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downshift
Nov 20, 2001, 4:23 AM
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Hey I've been discussing this a lot with my climbing partners and we seem to have heard a lot of altering opinion about gyms in our area so I was wondering what people think of the Southern Ontario gyms. Winter is about to hit and I wouldn't mind some variety. Not that it counts for much I'll give my opinions.
Gyms I've been to:
Joe Rockheads (T.O.) - Clean, with an decent bouldering area plenty of routes. I find they rate their climbs a little higher than they are and it can get really busy on weekends and evening. If you can go in the afternoon its pretty peaceful. It feels like climbing in a Sears for some reason.
The Rock Oasis (T.O.) - Tall climbs, that's cool. Really friendly atmosphere. The only real downside to it is their climate control and its really cramped.
Gravity (Hamilton) - It's my home gym so I guess I kinda biased about it. I like it. Bouldering room could be better though.
Guelph Grotto (Guelph) - I always heard mixed things about this gym and I was up in Guelph last weekend and went. I really like it, friendly staff, decent routes and really interesting bouldering caves. It's a bit on the small side but, they make good use of their space.
Gyms I haven't been to and don't go to because of what I hear. Are the rumors true?
Toronto Climbing Academy (T.O.) - I hear it's busy and there are no intermediate routes.
Of Rock and Chalk (Newmarket) - I keep hearing its pretty run down.
Peak Climbing Gym (St. Catharines) - I've just heard bad things...
Clarkson Rock (Mississauga) - I have never heard a thing about this gym I wouldn't mind hearing some info about it.
I apologize if I bashed anyone local gym. That is not the intention of this post.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-11-19 20:26 ]
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kriso9tails
Nov 20, 2001, 4:44 AM
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Gravity is my home gym as well. It would be so much better if Ried weren't such a slacker , but the new wall and potential bouldering area are really nice. The route setting and variety is also improving.
I have been to most of the local gyms. Of the ones that you listed, but haven't been to.
TCA is nice, clean, and the Pyramide stuff is really cool, but the service is really bad. I've heard several people complain about the owner.
Of Rock and Chalk is fairly nice but the owner was being a real jerk and pissed me off quite abit (maybe he was just having a bad day). The rest of the staff was super friendly. The set up makes good use of small space and the routes were pretty decent.
Peaks... it was alright. I just went for a small comp. The gym's not very large, but the people seemed friendly and easy going. I found the comp routes a little wierd, but it could have just been me.
I've never heard of Clarkson Rock...
I've been to several others that were'nt mentioned but I don't feel like writing anymore.
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c_plante
Nov 21, 2001, 4:37 AM
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I've only been to 2 indoor gyms, gravity and joe rockheads.
Gravity: Could use some better a/c in the summer time, kinda hot when you reach the top, a good variety of climbs, especially for me since the toughest I've climbed is a 5.8 (so far ) Prices seem kind of high, but I'm poor, and I've only been to one other gym. I wish the bouldering area was more varied.
Gravity is my home gym.
Joe Rockheads: Downshift is right, it's like climbing in a sears. Very spacious and comfortable, nice squishee floors that you can fall on without worry. A monstrous variety of climbs, I really like the bouldering area. But the 5.7 I climbed felt like a 5.5- or less. The climbs aren't as high as gravity, but they do have several multi pitch routes that are really tough. And a few sloper walls that are cool. One day I'll climb them...
Of the two I prefer gravity simply because they have tougher longer routes, and I'll have to push myself harder to get to the top. Downshift is right, Gravity gets you ready for the outdoors, while Rockheads gets you ready for more indoor gyms.
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missedyno
Nov 21, 2001, 10:52 PM
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Rockheads in Toronto is really like climbing in sears. not sure why i agree, it just seems right.
rockheads climbs are usually pretty fluid and technically friendly.
oasis is great for height, but it does get kind of congested.
climbs are pumpy, especially if you're a bit shorter than giant.
rockheads also has a markham location. very small, but you can lead climb the ceiling. climbs are graded a lot harder than the toronto location.
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krillen
Nov 21, 2001, 11:08 PM
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Gravity is my home gym, too. The routsetting is getting better recently, and tends to lead towards more technical climbing.
Rockheads in TO has a great bouldering section, and I have to pretty much echo whath the others have said. The one thing it excels in is harder lead stuff. Gravity lacks lead stuff that is over 12- (not that I climb it). this due mainly to harder leaders migrating to Rockheads. Rockheads has a great leading section with soem hard hard routes. the rest is pretty under graded.
Vertical Reality (I think that was the name) in Ottawa was pretty good. Decent bouldering area, and the TR section was slightly cramped, but the lead area was phenominal! you can climb up one side, across the roof, and down the other wall. It's built in an old Mill or Hydro plant of sorts, the lead routes are approx 60' up one side. The routes tend to be reachy, and the holds get pretty grimy. I did enjoy it though
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downshift
Nov 22, 2001, 12:34 AM
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C_p:
Quote:Downshift is right, Gravity gets you ready for the outdoors, while Rockheads gets you ready for more indoor gyms.
I'm flattered with the above but what I really meant to say is Gravity gets me ready for the bar. It's vary rare that you acknowledge my correctness, I'll have to mark this day on my calender.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-11-21 16:36 ]
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krillen
Nov 22, 2001, 12:52 AM
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well if it helps, you are both wrong. just wrong...just because....
