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Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema
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DougMartin


Jul 8, 2011, 9:15 PM
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Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema
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Most of us that have researched this have seen the DMM video that put Nylon and Dyneema to a head to head test. In my opinion nylon outperformed Dyneema hands down, yet I still see much more dyneema than nylon! Why so? What am I missing about dyneema? Sure its lighter, but do all of us climb big walls and care about the little extra weight! Or is it the abrasion factor, dyneema wears better? I need to buy new draws and have not been able to make up my mind on what to drop the two hundred bucks on! Dyneema or Nylon! Help me out make up my mind!


jakedatc


Jul 8, 2011, 9:30 PM
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DougMartin wrote:
Most of us that have researched this have seen the DMM video that put Nylon and Dyneema to a head to head test. In my opinion nylon outperformed Dyneema hands down, yet I still see much more dyneema than nylon! Why so? What am I missing about dyneema? Sure its lighter, but do all of us climb big walls and care about the little extra weight! Or is it the abrasion factor, dyneema wears better? I need to buy new draws and have not been able to make up my mind on what to drop the two hundred bucks on! Dyneema or Nylon! Help me out make up my mind!

for long slings or quickdraw dogbones?

for long slings i like dyneema since they take up less room on my harness. I have a mix of both though. dyneema definitely wears out faster since they are skinny.

for quickdraws nylon is much better in my opinion. I hate hate hate the skinny dyneema draws that seem to always twist.


DougMartin


Jul 8, 2011, 9:36 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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I am replacing 6 -30cm draws and 6 - 60 cm draws and 3- 120cm draws! I simply have not decided on what to buy. The nylon is by far much cheaper ( by about $50) but if your life counts on it saving $50 seems foolish. Maybe your right a mix is the way to go long in Dyneema and short in nylon!


moose_droppings


Jul 8, 2011, 10:42 PM
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DougMartin wrote:
I am replacing 6 -30cm draws and 6 - 60 cm draws and 3- 120cm draws! I simply have not decided on what to buy. The nylon is by far much cheaper ( by about $50) but if your life counts on it saving $50 seems foolish. Maybe your right a mix is the way to go long in Dyneema and short in nylon!


Your life isn't in danger by going cheaper with nylon. It might very well be safer.

I got tired of replacing the expensive skinny slings often and went back to all nylon a couple years ago. They are a bit bulkier, but I've always racked on a chest harness/sling anyway. There's no long routes with more than 4 change overs here anyway.


johnwesely


Jul 8, 2011, 10:43 PM
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DougMartin wrote:
I am replacing 6 -30cm draws and 6 - 60 cm draws and 3- 120cm draws! I simply have not decided on what to buy. The nylon is by far much cheaper ( by about $50) but if your life counts on it saving $50 seems foolish. Maybe your right a mix is the way to go long in Dyneema and short in nylon!

Your life does not count on it in the sense that one is safer than the other. I would get dyneema for anything longer than a quickdraw dogbone. Nylon is just way to bulky. There is nothing fun about climbing with a heavy or bulky rack, especially when the price difference between a super heavy and super light rack is so negligible.


jakedatc


Jul 8, 2011, 10:44 PM
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DougMartin wrote:
I am replacing 6 -30cm draws and 6 - 60 cm draws and 3- 120cm draws! I simply have not decided on what to buy. The nylon is by far much cheaper ( by about $50) but if your life counts on it saving $50 seems foolish. Maybe your right a mix is the way to go long in Dyneema and short in nylon!

Yea.. 4 footers in dyneema is definitely the way to go.. crazy bulky in nylon.

I would skip the 1 footer/ 30cm.. if you are going to leave it short then leave a 60cm short but if you want to extend it then you'll usually want 60cm anyway.. personally i hate how 30's hang down too far.


gunkiemike


Jul 8, 2011, 11:52 PM
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Re: [DougMartin] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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Yes, your life depends on your slings. And your rope, and you biners.

"So if you'd follow me over here, we have a nice selection of $400 ropes, $18 slings, and $20 biners that are going to make you feel REAL good..."

