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rockrat_co
Oct 26, 2005, 1:21 AM
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Hey,
I was wondering what you guys thought would be more effective. A training board, campus board, or bowflex? Just trying to get an idea!
Thanks,
rockrat_co
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bensnyder
Oct 26, 2005, 1:35 AM
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Before I answer, tell me this...
What level do you climb at?
What do you want to train (specifically)?
Just trying to get a full picture so I can give you a better answer...
Ben
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squierbypetzl
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Oct 26, 2005, 1:44 AM
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In reply to: What level do you climb at? What do you want to train (specifically)?
Yep.
They`re all good for training different things, need more info.
Do you want to start a training regime with one of these methods or are you just asking just for the sake of knowing?
BTW: what`s a bowflex??
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rockrat_co
Oct 26, 2005, 2:01 AM
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I can lead sport up to 5.11, trad to 5.10. I am startign to project really steep routes, crimpers and all!?
Thanks,
rockrat_co
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bensnyder
Oct 26, 2005, 2:13 AM
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Ok At your level, I would suggest a hangboard. The reason these are great is:
They allow you to work on all types of holds (inculding the all important open handed grip). A hangboard is a great way to improve your open handed grip strength (which directly translates into crimp grip strength)
They allow you to strengthen your core using body weight exercizes (the most effective and sport specific exercizes you can do). A good core is, afterall, important for any overhang...
As you get better, you aren't going to outgrow the thing. Even the best climbers have hangboards, because they have something to offer every level of climber.
If you are going to buy a hang board, I would suggest a Metolius hangboard. Check them out on the metolius website - they make them in two sizes - see which one is best for you. All said, its probably the best $50-70 dollars you can spend to improve your climbing.
Anything I'm leaving out? Hope this all helps...
Ben
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jitterbugclimb
Oct 26, 2005, 2:22 AM
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You will definitely want to train on a hangboard before you start on a campus board. A bowflex will do absolutely nothing for your climbing. If you need weight training to gain strength for climbing, use dragondoor http://www.dragondoor.com/cgi-bin/articles.pl?rm=mode3&articleid=229 and supplement with free weights a few days a week. when weight training, focus on muscles that are most prone to injury while climbing, like shoulders and arms. No need to buy expensive equipment. A set of dumbells or kettlebels in addition to the exercises listed in the dragondoor web sit, will make you very strong-go from climbing 5.11 to 5.14 in a year! Use a campus board only when your tendons and joints are capable. Even then, keep it to a couple days a week. boulder a lot and work on technique. Traversing is a great way to get good footwork. good luck!
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squierbypetzl
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Oct 26, 2005, 2:28 AM
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I was actually reading your post until I saw this:
In reply to: A set of dumbells or kettlebels in addition to the exercises listed in the dragondoor web sit, will make you very strong-go from climbing 5.11 to 5.14 in a year! !
IŽll leave it at: Liar.
Dude, heŽll need an effing miracle if he follows your "advice".
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jitterbugclimb
Oct 26, 2005, 2:38 AM
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In reply to: IŽll leave it at: Liar. How? Explain.
Why? Do you know him/her? Encouragement is a good thing. If you disegree and have better advice, post it and let the person decide. Instead you give insults-makes you look like a moron, as I am sure you are (oh, there is my insult-oops).
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jitterbugclimb
Oct 26, 2005, 2:48 AM
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In reply to: IŽll leave it at: Liar.
How? Explain.
In reply to: Dude, heŽll need an effing miracle if he follows your "advice".
Why? Do you know him/her? Encouragement is a good thing. If you have better advice, post it and let the person decide. Giving insults makes you look like a moron- not an insult, just an observation.
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jitterbugclimb
Oct 26, 2005, 2:52 AM
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In reply to: IŽll leave it at: Liar.
How? Explain.
In reply to: Dude, heŽll need an effing miracle if he follows your "advice".
Why? Do you know him/her? Encouragement is a good thing. If you have better advice, post it and let the person decide. Giving insults makes you look like a moron- not an insult, just an observation.
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billcoe_
Oct 26, 2005, 3:11 AM
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Read Jitterbugs advice on not overusing the ligaments part again slowly. Key part for most folks is not "overtraining" tendons and ligaments! A tendon and ligament injury can be more painful and take longer to heal, than an outrigth break.
Hangboards are nice, sometimes it hard to stay motivated to get on them after a while in the winter though.
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squierbypetzl
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Oct 26, 2005, 3:13 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: IŽll leave it at: Liar. How? Explain. In reply to: Dude, heŽll need an effing miracle if he follows your "advice". Why? Do you know him/her? Encouragement is a good thing. If you have better advice, post it and let the person decide. Giving insults makes you look like a moron- not an insult, just an observation.
Ok, rereading your entire post, I may have been unnecesarrily aggresive.
Because most people will never climb anywhere near 5.14, so saying itŽs possible to go from 5.11 to 5.14 in 12 months sounded like a lie to me.
quote2:
Because most people will never climb anywhere near 5.14, so saying itŽs possible to go from 5.11 to 5.14 in 12 months sounded like a troll to me. Hey, maybe thereŽs someone who can... great, IŽd be happy if that happened; but given the way the human body (normally) works, I wouldnŽt put all my eggs in that basket.
No I donŽt know rockrat_co.
Yes it is.