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c_plante
Nov 22, 2001, 9:46 AM
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Downshift:
I only did that 'cause you're scoring me a game Although I sometimes blackout with hard drinking, and since that's what we like to do after a long climb it's probably why I forgot to mention it...
What was I talking about?
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sparker
Nov 25, 2001, 2:01 AM
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I've spent time in Waterloo for university (Wilfrid Laurier) and climbed at Higher Ground/Sportsworld. Route setting was good, one problem is that they have packed a lot of climbs into a small space so the routes tend to be narrow and sometimes overlap at the bottom. You could also find a bouldering route put up with taped holds on the middle of the wall. Climate control and floors were good. I don’t boulder much but I think the cave at sportsworld is the best I’ve seen. It is much better then Gravity and Rockheads. (I have not been to sportsworld in over a year so things may have changed)
I currently live in Hamilton and climb at Gravity. It is by far my favourite gym. Great routes, atmosphere, members and staff. It does get hot in the summer but that’s when I’m outside so it doesn’t bother me much.
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c_plante
Dec 5, 2001, 11:08 PM
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Sparker: Is higher ground worth a road trip?
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sparker
Dec 5, 2001, 11:25 PM
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Yes, Higher Ground is worth a road trip. I think the phone number is 519 650 4487. Gravity is better but Higher Ground is good for a change.
Let me know when you are going. I'm easy to recognize, my hair is currently blond with candy cane shapes in it.
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downshift
Dec 11, 2001, 12:41 AM
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Sparker,
I keep meaning to get up to Higher Ground in Kitchener me being UW Alumni and all. Hopefully, I get the crew on a road trip out there. We've just been recently hitting the Grotto in Guelph a lot since its really quiet and has some decent problems.
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c_plante
Dec 11, 2001, 4:56 AM
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Apparently there are a few indoor climbing gyms in London too. I have yet to confirm this and I have this info on heresay alone, I'll work to confirm over the next few days, however if anyone knows for certain please reply.
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sparker
Dec 11, 2001, 8:56 PM
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Years ago I climbed at a gym in London called Adventure Connection. It is now closed.
I heard that "Spikes indoor volleyball(?)" has a wall with a few lines. I don't think this is a "real" gym.
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c_plante
Dec 11, 2001, 9:06 PM
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According to Canada411.com there's a Spikes Indoor Rock Climbing Gym Inc Phone: (519)673-6847
120 Weston, London, ON N6C 1R4
Is that it?
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downshift
Dec 11, 2001, 10:18 PM
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Ok here is my understanding of the London area. There are two climbing walls:
1) Spikes, as c_plante mentioned which is just a climbing wall with 16 routes.
www.spikes.on.ca
2) Intencity www.eastparkgolf.com/rockclimbing.htm
Both of these are just amusement park walls so I don't imagine them to be very good.
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c_plante
Dec 11, 2001, 11:13 PM
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Thanks downshift, I'm told that the spikes place has corporate type stuff mostly.
christian
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frogirl
Jan 5, 2002, 7:43 AM
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I live in London and would like to add my 2 cents.
Spikes:it started as just beach volleyball but about a year ago they added rock climbing along one wall.Not much, but they've got some good problems and great staff(talk to talonsofsteel, he works there).
Eastpark:Mainly set up so that 8 year olds can pay $5 to climb up once with a member of the staff belaying them.Like someone said, it's an amusement park.
Neither of these are really gyms.Hope I answered some questions!:)
By the way, is it fair to say that Gravity is your favorite?
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c_plante
Jan 5, 2002, 2:42 PM
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I'd say that gravity is my fav.
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downshift
Jan 6, 2002, 3:30 PM
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My favorite... Hard to say. It's a toss up between Gravity (since it is my home gym) and the Grotto (which is small quite and Tranquil). But, Rockheads and Oasis has it merits. So come to think of it I guess my favorite gym depend on what mood I'm in.
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c_plante
Jan 9, 2002, 7:34 AM
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I think that the grotto would be nicer if they'd clean their holds
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stewbing
Jan 9, 2002, 2:56 PM
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Here are a few thoughts on this topic. The Grotto is a good gym with nice intermediate to advanced climbs. I found that when I just started they had a lot of mid range climbs that allowed me to improve while feeling like I accomplished a lot by finishing the climbs. The Grotto can get very busy but hey that's great from our climbing community right!! And yes sometimes the climate control is a little off, and the staff are great.
The Boiler Room in Kingston, a lot of varitey in the climbs, not very long though except for a 100 foot chimney climb, I think the highest indoor climb in Ontario, kind nice to get that high indoors and worth a visit if you're in the Kingston area.