Now, about those $100 cams...


DougMartin


Jul 9, 2011, 12:22 AM
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Exactly my point, more expensive does not always make it better.


jakedatc


Jul 9, 2011, 12:46 AM
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gunkiemike wrote:
Yes, your life depends on your slings. And your rope, and you biners.

"So if you'd follow me over here, we have a nice selection of $400 ropes, $18 slings, and $20 biners that are going to make you feel REAL good..."

Now, about those $100 cams...

hehe reminds me when i worked at EMS.. a guy came in insisting he wanted a 11mm lead rope.. i'm like ya really don't... plus they don't even make them anymore hehe. he's like well.. i'm gunna keep looking.

apparently our nice bluewater 10.5's weren't thick enough for him :P


rescueman


Jul 9, 2011, 1:21 AM
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Re: [DougMartin] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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DougMartin wrote:
In my opinion nylon outperformed Dyneema hands down, yet I still see much more dyneema than nylon! Why so?

Because "new and better" sells. Everyone is drawn like moths to a flame to the latest high-tech material or gear. And, for those who are addicted to extreme sports, shaving every ounce is key.

For some of us old trad guys, tried-and-true beats new-and-better every time. And there's nothing wrong with saving a few bucks.

For trad climbing, all my slings are nylon. In rescue, I never use any high-strength cordage or webbing. Nylon is king.


acorneau


Jul 9, 2011, 1:58 AM
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Re: [DougMartin] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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I use the BlueWater Titan slings; a great compromise between nylon and Dyneema because it's a blend of both.

http://bluewaterropes.com/...Key=&ProdKey=128


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 9, 2011, 2:01 AM)


notapplicable


Jul 9, 2011, 2:19 AM
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Re: [acorneau] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
I use the BlueWater Titan slings; a great compromise between nylon and Dyneema because it's a blend of both.

http://bluewaterropes.com/...Key=&ProdKey=128

When I replaced my old nylon slings, I went with blend as well. I find them to be a happy middle ground when it comes to bulk, durability, strength and lifespan.


moose_droppings


Jul 9, 2011, 4:18 AM
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Re: [acorneau] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
I use the BlueWater Titan slings; a great compromise between nylon and Dyneema because it's a blend of both.

http://bluewaterropes.com/...Key=&ProdKey=128


I thought all dyneema slings from all manufacturers were mixed with nylon. Maybe your saying Bluewater's blend has a better mix ?

An all dyneema sling would be all white, right?


bearbreeder


Jul 9, 2011, 6:39 AM
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Re: [DougMartin] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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rope stretch ...

DMM tests are static drops ... you dont fall on yr draws without a rope dya now ... never mind a harness


qwert


Jul 9, 2011, 8:01 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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Wait, what are we talking about?

Slings (that stuff you carry over your shoulder, or in trad draws) or
Draws (that fixed little slings, firmly placed between two carabiners)?

Doesnt really matter though, since there is no definitive answer for both of those.

but anyways: For slings i have a mix. for anchoring, i try to use nylon, mainly for the DMM video reasons. For mid pitch use (slinging stuff, etc.) i use dynema, not mainly because its lighter, but rahter because its thinner. I rather sling a "hourglass" (does this term exist in english?) with a thin sling, than not sling it at all, because i cant fit anything in. also, for trad draws i prefer dynema, since they are way too bulky with nylon.

For draws i do not really have a preference, though i mostly use dynema, since nylon simply does not fit most modern biners. Never had issues with twisting.

qwert


mikebee


Jul 9, 2011, 9:30 AM
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Re: [qwert] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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I use dyneema everything (slings and cordalette), because I like saving the weight and space compared to nylon.

Nylon is safer (more dynamic) and cheaper, so if you're a bit strapped for cash, or worried about the safety, then just buy nylon and don't question it. My cow's tail is dyneema too, but I know the limitations of it, I always stay below the point it's clipped in to, and I almost always keep it under tension (lean back onto the anchor). Keep in mind that most of the rap anchors I use are shiny new double bolt belays.

