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caughtinside
Jul 20, 2004, 5:09 PM
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In an effort to help those out there that want the coolest shoes, I've done some research to see what the coolest climbers are wearing.
You see, I don't read the mags, so I don't know what sharma is sporting on his feet these days. But the hard pulling rats at the gym sure do! And here's what I've learned.
Anasazi velcro: Used to be THE shoe, right around 2001 or so when Realization was sent. All the kids who are constantly at the gym had them. Still cool, but losing ground.
Sportiva Katanas: These seem to have replaced the Anasazi velcro's as the shoe of choice for those crankin' kids. I know, because the 15 year olds who kill it on those plastic v9s all started wearing them at about the same time. I can only assume this is related to Joe Pro cranking in them as well.
Sportiva Muiras: Kind of the dark horse. Very popular, but it looks like you have to be at least 20 to wear them. I think because you have to lace them up, which requires an attention span longer than 22 seconds. Also worn by people who I suspect climb outdoors on occasion. I think people who wear these shoes also have a drivers license, and a car. This indicates to me that they might even rope up occasionally.
Evolvs: Haven't seen these at the gym, but they appear to have a following on RC.com.
CaughtInside's shoes: 5.10 Moccasyms. I'm cheap, and long ago realized that my strength isn't precision footwork. Plus I'm not that cool. Although I did work a problem with a kid in Katana's at the gym last night. He personalized his by adding black spots on the leather over the toe. It looked cool.
Oh, I have no idea how much any of these shoes stretch. My moccs are still stretching. Hope this helps.
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dredsovrn
Jul 20, 2004, 5:37 PM
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Hey thanks. I have a pair of Miuras I really like and own a car and even a house. So, clearly your analysis is dead on. Not much on plastic and climg on rock almost all the time, but close enough.
I have some Evolvs I like too. And here I am on RC. Chalk another one up for you.
I was worried when I saw this post that the pair of shoes I was about to buy (Sportiva Venom) was on your list for "douche bag cool shoe of the year." Fortunately it isn't even mentioned, so I may buy without fear of retribution and I still won't be cool at the gym this winter.
Oh yeah, what do you think 9 sizes to small to allow for stretch on the Venoms?
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boadman
Jul 20, 2004, 5:50 PM
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You've completely ignored the Sportiva Testerossa, very popular among front range hard men, especially those that frequent rifle. The 160$ price tag scares away most people, but will actually attract the cool worshippers.
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overlord
Jul 21, 2004, 7:10 AM
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and la sportiva venoms... they look so cool.
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olive
Jul 21, 2004, 8:08 AM
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In reply to: and la sportiva venoms... they look so cool.
except the color... I wonder, who came up with that ugly color in the design department? What were they thinking?
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overlord
Jul 21, 2004, 8:38 AM
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speaking of color... la sportiva anasazi laceups are pink. but the shoes really rock. guess the color makes them kinda uncool, plus theyre a pain to put on indoors (laces and stuff) so i gues they mostly see the rock.
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nevenneve
Jul 21, 2004, 3:56 PM
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In reply to: sleaking of color... la sportiva anasazi laceups are pink. |
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jakedatc
Jul 21, 2004, 4:01 PM
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In reply to: You've completely ignored the Sportiva Testerossa, very popular among front range hard men, especially those that frequent rifle. The 160$ price tag scares away most people, but will actually attract the cool worshippers.
Sportiva has dropped the price down to like 130 so they are in the same area as most 5.10's etc etc
have them.. love them... sticky and very comfy.. not much stretch luckily
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kimmyt
Jul 21, 2004, 4:17 PM
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Wait, you mean my Spires aren't cool?
Darn.
I'm always trying too hard.
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jakedatc
Jul 21, 2004, 4:21 PM
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Kimmy you're cool anyway!....
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tedc
Jul 21, 2004, 4:37 PM
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Sportiva Kaukulators. Baby blue, yellow laces.
I thought they were cool until the guy in the gym said, "My dad has those same shoes."
