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enigma
Apr 19, 2011, 4:31 PM
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Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands ,
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caughtinside
Apr 19, 2011, 9:00 PM
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I Onflashed a notorious secret route known as either The $20 Hooker or The Warmup. I then downgraded it from 12a to .11d. It is at a super dooper secret crag so I cannot reveal location or post photos.
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dbogardus
Apr 19, 2011, 11:30 PM
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5.7b
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rangerrob
Apr 20, 2011, 1:37 AM
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Onflashed?
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caughtinside
Apr 20, 2011, 1:49 AM
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Yes.
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esander4
Apr 20, 2011, 2:30 AM
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caughtinside wrote: I Onflashed a notorious secret route known as either The $20 Hooker or The Warmup. I then downgraded it from 12a to .11d. It is at a super dooper secret crag so I cannot reveal location or post photos. I red-headed (otherwise known as a "ginger-kid") a 5.3c that was all overhanging on microcrimpers overtop of a swamp with hungry alligators underneath. They won't eat you, they'll just give you monster wedgies. The crux of the route was trying to dodge Steve Irwin as he tries to catch you with his butterfly net (all the while speaking into the camera "oooohhhh here we have a climber, he looks dangerous...let's get a closer look")
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eric_k
Apr 25, 2011, 5:14 PM
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11c, in WA
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chossmonkey
Apr 25, 2011, 10:52 PM
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enigma wrote: Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands , That is totally my idea! Thief!!!!!
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rtwilli4
Apr 26, 2011, 10:29 AM
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Yea, I've onflashed a lot of routes as well. It's generally pretty hard to "on-sight" a sport route, what with all of the chalk and bolts. Every hard sport route I've onflashed felt easy in the grade. EVERY ONE! The ones I fell off of are the ones with legit grades. 7a+ a few times on two separate continents. All soft. Some of my proudest sport onsights were at Mill Creek near Moab. Mid 11 techy stuff, no chalk, spaced out bolts. LOVE that place!
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sungam
Apr 26, 2011, 11:27 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote: Yea, I've onflashed a lot of routes as well. It's generally pretty hard to "on-sight" a sport route, what with all of the chalk and bolts. Every hard sport route I've onflashed felt easy in the grade. EVERY ONE! The ones I fell off of are the ones with legit grades. 7a+ a few times on two separate continents. All soft. Some of my proudest sport onsights were at Mill Creek near Moab. Mid 11 techy stuff, no chalk, spaced out bolts. LOVE that place! That place is siiiiiiick.
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camhead
Apr 26, 2011, 11:54 AM
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sungam wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Yea, I've onflashed a lot of routes as well. It's generally pretty hard to "on-sight" a sport route, what with all of the chalk and bolts. Every hard sport route I've onflashed felt easy in the grade. EVERY ONE! The ones I fell off of are the ones with legit grades. 7a+ a few times on two separate continents. All soft. Some of my proudest sport onsights were at Mill Creek near Moab. Mid 11 techy stuff, no chalk, spaced out bolts. LOVE that place! That place is siiiiiiick. yeah, Mill Creek is awesome. Hardest spurt onsight (no beta, placing draws, blablabla) was 12b. Hardest flash was 12c.
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kachoong
Apr 26, 2011, 2:58 PM
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camhead wrote: sungam wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Yea, I've onflashed a lot of routes as well. It's generally pretty hard to "on-sight" a sport route, what with all of the chalk and bolts. Every hard sport route I've onflashed felt easy in the grade. EVERY ONE! The ones I fell off of are the ones with legit grades. 7a+ a few times on two separate continents. All soft. Some of my proudest sport onsights were at Mill Creek near Moab. Mid 11 techy stuff, no chalk, spaced out bolts. LOVE that place! That place is siiiiiiick. yeah, Mill Creek is awesome. Hardest spurt onsight (no beta, placing draws, blablabla) was 12b. Hardest flash was 12c.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 26, 2011, 3:06 PM
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10c at Rumney (so really, that's a 'Gunks 5.8+)
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dagibbs
Apr 26, 2011, 6:59 PM
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Highest rating? The Great Baldini, 5.10b, EPC. But, ratings there seemed kind of soft to me. Hardest climb? That's harder to say, maybe La Cha-cha des Felins, 5.9, at Montagne D'Argent (Quebec) when it was wet. Hardest for me head? Third ever sport lead, up a 5.6 on the Eardley Escarpment - which got very thin between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. (Local ratings under the 5.10+ sport range tend to be... old school.)
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ENARE
Apr 27, 2011, 5:31 PM
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On Flashed 5.10a last night; but generally 5.9 on-sights are more common for me.
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ceebo
May 6, 2011, 12:49 PM
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''hi hi i can climb 9a projects and on sight 8a/b''.. ok, tell me something less obvious?.
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sungam
May 6, 2011, 1:48 PM
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Please either start making sense or go away.
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csproul
May 6, 2011, 1:57 PM
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sungam wrote: Please either start making sense or go away. At the very least, if you're not going to make sense, then post something funny!
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ENARE
May 6, 2011, 5:12 PM
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It really was not a project... About 2 months ago my friend led the climb after a long day of climbing and I attempted to top rope afterwards. I could not even really get past the first bolt. Last week, I had another go at leading the climb and made it past the first move without any problems and finished the climb. So, although it was technically a RP and I had a little beta from my buddies lead, it was not really a project; just something that I knew I could do but was too drained to even try the first time around.
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kennoyce
May 6, 2011, 6:09 PM
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Last week I onflashed the first ascent of a 5.17e on my eighth attempt right after my friend pink pointed it on his first try. We both agreed on the grade, but its at a super secret area so no one else has confirmed it.
