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baskara
Nov 2, 2003, 9:58 AM
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when i leading trad on two ropes to pass a big roof or to traverse...its difficult for second man to belaying leader....so what tips to belay leader with two ropes easilly....thanks b-4.
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teddy
Nov 2, 2003, 10:44 AM
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omg dude, sentence structure... id try to answer if i could understand it
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geezergecko
Nov 2, 2003, 3:10 PM
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Here's the technique that I use. The brake hand always stays around both ropes and pulls both ropes together to take in slack. The lead hand pulls just one or both ropes to let out slack. To take in a single rope you first feed out the other rope with the lead hand and then pull both ropes back in with the brake hand. The idea is that it's the lead hand's job to equalize the ropes and the brake hand's job to be the brake hand (duh!). If there is a "better way" (tm) then I await a Brit or Gunks tradmeister to correct me.
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stevematthys
Nov 4, 2003, 6:42 AM
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to belay two ropes you will need 2 bd atc's. if you are belaying both ropes in one atc and the climber needs to rest on one line and have slack in the other, how are you going to do this with one atc? basically belay the way that geezergecko said but with 2 atc's
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maculated
Nov 4, 2003, 6:47 AM
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In reply to: to belay two ropes you will need 2 bd atc's. if you are belaying both ropes in one atc and the climber needs to rest on one line and have slack in the other, how are you going to do this with one atc? basically belay the way that geezergecko said but with 2 atc's
Steve-o, I am pretty sure you don't know what you're talking about here. 2 atc's? Why the heck do you think there are two holes in your ATC plate anyway? Double rope climbing, dat's why, not just for rappels. (did I spell that right? It's late)
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addiroids
Nov 4, 2003, 6:55 AM
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In reply to: to belay two ropes you will need 2 bd atc's. if you are belaying both ropes in one atc and the climber needs to rest on one line and have slack in the other, how are you going to do this with one atc? basically belay the way that geezergecko said but with 2 atc's
What could you possibly get done while hanging on one rope? If it is to set up a rap, the belayer should daisy off. Geez, if you do need to rest, daisy in, and let the belayer have a break from holding your hangdogging-a$$. No one belays with 2 ATC's. That's craziness.
Belaying with two ropes is just as described. You just let the rope slide through your break hand and let your lead hand do the figuring out which one to pull out.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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telemarkist
Nov 4, 2003, 6:58 AM
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two ropes is tough on the belayer and is only a good idea if you have a very good belayer it took awhile for me and my partner to get it down, only then did it save me drag. it takes practice to do it well.
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nagatana
Nov 4, 2003, 7:12 AM
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teddy, I doubt English is his first language.
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telemarkist
Nov 4, 2003, 7:19 AM
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two atc's is ludicris, making it way harder than it already is
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geezergecko
Nov 4, 2003, 5:38 PM
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Two ATCs could make it interesting for a four rope technique for the insatiably paranoid. :wink:
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cfnubbler
Nov 4, 2003, 5:49 PM
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Steve-
For the love of god, please tell me this is a troll. Please tell me you're not seriously offering this as advice...
Oh, please....
Nubbler
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jt512
Nov 4, 2003, 5:51 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: to belay two ropes you will need 2 bd atc's. if you are belaying both ropes in one atc and the climber needs to rest on one line and have slack in the other, how are you going to do this with one atc? basically belay the way that geezergecko said but with 2 atc's Steve-o, I am pretty sure you don't know what you're talking about here.
Kristin, you mean you haven't killfiled this tool yet?
-Jay
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davidji
Nov 4, 2003, 5:52 PM
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In reply to: Two ATCs could make it interesting for a four rope technique for the insatiably paranoid. :wink: |
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the_pirate
Nov 4, 2003, 6:13 PM
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I think we can all agree that Steve is a moron.
That said.....
The most crucial aspect of belaying two ropes is keeping your piles separate and free of tangles. Quite often easier said than done. From what I understand of Geezer's post, that's the way to go. I like to keep one finger between the ropes in my brake fist. That way I can grip one rope more than the other when I need to.
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davidji
Nov 4, 2003, 6:34 PM
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In reply to: The most crucial aspect of belaying two ropes is keeping your piles separate |
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cracklover
Nov 4, 2003, 6:39 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: The most crucial aspect of belaying two ropes is keeping your piles separate One of the coolest thing about climbing with doubles or twins is that you can stack the ropes together, since they come up to the belay together and leave it together.
GO
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davidji
Nov 4, 2003, 6:40 PM
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In reply to: when i leading trad on two ropes to pass a big roof or to traverse...its difficult for second man to belaying leader....so what tips to belaying leader with two ropes easilly....thanks b-4. |
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forbin
Nov 4, 2003, 6:46 PM
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In reply to: omg dude, sentence structure... id try to answer if i could understand it
Teddy, how's your Balinese? Come to think of it, if you're from Oz you're probably in no position to assault someone else's grasp of the Queen's English.
