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chossmonkey
Jul 21, 2008, 5:42 PM
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epoch wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. I've been working. L'habitant is working and doesn't have internet at home anymore. Until it gets fixed. Rebecca is busy at work. WMD is burning gas. Art is pretending to be climbing. The donnys are temporarily on the run. Doc is necromancing. Who did I forget? *cough*
If it makes you feel any better, I almost forgot Doc.
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chossmonkey
Jul 21, 2008, 5:45 PM
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the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: the_climber wrote: Shitty Doc. doesn't bother me none. easier to do that than carry the fat bastard down the stairs. You reverted to your Army training and left him for dead? He who learns to run away lives to run another day. Minstrel: [singing] Brave Sir Doc ran away... Sir Doc: *No!* Minstrel: [singing] bravely ran away away... Sir Doc: *I didn't!* Minstrel: [singing] When danger reared its ugly head, he bravely turned his tail and fled. Sir Doc: *I never did!* Minstrel: [singing] Yes, brave Sir Doc turned about, and valiantly, he chickened out. Sir Doc: *Oh, you liars!* Minstrel: [singing] Bravely taking to his feet, he beat a very brave retreat. A brave retreat by brave Sir Doc. Aren't you supposed to be climbing today? I left for climbing shortly after I posted that. New route, 5.8 145-150m really not worth mentioning unless I go back there and find a significant variation that finds much better rock.... starting at about 2/3 of the way up pitch, ummmm, 1  Or rap it with a crowbar. Ummm, no. I think it'll be better to just change the line a bit (ie. a lot). That said, I'm really not in much of a hurry to go back there right away. I'm more likely to head straight for the potential aid lines with the even shorter appraoch (50m) on the same cliff. But you never know. I may do it, as we didn't really need to do any cleaning to climb the line. The line Skinner was on is a different story... he had to clean almost every move, something I was surprised to hear as his line actually looked better tahn ours from the base of the cliff.
You could also try Sika to supplement the crowbar.
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chossmonkey
Jul 21, 2008, 5:46 PM
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One cliff we went to in Quebec actually had a big flake/block reinforced with rebar.
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the_climber
Jul 21, 2008, 5:46 PM
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Yeah, 30°C here and quite humid for Calgary/Southern Alberta... Feels more like Onterrible heat than Alberta heat right now.
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chossmonkey
Jul 21, 2008, 5:52 PM
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the_climber wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. I've been working. L'habitant is working and doesn't have internet at home anymore. Until it gets fixed. Rebecca is busy at work. WMD is burning gas. Art is pretending to be climbing. The donnys are temporarily on the run. Doc is necromancing. Who did I forget? I have had a shitty day. I am currently going through far too much programming to figure out what we can remove so my problems never happen to anyone else. This will take at least the rest of the week. I took the line down for about an hour today (well, not me. My electrician, but it ends up being my responsibility in the end). I have been waiting for someone to yell at me or give me a guilt filled sit down talk about what I did wrong and how I can never let something like that happen again. I hate my job. There is alway cold beer at the end of the day.
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chossmonkey
Jul 21, 2008, 5:54 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. I've been working. L'habitant is working and doesn't have internet at home anymore. Until it gets fixed. Rebecca is busy at work. WMD is burning gas. Art is pretending to be climbing. The donnys are temporarily on the run. Doc is necromancing.giving handjobs to midgets. Who did I forget? It's monday, remember?
I figured it was a safe guess.
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chossmonkey
Jul 21, 2008, 5:56 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote: It's 90 degrees and fucking humid today. fucking redonkuluous.
Fixed it for you.
I think we made a mistake by opening the windows last night. The temp was cool, but the air we let in was really humid.
