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gunkiemike
Jun 5, 2008, 1:08 AM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
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majid_sabet wrote: I own top brand ice screw for my own ice climbing but I got these for a climbing school I am putting together so student can build ice anchors for practice. You guys think these are that bad that they are not worth $8 new ?
Why use suspect gear in a professional setting?
Why have the students practice with gear they'll never use?
Why put your "school" at the unnecessary risk?
Suggestion - Just buy a bunch of end-of-season blems from BD for $20 apiece.
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fresh
Jun 5, 2008, 5:07 PM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Aug 7, 2007
Posts: 1199
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redpoint73 wrote: majid_sabet wrote: a competitor performing a test on another overseas Mfgs which makes similar product creates conflict of interest. Did I say something wrong ?
I trust the BD more than these Eastern Bloc "gear" companies. They don't even test their OWN gear, much less anyone else's.
(Entire reply boldfaced per previous recommendation by dutyje)
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stymingersfink
Jun 5, 2008, 5:21 PM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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fresh wrote: redpoint73 wrote: majid_sabet wrote: a competitor performing a test on another overseas Mfgs which makes similar product creates conflict of interest. Did I say something wrong ?  o be as good" and giving no actual evidence to back it up.
I trust the BD more than these Eastern Bloc "gear" companies. They don't even test their OWN gear, much less anyone else's.
(Entire reply boldfaced per previous recommendation by dutyje)ng. ma ybe add some pictures?
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skinner
Jun 6, 2008, 5:12 PM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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Something's just not right here.. all these posts and not one "Majid Takes a Flying Leap on $8 Ebay Screws" ..Challenge?
It's a good idea Majid, you could present it to your students like this; "After you hit a rock or two while placing your brand new BD turbo express screws (and have no idea how to sharpen them), they'll probably go in something like this.." and pass out the $8 screws.
"Now everybody go get themselves into an insecure, desperate-type stance, a foot or two off the deck and practice placing these *special training screws*"
Then you could stroll around handing out advice..
*Tip: pecker yourself a bit of a starter hole.
........turn the screw back and forth cutting into
........the pecker hole until it bites before releasing
........your hand to wind the screw in.
You there.. what do you think you're doing?
........ Pull your ass in..
........ stand up straight..
........ and holster that new speed screw or you're outta here!
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majid_sabet
Jun 8, 2008, 6:37 AM
Post #30 of 32
(1690 views)
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
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I got them today, they are Irbis made in Poland and they appear to be a low QA type ice screws . I needed 10-20 set of screws that my students could use to practice on a 2-4 point anchor set up on secure vertical ice work . I do have BD ,camp,petzl and other high end model screws but for price one of the expensive one, I got 3-4 low end screws.
I feel, these for bail out and one time SOL solution, should work fine but for a serious ice climber who may take numerous fall, defiantly these are not recommended . At least not till some of them go through intense drop test.
Thanks for input.
MS
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redpoint73
Jun 10, 2008, 9:41 PM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1717
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I can't believe you actually bought them. I guess its true, you can make a fortune selling garbage on eBay.
What are you going to teach your students, what a crappy screw looks like?
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qwert
Jun 12, 2008, 10:16 AM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394
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Majid, the "Mr Safety" himself bought some questionable stuff from ebay?
That cant be.
How much did they cost? 10$ a piece?
I have one titanium screw. i did cost me 30€ (still much cheaper that most "normal" screws), it is manufactured for a respected manufacturer, and it is fully CE certified, but it still is total crap.
It takes hours to get that fucker in. And somehow the teeth are fucked, since it now produces a hole that is bigger than the threads, so you can pull it right out.
Edelrid now sells them as "only for glaciers" screws. Makes somehow sense, since you normally dont need them, and glacier ice is soft, but i wouldnt use them for that. In a crevasse rescue situation, i dont want to spend way to much time, fighting with a crap screw, while i have to hold the guy that has fallen into the crevasse, i rahter take my heavy and expensive BD with me, knowing that i can get it in the ice within seconds, should i need it.
For pure Training purposes? maybe, but if you encounter hard ice, or if someone hits the rock, you will spend so much time resharpening them, that you wish ¥ou would have gotten something better.
qwert
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