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climbhigh2005


Feb 7, 2004, 8:22 PM
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Kings Bluff
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Give me info... I want to know all about it... What is the climbing like? Is there good camping? Does it cost? I am planning a trip there as soon as it warms up... thanks!


dirtineye


Feb 7, 2004, 8:41 PM
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Re: Kings Bluff [In reply to]
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Sweetie... did you look on the seclimber.org site? We do own kings bluff you know...


climbhigh2005


Feb 8, 2004, 1:39 PM
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ya i looked! 8)


jen_c


Feb 9, 2004, 4:35 PM
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There's no camping available at King's Bluff but there are plenty of hotels in Clarksville. There is also a guide book available for the area.
See this link for more info:
http://www.seclimbers.org/...ee/kings-bluff.shtml


andy_lemon


Feb 9, 2004, 5:01 PM
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There is a nice campground right off of exit 1. Forget the name, during the summer they have a swimming pool. I think it will run around $15 per night. I would suggest that since your in the area you get you a nice hotel located downtown Nashville and do a bit of bar hoping... but that is just what I like.

The climbing is like LIMESTONE. When I was introduced to the area early in the summer of 03' my hands were brutely raped as I have never touched limestone before. It hurt and I went threw tape like toilet paper. The easier routes (5.7 and down) have very large jugs, nice jugs... but once you hit the 5.8 mark it is crimp fest on sharp rock. Learning to use the natural friction of limestone as feet smears was very hard... I'm still learning that.


gregtrammell


Feb 9, 2004, 6:03 PM
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Bar hoping is a great idea. However, climbhigh2005 is not old enough to bar hope yet. As for the climbing, it is suppose to be ok.


andy_lemon


Feb 9, 2004, 6:26 PM
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I really enjoy the climbing there... however, most of the routes come up short unless you are in the 5.11 range. Several long 10's too. There is a nice sport multipitch there, that I would suggest to anyone.


shank


Feb 9, 2004, 10:37 PM
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There is a few camping spots there but no fires are allowed, don't want to draw attention, and the ground is probably stubby due to no one ever camping there.

The routes are pretty well all good route. The routes database on here is a good place to get Ideas as to difficulty, But there are routes there from 5.4 up to 5.12d, and a 5.13d. Most are sport, quite a few mixed, and some trad.

Andy, How would you know to recomend the two pitch route? You ever climbed the second pitch? :lol:


okinawatricam


Feb 9, 2004, 10:41 PM
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What grades are you looking for?

Do you place gear?



I know the area fairly well, I can give you more specific answers if you want.


andy_lemon


Feb 9, 2004, 10:43 PM
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In reply to:
Andy, How would you know to recomend the two pitch route? You ever climbed the second pitch? :lol:

Hey man, cut a guy some slack... you know I've done the first pitch several times and have been to the top where the route tops out. Anything with exposure that bueatiful in the midwest is worth suggesting. Climbhigh2005, if you get a chance do the route.


okinawatricam


Feb 9, 2004, 10:47 PM
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That two pitch route can be done as one pitch very easily.


shank


Feb 9, 2004, 10:49 PM
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I have done it both ways and it is excellent. You should come down and do it sometime Andy.

Just bustin your chops. :lol:


okinawatricam


Feb 9, 2004, 10:52 PM
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Andy, I be there in May, any route you want to do I'll be glad to do with you.


okinawatricam


Feb 9, 2004, 11:03 PM
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Re: Routes Must do [In reply to]
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Staring from the Quietzone and moving toward Navigator

Eye of the Vulture 11b
elevator Shoes 10a
Break from the heat 9
integrety 10
Too Good To be True 10a/b
Naming the Guidebook 10d
Chimney Sweep 5
Captain Hook 5.6
Egeneering a Goat rope 5.7
Grin and Bare It 10b
Mustang Sally 10d
To Heavy to Fly 11
Born on the Fourth of July 8 or 9
Wheat Thin
Three Wishes 13
Prelude 11d/12a
More later


shank


Feb 9, 2004, 11:12 PM
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If the weather hold to what they are calling for I'll be there Saturday if anyone want to climb.