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lv2climb7
Jul 21, 2004, 5:21 PM
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55555
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coylec
Jul 22, 2004, 3:38 AM
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La Sportiva Mantra S - the choice of hippy vegetarians and vegans. You'll notice these climbers get higher than anyone else ... even if they can't pull V2.
coylec
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ropeburn
Jul 22, 2004, 4:04 AM
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Trango Samba's
Although they're not as cool as kauk's, they're old and they don't make em anymore.
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petsfed
Jul 22, 2004, 4:27 AM
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In reply to: Sportiva Katanas: These seem to have replaced the Anasazi velcro's as the shoe of choice for those crankin' kids. I know, because the 15 year olds who kill it on those plastic v9s all started wearing them at about the same time. I can only assume this is related to Joe Pro cranking in them as well.
Makes sense. When I got mine, I couldn't crank in those things at all! Clearly I just had the wrong shoe until these became the cool shoe.
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caughtinside
Apr 6, 2006, 8:23 PM
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Just wanted to give this one a little bump.
Looks like Muiras are the shoe of choice these days for lots of the cool climbers around here, although there is a darkhorse v10 group running around sending hard.
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thor4life144
Apr 7, 2006, 3:55 AM
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Have to brag about Evolvs. I absolutely SWEAR by my Kaos's. And I still say that TRAX rubber is the best out there. My whole deal is climbing fatty cracks and chimneys, so i live of smearing and stemming. But, they also edge like nothing else.
As for the Venoms, love them too. Only thing I have against them (along with the Muria's) is edging out the outside toe. If using the inside of the toe, ANYTHING is super bomber, but once you have to switch to the outside of the toe box, things get a lot more sketchy.
Katana's: Great shoe for anything. Just don't get the XSV rubber with them. It has a nasty tendency of peeling off. I have more than one friend this has happened to.
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smoothicity
Apr 7, 2006, 3:56 AM
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Dude, muiras wreck house. I have two pair which makes me twice as cool even though I can't send as hard as the little kids with backs that look like hangboards. Maybe their muiras are tighter. Hmm...might be time to get a third, tighter pair.
Oh, and whoever said the Testarossas are "comfy" is a damn liar.
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jakedatc
Apr 7, 2006, 4:08 AM
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Hey, i said my Testarossas are comfy and dammit i'm not a liar..
i wore them for an hour bouldering indoors the second i bought them.. straight out of the box.. Love at first sight. 2 years and a resole later they still kick ass. If i wanted rediculous i could have gone another half size smaller. but in my opinion they dont need to bring you to tears to be aggressive. Hell i even used them at the gunks climbing multi pitch for a day and a half because my friend forgot his shoes and i let him use my boreals (ugh so glad those wore out). now sure they hurt for that and i untied them at belays and followed one pitch barefoot but. still worked out ok.
they fit my foot perfectly.. yes i take them off after a couple burns bouldering and after routes but people should do that anyway or they kill rubber walking around. I have not found a shoe like them yet.
i also have miruas for anything not mostly overhanging.. cept that if i went another .5-1 size bigger on those they would get closer but i'd still wear the 'rossas.
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alpine_monk
Apr 7, 2006, 4:36 AM
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All of you are totally off!! The coooolest shoe in world is the Sportiva mythos. For longer routes (10+pitches) it’s the tradmaster. And for test pieces its all about the anasazi lace up. Word son!
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jakedatc
Apr 7, 2006, 4:43 AM
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If i was going to get a 3rd pair of shoes.. mythos would be the ones.. for trad and slab(of any type) they seem to be the king.. or queen if you get lady mythos
psst.. 'rossas are still comfy :runs away:
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climbsomething
Apr 7, 2006, 4:47 AM
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I have Muiras, and admit that I am really looking forward to the new girly Muiras. It's true, I have an adult attention span, I don't type "u" when I want to say "you," and I even "do outside stuff." You'd be wrong about the car. However, I don't have to keep my grades up so mom will let me go to the comps.