If you're worried about the dyneema increasing the impact force on your pieces causing them to fail, then the pieces are probably marginal enough they needed a screamer on them in the first place.


acorneau


Jul 9, 2011, 1:27 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
I thought all dyneema slings from all manufacturers were mixed with nylon. Maybe your saying Bluewater's blend has a better mix ?

An all dyneema sling would be all white, right?

Yes, AFAIK Dyneema won't take die so it's always white.

Unlike many other sling materials, BW's Titan slings contain a higher percentage of nylon to Dyneema (maybe 50/50?).

Again, the Titan slings are just my personal preference.

Edit to add: Just found this article from SuperTopo comparing different slings...

http://www.supertopo.com/...imbing-Slings-Review


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 9, 2011, 1:33 PM)


moose_droppings


Jul 9, 2011, 3:40 PM
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Re: [acorneau] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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Thanks, I kind of thought that's what you meant.


bearbreeder


Jul 9, 2011, 4:47 PM
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Re: [qwert] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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qwert wrote:
Wait, what are we talking about?

Slings (that stuff you carry over your shoulder, or in trad draws) or
Draws (that fixed little slings, firmly placed between two carabiners)?


the OP asked specifically about draws ...

either way the nylon vs. dyneema issue is a non issue when you climb with a rope in a system

theres a lot of other things that one should worry about ... like the condition of the slings, the placement of the gear, whether yr belayer will drop you, what youll hit on the way down ... etc ...

i find it funny that intraweb climbers go crazy about stuff that IMO doesnt really matter ...

its not like there are pile of bodies at the base of the crags from those deadly dyneema slings and draws ..

there are however tons of accidents from bad belays, miscommunication, head injuries, etc ...
Tongue


jakedatc


Jul 9, 2011, 5:03 PM
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bearbreeder wrote:
qwert wrote:
Wait, what are we talking about?

Slings (that stuff you carry over your shoulder, or in trad draws) or
Draws (that fixed little slings, firmly placed between two carabiners)?


the OP asked specifically about draws ...

either way the nylon vs. dyneema issue is a non issue when you climb with a rope in a system

theres a lot of other things that one should worry about ... like the condition of the slings, the placement of the gear, whether yr belayer will drop you, what youll hit on the way down ... etc ...

i find it funny that intraweb climbers go crazy about stuff that IMO doesnt really matter ...

its not like there are pile of bodies at the base of the crags from those deadly dyneema slings and draws ..

there are however tons of accidents from bad belays, miscommunication, head injuries, etc ...
Tongue

Uhh.. he was talking about slings. 1', 2' and 4' lengths to be exact.

and the only difference between the nylon and dyneema to worry about is that dyneema draws are skinnier and wear out faster. For some replacing them more often is a good trade for smaller and lighter. some it is not so they get nylon.


Rudmin


Jul 12, 2011, 1:50 AM
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Re: [DougMartin] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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It's nice to have a mix of different sling materials, nylon, dyneema-nylon blends, tubular. I usually throw nylon on anything that is really abrasive, like slinging chocks and trees. Sometimes nylon is nice for slinging a horn or flake because the bulk lets you wedge it in against the rock so it doesn't lift out. Sometimes dyneema is handy for these situations because the smaller size lets you thread keyholes or some such. In general I trust both equally and have more dyneema than nylon just because they are less bulky.


Gmburns2000


Jul 12, 2011, 2:34 AM
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Well, this will make you run to dyneema in a hurry: I have nylon on my rack and I think they're OK. Yeah, dyneema racks better, but I'd rather carry that little extra weight and be safer than not. I use a chest sling anyway, so the bulkiness isn't so bad for me. Besides I can't afford to run out an replace my slings every year, so that's another reason I go with nylon.

However, I need to replace them and I'm thinking of getting the BW mixed slings. If I don't, it'll be nylon again.


rescueman


Jul 12, 2011, 2:38 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
If I don't, it'll be nylon again.