Higher Ground, by far my favorite gym, big enough to give you a lot of variety in climbs, but small enough to make it feel intimate enough to get to know all the regular climbers. Their route setting is great, both for routes and bouldering (kudos to Zach, Chris, Harry and others). I would suggest to anyone that is in the area to come to Higher Ground, Day passes are available at a good price.
my thoughts
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jarek
Jan 9, 2002, 8:39 PM
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c_plante
I don't understand what your beef with the Grotto is? It's a well run gym with good, CLEAN holds. If youre complaining about the amount of chalk on the holds I suggest you invest in a brush, but really the amount of chalk on the holds is average for an indoor climbing gym.
jarek
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c_plante
Jan 14, 2002, 10:54 PM
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When we were at the grotto again on the weekend I got a really good look at the holds, and the route that I was complaining about was gone. I didn't say that I hated the grotto, only that some of the routes were dirty. I do like their routes though, they're rated harder than I'm used to and that's okay. I'm also a growing fan of the squishy floors. But I really believe that the grotto has the best bouldering area that I've seen so far, not counting the glen of course.
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kriso9tails
Jan 15, 2002, 11:47 PM
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Higher Ground is an odd place. I haven't been there in a while, but I remember there being no real climbers around. The place is really pretty, but the route setting was no good. These things could have easily changed since I last visited, but due to its direct surroundings I somehow doubt that.
On the plus side, the bouldering cave is great. It even has a semi-hidden make-out section.
Oh yeah, they also used to have a small competition that was really cool. The rowts were really nice when they were set for the comp.
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atg200
Jan 16, 2002, 12:38 AM
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I went to Rockheads on a business trip to Toronto(thanks crazylikeafawkes). I thought it was an excellent gym. The routes were more varied with fewer crimpers and cleaner holds than the gyms I climb at in Colorado. The climbers were very nice and made me feel very welcome and at home on my first visit.
My only problem with it was the humidity-I don't use chalk so I was greasing off the top of every route. Guess I need to bring a chalk bag if I go there again.
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stewbing
Jan 16, 2002, 6:39 PM
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Kris,
I think that you will be really happy with Higher ground now, I think the oddity with Higher Ground when it first opened was that it's at an 'amusement park'. But now that it is established there are always really good routes set. Also as I said before the route setters are top notch. Also I think there are some of the strongest boulder's in Southern Ontario training there. So if you are in the area check it out and I think you'll enjoy yourself.
[ This Message was edited by: stewbing on 2002-01-16 10:58 ]
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fiend
Jan 16, 2002, 7:07 PM
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hehe, you may want to watch that 'strongest boulderers in S. Ontario' comment, that's a pretty strong statement these days
Is Jer Smith still around? I know he was working at Higher Ground or something a few years back.
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kriso9tails
Jan 16, 2002, 8:31 PM
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I might check it out again. Do you think that Higher Ground will have any comps in the next few months?
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downshift
Jan 17, 2002, 5:54 PM
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Hey has anyone checked out Higher Grounds other location in Ajax. They mention it on there website.
http://www.sentex.net/~climber/
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downshift
Jan 26, 2002, 10:27 PM
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Ok I finally went to Higher Ground in Kitchener and did some climbing (Go figure). I like their route varity and I was impressed with their bouldering area. The only things I didn't like was that it seemed to have more kids groups than other gyms and it really doesn't have a real changing or lounging area. But, other than that I like it.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2002-01-26 15:02 ]
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xen_monkey
Jan 29, 2002, 4:12 AM
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Higher ground is less conjested in the summer. All the kids are at the pool, You can spend as much time as you want climbing arround their basement bouldering cave. I've killed my forarms there crawling about the ceiling
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c_plante
Jan 29, 2002, 9:08 AM
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Well I was there on the weekend with some friends and I was wondering what everyone thinks of it.
Here's my take:
1) The route grades aren't consitently marked. The tougher routes are often underated. They had a 40-50ft 5.7, lots of easy jugs, but it had 2 overhangs and since I hate those I'd have given the climb an 8. But that's just personal.
2) Kids should be leashed, I've read other peoples posts in the past about kids running around and underneath climbers and I've finally experienced it for myself. Especially in the bouldering room, I suspect that if my partner hadn't have been there and I fell like I did I might have crushed a wee little one. The kids were largely unsupervised and given free reign. It doesn't help that the arcade is right next to the gym.
3) The bouldering cave was pretty sweet, if the kids hadn't have been in there I probably would have spent more time in there.
4) The facilites are non-existant, you've got a broom closet for changing and you have to use the common bathroom if you need to do anything else. Lets just say, arcade, kids, pop...
5) The staff were friendly but a little lazy. The guy who checked me and my partner out for belay kind of walked by, saw what we were doing and said yeah fine. At least at Gravity someone stands right beside you and watches you the entire time. I find that attention to detail a bit more comforting, but that's just me and I guess I'm crazy.
6) Almost every route is a multi-pitch route, which is pretty sweet, especially since I'm a fat f*cker and I need to work on the whole weight vs. gravity thing. If you get a chance climb the chimney, it's nothing special but it's kinda fun.
All in all I'd go back for sure, but I'd want to find out when the kiddies aren't there, I think that that would make the gym worth the trip alone.
Christian
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stewbing
Jan 29, 2002, 12:32 PM
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I have to admit that during the weekends, the gym is over run with kids, this goes with the fact that the gym is at an amusement park of sorts. Some of the best times to climb are Tuesday and thursday evenings, very few kids, and lots of very committed climbers training. If you can't get there through the week and the weekend is your only option, get there early, from about 10:00 am till 12:30 pm there shouldn't be too much kid traffic. I'm glad some of you took the time out to check Higher Ground, and I hope you'll be back again.