andy_lemon


Feb 9, 2004, 11:16 PM
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Steven.. you climbing on Valentines day? Better run that one by the wife. LMAO :shock:

Eman, I can't wait for you to come down bro. I will do my best to make the trip.


shank


Feb 9, 2004, 11:18 PM
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Is that Saturday? Oh well. Like I said, if the weather holds :lol:


climbhigh2005


Feb 9, 2004, 11:33 PM
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Hey.. thanks for the info! We wpuld probably be sport climbing unless we go with someone and learn trad... We climb in the 10s, and Simon in the low 11s... this weekend would be a cool trip if the weather is good...


climbhigh2005


Feb 9, 2004, 11:40 PM
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btw I really wanna climb multi pitch, so that would be awesome!


dwise


Feb 10, 2004, 12:20 AM
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Hey Steve, is the lock still on the gate? If so, you may want to PM the combo to Melissa.
Melissa, If the weather is good, you'll undoubtedly run into Shank and the rest of the crew with plenty of guidebooks to go around. The climbing is muy fun. If you've never been on limestone before, you're in for a treat. Enjoy!


climbhigh2005


Feb 10, 2004, 1:49 AM
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It doesnt look like I'm gonna be able to mae it this weekend... I've promised some friends I would go see a show with them, and then Sunday I need to spend time with my family... maybe another weekend... I'll let ya'll know when I'll be there! thanks again for everything!


the_alpine


Feb 10, 2004, 2:04 AM
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Kings Bluff is definitely not a destination area, but its a fun place to stretch out the legs if you're driving by.


andy_lemon


Feb 10, 2004, 2:35 AM
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I guess if you lived in Florida it wouldn't be a destination area... but for someone like me who lives 2 hours away, the 300+ sport routes at the crag will do.

climbhigh: there isn't much trad at the bluff. There are a few mixed routes that are pretty cool but I think some of the locals added some bolts to those routes so they would see more traffic and be a bit safer. Placing gear in limestone is exactly the greatest to learn on. But there are a few easier trad routes that I know of in the 5.6 range.


shank


Feb 10, 2004, 2:45 PM
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Actually around 200 routes. And yes the lock is still on the gate, thanks Dave. Melissa, I don't have the combo right now, but I'll send you a pm with it this afternoon. I alway get the first two numbers mixed up, so I had to write it down and don't have it on me right now.

Eman, heard alot about you, from Andy, Tommye, as well as others, looking forward to meeting you someday.

Dave, one of these day i'll make it to HCR, or Potrero, Or maybe even Hueco, What do you think of that?

Andy, My offer still stands. Anytime you want to climb, just let me know.

Alpine, as to King's being a destination spot, I guess it would be if you wanted to climb at all the areas in the south east huh? or do all the 13b's in the country or climb all the 5.6 mixed route, etc... So you see it all depends on what one is looking for. And if that is fun on the riverbank then King's is a destination spot.

Hope no one gets mad at me this time. :( :lol:


the_alpine


Feb 10, 2004, 3:37 PM
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Dam, 200 + routes!? Me and my partner must not have walked the river enough. I didn't realize the scope was so large. We were there about 2 years ago. The river was cool, but the gobs of home made hangers left something to be desired.


andy_lemon


Feb 10, 2004, 3:53 PM
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In reply to:
Dam, 200 + routes!? Me and my partner must not have walked the river enough. I didn't realize the scope was so large. We were there about 2 years ago. The river was cool, but the gobs of home made hangers left something to be desired.

Alot has been done in the 2 years since you've been here. The SCC owns the land now and there have been several bolts replaced and added to routes. Not to say that some home made hangers don't still exsist but alot have been removed.