Oh, no! Not again. How boring: cheap, safe and reliable. Where's the adventure in it?


surfstar


Jul 12, 2011, 3:05 AM
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Yeah, I gave up my c4s - just too darn bulky and heavy with their nylon slings.

Crazy


rescueman


Jul 12, 2011, 3:26 AM
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It's all so damn bulky and heavy. I'm thinking of trading in my 10.2 nylon climbing ropes for 8mm aramid escape line.

Strong as hell and much less bulky. Can even withstand a fire up to 900°F. Who the hell cares if it doesn't stretch and fractures if it bends too much.Crazy


johnwesely


Jul 12, 2011, 3:38 AM
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surfstar wrote:
Yeah, I gave up my c4s - just too darn bulky and heavy with their nylon slings.

Crazy

If you don't understand the difference between that little bit of nylon on a cam and the hulking mass of nylon on a two or four foot runner...


rescueman


Jul 12, 2011, 3:45 AM
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johnwesely wrote:
If you don't understand the difference between that little bit of nylon on a cam and the hulking mass of nylon on a two or four foot runner...

"Hulking Mass"



(This post was edited by rescueman on Jul 12, 2011, 3:46 AM)


surfstar


Jul 12, 2011, 3:48 AM
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johnwesely wrote:
surfstar wrote:
Yeah, I gave up my c4s - just too darn bulky and heavy with their nylon slings.

Crazy

If you don't understand the difference between that little bit of nylon on a cam and the hulking mass of nylon on a two or four foot runner...

Just effing with ya. Its a sliding scale and I'm too gumby to blame my heavy nylon runners for my lack of skilz. I'll take cheap, bulky, heavy and durable for now.
I have a couple Titan runners and 10mm dyneema and they don't seem all that much lighter and slimmer than nylon when racked.


Gmburns2000


Jul 12, 2011, 4:10 AM
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rescueman wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
If I don't, it'll be nylon again.


Oh, no! Not again. How boring: cheap, safe and reliable. Where's the adventure in it?

In real life, I like to fly under the radar.


johnwesely


Jul 12, 2011, 1:05 PM
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rescueman wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
If you don't understand the difference between that little bit of nylon on a cam and the hulking mass of nylon on a two or four foot runner...

"Hulking Mass"
[image]http://www.superhotphoto.com/Malaysia/Malaysia/Photo/ROTFL.gif[/image]

When you are weak, skinny, and suck at climbing like me, you want to tip the odds in your favor in whatever way possible.

P.S. your giant smiley face guy is pretty cute.


acorneau


Jul 12, 2011, 3:03 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
However, I need to replace them and I'm thinking of getting the BW mixed slings. If I don't, it'll be nylon again.

Another player one might consider (if they care about such things) is the Metolius Monster slings. Acording to their website...

In reply to:
13 mm (0.51") Monster Sling webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)


JimTitt


Jul 12, 2011, 6:27 PM
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I´ll be at the annual Euro trade bash end of the week and have to see a few of the tape weavers so I´ll try to get a breakdown of the mixes the use for all the common brands.
And photo´s of the pick of the hospitality girls.

However when we break the normal hybrid weaves we see the nylon rupturing first. It looks to me like the way the dyneema is woven through the nylon the dyneema straightens out and the nylon interweave is chopped. In most of the tape the nylon is only there to hold the rest together and provide cross threads for the stitching and I´ve spent a boring evening unpicking it because I only wanted the dyneema thread, losing the nylon made no difference to the strength.

Edelrid have a new hybrid out so we´ll see what this is like but if you want stretchy then nylon, if not then Dyneema, like most things in climbing it´s horses for courses.

Jim


caughtinside


Jul 12, 2011, 6:48 PM
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I used to run a lot of the skinny expensive slings, a full rack of them. They started wearing out, and I heard about those tests where they only have like a 3 year life span.

