I wanted, and got in a good deal of climbing in a short time. I enjoyed the solitude. If I run into people in the crag who I want to climb with, I can join them. If not, being alone won't ruin my day. edit - typo
(This post was edited by markc on Sep 30, 2010, 8:19 PM)
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dingus
Sep 30, 2010, 9:14 PM
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markc wrote: I see two major issues regarding safety. Folks with more experience may weigh in, as well. First off, the burden of safety checks is entirely on one person. Also, you may be the only one at the crag. It's important to communicate where you'll be and when you'll be back in case you're alone. That said, I'm using a pretty straightforward and redundant system. Yup. You have to be your own keeper, full time. And I typically only solo TR when I AM alone at a crag. I don't like to do it around other people even though I have. I also rarely tell anyone where exactly I am going to be nor when to expect me back. But that's just a quirk I have. Cheers DMT
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gunkiemike
Sep 30, 2010, 9:29 PM
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cruxstacean wrote: Now that I think about it, Petzl doesn't approve of using the Grigri for TR solo either do they? No, but they DO approve of the Basic ascender for this purpose. It's what I've used for nearly 10 years.
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hugepedro
Sep 30, 2010, 9:35 PM
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Here is what you do: #1) Get a personality, so that... #2) You can get a few friends (people, not cams), so that... #3) When you want to climb you just call 1 of them and say, "hey, let's go climbing!"
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stevebontes
Sep 30, 2010, 9:39 PM
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a shunt is sometimes used in industrial rope access as a backup attached tothe harness by a shock absorbing lanyard on the second rope as two ropes are always used and for accent the croll is used in conjuction with a chest harness for accending the rope the shunt is moved up by lifting it up to maximum lanyard lenght above ,the lanyard is as long as your reach so you can deactivate the shunt after a fall onto it ,however the shunt in this situation must never go below the waist to keep the fall factor low,,,this is a technique used by I.R.A.T.A members if i remember rightly many years ago when the shunt was new on the market petzl did have diagrams showing the shunt being used for top rope soloing ,,,and still do http://www.petzl.com/files/all/technical-notice/Sport/B03_SHUNT_B03200-07-1.pdf in my experience with the shunt in this method i found an older shunt on a new rope to move reasonable freely up a weighted rope ,,,but a new shunt on an older rope to be alot of friction ,,, i have heard stories of one concern ,the shunt uses friction and gets hot under a fall situation and with no bending like a decender it can slip when hot as the nylon rope melts it becomes a lubricant and it can continue to slide through the shunt which simply pinches the rope against the body of the shunt as a backup i have found it great below my reverso on rappel for single or double ropes ,,, there are all sorts of debates on what is best,,, the best thing is do your research when choosing a tool ,,,you don't buy a cement mixer to drill a hole do you read and research the manufactures limitations before you choose what you trust your life with,,, climb safe enjoy steve
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bertusgeert
Sep 30, 2010, 9:46 PM
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kifoa wrote: Is there anybody TR soloing only with two clove hitch on rope I searched the forum and found little information about it.I think compared with the yosemite two mini-traxion style that the clove method have some shortage as below: 1) There is one till two rope loop beside you when climing,maybe it prevent you moving and catch your leg when falling and you have to take the weight of the rope belowe clove hitch. 2) You have to unclip pre clove hitch ,tie a new,then clip in,most time only by one hand.even more complicated than leading. 3) The ff may be 0.5 and the compact force is 400KG when coming near the top.Some time you’ll fall 3 meters.the max value is the half compared with leading. Although clove hitch method have many shortage,it is worth to have a try..you must care for not falling and do some action by one hand.All these are useful training for leading. do you agree of corse the cliff must have no rock sticking out. kifoa You should go do that whole setup on this wall: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troll_Wall Have fun, don't die.
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sherpa79
Oct 1, 2010, 1:19 AM
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Shunts are ok for soloing. I've used one, but do not own one, so my experience is limited. I do however have a handfull of different ascenders so I typically opt for one of these in tandem with a knot as a backup. I use a micropulley to tend the hitch so the whole thing is self tending with a slightly weighted rope. If the pulley hitch combo gets stuck you just have to pull the tail. It's easier than pulling slack through a gri-gri for sure. Dingus- When I run a knot as backup I use a heat resistant cord in a configuration that's called and "eye to eye". Something I use at work in combo with the micro pulley. It occured to me that it might work quite well in tandem with a minitrax. Thus you would have a knot backing up the minitrax and all on the same biner and also self tending. Something to think about maybe. I don't have a minitrax, so this isn't an option for me. It did have me thinking about possibly soloing pitches longer than half a rope lenght though. This might be a good set up for this. I have used a knot as a backup above and atached to the body of a basic ascender. Basically the knot is attached to the biner that goes through the top holes and also goes to the chest harness. The basic tends the knot backup just like a pulley does. I've only used this system on a couple pitches, so it's not ironed out. But I think it shows promise for us folks who don't have a pulley/grab combo unit, but do have ascenders and cord etc. This doesn't protect you against the cam lever of the ascender severing the rope because I don't think there would be enough rope above the sever for the knot to grab with any certainty. But this is a very unlikely scenario of you set up your TR solo at all correctly. But I know it took me a while to accept the possibility of using toothed ascenders in a solo TR setup. The possibility quite scared me at first. If I have time I'll post some pictures of the couple options I use for TR solo... Oh, and as far as personality goes, climbing has never been about a popularity contest. I climb just as happily alone as I do with other people. Actually I find that climbing alone helps me seperate my ego from the climbing better. This can be a welcome respite from all those climbers full of "personality" shouting move by move beta at you from the ground. Or spraying about their latest project or how cool their prana beanie makes them look. Keep your personality bub...