DonŽt go overboard with your training. If you can lead steady 5.11 sport then sure, hangboards might be a good idea; campusing is (IMHumbleO) not. Weight trainingŽs climbing benefits are a tad controversial (I do believe it can help), but I would not recomend anyone lift weights a few days a week, and campus train a couple days a week, and go bouldering a lot all at once. Traversing is a good way to better your footwork.
Yeah ok.
Whew... what a relief :wink:
Decide.
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jitterbugclimb
Oct 26, 2005, 3:19 AM
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In reply to: Because most people will never climb anywhere near 5.14, so saying itŽs possible to go from 5.11 to 5.14 in 12 months sounded like a lie to me.
You may be right. Most people will never climb 5.14. And many people will be happy climbing 5.11 forever, just because they like to climb, be outdoors, be around friends. But if you are like me, you are always trying to climb harder. Granted, this philosophy is not for everyone. But if it works for you, aim high.
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squierbypetzl
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Oct 26, 2005, 3:29 AM
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In reply to: You may be right. Most people will never climb 5.14. And many people will be happy climbing 5.11 forever, just because they like to climb, be outdoors, be around friends. But if you are like me, you are always trying to climb harder. Granted, this philosophy is not for everyone. But if it works for you, aim high.
I love climbing 1st off (easy or hard), but being so drained from a climb that itŽs easier to just sit down on the floor of the subway car than trying to hold myself up is a nice feeling too.
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blitzkrieg_climber13
Oct 26, 2005, 4:36 AM
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this is my favorite thread yet.
"he'll need an effing miracle with your "advice""
so classic.
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franko
Oct 26, 2005, 4:58 AM
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A bowflex will develop strength just like weights. Your muscles don't know the difference, and neither does jitterbug.
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franko
Oct 26, 2005, 4:59 AM
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A bowflex will develop strength just like weights. Your muscles don't know the difference, and neither does jitterbug.
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bensnyder
Oct 26, 2005, 6:34 PM
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In reply to: A bowflex will develop strength just like weights. Your muscles don't know the difference, and neither does jitterbug.
Nope. Although the bowflex does allow some freedom of range of motion, you dont get the same range of motion with a bowflex that you would with free weights (or whatever the hell these dragondoor ppl use [kettelbells?]).
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ikefromla
Oct 26, 2005, 6:52 PM
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i highly recommend a hangboard routine for those looking to improve sport-specific strength, but practice restraint at first to avoid injury. Frankie Ocasio outlines a pretty good routine here: http://www.8a.nu/site2/ (click on articles and then hangboarding).
clearly a campus board has its benefits as well, but i feel that you definitely get more bang for your buck with a hangboard. (i have owned boards made by both Pusher and Nicros and prefer both over Metolius.)
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ikefromla
Oct 26, 2005, 6:57 PM
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i highly recommend a hangboard routine for those looking to improve sport-specific strength, but practice restraint at first to avoid injury. Frankie Ocasio outlines a pretty good routine here: http://www.8a.nu/site2/ (click on articles and then hangboarding).
clearly a campus board has its benefits as well, but i feel that you definitely get more bang for your buck with a hangboard. (i have owned boards made by both Pusher and Nicros and prefer both over Metolius.)
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bensnyder
Oct 26, 2005, 7:37 PM
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In reply to: i highly recommend a hangboard routine for those looking to improve sport-specific strength, but practice restraint at first to avoid injury. Frankie Ocasio outlines a pretty good routine here: http://www.8a.nu/site2/ (click on articles and then hangboarding). clearly a campus board has its benefits as well, but i feel that you definitely get more bang for your buck with a hangboard. (i have owned boards made by both Pusher and Nicros and prefer both over Metolius.)
Just wondering why you like pusher and nicros over metolius. I'm thinking about getting another hangboard for the basement, and I'd like to mix things up a bit - the metolius design is too limited in some aspects (i.e. hold variety). Any suggestions?
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mcfoley
Oct 26, 2005, 8:05 PM
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:lol:
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franko
Oct 26, 2005, 9:39 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: A bowflex will develop strength just like weights. Your muscles don't know the difference, and neither does jitterbug. Nope. Although the bowflex does allow some freedom of range of motion, you dont get the same range of motion with a bowflex that you would with free weights (or whatever the hell these dragondoor ppl use [kettelbells?]).
Range of motion is not relevant to developing strength. You can strengthen a muscle with isometrics.
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bensnyder
Oct 27, 2005, 12:41 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: A bowflex will develop strength just like weights. Your muscles don't know the difference, and neither does jitterbug. Nope. Although the bowflex does allow some freedom of range of motion, you dont get the same range of motion with a bowflex that you would with free weights (or whatever the hell these dragondoor ppl use [kettelbells?]). Range of motion is not relevant to developing strength. You can strengthen a muscle with isometrics.
The the most effective exercizes for rock climbing involve joint freedom and a full range of motion. Weight machines rarely strengthen the supporting muscles that need to be strong for climbing. Trust me on this one...
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jitterbugclimb
Oct 27, 2005, 1:17 AM
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In reply to: A bowflex will develop strength just like weights. Your muscles don't know the difference, and neither does jitterbug.
the difference between what, a bowflex and a free weight? Or a muscle and a jitterbug? you make no sense. A bowflex will develop strength, for 600 freakin bucks. A set of dumbells is what? 40 bucks. do what you want though. I just always thought that tv infomercials are the only place for a bowflex.
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