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trekker17
Oct 16, 2003, 11:28 AM
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Just curious, which state does everyone think has the highest concentration of high quality of boulder problems (both discovered and undiscovered) and the smallest crowds? Thanks.
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clymber
Oct 16, 2003, 11:59 AM
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well sice some of the boulders you are looking for are undiscovered then we cant really answer that question can we...now once they are all found we will be able to help you out a bit more
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joens
Oct 16, 2003, 2:01 PM
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kansas is without a doubt the bouldering mecca .however most are in the undiscovered catagory.
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orangekyak
Oct 16, 2003, 2:08 PM
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In reply to: state does everyone think has the highest concentration of high quality of boulder problems
Rhode Island. Lincoln Woods, a couple small areas, and it's the size of a kansas county.
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jkarns
Oct 16, 2003, 2:35 PM
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I have to second Rhode Island, but it just has to do with how you worded your question, Dude. Problems divided by area, right? No state will be able to touch Rhode Island!!!
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cyberclimber
Oct 16, 2003, 2:38 PM
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I have to agree with joens, Kansas is definately the future of bouldering. Why there must be millions of undiscovered boulders in Kansas and there are no crowds, all they have to do is get rid of that pesky 20 ft of topsoil and we will have a new bouldering mecca.
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cgranite
Oct 17, 2003, 2:55 AM
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I can't imagine anything better than california. High quality, Quantity, and variety.
Camp 4
Happy's
Buttermilks
Sonora pass area
and thats not counting the southern and northern stuff.
Also, It's all differen't rock. :D
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bouldersdothebodygood
Oct 17, 2003, 3:09 AM
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UTAH Man just look at the book"A Bouldering Guide To Utah" that is alot of boulders. and new places still being developed. we also have a great range of rock style!!!!
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dynoguy
Oct 17, 2003, 4:55 AM
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If I was big into bouldering I wanted be spouting off about how great my state is for bouldering and how un-crowded it is. That kind of action will only help to make it more crowded. But then again I don't boulder so what do I know :P .
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pupjr
Oct 17, 2003, 4:57 AM
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Wait a minute Kansas? I drove through there for a road trip, granted i was only along the 70 the whole way, but i saw nothing but fields, and cows. Where are there boulders???
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sixter
Oct 17, 2003, 6:00 AM
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In reply to: I can't imagine anything better than california. High quality, Quantity, and variety. Camp 4 Happy's Buttermilks Sonora pass area and thats not counting the southern and northern stuff. Also, It's all differen't rock. :D
I have to agree with that. I live in SoCal, and often times I see hills just literally covered with tens of thousands of boulders. I'll have to take some pics of these hills for all to see. There is a particular house that I saw on the way up and back from Bishop on the 215, it has a fenced in yard with about a dozen or so boulders, and it looked like all of them could yield some quality problems. If that house ever goes up for sale, I want it. :lol: California, land of a billion boulders (and counting).
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scottcody
Oct 17, 2003, 7:55 AM
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In reply to: UTAH Man just look at the book"A Bouldering Guide To Utah" that is alot of boulders. and new places still being developed. we also have a great range of rock style!!!!
Ummm hate to burst your bubble... A boulder guide to Cali would be the size of a phone book.... and that is without pics
Cali is the place to be.. period
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coclimber26
Oct 17, 2003, 12:17 PM
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Colorado! If you drive a half hour from either boulder or co springs there are so many untapped bouldering areas..
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johnfromohio
Oct 17, 2003, 1:08 PM
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how about ohio for untapped boulder problems :roll:
its true, we got thousands upon thousand of boulder fields, just ask the local farmers that till over them all the time :oops: :cry:
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arrettinator
Oct 17, 2003, 2:11 PM
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PA :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Seriously though, PA has some great bouldering, but I wouldn't say it's a Mecca.
WV has some sweet bouldering, too.
Haven't gone anywhere else to really judge.
