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moonshine
Aug 15, 2002, 2:44 AM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Mar 23, 2002
Posts: 71
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i bring a rack and a half but try not to place it unless i need it (hideous fall potential, for example). the more i push my comfort level (running it out) the larger my comfort level gets and the more i trust my abilities and judgement. also, on slab, 4 bolts per 160 feet forces you to CLIMB the rock instead of climbing the rack. if your hand is number 2 size, there's no reason to ever place a number two.
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apollodorus
Aug 15, 2002, 4:00 AM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
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Walls are the great, level playing field. You don't have to be either Evel Knievel, or Richard Simmons. You clip a 5mm tag line to the back of your harness, carry a light rack, and then hand-over-hand whatever you forgot to bring with you.
This technique is probably also valuable for that trad pitch that starts out thin, then gets into the wide stuff above. Why do a finger crack with #4 Camalots flailing you, when you can bring them up later? You can also tag up water and the Pack to the belay this way.
Even sport climbers on first ascent can climb light, then haul up the bolt kit when they get to that tiny foothold that seems like a giant ledge after all that 5.XX thin face/smearing.
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coldclimb
Aug 15, 2002, 4:28 AM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
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I bring everything that I might possibly need on the climb. I don't like lowering off and seeing 20 feet between pro. Doesn't bug me while climbing, cause I just don't notice, but afterwards I look and go, "AAAAAAHHHHH!"
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coach
Aug 15, 2002, 3:03 PM
Post #29 of 34
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Registered: May 11, 2001
Posts: 3348
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I would also say Boy Scout! On single pitch it is easier to pare it down to what you think you need and maybe add a couple small to medium pieces. On multi pitch I take the kitchen sink. Lead will take what they want for each pitch and second will bring up the rest. Seems to work fine for me.
Climb On
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hishopper
Aug 15, 2002, 3:42 PM
Post #30 of 34
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Registered: Jan 10, 2002
Posts: 387
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Daredevil to the max: that is, I don't place pro myself yet, so I exist on the skills of my lead partner - fortuneatly he falls more into the BoyScout category.
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climbera5
Aug 22, 2002, 2:03 AM
Post #31 of 34
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 16
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One pitch, I carry only what I need. Multi-pitch I carry a full rack and leave behind the big stuff if I don't need it. Weight adds up on a grade IV or V so I like to conserve where possible. If I'm on a long moderate I usually climb until I'm uncomfortable with the next move and then I'll look for a placement. So on many pitches I'll arrive at the belay with a nearly full rack.
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icecap
Aug 22, 2002, 3:10 AM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Jul 5, 2002
Posts: 24
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Definitly a Boyscout I love climbing but it's just a sport and I'm not gonna kill myself doing it so I play it safe and live.
Tony
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rockunderfoot
Aug 22, 2002, 3:33 AM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Dec 28, 2001
Posts: 82
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I'm a boy scout I carry my entire rack on any lead. I only probably have a small to medium rack that's growing, but I figure it's good experience to climb with the hinderence. Plus those #10 and 11 hexes sound cool
After this one climb my friend and I each led, we figured we were probably the only ones to place 8-9 pieces on the 40 ft line, so having it all along is probably good for now anyways.
[ This Message was edited by: rockunderfoot on 2002-08-21 20:34 ]
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whipper
Aug 22, 2002, 3:59 AM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241
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when in doubt, run it out. you place to much and you get burned. My partner this friday ran out a 100 foot section five pitches of the deck. I dont place if im not gonna fall. Not for every one mind you but you did ask.
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