D
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krillen
Jan 29, 2002, 1:53 PM
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I've hit Gravity on days like that too. It's frustrating when everything under a 5.10+ is busy, kids everywhere, lots of noise.
My solution? Jump on the sick hard stuff no one else is one
Sunday I took a nice whipper on the middle route on the Orange wall. I missed the last/clipping hold. I had the redpoint too! Another day I guess....
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c_plante
Jan 29, 2002, 9:00 PM
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Yeah that 5.5 on the orange wall can be tough eh?
Christian
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krillen
Jan 29, 2002, 10:11 PM
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almost as hard as the walk in the front door somedays
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downshift
Jan 30, 2002, 2:27 AM
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Ok.
So I've done the Grotto, Gravity, Higher Ground, Rock Oasis, Joe Rockheads... where do ya'll recommend I trip out to next for variety?
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c_plante
Jan 30, 2002, 9:12 AM
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You could try going to hell...
Christian
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krillen
Jan 30, 2002, 1:31 PM
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ouchie
What's the gym in St.Catherine's called again?
You could hit Kingston, or Ottawa, or even Windsor...but for all that effort you might as well go outdoor.
Was anyone at Gravity last night?
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downshift
Jan 30, 2002, 4:43 PM
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C_plante:
If I go to hell you know your coming along for the ride. Right?
Krillen:
Wasn't at Gravity last night, I went on Monday. Did I miss something cool?
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c_plante
Jan 30, 2002, 8:03 PM
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Hey yeah road trip to hell! I'm in!
Downshift and I were at Gravity on Monday, and we'll both be there on thursday and saturday.
How to spot us:
c_plante: Tall guy, ruggedly handsome good looks, glasses, military buzz hair cut, boreal gold shoes.
Downshift: Short, damn ugly, glasses (occassionally), same haircut for the last 15000 years, his shoes are either his red zens, or his new ones that I can't remember the names of or colour of
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krillen
Jan 30, 2002, 8:32 PM
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no, nothing cool, except me being me.
I SHOULD be there thursday night, but I have a meeting, then I may be going to play hockey. so it all depends on how the nigh goes.
I've been working orange and lead walls a lot lately. I'm usually the guy in the cheesy almost see-thru Batman shirt. If I'm wokring something, people are usually yelling encouragement and calling me Barry. Long story.
I don't kow if Sparker, Fiend, or Kris-O-Nine-Tails are going to be there. Guys?
Anyone?
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fiend
Jan 30, 2002, 8:43 PM
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I dunno, I might be going tonight so I probably won't be there tomorrow, unless I don't go tonight then I will be there tomorrow, unless I say I'll be there tomorrow because I never end up going when I say I will ahead of time
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krillen
Jan 30, 2002, 9:07 PM
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that's because you are a lyign slacker Fiend.
If you come tomorrow I'll bring my Mex. pics...
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c_plante
Jan 30, 2002, 11:44 PM
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So are you guys going to be there thursday or not?
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sparker
Jan 31, 2002, 2:27 AM
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I should be there, look for a guy wearing anasazis
Or a T-shirt that says "Western Sucks".
You might here people calling me Skippy.
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downshift
Jan 31, 2002, 3:02 AM
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C_P:
Quote:Downshift: Short, damn ugly, glasses (occassionally), same haircut for the last 15000 years, his shoes are either his red zens, or his new ones that I can't remember the names of or colour of
You really need to lay off the sauce it really is altering your perception of reality. It scares me that I let you belay me... And anyway my hair is consistent, it prides itself on that fact... BTW the new shoes are Scarpa Minimas.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2002-01-30 19:06 ]
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c_plante
Jan 31, 2002, 10:23 AM
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Downshift: If I don't drink a quart of gin every morning I don't get up. And I've given up tracking your shoes, it seems like everytime I talk to you, you want another pair... This time it's red chillies or something isn't it?
Everyone else: If any climbers on RC.com overhear someone yelling "Chew that cud" it's likely Downshift and I, and our other climbing partners. Uh.. Don't ask where it came from either, I'm still not certain and I say it.
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downshift
Jan 31, 2002, 11:48 PM
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C_P
I think the origins of "Chew that cud" require there own forum... But now is not the time I guess due to weather Grav is out tonight I was so looking forward to working on the 5.10 on the orange wall. Oh well there always Saturday.
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fiend
Feb 1, 2002, 12:06 AM
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Due to the weather and the fact that I don't feel like walking through it for 20 min, I won't be there either
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c_plante
Feb 1, 2002, 4:58 AM
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Don't you wish that we had a tunnel system that connected all the climbing gyms in north america to each other, and there would be like maglev trains and shiite... Yeah that'd be cool. Or I could just build my own home wall for a billionth of the cost.
I want a home wall
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xen_monkey
Feb 9, 2002, 1:38 AM
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Hey CP before you can have a home wall you need a home, you gotta get off the street man
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c_plante
Feb 9, 2002, 7:19 AM
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What is it with you guys? First its lay off the gin, then it's stop flirting with my girlfriends, now its get off the streets.
I can't please anyone!
Christian
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downshift
Feb 9, 2002, 8:14 PM
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Just to pull this topic back into focus. (C_P we understand your problems are real we can get you help and I think I can get you a big appliance box ) Is there anyone climbing in the University Gyms?