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yosemite_climber
Oct 17, 2003, 2:46 PM
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In reply to: I can't imagine anything better than california. High quality, Quantity, and variety. Camp 4 Happy's Buttermilks Sonora pass area and thats not counting the southern and northern stuff. Also, It's all differen't rock. :D
I totally agree. Here in San Diego we have
Mt. Woodson
McCain Valley
Valley of the Moon
Santee
In the desert of San Diego the unclimbed boulders outnumber the climbed ones by thousands. :D
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joegoesup
Oct 17, 2003, 5:03 PM
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California
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dynamicpanda
Oct 21, 2003, 2:34 PM
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yea, from everything i have read, and everything people say, California probably has the best bouldering of any other state. But, you have to remember that California is alot bigger than most states. If there was a state the size of California that took up alot of the appalachian chain there would probably be a similar amount of bouldering. Right up the mountain from me in Boone NC alone you can hit:
221 Circuit
Blowing Rock Boulders
Grandmother Mountain Boulders
Lost Cove Boulders
Plus tons of closed and secret areas
There are similar concentrations of boulders in towns all up and down the east coast. If one state covered as much land in the east as California does in the west we would definately have another candidate for the best bouldering state.
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scottcody
Oct 21, 2003, 3:16 PM
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In reply to: Here in San Diego we have Santee
No you didn't... I knw you didn't just include Santee on the same list that includes the Happy's and the Buttermilks.
That's almost like saying Mission Gorge and Yosemite belong on a list of destinations for Cali climbing. :)
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bluesky
Oct 21, 2003, 4:15 PM
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For Bouldering 'Density' I would say that Colorado Front Range is PACKED, though the amount of rock exposed in Utah is insane too - so I suspect the untapped there is very high also. California Desert is pretty packed too, but seems like the density of exposed rock seems higher in places like Colorado and Utah than California as a whole. A lot of areas that saw a lot of glaciation (I'm sure on the NW, but upper midwest and even NE?) seem to have less exposed rock and therefor lower density of bouldering potential.
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static_climber
Oct 21, 2003, 4:42 PM
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i dont know if it has the most or not but arizona has alot. just driving down the road there are boulders off to the side with v5's on some of them and i havent seen to many people out there climbing.
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rockfax
Oct 21, 2003, 4:56 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Here in San Diego we have Santee :lol: No you didn't... I knw you didn't just include Santee on the same list that includes the Happy's and the Buttermilks. That's almost like saying Mission Gorge and Yosemite belong on a list of destinations for Cali climbing. :)
Rainbow has to be the best bouldering in San Diego...World Class...except the climbers who own it won't let most climb there. How sad!
Mick
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elrojobdugs
Oct 21, 2003, 4:57 PM
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ohio duh... cant get any better than this
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maria
Oct 21, 2003, 5:04 PM
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Bouldering State? the state of confusion.
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akornylak
Oct 22, 2003, 1:48 PM
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th'aint much round these parts, though-ah did see sm' rawks up yonder hills day afore last but theys for rappellin mostly I reckon.
So dont y'all be comin round here lookin for no bouldering cause there aint none.
Ya hear?
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badphish
Oct 23, 2003, 1:22 AM
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doesn't matter how big cal is. Nor Cal alone encompasses
some of the best rock i've ever climbed on. Tahoe alone
could compete with many states for bouldering
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wyattearp
Nov 8, 2003, 7:18 PM
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Yo if anyone wants to check out the ultimate undiscovered meccas come down to Santa Fe new mexico. With boulders bigger than yosemite and bishop. As well as 3 if not more of the hardest lines I have ever seen. As well as an abundance of rock everywhere. New spots are constantly being discovered. You think you can pull V15 V16? Come down to Santa fe and will throw you on these lines. So where is Sharma and Nicole?
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riceplate
Nov 8, 2003, 7:34 PM
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In reply to: Yo if anyone wants to check out the ultimate undiscovered meccas come down to Santa Fe new mexico. With boulders bigger than yosemite and bishop. As well as 3 if not more of the hardest lines I have ever seen. As well as an abundance of rock everywhere. New spots are constantly being discovered. You think you can pull V15 V16? Come down to Santa fe and will throw you on these lines. So where is Sharma and Nicole?
The hardcore boulderers all know about the existence of NM bouldering and the strong boulderers who live there, but it is all so incognito, that you shouldn't expect any visitors until you publicize the areas. People aren't willing to drive 2 days to look for the yeti...