So when I needed to replace them after 3 years I just started going with nylon slings. And you know what? They're great. I didn't notice the additional bulk after like a day, I keep all the slings on my rear harness loops anyway. Added bonus of them costing half as much and lasting way longer, and I can leave them at anchor stations that need backing up.

I still like to have two tech skinnies for slinging things where that tiny bit of bulk makes a difference but it is pretty rare. And also my 4' slings (which I probably only take on 5% of pitches and are generally only used for anchors anyway) are skinny because of the length/bulk issue.

I see the dynamic tendencies of the nylon a bonus as well.

check out these tests... http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...r-or-not-to-screamer

a short nylon draw can reduce impact force on a single piece by 5% over dyneema? Makes me wonder how that would test out with a two foot sling. Anyway, 5% peak force reduction by doing nothing special by me is something I'll take.

I don't think anyone who climbs with just the dyneema or whatever is making a bad choice, but for me, I am happy to get nylon back in the system.


bearbreeder


Jul 12, 2011, 7:50 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
I

I see the dynamic tendencies of the nylon a bonus as well.

check out these tests... http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...r-or-not-to-screamer

a short nylon draw can reduce impact force on a single piece by 5% over dyneema? Makes me wonder how that would test out with a two foot sling. Anyway, 5% peak force reduction by doing nothing special by me is something I'll take.

I don't think anyone who climbs with just the dyneema or whatever is making a bad choice, but for me, I am happy to get nylon back in the system.

thats only 111 lb force or 0.5 KN on a factor 1 ... on the other factor ~0.4 test they did .. the difference was only 7 lbs or 0.1 KN

basically id say thats not really an issue ... the rope and belay matter much more

BD themselves say ...

" Remember, our testing is not the real world, and using knots instead of a real belay device, as well as a rigid mass instead of a squishy human body are factors to consider which may make our results different than the manufacturer's claims.

....


The rope is the most key piece of energy absorbing equipment."


at the end of the day i think many people are misinterpreting the static DMM drop test with dead weights ....

when there is a rope and belay in the system ... both nylon and dyneema are "safe" ... if it werent DMM wouldnt sell it

from their own website ...

"This isn’t to say Dyneema® is bad and nylon is good. On the contrary, comparing the two materials, Dyneema® has a strength to weight ratio higher than not just nylon but also steel, a significantly higher resistance to cutting and lower water absorbtion (important in winter), making it an ideal material for slings and quickdraws. It is also more resistant to ultra-violet rays and chemical attack than nylon but has a lower melting point. "


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jul 12, 2011, 7:59 PM)


caughtinside


Jul 12, 2011, 7:59 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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yes, I agree that both are safe. I was just pointing out that nylon is indeed more dynamic and this is a small side benefit to other properties of nylon that I like.


rescueman


Jul 12, 2011, 8:56 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
yes, I agree that both are safe. I was just pointing out that nylon is indeed more dynamic and this is a small side benefit to other properties of nylon that I like.

Stick to your guns! Don't let the high-techies horsewhip you into their bias.

Yes, 0.5 kn may be a small amount in the abstract, but in that test it was the difference between 10.1 kN and 9.6 kN. Since most gear is rated to 10 kN, that "little bit" can make all the difference.

And, if you're being belayed off the anchor (as most guides recommend), and take a FF2 whipper before placing a piece, then you're shock loading those nice skinny "chain-like" slings with very little rope and next to no dynamic belay, while doubling the force on the anchor.

I'm with you. I'd rather have nylon.


(This post was edited by rescueman on Jul 12, 2011, 8:59 PM)


bearbreeder


Jul 12, 2011, 9:09 PM
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Re: [rescueman] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:
Yes, 0.5 kn may be a small amount in the abstract, but in that test it was the difference between 10.1 kN and 9.6 kN. Since most gear is rated to 10 kN, that "little bit" can make all the difference.

funny i though most biners and slings were rated to 20 kn+

bolts, same

trad pieces depends, but you probably want an anchor that can handle the same for all the pieces toghether

rope ... well the rope didnt break in any of the BD tests

keep in mind that the BD test did not have any real sample size, didnt use harnesses in the system, nor a belay, nor squishy climbers

using those numbers to infer that nylon draws are "safer" than dyneema draws aint the best scientific practice in the world

but then this is rc Tongue


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jul 12, 2011, 9:10 PM)


rescueman


Jul 12, 2011, 9:26 PM
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bearbreeder wrote:
funny i though most biners and slings were rated to 20 kn+

bolts, same

If you only climb sport routes and don't use a Grigri (which doesn't offer a very dynamic belay), then steel slings and chains would be fine.