I know that Waterloo and Guelph both have small gyms built. Is there one at Mac or elsewhere?
Another question. How come when I do a search on Rock climbing on www.yellowpages.ca how come Ontario Centre For Martial Arts (461 North Service W, Oakville) comes up? Do these guy have a small wall or something?
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c_plante
Feb 11, 2002, 6:57 AM
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A big appliance box? For me?
I found a list of 14 rock climbing gyms on www.canada411.com
Some of them are far out there like the Barrie and Ajax gyms..
But a road trip is a road trip
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fiend
Feb 11, 2002, 7:56 AM
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Mac was going to build a climbing wall and it went up for a little while before it was ... err .. dissuaded from continuing ... by one of the other Hamilton Gyms
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c_plante
Feb 11, 2002, 8:37 PM
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QUOTE:
Mac was going to build a climbing wall and it went up for a little while before it was ... err .. dissuaded from continuing ... by one of the other Hamilton Gyms
_____________________________________________
Why doesn't that surprise me? Mac has always been populated by flyweights and pushovers. If the world boxing league ever opened up a bitch weight class they'd recruit from mac.
Christian
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lofty
Feb 15, 2002, 9:15 PM
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Don't forget about the gym in Windsor called Gibraltar. We Have over 20 rope stations including 7 that are leadable. Routes very from 5.6 to 5.12+. 2 bouldering caves and a new 65ft overhang. Anyone passin through windsor should drop in. (519)966-ROCK
3901 Huron Church Road. Just before the bridge.
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c_plante
Feb 24, 2002, 12:30 AM
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I climbed at Joe Rockheads this weekend and I have a few things that I want to say. First off let me say that I told my two climbing partners my opinions of Joe Rockheads at Jarek disagreed with almost everything I said and Downshift agreed with almost everything I said, so that being said, here goes.
1) Anchorage: Gravity uses a 2 anchor system, the first one at the edge of the wall, the second one a few feet back from the wall, so that when you get to the top of the wall youre not fighting the rope. At Joe Rockheads its a 1 anchor system, and as you get closer to the top that rope starts to chaff and it gets harder and harder to complete. I belayed a beginning climber, and she was doing fine until that rope started to dig into her back and she started to struggle from there. My point is that 1 anchor is evil.
2) Belay: I watched a new climber belay someone, and the instructor was standing right beside. The climber was done and the belayer took the rope, wrapped it around the gri gri, and then started to belay. In order to do this she had to do a whole lot of wrapping and pulling and it was all a big mess. This to me seemed dangerous. I then watched lead belayers to the same thing. Does this bother anyone else?
3) Safety: Several times I watched someone walk between the wall and me. Had my climber took an unscheduled fall and I had to catch him, I might swing toward the wall. All fine, except had that person been there at that exact moment I would have hit him/her. I watched this happen more then once, and it wasnt all new climbers either, several lead climbers were doing it too.
4) Community: The feeling of the gym was unwelcoming. While at Gravity I like giving and receiving beta and advice from other climbers. More experienced climbers are usually more than happy to share their thoughts with other climbers, whereas at Joe Rockheads there seemed to be a different attitude. I cant quite pin it down, but when I talked to someone about their hooligan kids I got cold stares from some of the regulars. I asked some people who were loitering around a climb if they were going to climb the route, rather than answer me the one guy snatched the rope and then said Yeah I am., and while I have certainly done the same thing, this guy did it in such an odd manner, that Im not certain if it was rude, or obstinate or what. Theres just a really weird feeling around the gym. If anyone has any opinions about this particular point Id like to hear it.
Well I guess thats it, does anyone think Im off base?
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xen_monkey
Feb 24, 2002, 8:10 PM
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CP, it seems all of your concerns (except for the first) are "soft " Concerns. Sure the people may not be as friendly, as their belaying custums may be foreign. Other that the fact that the two chains rope the are both against the wall instead of a seperate (which I admit can be a bitch if come off the wall close to the top) you haven't comented on what really matters. The hard qualities of the gym. Variety of climbs, difficulty, etc. I found their routes this time out to be much better then in the past (I' haven't been their in about 1 month and a half). Good variety, some really intersting moves. Like on the one that goes around the arete (SP?). I just wish I could have stayed longer, I would have but I was afraid of puking.
Sure the atmosphere of a gym does make a difference to the overall enjoyment, but you are there to climb so the proof is on the wall, everything else is just gravy. Sorry about mixxing food analogies.
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downshift
Feb 24, 2002, 11:08 PM
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c_p, xen,
I find every gym has it own little subculture to it. Sure we're all climbers but each gym has it little differences in atmosphere that attract different climbers. The Rockhead’s culture just seems to be noticeable different than the other gyms I've been to. It maybe a Toronto compared to the rest of Ontario thing. Maybe everyone bitter about having to pay to park. Or maybe it’s a more competitive gym. I don't know, can't seem to put my finger on it. Now I must agree Rockhead's top rope setup is a pain, more often then not it can put a damper on a climb.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2002-02-24 15:27 ]
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c_plante
Feb 25, 2002, 6:33 AM
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Xen_Monkey: I still don't like the route settings, I think that they have inconsistent ratings. The lead area was a chaotic mess with climbers leaving their gear everywhere. While I was belaying Downshift on the wall another climber was belaying right behind me, he was standing so far back from the wall that he was blocking two climbers from using a route. He told them to wait for him to finish up. But I guess that's not gravy eh?