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sbclimber
Nov 8, 2003, 8:51 PM
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I wouldn't drive 2 days to look for anything but a long trad route.
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wyattearp
Nov 8, 2003, 9:29 PM
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You dont have to drive any 2 days to find good climbing in new Mexico. Look at the listings there are 4 places within the santa fe area/county! My boys have found another 3-4 spots with immense amounts of rock. Mini utah maybe, maybe better qwuite possible. At the grotto inSF there is an overhang over 150+ feet long with a width of 40 feet and top ots range from 20-25 feet. ITs all here, come take a road trip and see for yourself what New Mexico has to offer. Locals are more then willing to take out of towners to some nice spots as well as some fucking insane secret spots. Come check us out.
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timm1083
Nov 12, 2003, 4:09 PM
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i second to PA, i'm from PA and we have a large quality of boulders just because were such a huge state with lots of wooded areas. But as far as a mecca, you have to to WV or kentucky or kansas, but trust me PA can hang with the big boys
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fng
Nov 27, 2003, 7:47 AM
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I GOTTA GO WITH CAL. I LIVE IN CENTRAL CAL AND ALL THOUGH THERE ARE CROWDS IN THE WELL KNOWN AREAS(YOSEMITE, ETC.), THERE IS HIDDEN BOULDERING AREAS WITH NO CROWDS EVERYWHERE. I CAN DRIVE BETWEEN 30 MIN TO AN HOUR AND BE BOULDERING BY MYSELF ALL DAY. ITS THE SAME THROUGH OUT THE STATE FROM THE COAST TO THE EAST SIDE OF THE SIERRAS.
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roclimb
Nov 28, 2003, 4:27 PM
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I think Co and CA have a large concentration and one of the highest.
I would say PA takes the cake for the East. I have not found a 20 mile radius anywhere in PA that does not have some boulodering. Most of the state has Epic stuff and quality problems.
A lot of secret spots in the Wilkes Barre / Scranton area have better rock than the Gunk's! Or at least as good. NH has great stuff and VT and ME but a lot of the bouldering is shrouded in talus and thick pines. Central PA has dozens of fantastic sandstone areas all over with perfect landings and hueco ridden pockets all over the boulders. Western PA has huge boulders of similar quality all over the place also.
They don't call it the KeyStone state for nothing.
~Rob
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minjin
Dec 15, 2003, 8:15 PM
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in terms of raw quantity of problems, i'd have to say either california or colorado. colorado possesses the advantage of having loads of climbing essentially everywhere. however, i think it's hard to beat california for quality and the sheer number of classic areas.
however, utah seems to be on the up and up in terms of bouldering development. but any way you slice it, the best climbing is still west of the front range.
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riceplate
Dec 16, 2003, 4:25 AM
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In reply to: in terms of raw quantity of problems, i'd have to say either california or colorado. colorado possesses the advantage of having loads of climbing essentially everywhere. however, i think it's hard to beat california for quality and the sheer number of classic areas. however, utah seems to be on the up and up in terms of bouldering development. but any way you slice it, the best climbing is still west of the front range.
I live on the eastside of the sierra for a reason. I like to boulder and there is endless potential. But honestly, saying the best climbing is west of the front range isn't fair. Just talking bouldering, you have some amazing areas out east. Boone, HP40, Lincoln Woods, etc. They are world class. Smaller but just as good as hueco, bishop, LCC, Joes, or even fontainbleau.
When you factor in ALL climbing, then you've got even more competition. It's really hard to beat the red or the new as sport areas. Certainly nothing out west even compares for quantity (combined w/ quality). Sure, you've got charleston, the VRG, rifle, etc, but they are so tiny compared to the red.
There's good rock everywhere.
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ikellen
Dec 16, 2003, 9:11 PM
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California has a large multitude of boulders, but there is about a 4:1 or so ratio of climbers to boulders in CA.