In reply to:
using those numbers to infer [sic] that nylon draws are "safer" than dyneema draws aint the best scientific practice in the world

Using improper language to make a "scientific" point doesn't inspire a great deal of confidence.

In reply to:
but then this is rc


bearbreeder


Jul 12, 2011, 9:36 PM
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Re: [rescueman] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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spelling nazis Wink

id rather take DMMs word on the use of dyneema on slings and draws ... since they performed the "drop tests" that the OP is so concerned about

somehow i dont think they sell em dyneema slings only for bolts Tongue

Dyneema is a remarkable material and it is true to say that it has revolutionised sling production. It has several advantages over the traditional nylon webbing. For a start it is incredibly light and strong, it is also less susceptible to UV degradation and is more abrasion resistant.

There are other advantages too which will help you when you are out on the crag. The skinny profile of the tape means that you can take advantage of much narrower threads and the sling is less likely to slide off marginal spike placements.



caughtinside


Jul 12, 2011, 9:37 PM
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bearbreeder wrote:
using those numbers to infer that nylon draws are "safer" than dyneema draws aint the best scientific practice in the world

I'm using that limited testing and the numbers it produced to make my own decision on which climbing gear to use, since safety is relative.

I then posted my thoughts on the subject, people are free to agree or disagree as they wish. Or hell, even use physics to prove me wrong. That's ok.


rescueman


Jul 12, 2011, 9:49 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
spelling nazis Wink

Apologies. I thought you just didn't know the difference between "infer" and "imply" (as most Americans don't) - not a spelling mistake, but a misuse of the English language (which makes you semi-literate).

But I see now that you are also illiterate about history, and who the Nazis were and what they did. That makes you ignorant, not just semi-literate.

In reply to:
id [sic] rather take DMMs word on the use of dyneema on [sic] slings and draws

And I suppose you'd take American Tobacco Company's word on the health effects of cigarettes.


bearbreeder


Jul 12, 2011, 10:46 PM
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rescueman wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
spelling nazis Wink

Apologies. I thought you just didn't know the difference between "infer" and "imply" (as most Americans don't) - not a spelling mistake, but a misuse of the English language (which makes you semi-literate).

But I see now that you are also illiterate about history, and who the Nazis were and what they did. That makes you ignorant, not just semi-literate.

In reply to:
id [sic] rather take DMMs word on the use of dyneema on [sic] slings and draws

And I suppose you'd take American Tobacco Company's word on the health effects of cigarettes.

bleat bleat bleat ...

now DMM is the same as a tabcco company?

that says it all Tongue


DougMartin


Jul 12, 2011, 11:51 PM
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Re: [DougMartin] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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From the OP...
Thanks to everyone for their opinion. It has been humorous reading some of these comments. I do believe I will be buying nylon. For multiple reasons, the main one begin that there is no additional benefits in Dyneema that make it worth the additional price. They both do the same job well. So I am saving my $50 and buying another ultralight TCU or maybe should I buy another CamAlot?


gunkiemike


Jul 13, 2011, 12:28 AM
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Re: [rescueman] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:

And, if you're being belayed off the anchor (as most guides recommend), and take a FF2 whipper before placing a piece, then you're shock loading those nice skinny "chain-like" slings with very little rope and next to no dynamic belay, while doubling the force on the anchor.

There is no doubling of the force (1.6X the climber force is a lot closer to what you are referring to anyway, but I digress) in a FF2 fall.

