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extrasports
May 13, 2002, 1:54 AM
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I have La Sportiva...thinking of getting brand but I'm confused too many choices.
Help what do you wear?
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varstar10
May 13, 2002, 2:09 AM
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dude...i use 5.10 slippers...i climb alot of over hanging routes and they are really sensetive shoes. Great for pulling on little pockets...but they will kill your feet on long slab routes...
Jon
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extrasports
May 13, 2002, 2:28 AM
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Thanks I thought slippers would be the way to go but had no idea which brand.
Thanks again
H-man extrasports
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bigfish03
May 13, 2002, 3:38 AM
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hey extrasports,
i have boreal aces right now, but am seriosly considering changing to la sportiva. which ones do you have? how much smaller are they than your normal street shoes? do they strech alot?
ryan
[ This Message was edited by: bigfish03 on 2002-05-12 20:39 ]
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rickoldskool
May 13, 2002, 3:43 AM
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extrasports, I wear:
5.10 huecos-all around shoe; slab, crack edges OK,long routes. Most comfortable shoe I own.
Boreal Ballets- boot; edge great, crack OK, slab, long routes, chimneys or OW. Protects my ankle bone.
5.10 Moccasym- slipper; sport, friction, overhangs
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jdcox_9
May 13, 2002, 3:44 AM
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i own red chili torros and i got them because they are superior performance shoes
i think they are the most precise shoes i've tried on.
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miagi
May 13, 2002, 4:24 AM
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Well, I have a pair of Kermits from climbingshoes.com and a pair of Boreal Zens. Right now im sticking with my zens most often, but once i get both pairs resoled with C4, im going to use the zens on sport and boulder, and the kermits for some long multi-pitch or trad.
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mr_gondola
May 13, 2002, 4:27 AM
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I wear 5.10 moccasyms and anasazi velcroes. The mocs are great, have really good feeling of the rock under them, and yeah they're good for overhanging junk. The anasazis are pretty awesome too though! Just bought them, but they are definitely high quality shoes
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hang_man
May 13, 2002, 4:56 AM
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I own a pair of Bufo Weapons... why i own it? because 1)I bought the wrong shoes 2)it's cheap 3)I'm poor.....
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pushfurther
May 13, 2002, 6:16 AM
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climbingshoes.com firewalls. a friend gave them to me. they're great for edging, not so great for smearing. they're also at least a half size too small and they won't stretch.
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gerard
May 13, 2002, 11:51 AM
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anasazi laceup.
coz it happen to b on sale?
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traddaddy
May 13, 2002, 1:54 PM
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To be honest, after 10 years of climbing I still like my La Sportiva Enduros the best, and the 5.10 Spires work good as all around Trad shoes.
But for something like a super-ninja-slipper, I have a pair of La Sportiva Cobras, THEY ROCK. But the tend to make make feet hurt after the 1st three pitches. (Maybe because they're a size too small, duh! )
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calamity_chk
May 13, 2002, 2:15 PM
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I have La Sportivas (mythos) and love them. They've molded nicely to the shape of my foot, allowing me to edge a little better and such. Of course, the fellas who I climb with are big fans of 5.10's so I get harassed aplenty for having 'inferior shoes,' but I like 'em.
Unfortunately, though, I have no special reason as to why I bought them, other than the fact that I needed shoes for a trip, and they were the only pair that REI had in my size. (I have really tiny feet.)
You may have already done so, but I'd try climbing in as many shoes as possible before buying a certain pair. (I realize, of course, that this is also somewhat contingent upon having friends who climb and wear the same size shoe.) If all else fails, try them on at the store and boulder around on stuff for a couple of minutes.
Hope that helps!
amber
[ This Message was edited by: clymbr_chk on 2002-05-13 07:17 ]
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stevematthys
May 14, 2002, 12:22 AM
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boreal diablo, because they were not terribly expensive and they felt good when i tried them on.
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fo_d
May 14, 2002, 12:54 AM
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5.10 Spires my 1st shoes, I had them resoled and am saving them for long routes
LaSportiva Murias because I had a good size rebate check form REI and I thought if people say me with them they would think I was a real good climber, j/k.