Downshift: I totally agree with you on the culture thing, it's so weird. Maybe it is a Toronto thing. Although I suspect that it might be a mixture of ultra-competitiveness and Toronto atmosphere... I could be wrong. Any Rockheads diehards here?
Christian
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xen_monkey
Feb 25, 2002, 8:01 PM
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C_p, the routes are rated a little lighter than you're probobly used to. A Rockheads 5.10+/- is about on par with some of the harder 10.9's at gravity. I find the variety at that level pretty good at rockheads. Plus I find though they may be a little easy on their .10 climbs the change in difficulty and rating of the climbs is fairly even. Unlike at gravity where the difference between a 5.9 and and a 5.10- is a little crazy. The strength and technique difference required for the two are, in my opinion, dispreportionate to the grades. Though they're usually all bitchin' climbs.
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krillen
Feb 25, 2002, 9:32 PM
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XENM: I have to disagree on that. When I first went to Rockhead's it was graded softer than Gravity. It's not as bad now mind you. I find the grading at Gravity to be quite consistant though. When the route are set they are left blank for approx 2 weeks to get a general consesus from the members, THEN it's graded. I know of Several attempted 11-'s that got graded as 10+'s, or 9's that got graded 10's because of this. It's a nice feature. It keeps one person's biasd's (sp?) from influencing it.
Now don't get me wrong, I love trippign ot Rockhead's but for some people atmosphere is a lot. you can't climb your best if you don't feel at your best.
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c_plante
Feb 26, 2002, 8:54 AM
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Now don't get me wrong, I love trippign ot Rockhead's but for some people atmosphere is a lot. you can't climb your best if you don't feel at your best.
I'll have to agree with you on this one. I just didn't feel right that time at Rockheads. My first time there I loved it because it was me and 2 others... This time it was packed and it just felt "off". When Gravity is packed it just has a different feel to it.
Christian
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leevivlee
Mar 13, 2002, 6:06 AM
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Here's my two cents on three gyms in the downtown T.O. area
Joe Rockheads
http://www.joerockheads.com
NOTE TO ALL: The Rockhead's place in Markham closed down not too long ago, so now the only place to go is the location on Fraser. (I heard it was a **bleep** to find anyway) If you can't take the 'kids-on-candy-and-birthday-cake scene, I suggest you stay away from here on weekends. Opt for weekdays at night
- merits include: lots of space in between climbs...clear demarcation tape/lines to identify one climb's hold from another's
- They have an amazing lead wall. By far the best one of all three gyms. I love just sitting back and admiring people spiderman their way up the walls. I swear, some people look like they were monkeys in a past-life or something.
- For some reason I get the impression that the people at Rockhead's are a bit more 'edgy' Not in the bad sense, per se, but in the -hip- and -trendy- sense
- Sometimes they play acid jazz here. Acid jazz is great for climbing...it's kind of mesmerizing...puts you in a good climbing trance. (try the "thievery corporation" for great tunes)
- I've never had a problem w/the temperature here.
- Staff has always been pretty professional. Some are really friendly and helpful.
- ONLY prob with the anchoring-to-harness system is that if you are a smaller person...there's always that potential getting launched into space if you're with a substantially heavier climber
- nonetheless, if you are climbing w/someone around your weight range, the system is great b/c it allows for you to give them extra boosts when necessary
- I think they changed their wall-rating system lately. It seems like everything got a smidgen harder
-Sometimes I got the feeling that people gave cold looks at the gym. Some of the people who go are just focused on doing their thing. Less conducive place for small talk and friendly conversation although people will share tips if asked. For some reason people find others less approachable here. Don't ask me, maybe it is the feng shui of the place!!!
-Seems like the place spends a lot of time on making the place operate professionally...good emphasis on safety and from what I've seen, their intro courses are more comprehensive
-a great focus on footwork (pivoting the foot, etc)
Toronto Climbing Academy
http://www.climbingacademy.com
Location at Queen and Broadview
When I went the place was really short staffed. Other than that the people here seem pretty friendly...the demographics seems a bit different here for some reason.
-People are really friendly. Easy environment to chat others up. If you're going solo it is quite easy to find a buddy to work with.
- In terms of types of climbs, there seems to be a lot of variety here. HOWEVER the level of difficulty is not really broad. They all seem about the same.
- There is a sectioned off area for weight lifting and grip endurance training. There were many people taking advantage of this part of the gym
-fantastic bouldering
- There is one area that reminds me of a bat cave...it slopes down quite sharply and the routes are all designated with coloured electrical tape. Great for practicing heavy inclines. Has a great HUGE blue cushy safety mat for that *extra* assurance
- I've heard of a few stories about accidents here. Not due to the facility or staff...I think just general negligence and ignorant climbers. Since then I think they've kicked the safety up a notch, er at least I hope so!
- Storing gear was a bit iffy here. Most lockers are occupied by people who rent them out for the long haul so the locker-room is a bit of a zoo
- People were really great here. Giving each other tips and feedback...often unsolicited but quite welcome if you ask me.