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davidji
Nov 4, 2003, 6:52 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: One of the coolest thing about climbing with doubles or twins is that you can stack the ropes together, since they come up to the belay together and leave it together. ...If you're alternating leads. |
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mustclimb69
Nov 4, 2003, 7:41 PM
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Steve is a MORON!!!
I am beginning to think that you need a license to climb
I wouldnt let you buy gear!
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climbsomething
Nov 4, 2003, 8:07 PM
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In reply to: to belay two ropes you will need 2 bd atc's. if you are belaying both ropes in one atc and the climber needs to rest on one line and have slack in the other, how are you going to do this with one atc? basically belay the way that geezergecko said but with 2 atc's
ToolRating++4stars
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maculated
Nov 4, 2003, 8:48 PM
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Maculated kill files no one. How else would i get to enjoy the posts of the ignorant?
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ksolem
Nov 5, 2003, 1:49 AM
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One advantage to the double rope method is that you can avoid the added fall introduced when you pull up a bunch of slack to clip. For this purpose it's extra nice on a serious or hard pitch to have two belayers. One gives you slack while the other protects your fall. I've used this method on some hard one pitch routes and it's really nice. Of course you've got two folks to buy beers for later...
Yeah, I know. A really skilled belayer can do the same thing. But 2 is deluxe.
8)
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enanubis
Nov 5, 2003, 2:32 AM
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In reply to: Steve is a MORON!!! I am beginning to think that you need a license to climb I wouldnt let you buy gear!
Bah, its natural selection.
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jt512
Nov 5, 2003, 5:24 AM
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In reply to: Maculated kill files no one. How else would i get to enjoy the posts of the ignorant?
Basically, I concur with that philosophy. I only have 3 users in my killfile. Morons have entertainment value. Until now, though, stevematthys has not even had entertainment value, as he has restricted his posts to saying "I agree," as if we should care. It figures that the first time he attempts to say something substantive, he's wrong. If he continues these attempts, I may have to de-killfile him so that I can tell him, that rock climbing is dangerous and that, if he doesn't know what the fuck he is talking about, then he should STFU and let people who actually know something answer the question, but, of course, I'd have to de-killfile him to tell him that.
-Jay
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braveheart
Nov 5, 2003, 7:27 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Two ATCs could make it interesting for a four rope technique for the insatiably paranoid. :wink: That's pretty good, but Jason L. came up with a way to carry even more gear.
Lol
That is a pain in the butt limitation of the GriGri, seems funny that you have to at least have another belay device if you want to rap off double ropes. To use them for prussiks is too funny!
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leon0tron
Nov 5, 2003, 11:21 AM
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When belaying with double ropes I usually have my middle finger on the brake hand inbetween the ropes so I can grasp either ropes individually to take in slack. Hope that makes sense
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davidji
Nov 5, 2003, 5:40 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: when i leading trad on two ropes to pass a big roof or to traverse...its difficult for second man to belaying leader....so what tips to belaying leader with two ropes easilly....thanks b-4. It shouldn't be difficult, although it might feel awkward at first. Does this help? |
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brutusofwyde
Nov 5, 2003, 8:06 PM
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In reply to: when i leading trad on two ropes to pass a big roof or to traverse...its difficult for second man to belaying leader....so what tips to belaying leader with two ropes easilly....thanks b-4.
It good for is to the second the leader belay a signal device width are two ropes made it for. Example four the plaquette or ATC or Reverso use the leader to the roof clip rope at one many go. Then the rope/s if against edged belayed taught, other than tension go straight to naught.
Once at a thyme loosed the from above, so top rope have the second for but practice it makes. drag rope go.
thought takes it, alternating not when necessarily roof traversing and, intuit, not what expect you it there to be there trad and ditional rope technique double.
in advacnes clips plan, and it practices, practices, practices.
Help this hopes!
Tubrus
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rockmx
Nov 5, 2003, 9:09 PM
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In reply to: Dingus - man I thought you always carry your grigri and a backup grigri on those trad climbs? You can rap down double ropes if you bring 2... then if you bring another 2, you can use them for backups instead of prussics. I ussually bring 8 grigris, in case my partner forgets his set.
:shock: X 1,000,000
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teddy
Nov 7, 2003, 9:57 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: omg dude, sentence structure... id try to answer if i could understand it Teddy, how's your Balinese? Come to think of it, if you're from Oz you're probably in no position to assault someone else's grasp of the Queen's English. |
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darkside
Nov 7, 2003, 2:22 PM
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:lol: :lol: OMFG theres an abundance of :troll: 's and morons in this thread. There's also some good advice but good luck picking it out. Besides my singles, I own a set of 8.5's and a set of 8.1's so I know half rope technique. This thread is a joke though so if anyone needs advice, PM me. Peace.
/walks away shaking head/ :roll:
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billcoe_
Nov 21, 2003, 3:23 AM
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Brutus of White answered for us all. Lock the thread. Way funny BW.
BTW: how well does the Tre work for double ropes?
Anybody have any actual experience.
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