5.10 X-rays because I wanted a high performance velcroe shoe with 5.10 rubber, and they were cheap.
the last 2 listed are both incredable shoes for edging on tiny little nubs or ledges, the LaSportivas have a little more support, both were very uncomfortable to brake in.
Les
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kunzie
May 14, 2002, 12:52 PM
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Scarpa Infernos.
True, not the ideal shoe for extremities, but I use them more for comfort and endurance.
They melded to my feet the moment I tried them in, love at first site. lol
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jules
May 14, 2002, 1:11 PM
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I have Scarpa Paranoias because I needed shoes and I found a pair for $50. They're a little bit tight (read: my toes go numb when I wear them), but I live.
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k2exp2010
May 14, 2002, 1:43 PM
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I generally stick to 5.10 shoes. I like the C4 rubber. I was thinking about the slippers but the lace-ups give me a snug fit (as if rock-shoes weren't tight enough already).
As for what shoes to use, it's really up to you. This is a realm where personal preference comes in to help you decide which ones to buy. Go to the store. Pick up a few that aesthetically pleases you and then try them on. If you can't move anything but your ankles, you're good to go.
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screamer
May 14, 2002, 1:46 PM
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i have a pair of la sportiva miura's for granite bouldering, cuz they edge like no other...and pair of cobras for sport...
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climber_trev
May 14, 2002, 10:43 PM
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i have a pair of Boreal aces, these were my first ever pair of climbing shoes, i got them about half the price they usually are and their comfortable (as climbing shoes go), durable and good in most climbing situation so i'll keep them as a general purpose / all round shoe. Im thinking of getting a new pair, maybe some edging shoes or something a bit more aggessive!
climber_trev
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mitchal
May 14, 2002, 11:16 PM
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Boreal Diablos,like steve,cheap at $55 at barabbes.com and they seem to be working great after a year indoor,outdoor,bouldering,killing flies......
When I need to get new shoes they will be boreal diablos again.If it aint broke,don't fix it.Right?
Climb Happy
Mitch
The $55 was including shipping
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couloir
May 14, 2002, 11:42 PM
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I have 5.10 Newtons for trad climbing, because their stiff, precise, and comfortable. And they are slip lasted, which means higher performance and better durability than board lasted. I just got a pair of 5.10 Zlippers for general bouldering and sport routes, since they edge good and still have more sensitivity than almost any other shoe. And I have 5.10 v-10's for real steep stuff that requires body tension. If your looking for a good slipper go with Zlippers.
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kaptk
May 15, 2002, 5:53 AM
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I wear a pair of Scarpa shoes that I bought in England while on a trip to the UK. I bought them because I got a good deal on them and they fit my feet. I have wide feet, so what works for a lot of other people won't work for me. My most important thing when buying shoes is that you are able to try them on and see how they feel while putting weight on them on something that will simulate climbing. That is why a lot of stores have a little mini wall for you to use while trying on different shoes.
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clam
May 15, 2002, 4:03 PM
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Boreal Equinox. I have always used LaSportivas. I wanted to try something with a little stiffer sole. I find that the Equinox's are not as comfortable as LaSportivas - they pinch a bit in the toe of the left shoe - but I am still breaking them in and think they will be just fine. I find them to be somewhere in between - in terms of rigidity or stiffness - a board lasted and slip lasted shoe. I did try on a pair of LaSportiva Mythos recently; they felt like a soft glove on my foot. I'll bet they're an excellent all day shoe for long routes. Oh well, I'm sure my feet and my Boreal Equinoxes will come to some understanding.
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hounder
May 18, 2002, 2:30 PM
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Boreal Matrix
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climbinganne
May 18, 2002, 3:08 PM
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I have sportiva...focus, needed the stiffness after foot surgury, but hard to feel the rock. I am looking now at Huecos-five tens, borrowed then from a friend.....WOW!!!!!!