Shank: I'm probably going to be busy this Saturday, I don't want to get into the kind of trouble your asking to with your wife. :wink: I'm all tied up until spring break because of work and stupid stuff on the weekends.


shank


Feb 10, 2004, 3:59 PM
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Andy, I'm not married. 8)

Alpine, In the newest edition of the guide there were I think 170 route.

And I agree I thinkk something more needs to be done about those old hanger, and some of the anchors need fixin up. So if you go drop in a donation at the box. :lol:


andy_lemon


Feb 10, 2004, 4:05 PM
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In reply to:
Andy, I'm not married. 8)

Ha Ha, that's not what your brother-in-law says. :lol:


shank


Feb 10, 2004, 8:27 PM
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Yeah, but if you climb with us enough you would know he is full of crap more times than not. :lol:


andy_lemon


Feb 10, 2004, 8:32 PM
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:lol:


climbhigh2005


Feb 10, 2004, 9:37 PM
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awesome... I cant wait to plan a trip up there!


okinawatricam


Feb 10, 2004, 11:01 PM
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In reply to:
Alot has been done in the 2 years since you've been here. The SCC owns the land now and there have been several bolts replaced and added to routes. Not to say that some home made hangers don't still exsist but alot have been removed.


Those homemade hangers are pretty good, but I am glad to hear they are being replaced. Kings Bluff is a hard area to maintain, so when you see a problem, fix it.

Let's keep in mind that the Scc doesn't own the whole thing, they own about half. Keeping the area in prestine shape and the level of noise down, (Especially the Quiet Zone and Navigator Wall) will insure that those owners will allow future climbers the oportunity to enjoy Clarksville climbing Jewel.


Shank: I am not sure what you heard about me, but I am sure it was ALL LIES
You guys keep Crimping the little Crimpers.


shank


Feb 11, 2004, 3:20 PM
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Still looking good for Saturday. :D


okinawatricam


Feb 12, 2004, 4:09 AM
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Looks like I will be there at the end of July for a few days. Shank, maybe we'll get to climb.

I look foward to the Beach


shank


Feb 12, 2004, 2:41 PM
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I am looking forward to the Beach also, unfortunatly it may be a few years before I am good enough to climb any of those route. :lol:


okinawatricam


Feb 16, 2004, 6:20 AM
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Give yopurself more credit. It's true the the routes on the beach are hard, but they are attainable with the right mental attitude


shank


Feb 16, 2004, 2:33 PM
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I know. That and I need to work on endurence. those routes are longer than most I climb.


climbhigh2005


Feb 16, 2004, 3:37 PM
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Man this sucks guys! I have 10 inches of snow and cant get down my driveway.... I REALLY wanna go climbing!! I hope you guys had (have) fun!


okinawatricam


Feb 16, 2004, 10:56 PM
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A good way for you to work on endurance at the bluff is to run laps on some of the routes.

If you go to High Water wall, any of those routes are good for that purpose.

What is the hardest route you have done confortablely at the bluff? I can go from there with some advice.


shank


Feb 16, 2004, 11:02 PM
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I redpointed LAG 5.9 on my second time on it which was a few months after my first time, when I didn't even make the first bolt. I don't know about comfortable though.My hardest redpoint was short and sporty 10c.
I am fairly comfortable on most of the eights there. Comfortable meaning no pain and little pump.


chops


Feb 16, 2004, 11:16 PM
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Shank,
You just had to mention that route! I wonder who put that one up??? Maybe that guy from Japan can provide us with an answer. Word around the campfire is someone spent six whole months "cleaning" it before solid (by the bluff standards) rock could be found. Just giving you a hard time Eman, .....hope all is well.

Looking foward to climbing with you soon steve, shooting for a mid-march return.

Melissa,

So the plateau got that much snow, that's wild. Got some great memories of that place while at tech.....