Rock Oasis
Location at Bathurst and Front
http://www.rockoasis.com
I found a few different things interesting about Oasis.
- Climate control (what control?! I felt cold and clammy...sometimes my hands got numb because of the cold holds. Then again, I have low bld pressure, so I might be a little more sensitive to cold atmos.)
- The routes require a lot of hip action. at 5' I'm quite petite so I found myself doing a LOT of -turning-hip-into-wall action...but this turned out to be a good thing as I need to work on that aspect of my climbing
- I love the 60 feet climbs. Great measure of endurance! Not recommended for acrophobics out there!
- I don't like how the belaying system works - the system is designed so that people have to sit on the benches to belay (anchored to ground) If someone fell...ouch. Seems like there isn't a lot of room between each climb...which brings me to my next point -->
- CRAMPED. This place, when crowded, can be really frustrating. Waiting in line for a climb might take a while (esp considering they are 60' walls!) They don't allow for much space in between ropes, so it can potentially make someone feel clausterphobic (sp?) The area feels a wee uncomfortably enclosed.
- The types of climbs. Primarily beginner (around 5.5)...then it jumps to high 5.10s I wish there were more 'intermediate' level climbs
- Has a small workout and stretch area
- The walls were excruciatingly grating, esp when I missed a hold. **ouch** For some reason the texture of the walls is a bit on the abrasive side
[ This Message was edited by: leevivlee on 2002-03-12 22:08 ]
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c_plante
Mar 13, 2002, 8:02 AM
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leevivlee:
It looks like you've hit on the exact problem that I have with Joe Blockheads. I wish I knew what it was, do you have any thoughts? Welcome to the board btw!
Christian
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downshift
Mar 13, 2002, 12:06 PM
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leevivlee
I know how you feel about Oasis's climate control. I went over the summer on one of those hot sticky rain for ten minutes, sunny, rain for twenty mintues days. The temperature in the gym was about 10 degree above the outside on the 60 footer I almost puked from the heat. Drank lots of un-healthy Toronto water that day. As for it being cramped they don't really use their space very well, they need a space planner or something. If you want to see an efficient use of small space check out the Guelph Grotto. So you’re a Toronto climber ever checked out anything in the sticks (Grotto, Gravity, Higher Ground etc.) ?
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2002-03-13 07:37 ]
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spiderx
Mar 13, 2002, 8:31 PM
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Oasis is one of the best gyms I have ever been to. I don’t know why everyone is so hung up on comfort. The way I see it, if you want to climb rocks then you better get use to feeling uncomfortable. ‘It’s to hot’ or ‘It’s to cold’ or ‘the holds are dirty’ well for all you whiney people out there, get use to it. Don’t bitch about it, use it to your advantage. If you can climb something under the most uncomfortable situations, (in a gym) than you are one step closer to being a better climber outdoors. To quote an old movie” Life is pain, whoever tells you different is trying to sell you something.”
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jebroa
Mar 13, 2002, 11:04 PM
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Been there only twice, but Toronto Climbing Academy routes seem to be easy for the grade (from 5.8 to 10+/11-). What do you think?
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c_plante
Mar 13, 2002, 11:04 PM
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Dear Spiderx,
In my years of climbing (8 in a cave, 1 on the rocks) I have never felt truly uncomfortable. If anything I'll feel mildly annoyed, mostly because I hate getting stun by bees, or grabbing a big handfull of moss, or whatever. When I go indoors, I do so with the assumption that I won't be stun by bees, or that the holds will be covered in moss, or worse yet, prove to be some critters home. I think that everyone can agree to that statement, indoors should be free of the constraints and shortcomings of outdoors, right? So while we're on the topic of comfort, why not have a comfortable indoor gym? I've never been to Rock Oasis yet I've seen pictures and I've often wondered about the validity of having an anchor directly under a bench, so while I cannot address your statements directly, I can say that you're full of shit. Rock climbing (at least for me) has never been about pain, suffering or discomfort. It's been about a social experience, hanging out with my friends, trying out new things, challenging myself to try new things. If it hurt me (barring the usual muscle strain) then I wouldn't do it, and I seriously question what kind of climbing that you're up to if it hurts you so. Do you need a hug?
Christian
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downshift
Mar 14, 2002, 12:59 AM
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When I climb outdoors I've climbing in rain, heat, bugs, mud and none of this really bothers me. Being "comfortable" usually doesn’t cross my mind... In fact I do enjoy it ! But, I think asking for a comfortable gym isn't too much to ask for. All gyms have their shortcomings (poor climate control, cramped, whatever) and some people will hate a gym you love. That's life I guess.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2002-03-13 17:07 ]
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xen_monkey
Mar 14, 2002, 1:23 AM
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Christian, man you gotta learn to relax. To some extent I have to agree with spiderx. train in the worst condition that way when your performing at peak levels you'll perform better. I know people that used to train drunk or with the flue so that when they were well or sober they performed better. Though I don't recomend climbing drunk (this person was training for less lethal sport) the training while sick has some merrit. If you can nail that 5.11 at deaths door image how you'll perform when your running 100%.