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xen_monkey
May 18, 2002, 4:18 PM
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I wear Boreal Pyros and Boreal Stingers (though I need them resoled). I find Boreals fit the best of the shoes I've tried. All the LA Sportiva's I've tried fit funny. I kecpt doing smaller sizes yet I stil felt like I had dead spots on the outside edge.
5.10 tens sizing is funny, each shoe sizing was different. Its like they already take into account you need to get them smaller so they just put a larger number on a small shoe. Its weird. Plus I can never seem to find my size.
But Back to my shoes. I really like the stingers. Good edging and the toe crest is great on overhangs, though I did find the rubber wore a little fast, but that could by my fault . They also stretch almost a full size, luckily I got them small enough that I didn't lose and sensitivty. I just got the Pyros and I've only worn them twice so I can't really comment on them other than I love the fit. The neoprene makes them sooo comfortable, they're like a hybrid between a slipper and a velcro because of the use of both neoprene and velcro.
But lets face it, the best recomndation for shoes come from your feet. Find something that fits nice and snug with no obvious presure points that might not stretch. And ask how much they'll give.
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cragman
May 19, 2002, 12:07 AM
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I have a pair of 5.10 navajo, good all around shoe. Perfect to begin, not too agresive and won't kill your feet
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climber_dude
May 19, 2002, 3:52 AM
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i have a pair of rock pillar walls because its all my local store sells and im flat out paying for my gym membership
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boogirl
May 19, 2002, 10:46 PM
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My first pair of dancing shoes were 5.10 diamonds. Made especially for women and their narrow heels, I found them to be incredibly comfortable and a great all around shoe. Later I decided something a little more technical was in order so I acquired a pair of LaSportiva mythos. They're like a jack-of-all-trades. A balance of fit, comfort and performance unless you plan to wear them all day. I also keep a pair of 5.10 womens Zlippers with me. The pointy toe is great for technical stuff and they stick to almost anything - but, I have to agree with varstar10, they're the most uncomfortable things I've ever had on my feet! Wouldn't trade them for anything though.
[ This Message was edited by: boogirl on 2002-05-19 15:48 ]
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felixthecat
May 20, 2002, 12:31 AM
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5.10 newtons all the way. they do almost everything...microedges, smears, cracks, etc. just a great all around shoe that is comfy and good for long trad routes to bouldering. i also have a pair of anastazi velcros but i only use them on certain occassions.
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ky_boulder
May 20, 2002, 3:10 AM
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Boreal Aces...
got 'em for $66
They fit great once my feet worked into them, I could smear up a wall in them if i had to, and they're really versatile. But not comfy enough for long climbs.
[ This Message was edited by: ky_boulder on 2002-05-19 21:11 ]
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allard
May 20, 2002, 5:56 PM
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There's no such thing as the best climbing shoe. It depends on your style and level of climbing and the shape of your foot. Find one that fits evenly tight. try it on and try it out.
Stiffer shoes: better edging and less painful jamming, more durable
Softer shoes: more sensitive, for overhangs, better when placed flat on the rock (is this the definition of 'smearing'?, i'm not a native engl. speaker)
At this moment I use Sportiva Ghibli's and 5.10 mocassyms, but I've also been happy with Scarpa and Boreal.
allard
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bergsteiger
May 29, 2002, 4:36 AM
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Boreal Equinox was my choice for my first shoe. I tried 5-10 and Scarpa but when I slipped into the Boreal it was like a glove~! The Scarpas made me cry
As mentioned the Equinox is board lasted for greater stiffness ... which from what I understand is better for a new climber. My only complaint, they tend to dig in the back of my heel .. easily solved with a small piece of felt and permanent glue.
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climbsomething
May 31, 2002, 11:53 PM
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Five-Ten Anasazi Velcro- great control and precision, supportive but not stiff, velcro makes them easy to get on and off. High performance. I use them for the gym and shorter sport routes.