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the_climber
Jul 21, 2008, 6:00 PM
Post #4783 of 26795
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chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: the_climber wrote: Shitty Doc. doesn't bother me none. easier to do that than carry the fat bastard down the stairs. You reverted to your Army training and left him for dead? He who learns to run away lives to run another day. Minstrel: [singing] Brave Sir Doc ran away... Sir Doc: *No!* Minstrel: [singing] bravely ran away away... Sir Doc: *I didn't!* Minstrel: [singing] When danger reared its ugly head, he bravely turned his tail and fled. Sir Doc: *I never did!* Minstrel: [singing] Yes, brave Sir Doc turned about, and valiantly, he chickened out. Sir Doc: *Oh, you liars!* Minstrel: [singing] Bravely taking to his feet, he beat a very brave retreat. A brave retreat by brave Sir Doc. Aren't you supposed to be climbing today? I left for climbing shortly after I posted that. New route, 5.8 145-150m really not worth mentioning unless I go back there and find a significant variation that finds much better rock.... starting at about 2/3 of the way up pitch, ummmm, 1 Or rap it with a crowbar. Ummm, no. I think it'll be better to just change the line a bit (ie. a lot). That said, I'm really not in much of a hurry to go back there right away. I'm more likely to head straight for the potential aid lines with the even shorter appraoch (50m) on the same cliff. But you never know. I may do it, as we didn't really need to do any cleaning to climb the line. The line Skinner was on is a different story... he had to clean almost every move, something I was surprised to hear as his line actually looked better tahn ours from the base of the cliff. Define cleaning. You could also try Sika to supplement the crowbar.
Well, lack of cleaning for me meant that I only had to move a few pieces of loose rock to grab the hold.
Cleaning for Skinner ment he had to excavate holds and placement (which weren't many, a single Hex and a very partially driven Lost Arrow pin) upto and including releasing a 150 pound mass of rock.
You should ask Grant about "extensive Cleaning" in Grotto.
One of the routes Skinner, his son, and his son's friend put up on a long weekend was named "Bowling for Tourists" after a compleatly unexpected (and unavoidable) release of a large block. The block actually weighed as much as Skinner, who had to hold it with his shoulder while his shoes skidded slowly down the slab all while yelling at the tourons to "get the Fuck out of the way!" because they couldn't understand what "move out of the way, a H U G E rock is about to fall on top of you!" ment. Well the "Get the Fuck out of the way" apparently ment "come stand underneath us with your big ass cameras and take pictures of us" to the tourons. (fucking retards) After a good 10 minites Ol' Skinner just couldn't hold onto the block any longer and it slid off his shoulder (missed his rope) and accelerated towards the Darwin award seeking tourons. It missed thankfully. Moments later the same tourons were seen standing underneath the Big horn sheep that were sending down a steady rain of heathy sized rocks. Somedays I think some tourons are supposed to be separated from the gene pool.
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stymingersfink
Jul 21, 2008, 6:02 PM
Post #4784 of 26795
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the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: the_climber wrote: Shitty Doc. doesn't bother me none. easier to do that than carry the fat bastard down the stairs. You reverted to your Army training and left him for dead? He who learns to run away lives to run another day. Minstrel: [singing] Brave Sir Doc ran away... Sir Doc: *No!* Minstrel: [singing] bravely ran away away... Sir Doc: *I didn't!* Minstrel: [singing] When danger reared its ugly head, he bravely turned his tail and fled. Sir Doc: *I never did!* Minstrel: [singing] Yes, brave Sir Doc turned about, and valiantly, he chickened out. Sir Doc: *Oh, you liars!