Dave is pretty right on about the Katanas too. Those were the cool shoe at my gym for a good 3 years, but now the Galileo is really overtaking them. Lots of new looking Galileos on the gym elite. You'll also notice lots of spastic posts on here asking about the Galileo and inserting the name into "vs" threads. You know, Galileo vs Anasazi, Galileo vs rental boot.
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jakedatc
Apr 7, 2006, 5:00 AM
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hil check out the lady katanas too.. my gf loves them.. she has really skinny feet that fit great. she is also looking forward to the lady miuras.
hehe hillary in a shoe thread :points and snickers: ;)
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rhythm164
Apr 14, 2006, 3:51 PM
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I don't think it gets much cooler than those old Sportiva hightops Ron Kauk used to wear...
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chanceboarder
Apr 14, 2006, 4:03 PM
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Hey where do us ACOPA people fit into this scale? Are we lame cuz no one else wears them? Or does that make us extra cool for not going with the crowds and being different? 8^) :lol:
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gogo
Apr 14, 2006, 4:04 PM
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So is there no love for Mad Rock here?
Where do the locos fit into this equation?
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krusher4
Apr 14, 2006, 5:44 PM
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this thread is great...funny and infomative.
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krusher4
Apr 14, 2006, 5:48 PM
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In reply to: All of you are totally off!! The coooolest shoe in world is the Sportiva mythos. For longer routes (10+pitches) it’s the tradmaster. And for test pieces its all about the anasazi lace up. Word son!
no the La spotiva tradmaster is the tradmaster, these are the pups that I most often sport, oh and they are great for sport and bouldering. On less techical trad climbs I wear boreal golds the best shoe ever I think.
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crackboy
Apr 14, 2006, 9:33 PM
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i noticed the same thing at the gym i sometimes go to, which is probably not statistically different since Dave probably goes to pipeworks.
for a long time it was the anasazi velcros, then one day it seemed like everyone had katanas.
i was lucky as i starterd busting out my resoled katanas right before they became cool so i looked liek i was with it before anyone else. but then i blew them out again and went back to teh anasazi velcros i had laying aorund so i probably looked behind the times. now i am rocking the evolve slippers, that i am finanlly getting a chance to break in so i am the quirky guy with the weird shoes.
for a while all the kids were weraring the madrocks but once the older crowd started sporting them they didn't seem as non-mainstream so they went to the anasazis.
the pink lace-ups will always be cool, but not cool if you wear them inside.
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petsfed
Apr 14, 2006, 10:09 PM
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I don't think Muirras will ever be the "it" shoe, since they aren't as obviously aggro as the Venom or the Testarossa, nor do they have the instant recognizability of the V10 or the Anasazi Velcro. What I see a lot of as far as "it" shoes (although less so now) was the MadRock Loco. But what the hell do I know, I'm still pining for a pair of Sportiva Rock Jocks.
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curtis_g
Apr 14, 2006, 10:35 PM
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In reply to: If i was going to get a 3rd pair of shoes.. mythos would be the ones.. for trad and slab(of any type) they seem to be the king.. or queen if you get lady mythos psst.. 'rossas are still comfy :runs away:
The mythos will probably be my second pair of shoes. Rite now I'm lovin the Pheonix (theres your madrock love) but something about toe shape is hurting, its not too tight its just my right big toe is getting to be a problem.
Not to mention the Mythos looks so cool yet so comfy at the same time. its the 'coolest' shoe for the resident hardman at my gym.
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climbsomething
Apr 15, 2006, 1:14 AM
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In reply to: hil check out the lady katanas too.. my gf loves them.. she has really skinny feet that fit great. she is also looking forward to the lady miuras. hehe hillary in a shoe thread :points and snickers: ;)
The lady Katanas didn't fit my foot... I tried them on. I WILL have those chick Muiras though. The "guy" ones are great.
Yeah yeah. Is this a SHOE THREAD?!
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musicman1586
Apr 15, 2006, 2:58 AM
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How about it for the Madrock Flash eh? Extremely common around here, even among "real" climbers.