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jeffstephan
Dec 16, 2003, 9:33 PM
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In reply to: I can't imagine anything better than california. High quality, Quantity, and variety. Camp 4 Happy's Buttermilks Sonora pass area and thats not counting the southern and northern stuff. Also, It's all differen't rock. :D
Absolutly. :!:
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victorjohn
Dec 16, 2003, 10:34 PM
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Yeah, Cali is pretty damn tough. Wish I knew more about other areas too (cant wait to make more road trips)
Within 3 hours of San Diego (where I live) there are:
Santee (cheesy but close and contains one of my favorite problems ever)
McCain (lotta FA material left here)
Culp
Woodsen
Tramway
Black Mountain
Joshua Tree (soooooo many problems)
Each of them has completely different rock. SoCal rock tends to be very rough and very technical climbing (footwork city).
It's awesome to see everyone so excited about their areas. I gotta get out to other states more. One day I hope I can return to the east coast and do all the climbing I never got to do (from Atlanta, discovered climbing once I moved to Cali).
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criscokid
Dec 16, 2003, 10:36 PM
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having lived in Colorado, California, and utah i can honestly say that cali. is #1 with colorado #2 and utah #3. although im sure that arizona and N.M. are up there also. has anyone actually explored for bouldering in alaska?
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smellyhippie
Dec 16, 2003, 10:44 PM
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California has the best bouldering, so much so that bouldering in Tahoe is mostly a locals only deal.
That having been said, I'd rather boulder in Utah more than anywhere else. There's something about Ibex and Big Bend that I love so much.
Nate
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roadguy
Dec 17, 2003, 2:41 AM
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[quote="rockfaxRainbow has to be the best bouldering in San Diego...World Class...except the climbers who own it won't let most climb there. How sad!
Mick
Well...if you owned Rainbow Mick, would you let anyone who wanted to climb there, do it" It's a nice socialist thought, but the practical as well as philisopical issues are easily understood. What do you think your insurance liability would be? The climbers who own it are not rich and all it would take is one lawsuit and they could lose the place. I find nothing wrong with climbers who own such a wonderful place trying and keep the hordes of matress people at bay. But then I am biased. I helped Kevin, Mike and Dave et al. cut the trails thru that double overhead brush, discover the boulders and worked the problems. Whats wrong with having your own private idaho eh Mick?
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bigdan
Dec 17, 2003, 3:42 AM
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In reply to: Well...if you owned Rainbow Mick, would you let anyone who wanted to climb there, do it" It's a nice socialist thought...
I don't think you understand socialism very well.
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sidepull
Dec 17, 2003, 4:39 AM
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shouldn't john gill just answer this and we'll accept his word?
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minjin
Dec 19, 2003, 10:17 PM
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i actually went to school out east for four years, and although i must admit there are some quality problems out there, it seemed like you could lump all the good problems (or even all the problems. period.) i saw in new england into one area the size of bishop. i haven't gotten down south, but i'm sure there's quality rock down there too. but so far, the rockies and west still can't be beat.
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ryanhurl
Dec 19, 2003, 10:30 PM
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I'd say UT or CA. Utah is cool because there's different rock types, but the downside is some of the areas are spread out and pretty hot during the summer (see Joe's Valley first week of June 03). Cal has a lot of good areas, different rock structures, and more of a "scene" (for lack of a better word). Utah is where you'd wanna go if you wanna be with just your friends. Cal you'll be meeting lots of new folks.
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flyinghatchet
Dec 20, 2003, 4:05 AM
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minnesota. once you go basalt, you never go back.
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curt
Dec 20, 2003, 4:09 AM
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In reply to: minnesota. once you go basalt, you never go back.
Curt
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zachallen
Dec 20, 2003, 6:57 PM
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WTF! kansas is not a f*cking mecca state. Every1 is forgeting about texas which has HUECO TANKS which is a mecca and just about all the foreigners cept the french declared it as the worlds best bouldering and there are numerous bouldering cliffbans throughout texas although the only good stuff in texas is HUECO TANKS!
Kansas can kiss my ASS!
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bradmc
Dec 22, 2003, 4:32 AM
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the deep south is mostly choss covered in poison ivy with copperheads slinking underneath. Chiggers, ticks, scorpions and humidity and hot temps from hell. Oh yeah, did i mention the cambodia like vegetation you have to hack through?
If you can make it past Bubba and his moonshine still you may be able to eak out a problem or two.
I vote for CA and CO any day.
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copperhead
Dec 22, 2003, 6:29 AM
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Definitely not sober.
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