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unrooted
Mar 4, 2008, 5:36 PM
Post #26 of 28
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Registered: Mar 13, 2003
Posts: 840
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do you have any experience with wedge bolts like these:
http://www.fixeusa.com/...stud_wedge_bolts.htm
Also, if you were to use the triplex's would placing a rubber washer between the hanger and the rock/sleeve be good?
(This post was edited by unrooted on Mar 4, 2008, 5:40 PM)
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chossmonkey
Mar 4, 2008, 5:59 PM
Post #27 of 28
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
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Yes, but if I use studs like that I normally use Hilti. You would likely be better to buy non-Fixe studs from somewhere other than Fixe as they are just reselling them. If you buy them in bulk from a fastener supply you can probably get them for cheaper. Stud bolt strength can vary greatly so make sure you buy from a reputable manufacturer. Or just buy the Fixe studs as they are made for climbing and super strong.
In limestone the Triplex would probably be better as they have a larger diameter. Because it has a full sleeve the Triplex would also be more forgiving if you hit softer rock inside the hole. In soft rock or if installed into a pocket the clip on stud bolt can work its way right off and the stud will come out leaving the clips in the hole.
Even if you put the flange behind the hanger the Triplexes can likely be removed and the hole reused someday when they need to be replaced unlike the stud bolts. Unless it is a botched bolt, with stud bolts all you can do is chop them, patch the hole and drill a new hole. If the rock is less than fantastic finding a good place to put the new hole can be a bitch since the first bolt was likely placed in the best place as far as rock quality and clipping go.
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