Steve.


shank


Feb 16, 2004, 11:50 PM
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Oh yeah. That is his route isn't it. :lol:


climbhigh2005


Feb 16, 2004, 11:57 PM
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In reply to:
Melissa,

So the plateau got that much snow, that's wild. Got some great memories of that place while at tech.....


Steve.

yeah its crazy.. I cant stand it... I'm gonna try to make it up to the obed tomarrow... please please please let me go climbing!! btw, have we ever talked before? I dont' really remeber, but I dunno..


okinawatricam


Feb 17, 2004, 2:47 AM
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Six month is alittle bit of a strech. It actually took me six monbths to get motivated enough to clean it. I spent about three days (couple of hours at a time) cleaning it, I think it was worth the effort. When I left there, it was one of the local favorites. Sounds like someone was researching me, I feel priviledged.

If you redpointed LAG (AKA, let's see who knows this), you should work on Hardache on High Water wall. The moves are more power, but once you do the route it is straight foward. Once you have done it a couple of times, you can use it for endurence.

Another good 9 for laps is Break from the HEat in the Quiet Zone, just keep the noise down so the Judge stays Happy.

By the way, the Judge sent me a letter asking me if people still climbed on his property, so I guess climbers are doing a good job at keeping the noise down. Keep it up.


chops


Feb 17, 2004, 2:31 PM
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In reply to:
Sounds like someone was researching me, I feel priviledged.

Now that's an Eman statement!
I think people are still pulling off holds on L.A.G., and tripping over all the rock you popped off while "cleaning" it.

Don't know if I would want to run laps on heartache,..its a great route but better to stick to routes a grade lower than what you're redpointing (or around onsight grade) when working on endurance.


shank


Feb 17, 2004, 3:04 PM
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L.A.G (AKA Layback And Go)?

I could run laps on LAG. I'll take a look at the other route and do them too.

I'll just do em all one of these days.


okinawatricam


Feb 17, 2004, 10:59 PM
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In reply to:
L.A.G (AKA Layback And Go)?
No try again.

An eman statement, I am not sure what that means.

Seems to me that running laps on something to easy defeats the purpose of running laps. HeartAche is easier (technically) than LAG, once you have climbed it once or twice, the route is actually quite easy and idea for running laps near that grade.

LAG wouldn't be so great for lap running because of the small holds before the flake. Sounds like injury potiential to me.

Steve are you Shank. How life as an Engineer?


shank


Feb 17, 2004, 11:06 PM
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I am Steve, but no engineer. Chops is also Steve.


dwise


Feb 18, 2004, 12:54 AM
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Heartache is a stellar route, but what's up with that anchor?? The little looptiloop of chain?

I vote for running laps on all the Bluff routes, they're short enough. Also, work on down climbing them to work endurance.


okinawatricam


Feb 18, 2004, 12:56 AM
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Good call Dave, down climbing is a great way to get a work out at the bluff or any other crag for that matter. It can also be useful on other routes in other areas.


chops


Feb 18, 2004, 5:09 PM
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In reply to:
Seems to me that running laps on something to easy defeats the purpose of running laps. HeartAche is easier (technically) than LAG, once you have climbed it once or twice, the route is actually quite easy and idea for running laps near that grade.

Just from personal experience, I've seen people that were able to redpoint 9s at the bluff, but have problems redpointing long 8s at places like the obede. Unlike LAG, most of the 9's at the bluff have good (or bad depending on how you look at it) rests and only involve one or two moves at its grade. IMHO, it would be better run laps on sustained 8's at the bluff and develop a good baseline for endurance. That way you can feel confident on you're ablities when making trips to the obede or the red.

Yeah, its me Eman, kept trying antagonize you but you didn't bite. Everything is great, moved back to clarksvegas to be closer to the families. Don't know if you heard but the bluff has seen a resurge in route development. There have some good ones too, typical bluff climbing. You'll have plenty of new lines to taste when you make it back.


okinawatricam


Feb 18, 2004, 10:26 PM
Post #52 of 65 (4608 views)
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I was there last year, got to play on some oif the new stuff, it was good. I don't remember to many rest on Doyle's new route on the beach, but I could be wrong.