La Sportiva Merak- nice for narrow feet, comfortable in the sun because of the light color and mesh tongue. My new fave for outdoors these days
Five-Ten Diamonds- a bit of a specialty. I use them for longer routes and/or routes I expect to take my time on (usually trad). They're very comfy all-around, but in the summer things can get toasty (see above). I also use them during certain times of the month when my feet swell and my other shoes are to tight
In terms of rubber (on shoes I have used), Five Ten is the best, then Sportiva, then Boreal. (I know rubber doesn't make the climber, but hey, I need all the handicaps I can get) But speaking of Boreal, I briefly owned a pair of Matrix slippers, v. comfy, but they were too big and I had to give them up for adoption (hmm, maybe that was why they were so comfy??)
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orestes1724
Jun 1, 2002, 12:07 AM
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one sport hooks:
they are awesome shoes. they hook really good (hence the name) and they are great for edging. the only bad part is they get really thin, really fast. i dont know if thats because i use them a lot but they get pretty thin.
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vaness
Jun 1, 2002, 1:17 AM
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the hooks also stretch about a half size. but the good thing is if you buy them small they will streatch withnin 5 times of climbing. they dint take long at all to streatch and "mold" to your feet
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ktwo
Jun 1, 2002, 3:33 AM
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Bufo Pharoh's because they are cheep and I am poor. Once I got them resoled, they are actually pretty decent shoes.
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need_for_climbing
Jun 1, 2002, 5:32 AM
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I wear the most aggressive bend shoe. La sportiva Mirage. Its red with yellow laces.
Advantages::eek: Good for twisting and drop knee. In bouldering its good when ur totally horizontal to the ground traveling lets say to the left. The aggressive shoe helps u hook onto the tile much easier then newtons or V10 those less aggressive shoes.
Disadvantages: Needs some getting used too. Not all people who wear it will find it comfortable. Because of the Banana like shape ur feet needs to be sharp. those with broad feet tend to not like the shoe. But once u adjust to the MIRAGE u will find it much comfortable then even newtons.(PLS EXCUSE MY ENGLISH)
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cragchica
Jun 1, 2002, 8:56 AM
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I love my 5.10 Diamonds... super-comfy... and a good all-purpose shape. They have taught me to smear more and tip-toe less.
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crackhabit
Jun 3, 2002, 5:12 PM
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i own 2 pairs of aces. i love them. the deal with buying shoes is that you have to try them one and get the one that fits your foot. i tried the mocasyms and had problem out of the box. every shoe is different. find the company the has the fit and go there. think not about price unless there is no choice. go with fit
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lesotho
Jun 4, 2002, 3:37 AM
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I have LaSportiva Mythos.
They are unbelievably comfortable and they sit like a second skin. Great for long climbs, edging is great, smearing is great.
I am thinking of getting a pair of Red Chilli
Voodoo's because I hear it is a great presicion shoe and I want to have a slipper for sport climbing and keep my Mythos for those longer trad routes.
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fingerjam
Jun 4, 2002, 4:10 AM
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I wear the scarpa Reflex's cuz they were reletivly cheap and they are a awsome shoe for the price.
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rico
Jun 4, 2002, 11:22 AM
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When i started i bought the LA Sportiva "Cliff blue". Not bad to start, and more or less cheap.
Now i've got a 5.10 slipper to practice overhangs.
VOTE FOR ME!!! plz..
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spoon369
Jun 8, 2002, 12:44 AM
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I have a pair of Kermit shoes from Climbingshoes.com. I only paid 50.00 for them at the time. I really like these shoes...they just feel good on my feet
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a4naught
Jun 8, 2002, 3:42 AM
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I too own 5.10 Diamonds as my first pair, being a newbie. Half price at the 5.10 outlet in Redlands, CA. Fit my narrow little feet very nicely, though, I could still use something even narrower! Tried zillions of other shoes, but, due to narrow foot, and low ankle bone, could not fit any others but the 5.10 Sapphire (the update to the Diamond). Only issue is with my extra long Morton's toe on my left, which complains if I wear em too long. Also, on slabby stuff, the need for stronger feet and ankles in these becomes obvious. Phew! Screaming mimies! Maybe I should bring my flip flops for belay.
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justgoupfromthere
Jun 8, 2002, 5:20 AM
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Scarpa Reflex. Basically because they were cheap and they edge well and are good in cracks. I am looking at getting a pair of velcro closures or slippers next.