* Minstrel: [singing] Bravely taking to his feet, he beat a very brave retreat. A brave retreat by brave Sir Doc. Aren't you supposed to be climbing today? I left for climbing shortly after I posted that. New route, 5.8 145-150m really not worth mentioning unless I go back there and find a significant variation that finds much better rock.... starting at about 2/3 of the way up pitch, ummmm, 1 Or rap it with a crowbar. Ummm, no. I think it'll be better to just change the line a bit (ie. a lot). That said, I'm really not in much of a hurry to go back there right away. I'm more likely to head straight for the potential aid lines with the even shorter appraoch (50m) on the same cliff. But you never know. I may do it, as we didn't really need to do any cleaning to climb the line. The line Skinner was on is a different story... he had to clean almost every move, something I was surprised to hear as his line actually looked better tahn ours from the base of the cliff. Define cleaning. You could also try Sika to supplement the crowbar. Well, lack of cleaning for me meant that I only had to move a few pieces of loose rock to grab the hold. Cleaning for Skinner ment he had to excavate holds and placement (which weren't many, a single Hex and a very partially driven Lost Arrow pin) upto and including releasing a 150 pound mass of rock. You should ask Grant about "extensive Cleaning" in Grotto. One of the routes Skinner, his son, and his son's friend put up on a long weekend was named "Bowling for Tourists" after a compleatly unexpected (and unavoidable) release of a large block. The block actually weighed as much as Skinner, who had to hold it with his shoulder while his shoes skidded slowly down the slab all while yelling at the tourons to "get the Fuck out of the way!" because they couldn't understand what "move out of the way, a H U G E rock is about to fall on top of you!" ment. Well the "Get the Fuck out of the way" apparently ment "come stand underneath us with your big ass cameras and take pictures of us" to the tourons. (fucking retards) After a good 10 minites Ol' Skinner just couldn't hold onto the block any longer and it slid off his shoulder (missed his rope) and accelerated towards the Darwin award seeking tourons. It missed thankfully. Moments later the same tourons were seen standing underneath the Big horn sheep that were sending down a steady rain of heathy sized rocks. Somedays I think some tourons are supposed to be separated from the gene pool.
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the_climber
Jul 21, 2008, 6:03 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. Rebecca is busy at work. I have had a shitty day. I hate my job. There is alway cold beer at the end of the day. And maybe if she plays her cards right, AND washes her feet, she might get a foot rub.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 21, 2008, 6:29 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. I've been working. L'habitant is working and doesn't have internet at home anymore. Until it gets fixed. Rebecca is busy at work. WMD is burning gas. Art is pretending to be climbing. The donnys are temporarily on the run. Doc is necromancing. Who did I forget? I have had a shitty day. I am currently going through far too much programming to figure out what we can remove so my problems never happen to anyone else. This will take at least the rest of the week. I took the line down for about an hour today (well, not me. My electrician, but it ends up being my responsibility in the end). I have been waiting for someone to yell at me or give me a guilt filled sit down talk about what I did wrong and how I can never let something like that happen again. I hate my job. There is alway cold beer at the end of the day. And maybe if she plays her cards right, AND washes her feet, she might get a foot rub.
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 21, 2008, 6:48 PM
Post #4787 of 26795
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chossmonkey wrote: epoch wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. I've been working. L'habitant is working and doesn't have internet at home anymore. Until it gets fixed. Rebecca is busy at work. WMD is burning gas. Art is pretending to be climbing. The donnys are temporarily on the run. Doc is necromancing. Who did I forget? *cough* Are you sure you don't fit in with the donnys? If it makes you feel any better, I almost forgot Doc.
I'm quite sure.
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 21, 2008, 6:51 PM
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In other news, a climb I was really looking forward to getting on this weekend does not exist any more. The fate of climbs in our sport.
Backed off on a stellar splitter this weekend. I just wasn't feeling it, what, with the 85 degree heat and 90% humidity. No matter how much chalk I had on my hands I couldn't get them to stay in the crack. It was a nasty fall onto some ledges and I didn't really want to risk it.
Mundays, suck. That is all.