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bandycoot
May 6, 2011, 6:10 PM
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enigma wrote: Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands , If I were a single female, and I wanted to date a stong climber, this would be a great way to start mining for data... That said: 12c quite regularly when I actually go sport climbing. Josh
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drivel
May 6, 2011, 6:13 PM
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bandycoot wrote: enigma wrote: Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands , If I were a single female, and I wanted to date a stong climber, this would be a great way to start mining for data... That said: 12c quite regularly when I actually go sport climbing. Josh god damnit, you stepped in the crazy.
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drivel
May 6, 2011, 6:14 PM
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bandycoot wrote: enigma wrote: Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands , If I were a single female, and I wanted to date a stong climber, this would be a great way to start mining for data... alternate response... BWHAHAHAHA this would be pretty futile hunting grounds for strong climber boy, as everyone knows, nobody on rc.com actually rock climbs.
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Toast_in_the_Machine
May 6, 2011, 6:23 PM
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drivel wrote: bandycoot wrote: enigma wrote: Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands , If I were a single female, and I wanted to date a stong climber, this would be a great way to start mining for data... alternate response... BWHAHAHAHA this would be pretty futile hunting grounds for strong climber boy, as everyone knows, nobody on rc.com actually rock climbs. I resemble that remark.
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edge
May 6, 2011, 7:13 PM
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My hardest sport onsight was an 11d at Rumney. Since I don't sport climb all that much, it is also my hardest sport send as well. I have yet to climb a 12 on sport, but that should change this year. Climbed a few 5.12 trad onsights BITD.
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psecody
May 8, 2011, 1:34 PM
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I haven't been sport climbing much this year so I haven't really got to climb much but I think the hardest one I've climbed so far this year is War on Rugs 5.10d at Reimer's. My goal is to get liposuction sometime this year though, that route catches my interest and at the same time intimidates me haha.
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enigma
May 8, 2011, 2:44 PM
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bandycoot wrote: enigma wrote: Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands , If I were a single female, and I wanted to date a stong climber, this would be a great way to start mining for data... That said: 12c quite regularly when I actually go sport climbing. Josh Sure don't want a weak climber.
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enigma
May 8, 2011, 2:46 PM
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My goal is to get liposuction sometime this year though, that route catches my interest and at the same time intimidates me haha. Where is it?
(This post was edited by enigma on May 8, 2011, 2:47 PM)
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psecody
May 8, 2011, 4:36 PM
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It's at Reimer's Ranch near Austin, Texas. It's a 5.12a but the start is just really neat.
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enigma
May 11, 2011, 12:07 AM
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caughtinside wrote: I Onflashed a notorious secret route known as either The $20 Hooker or The Warmup. I then downgraded it from 12a to .11d. It is at a super dooper secret crag so I cannot reveal location or post photos. I think some of these secret crags are just that way for a reason.
(This post was edited by enigma on May 11, 2011, 7:08 AM)
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cacalderon
May 12, 2011, 2:09 AM
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11b/c in La Alberca, Valle de Santiago, Mexico
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enigma
May 18, 2011, 3:12 AM
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cacalderon wrote: 11b/c in La Alberca, Valle de Santiago, Mexico What is that area like? Great job!
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enigma
May 24, 2011, 2:21 AM
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psecody wrote: It's at Reimer's Ranch near Austin, Texas. It's a 5.12a but the start is just really neat. Essay, here's someone who has accomplished a great onsight sport lead ! After all this is rockclimbing site. Just try your best !
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psecody
May 24, 2011, 3:16 AM
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Was that a putdown toward me? I was just saying that route was my goal this year, I wasn't saying I had done it.
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enigma
May 24, 2011, 3:26 AM
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psecody wrote: I haven't been sport climbing much this year so I haven't really got to climb much but I think the hardest one I've climbed so far this year is War on Rugs 5.10d at Reimer's. My goal is to get liposuction sometime this year though, that route catches my interest and at the same time intimidates me haha. No, I used your post as a positive example for the other off topic post. So where have you been recently climbing?
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psecody
May 24, 2011, 4:02 AM
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Oh ok, thanks. I wasn't sure which way you meant it haha. I haven't had much time to go climbing recently between work and finals. Mostly all I've gotten to do is go to a couple of gyms which while I was there I was mainly bouldering, just something about sport climbing in a gym I can't really enjoy it as much. But I was doing V4's and 5's which was a big improvement for me since I used to struggle a whole lot on 4's and I got pretty much all the one's I tried within the first few tries. We're planning on going back to Reimer's next weekend though so hopefully I can jump on liposuction and do it.
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cacalderon
May 25, 2011, 11:59 PM
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hehe thanks. I would not make a trip solely to check this area. However, if you are in Mexico City and can spare half a day, the spot is only 1 hr drive. The area is actually interesting since you need to hike down into a circular cliff. Imagine walking into a pot, where you can climb the inner walls of the pot. The place was unique for sure, very hot too in July and I saw several snakes that looked serious (bright red).
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climber49er
May 27, 2011, 11:22 PM
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This thread seriously isn't what it was likely intended to be. For that we should all be ashamed.
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superchuffer
Aug 10, 2011, 9:54 PM
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my hardest climb was.... your mom!
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swoopee
Aug 11, 2011, 4:38 AM
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kennoyce wrote: Last week I onflashed the first ascent of a 5.17e on my eighth attempt right after my friend pink pointed it on his first try. We both agreed on the grade, but its at a super secret area so no one else has confirmed it. 5.17e??? That's nearly as hard as a 5.9+ right?
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freeclimber92
Apr 12, 2012, 5:55 AM
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Hardest onsight hanging draws and all for me was in obed on homeboy I think 12b which is my first 12 ever and only second time leading outside!
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