Oh, btw, the woman's Miura is a godsend to someone with a foot as narrow as mine (heh, I have less than an AAA width...) one of the few shoes that I've found that really have had just an amazing fit on my foot, they more then likely shall be my next shoe investment.
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hillbillywannabe
Apr 15, 2006, 3:28 AM
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i saw a pair of galaleos (i dont knwo how to speel it) you know the new white 5.10 shoe with the onyx rubber anyway, i saw them.... OUTSIDE! :shock: yeah...
and by the way my sportiva cliffs about half size or more too big got me up my first 5.10b/c today it was exciting =) i wonder how easy it will be when i get some money to get some shoes that fit better...
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powerhousebum
Apr 15, 2006, 11:45 PM
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i have to go with my evolv agro's....or the ever popular red chile dos equis, I can crank in those and they're unique as hell.
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curtis_g
Apr 16, 2006, 10:22 PM
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My newest pair of shoes, MR Pheonix-es, have been serving me great in the gym but this weekend i had my first full day of trad in them and they set fire to my feet (in a bad way).
Now, to avoid hijacking and asking about trad shoes Ican ask: "What is the coolest Trad shoe around?"
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hillbillywannabe
Apr 17, 2006, 2:56 PM
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i would guess the mythos.
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wax
Apr 21, 2006, 4:22 PM
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mad rock LOCO's... rip the useless rubber on the upper off (not a hard thing to do) and the shoes look sweet. plus, really really comfy for a downturned toe kinda shoe
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skrunchamunch
Apr 21, 2006, 4:36 PM
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Hmmmm, I think the coolest shoes I have are my 9 year old Tevas held together with climbing tape.
Skrunch
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saulokin
Apr 26, 2006, 11:00 AM
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Since when does fashion get you up the pitch?
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invinciblenow
Apr 26, 2006, 12:11 PM
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In reply to: Since when does fashion get you up the pitch?
when you feel good about yourself on the inside AND the outside
And to put in my two cents, the 5.10 Galileo's are becoming rediculously popular down here in eastern NC. That Onix rubber sure sticks the plastic well...
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wax
Apr 26, 2006, 12:45 PM
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it's ALL about fashion... and being reall really really ridiculously good looking
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saulokin
Apr 26, 2006, 12:52 PM
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I guess I just have to say, I feel great about my self, inside and out.
Oh, and I ain't pretty. If you see a picture, you'll know. 8^)
BTW, like the thread anyway. Sarcasm, humor and all that. Oh yeah, just got off nightshift. Sleeeeep.
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tradclmbr
Apr 26, 2006, 1:45 PM
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Is caughtinside suggesting that the fact that I wear Mythos WITH ankle sock(lettes....meaning thin) means Im not on the cool kid roster?
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hillbillywannabe
Apr 26, 2006, 2:09 PM
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i wear socks with my over sized cliffs, so socks with mythos has got to be more cooler than me...
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ninja_climber
Apr 26, 2006, 2:12 PM
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I have the La Sport Mantra S . They are so uber cool looking when I'm in the gym cranking on the V4 Slab....
j/k
But I do have those shoes though, the rubbers a bit thin but the are super aggresive...Definatly not for those with sloppy feet. I had a friend just starting out who bought these ...tore through them in a 2 weeks on rock.
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fiver
Apr 30, 2006, 6:57 PM
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My god. I have Katanas. I'm hip. I never thought that this would happen to me. Luckily, I know a cure. Now I have to go find a members only jacket to start wearing...
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jimdavis
Apr 30, 2006, 8:54 PM
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In reply to: So is there no love for Mad Rock here? Where do the locos fit into this equation?
Have to move over to the beginners forum to find that love.
At the gym I work at, I often see people do a route in new shoes and talk about how great they are....shortly after I climb the same route in Asics, they get a little more quite about how sticky the rubber is.
My Evovl Quests look like they're gonna be great for trad...super comfortable with good rubber and a great fit. The only thing is they're heavily lined and seem like they're gonna be ovens this summer. I'm already worried about the smell....
Jim
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