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tahquitztwo
Jun 8, 2002, 6:07 AM
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I use 5.10 Huecos(the old ones)and the Ascents...and still hang onto my old Boreal Fires (love that stiff board last for cracks)...and I'm considering a pair of Mythos because of the lacing which allows the shoe to be shaped to almost any foot if sized correctly.
I'm in agreement with Allard and a couple of the other posts.....I work at REI and am very familiar with climbing shoes...
go for the shoe that fits your feet the most comfortably and works best for the type of climbing you do and for your style of climbing. Shoes that are lined will not stretch much only conform to your foot and shoes that are not lined will stretch from one to two sizes after being used a few times. If you're new to climbing, go with a comfortable stiffer shoe since a slipper demands much stronger control of feet and ankles. Good luck and happy climbing
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bouldertoad
Jun 13, 2002, 5:43 AM
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The age old shoe question is one that can be debated for all eternity. I own a pair of 5.10 Newtons for trad a pair of Boreal Pyros for sport/bouldering and a pair of 5.10 huecos for all day comfort.
In all reality though you should buy a shoe that fits your feet not the one that fits the pro's feet. I have seen people wearing an old pair of sportiva kaukulators send a 13 steep sport route and also have seen a person wearing slippers on a hard vertical/slab climb. Basically it is not on your feet that matters to much but rather what fits your feet.
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kitt
Jun 13, 2002, 2:03 PM
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I climb just for 3 monthes and my La Sportiva Mythos seems to be the most universal for me and fits perfect.
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brian763
Jun 13, 2002, 2:35 PM
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I have a pair of Boreal Zephyrs they're not too bad. A little stiff at first, but they've seem to have molded nicely. I got them because they were the only shoes I could afford. I think they may have been last years model or something. Since I'm only beginning to climb more often they seem to suit my needs pretty well.
[ This Message was edited by: brian763 on 2002-06-13 07:37 ]
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overlord
Jun 13, 2002, 2:47 PM
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i own a pair of boreal diablos that were my first shoe and i use them now for training and easy climbing.
i also have a pair of anasazi lace-ups and spare them for heavyer clibms.
going to buy a pair of dragons for overhanging stuff
CLIMB ON
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woodse
Jun 13, 2002, 3:04 PM
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La Sportiva Mythos cause they are the most comfortable shoe ever and Boreal Stingers cause they're really cheap on barrabes!
woodsE
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pushfurther
Jun 13, 2002, 3:55 PM
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i just got back from the store with 5.10 zlippers.
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clymber
Jun 13, 2002, 4:39 PM
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Registered: Feb 8, 2002
Posts: 1259
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lets see i have 4 pair
Boreal Matrix for the overhang tech stuff
Scarpa Dominators for the long multi pitch stuff
Scarpa slippers for bouldering
Mocasymns for the gym
guess i spend a bit to much money on toys but dammit i want to win
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rocknpowda
Jun 13, 2002, 5:05 PM
Post #56 of 56
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Registered: Apr 16, 2002
Posts: 418
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When looking for a pair of shoes, you should consider what type of climbing you will be doing most. you can put on any shoe and climb but certain shoes do certain things better. If you haven't been climbing long or won't be doing anything too aggresive, get a pair of shoes that doesn't break the budget and that fits the shape of your foot well. Later, when you're more experienced, you'll know what kind of climbing you like, and can buy a more specialized shoe. And get something that isn't toooooo tight, you won't enjoy climbing much if your feet are in pain the whole time.
I climbed on boreal aces for years and this year switched to 5.10 newtons, a precise trad/all around shoe that fit my foot perfect right when I put them on out of the box. I like 5.10's sizing, their new fake-a-hyde leather material doesn't stretch and they're sized so that your street shoe size will fit the way the shoe is meant to fit-no guesswork when sizing them. A knowledgable salesperson at your local shop is a great resource-after all they're your feet what we tell you to wear may be the worst thing for your foot or style of climbing. Good luck
Pete
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