FF 1.99 maybe, but not a true FF2 (no running belay points)


gunkiemike


Jul 13, 2011, 12:30 AM
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DougMartin wrote:
From the OP...
Thanks to everyone for their opinion. It has been humorous reading some of these comments. I do believe I will be buying nylon. For multiple reasons, the main one begin that there is no additional benefits in Dyneema that make it worth the additional price. They both do the same job well. So I am saving my $50 and buying another ultralight TCU or maybe should I buy another CamAlot?


Well, that sorta comes full circle, doesn't it? The TCU has a Dyneema blend sling and the BD is all nylon.

What to do, what to do??!!?


rescueman


Jul 13, 2011, 1:38 AM
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gunkiemike wrote:
There is no doubling of the force (1.6X the climber force is a lot closer to what you are referring to anyway, but I digress) in a FF2 fall.

You're relying on rules of thumb: that a single aluminum carabiner has an efficiency of 60%. But the friction loss in a dynamic event over a single 'biner would depend on the rope contact angle and the dynamic coefficient of friction, which can be as low as 0.16 under heavy loading.

So the total anchor force could be between 1.6 times the load with a 180° contact angle to as much as 1.78 times with a 90° contact angle.

You're quite right that only theoretically would the anchor force be doubled, but the anchor force multiplier is independent of the FF and the fall distance. The more rope out, the longer the anchor "feels" the force.


jakedatc


Jul 13, 2011, 2:07 AM
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Re: [rescueman] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:
gunkiemike wrote:
There is no doubling of the force (1.6X the climber force is a lot closer to what you are referring to anyway, but I digress) in a FF2 fall.

You're relying on rules of thumb: that a single aluminum carabiner has an efficiency of 60%. But the friction loss in a dynamic event over a single 'biner would depend on the rope contact angle and the dynamic coefficient of friction, which can be as low as 0.16 under heavy loading.

So the total anchor force could be between 1.6 times the load with a 180° contact angle to as much as 1.78 times with a 90° contact angle.

You're quite right that only theoretically would the anchor force be doubled, but the anchor force multiplier is independent of the FF and the fall distance. The more rope out, the longer the anchor "feels" the force.

Oh for fucks sake just shut the fuck up.


redlude97


Jul 13, 2011, 6:10 AM
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Re: [rescueman] Is there a definative answer! Nylon vs Dyneema [In reply to]
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rescueman wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
If you don't understand the difference between that little bit of nylon on a cam and the hulking mass of nylon on a two or four foot runner...

"Hulking Mass"
[image]http://www.superhotphoto.com/Malaysia/Malaysia/Photo/ROTFL.gif[/image]
Its all relative right? Unless all you use is hand tied nylon slings since they are the cheapest and with enough tail they will never come undone


gunkiemike


Jul 15, 2011, 2:13 AM
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Rescueman - you missed my point. There is no biner on the rope (to make that 180* bend) in a true FF2 fall.


tugboat


Jul 19, 2011, 7:51 PM
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In reply to:
I thought all dyneema slings from all manufacturers were mixed with nylon. Maybe your saying Bluewater's blend has a better mix ?An all dyneema sling would be all white, right?

yes....an all spectra/dyneema sling would be white. Generally in the climbing community i have found that people refer to spectra/dyneema slings as meaning the "blended" material. Dyneema and spectra are the same material but produced by different manufacturers and sometimes by a slightley differnet process. Pure spectra does not make for a great sling material.... for several reasons (heat issues, low coefficient of friction = sewing issues, etc). Slings that are "blended"/milled with a nylon mix are technically not 'dyneema' or 'spectra' but whatever the company that has ordered the spec'd webbing has decided to name it


tugboat


Jul 19, 2011, 10:59 PM
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some pull tests i just did of spectra blend climbing webbing..... for those interested. I took some sling material that i left outside year round for the last 4 years and compared it to the same lot material that had been properly stored.... On average there was a 33% drop in strength.

http://youtu.be/QNpZ8mFOZmM


(This post was edited by tugboat on Jul 19, 2011, 11:03 PM)


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