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chossmonkey
Jul 21, 2008, 6:55 PM
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the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: the_climber wrote: Shitty Doc. doesn't bother me none. easier to do that than carry the fat bastard down the stairs. You reverted to your Army training and left him for dead? He who learns to run away lives to run another day. Minstrel: [singing] Brave Sir Doc ran away... Sir Doc: *No!* Minstrel: [singing] bravely ran away away... Sir Doc: *I didn't!* Minstrel: [singing] When danger reared its ugly head, he bravely turned his tail and fled. Sir Doc: *I never did!* Minstrel: [singing] Yes, brave Sir Doc turned about, and valiantly, he chickened out. Sir Doc: *Oh, you liars!* Minstrel: [singing] Bravely taking to his feet, he beat a very brave retreat. A brave retreat by brave Sir Doc. Aren't you supposed to be climbing today? I left for climbing shortly after I posted that. New route, 5.8 145-150m really not worth mentioning unless I go back there and find a significant variation that finds much better rock.... starting at about 2/3 of the way up pitch, ummmm, 1 Or rap it with a crowbar. Ummm, no. I think it'll be better to just change the line a bit (ie. a lot). That said, I'm really not in much of a hurry to go back there right away. I'm more likely to head straight for the potential aid lines with the even shorter appraoch (50m) on the same cliff. But you never know. I may do it, as we didn't really need to do any cleaning to climb the line. The line Skinner was on is a different story... he had to clean almost every move, something I was surprised to hear as his line actually looked better tahn ours from the base of the cliff. Define cleaning. You could also try Sika to supplement the crowbar. Well, lack of cleaning for me meant that I only had to move a few pieces of loose rock to grab the hold. Cleaning for Skinner ment he had to excavate holds and placement (which weren't many, a single Hex and a very partially driven Lost Arrow pin) upto and including releasing a 150 pound mass of rock. You should ask Grant about "extensive Cleaning" in Grotto. One of the routes Skinner, his son, and his son's friend put up on a long weekend was named "Bowling for Tourists" after a compleatly unexpected (and unavoidable) release of a large block. The block actually weighed as much as Skinner, who had to hold it with his shoulder while his shoes skidded slowly down the slab all while yelling at the tourons to "get the Fuck out of the way!" because they couldn't understand what "move out of the way, a H U G E rock is about to fall on top of you!" ment. Well the "Get the Fuck out of the way" apparently ment "come stand underneath us with your big ass cameras and take pictures of us" to the tourons. (fucking retards) After a good 10 minites Ol' Skinner just couldn't hold onto the block any longer and it slid off his shoulder (missed his rope) and accelerated towards the Darwin award seeking tourons. It missed thankfully. Moments later the same tourons were seen standing underneath the Big horn sheep that were sending down a steady rain of heathy sized rocks. Somedays I think some tourons are supposed to be separated from the gene pool. 
That also kinda reminds me of a route Frank and I put up on the Tower. Near the top I came upon two pretty good sized rocks that moved when I touched them. The first was football sized and I picked up and threw. It shot out across the talus field and nearly made the trail. The second was so heavy all I could do was roll it off and push it away as it fell by. Thankfully that one missed Frank and then exploded on impact with the ground.
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chossmonkey
Jul 21, 2008, 6:58 PM
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epoch wrote: chossmonkey wrote: epoch wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. I've been working. L'habitant is working and doesn't have internet at home anymore. Until it gets fixed. Rebecca is busy at work. WMD is burning gas. Art is pretending to be climbing. The donnys are temporarily on the run. Doc is necromancing. Who did I forget? *cough* Are you sure you don't fit in with the donnys? If it makes you feel any better, I almost forgot Doc. I'm quite sure.
Sorries.
Don't banz me Bro!!!
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granite_grrl
Jul 21, 2008, 6:58 PM
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the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. Rebecca is busy at work. I have had a shitty day. I hate my job. There is alway cold beer at the end of the day. And maybe if she plays her cards right, AND washes her feet, she might get a foot rub. To fuckin' funny!
(This post was edited by granite_grrl on Jul 21, 2008, 7:07 PM)
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chossmonkey
Jul 21, 2008, 7:09 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. Rebecca is busy at work. I have had a shitty day. I hate my job. There is alway cold beer at the end of the day. And maybe if she plays her cards right, AND washes her feet, she might get a foot rub. To fuckin' funny! Well, I do have to wear steel toed safety shoes all day. I can't really blame him.