I am not sure when I'll get there again. I might be there for two days in May, I may not. JOhn and I are headed to the Valley for an ElCap route, than my wife and I are driving from Seatle to New Hampshirehitting the prime spot along the way.

I get regular update about what happens at the bluff from some locals. I guess that's one advantage of owning a third of it.

What are you doing in Clarks now? Finish school?

Me I'm bolting four or five new routes a weeks. During the last month mostly two pitch stuff: with no rest.


andy_lemon


Feb 19, 2004, 5:29 AM
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In reply to:
you should work on Hardache on High Water wall.

Man, there is this super secret crimp in the middle of that route. I sware. The time I was on that thing everyone was like "you got to hit that crimp, to your left" and I was like "what crimp, where?" :lol:


okinawatricam


Feb 19, 2004, 6:21 AM
Post #54 of 65 (4608 views)
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GREAT NOW you gave the secret away. It's not there it's not there!


chops


Feb 19, 2004, 7:07 PM
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Graduated this pasted May and got a job with a local civil firm here in town. Haven't been able to climb at all due to an ACL reconstruction on the left knee. Screwed the damn thing while bouldering back in late April....been rehabbing ever since. Great to hear all is well, sure I'll catch you when you're down visiting.

Heartache is definitely one of those routes that will screw you if you get out of sequence...


okinawatricam


Feb 19, 2004, 10:38 PM
Post #56 of 65 (4608 views)
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OH, please. I watched a one armed climbe do Hearth Ache


shank


Feb 19, 2004, 10:39 PM
Post #57 of 65 (4608 views)
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I might could do it then :lol:


chops


Feb 19, 2004, 11:03 PM
Post #58 of 65 (4608 views)
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In reply to:
OH, please. I watched a one armed climbe do Hearth Ache

Nothing but dynos huh????Impressive redpoint for sure.

Give me a break Eman,...I've seen seasoned climbers get out of sequence on that route and have a hard time with it. To say that Heartache isn't sequence dependent is a load of horsesh_t. Just read your previous response about the crimper........


okinawatricam


Feb 20, 2004, 1:24 AM
Post #59 of 65 (4608 views)
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Next thng I'll hear is that ELevator hoes is Sequensial. I think people rely to much on the their arms and not enough on their Foot work. Most of the holds on HEarth Hache you can match hands/feet on. How sequencial can it be.

Seems to me that some climbers get nervous on that route and forget how to climb. It was Shanes first lead, and he had never climb it prior either.


guangzhou


Jan 30, 2005, 3:22 AM
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I see noone has managed to figure out what "LAG" stands for after all this time.

Eman


shank


Jan 30, 2005, 6:31 PM
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Lee Ann Somthing.

I believe it was a girlfriend of yours' initials wasn't it?

8^)

Steve


climbhigh2005


Feb 11, 2005, 11:09 PM
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Hey.. I'm glad to see this post is still circulating and I STILL haven't been to Kings Bluff... haha... I think I'm going to go for a day at the biggening of my spring break trip to the red... I will be in nashville monday night, so I may climb that sunday and monday, then head to the red... maybe we can meet up... peace
Melissa


jackhammer


Feb 13, 2005, 4:19 AM
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Registered: Dec 22, 2004
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My partner and I will be at the Bluff on Sunday afternoon and the whole day on Monday. If anyone is looking for a group to climb with, PM me or just leave a message at the tone. Look for the Jetta and ask for the Canadian guy.


jackhammer


Feb 14, 2005, 1:44 PM
Post #64 of 65 (4608 views)
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Kimg's Bluff today.


guangzhou


Jul 16, 2011, 4:56 AM
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The guidebook on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/...310792148&sr=8-2


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