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stevebontes
Oct 1, 2010, 8:21 AM
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have you tried a small pvc pipe on your rope create enough distance between your basic and backup knot? just an idea steve
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markc
Oct 1, 2010, 2:16 PM
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cruxstacean wrote: iron106 wrote: I am suprised nobody ever mentions using a Petzl Shunt (no teeth, it shows how to do it in the instructions, http://www.petzl.com/...HUNT_B03200-07-1.pdf) or the Trango Cinch (feeds better than the grigri). Just FYI, Trango doesn't recommend using the Cinch for top rope soloing... so, use at your own risk. Now that I think about it, Petzl doesn't approve of using the Grigri for TR solo either do they? Here's a link to what Malcolm Daly had to say: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1012551#1012551 The short version is, "if you do try it, AMFYOYO." It could be that some of us don't mention the locking-assist belay device we use due to Mal's clear position on the subject.
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yodadave
Oct 1, 2010, 2:31 PM
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hey qwert, how do you rig it so that your prussik is self feeding?? Do you just rig so that the basic pushes it up the line?
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qwert
Oct 1, 2010, 3:01 PM
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yodadave wrote: hey qwert, how do you rig it so that your prussik is self feeding?? Do you just rig so that the basic pushes it up the line? Yes. I have the prussik above the basic. It is indeed self feeding, since the top surface of the basic (and probably a few other ascenders) pushes the prussik quite good. It does add some friction however, so sometimes a bit of added weight on the rope at the bottom of the route is needed. Another bonus of the prussik is, that it probably avoids the number one causes for actually needing a backup, since it protects the entry of the ascenders cam quite good. qwert
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stevebontes
Oct 1, 2010, 3:04 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2010
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what does the AMFYOYO translate to?
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markc
Oct 1, 2010, 3:17 PM
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Adios mother fucker, you're on your own.
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stevebontes
Oct 1, 2010, 5:23 PM
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hahahahaha
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bearbreeder
Oct 1, 2010, 7:09 PM
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qwert wrote: Yes. I have the prussik above the basic. It is indeed self feeding, since the top surface of the basic (and probably a few other ascenders) pushes the prussik quite good. It does add some friction however, so sometimes a bit of added weight on the rope at the bottom of the route is needed. Another bonus of the prussik is, that it probably avoids the number one causes for actually needing a backup, since it protects the entry of the ascenders cam quite good. qwert i do the same ... klemheist on to of a micro ascender
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gunkiemike
Oct 1, 2010, 8:33 PM
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qwert wrote: yodadave wrote: hey qwert, how do you rig it so that your prussik is self feeding?? Do you just rig so that the basic pushes it up the line? Yes. I have the prussik above the basic. It is indeed self feeding, since the top surface of the basic (and probably a few other ascenders) pushes the prussik quite good. It does add some friction however, so sometimes a bit of added weight on the rope at the bottom of the route is needed. Another bonus of the prussik is, that it probably avoids the number one causes for actually needing a backup, since it protects the entry of the ascenders cam quite good. qwert I have to wonder if the prusik can grab the rope if - worst case here - the ascender shears (cuts) the rope. Not much one can do about that failure mode except be tied periodically to a second line.
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qwert
Oct 3, 2010, 8:27 AM
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gunkiemike wrote: qwert wrote: yodadave wrote: hey qwert, how do you rig it so that your prussik is self feeding?? Do you just rig so that the basic pushes it up the line? Yes. I have the prussik above the basic. It is indeed self feeding, since the top surface of the basic (and probably a few other ascenders) pushes the prussik quite good. It does add some friction however, so sometimes a bit of added weight on the rope at the bottom of the route is needed. Another bonus of the prussik is, that it probably avoids the number one causes for actually needing a backup, since it protects the entry of the ascenders cam quite good. qwert I have to wonder if the prusik can grab the rope if - worst case here - the ascender shears (cuts) the rope. Not much one can do about that failure mode except be tied periodically to a second line. I guess in this situation my backup wont be worth a dime, but i dont think that this is a likely thing to happen. How would an ascender completely cut a rope? Maybe the sheath (have heard of that happening, on ropes that should have been thrown away), but the full rope - dont think thats realistic. qwert
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sherpa79
Oct 3, 2010, 2:59 PM
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I also find that the basic tends the hitch without any additional stuff and helps to protect things from falling down into the cam. And as far as severing the rope with an ascender, it can happen of course, but on TR solo I don't consider it a risk that is likely enough to address, provided your system is actually functioning as it should. I have soloed with just a hitch and a micro-pulley as a tender on a single line. A hitch that will reliably grab the rope in a fall may create a little more friction that might require the occassional tend or a slight weight on the bottom. With a knot you don't really have to worry about severing the rope. I also use an 8 mil heat resistant cord for my hitch, so concerns about melting the hitch are also significanly lower. However, the knot can get a little welded if you fall with a little slack in your system. In order to get it functioning well again it's nice to have either a really easy route, or you can keep the basic on a shoulder runner to slap above the knot to hang from for a minute if the knot requires both hands to get running again.
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