And the feet.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 21, 2008, 7:23 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: granite_grrl wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. Rebecca is busy at work. I have had a shitty day. I hate my job. There is alway cold beer at the end of the day. And maybe if she plays her cards right, AND washes her feet, she might get a foot rub. To fuckin' funny! Well, I do have to wear steel toed safety shoes all day. I can't really blame him. It's not the shooz, its the synthetic socks. And the feet.
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chossmonkey
Jul 21, 2008, 7:36 PM
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the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Sounds like a good way to get your cliff closed. Closures aren't common around here, but I've seen bigger and more rocks come off that face from goats on any given day. Besides there are "Watch for Falling Rock" signs all over that area.
Tourons don't see it that way. They see climbers trundling rocks as wrecking stuff. And arguably it is a little reckless to be trundling when there are people around.
It only takes one touron making a phone call to the wrong person to get the problems started.
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 21, 2008, 7:57 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote: chossmonkey wrote: granite_grrl wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. Rebecca is busy at work. I have had a shitty day. I hate my job. There is alway cold beer at the end of the day. And maybe if she plays her cards right, AND washes her feet, she might get a foot rub. To fuckin' funny! Well, I do have to wear steel toed safety shoes all day. I can't really blame him. It's not the shooz, its the synthetic socks. And the feet. climber not shoooz!
I like tube-style belay devices over the gri-gri.
[btw: obtained the Reverso 3 this weekend. Far superior to the ATCGuide.]
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the_climber
Jul 21, 2008, 8:06 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Sounds like a good way to get your cliff closed. Closures aren't common around here, but I've seen bigger and more rocks come off that face from goats on any given day. Besides there are "Watch for Falling Rock" signs all over that area. Just sayin' Tourons don't see it that way. They see climbers trundling rocks as wrecking stuff. And arguably it is a little reckless to be trundling when there are people around. It only takes one touron making a phone call to the wrong person to get the problems started.
Yeah, but this one wasn't "trundling". He smeered up to the Block, looked at it and it released! He caught it on his shoulder.
As for irresponsible rock release... the sheep there release H U G E rocks all the time.
But, Tourons are dumb and we can all agree on that.
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the_climber
Jul 21, 2008, 8:08 PM
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epoch wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: chossmonkey wrote: granite_grrl wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. Rebecca is busy at work. I have had a shitty day. I hate my job. There is alway cold beer at the end of the day. And maybe if she plays her cards right, AND washes her feet, she might get a foot rub. To fuckin' funny! Well, I do have to wear steel toed safety shoes all day. I can't really blame him. It's not the shooz, its the synthetic socks. And the feet. climber not shoooz! I like tube-style belay devices over the gri-gri. [btw: obtained the Reverso 3 this weekend. Far superior to the ATCGuide.]
Had to retire my original (yes original, not the 2nd gen one with the ridges) Reverso a couple weeks ago. I was getting t3e Sharpz edgez! 
Still waiting for someone to get the Reverso 3 in stock here... As I cannot find my old stitch plate (my first belay device) I have had to resort to t3e ATC 
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jul 21, 2008, 8:20 PM
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the_climber wrote: But, Tourons are dumb and we can all agree on that.
Yore rong!
Oh wait, that was correct.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 21, 2008, 8:21 PM
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epoch wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: chossmonkey wrote: granite_grrl wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Slow day in here. Rebecca is busy at work. I have had a shitty day. I hate my job. There is alway cold beer at the end of the day. And maybe if she plays her cards right, AND washes her feet, she might get a foot rub. To fuckin' funny! Well, I do have to wear steel toed safety shoes all day. I can't really blame him. It's not the shooz, its the synthetic socks. And the feet. climber not shoooz! I like tube-style belay devices over the gri-gri. [btw: obtained the Reverso 3 this weekend. Far superior to the ATCGuide.]
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Re: [epoch] The Lounge™
[