BAck to the other gym realted posts. Leevivlee had one of the most complete and in depth post I've seen in a while on this thread. I think the kids on sugar issues is problem with most gyms on a saterday. You usually don't notice irt a Gravity as much because of all the open space, and they're pretty much following their belayer/handlers around the gym.
I do have to agree with leevivlee's coments on Rockheads, there rating system has gotten better over the last little bit. TCA I found to be a little dark and when I was there was wasn't a large amount of mid dificulty climbs (but I've only been there once last summer so what do I know). The big problem I have with Oasis' climbs is that I find them to be a little strength intensive but once agin that could be my fualt, I tend to go there when I'm out of practice so I'm probobly relying more on strength than technique.
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xen_monkey
Mar 14, 2002, 1:26 AM
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Maybe this should be its own thread, but what feature do you guys think would make the ideal climbing gym. A few freinds and I have been talking about starting a gym, but its going to have to wait until we can build up some capitol and pay off some of those student loans
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c_plante
Mar 14, 2002, 8:59 AM
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Xen_Monkey: Rather than relying on a narcotic or alcohol to put me in that state I usually climb until I'm too tired to continue, rest for a bit, and then try and squeeze out as much as I can. Climbing when I'm physically tired forces me to use more technique, of course I get sloppy I'll admit that, but I'm not "powering" my way up a climb.
As for relaxing, I'm wayyy too drunk to ease up on the weiner.
Christian
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spiderx
Mar 14, 2002, 5:01 PM
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C-Plant
I think you have proven my point for me, when you are outdoors you have no idea what to expect, that’s part of the fun, you climb with the elements and with the uncertainty of not knowing what’s around the corner. In a gym you don’t have any of that, you know that you are safe no matter what happens. Some people prefer that, I admit I’m a bit of a Rat-Gym myself. But anything like; humidity or a loose hold, that makes it seem slightly more like the real thing should be taken advantage of. It’s another question mark in the formula. Should I use this rock or go for another, how much pressure can I put on that foot before the rock gives, is my hand gong to slip when I transfer my weight over. I think it forces you to work on you technique, and makes you a better climber over all.
Spider
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c_plante
Mar 14, 2002, 10:41 PM
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Spiderx: I liked the unpredictability of the outdoors, I agree with you there. I just don't agree with you when you say that climbing is hell... or whatever you actually said.
Xen: Start a new thread! I'll post to it.
Christian
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downshift
Apr 5, 2002, 2:44 AM
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Well I finally went to Toronto Climbing Academy. I must say I was rather surprised. I’ve heard more good than bad about this gym but after being there I don’t quite understand the bad. It’s a nice clean gym with free parking in Toronto. What more could you ask for? The routes were decent with a good variety of levels. I like the climbing pinnacle and the attached bouldering area in the back. I would definately take another run out there when I’m in that area of Toronto.
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xen_monkey
Apr 5, 2002, 4:57 AM
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I've only been there once, but as I've said before I remember it being dark. But that could be just tricks o the mind
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downshift
Apr 6, 2002, 4:26 AM
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Actually it was fairly well lit... But, I think it may have been added since you were last there the lighting looked fairly new.
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spike_in_milton
Apr 18, 2002, 9:26 PM
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I was in Rock Oasis last night, and the place has seen some serious improvements...
The new walls are nearly finished, as is the very cool-looking new bouldering cave. The soft-padded floors are being replaced bit by bit with something firmer and easier to walk on (and probably safer for the ankles on a hard fall), and the new co-ed changeroom with showers has far more locker spaces available (although still feels somewhat more crowded than before).
Don't know who's grading the climbs though... there's no way in HELL that 5.8-marked climb I did was anywhere near a 5.8, not when you had to smear your way up six feet to get to the first hold off the ground
Spike/Adam
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krillen
Apr 18, 2002, 9:55 PM
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Well I hit the BoilerRoom in Kingston last week, and I have to say I came out with Mixed feelings.
The non-climbing facilities are nice they have work out equipment and a little lounge area.
The climbing area is cramped and dark, and there is no sport leading available. I did like their two bouldering areas, except for being dark though.
The gym has a 100 foot chimney with two routes in it, bt only one can be climbed at a time. The routes in here are basically straight up and if you get stuck, stemming is pretty easy.
Overall I wouldn't go back, it was alright once, and if you need somewhere to train over the winter, it'd do.
If you have questions, let me know.
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downshift
Apr 18, 2002, 11:32 PM
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Krillen:
How hard did the make the two chimney Climbs???
BTW all, Oasis is in the process of renovating, they've moved the change rooms upstairs and in the old change room spot there building a decent looking bouldering area.
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spiderx
Apr 22, 2002, 1:36 AM
Post #85 of 87
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Registered: Mar 13, 2002
Posts: 7
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Does anyone know what they are building at JoeRockheads in Toronto?
SpiderX
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downshift
Apr 22, 2002, 2:40 AM
Post #86 of 87
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Registered: Aug 1, 2001
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Apparently, the renovations at Rockheads is for a new bouldering area. Apparently according to the person behind the counter they plan to have it done shortly before the bouldering Comp.
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downshift
May 2, 2002, 3:05 AM
Post #87 of 87
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Registered: Aug 1, 2001
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So Rockhead's now has the new bouldering area open. There are no hold in the bouldering area yet but there is a new route that is now up which is a bit challenging.
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