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angry
Apr 27, 2009, 3:19 PM
Post #26 of 64
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I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.
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bandycoot
Apr 27, 2009, 3:43 PM
Post #27 of 64
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Well, my mythos shoe laces are about to go south, and I highly doubt I can thread 6mm perlon through there so maybe you're onto something! 
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kachoong
Apr 27, 2009, 3:59 PM
Post #28 of 64
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angry wrote: PigsOnDrugs wrote: i fell mildly retarted for asking this but what carabeaners would you approve to put a chalk bag on your harness, because im sick of the strap and i need a beaner that is lightweight and semi-small for a tighter hold thanks for comprehending my stupidity  You might be mildly retarded.
See... he fell retarded for asking... like falling ill. If I were him I'd stop with the questions!
Seriously though, I clip mine to my haul loop with a regular biner (one that used to carry my nuts). If I were to use a cord that I may need to utilize later, where would I put my chalk bag then? Why not already have it clipped to a biner? Plus I've never been in a situation where I need to use that spare biner. If I get to a chimney or off-width where I have to use my back, I just move it to my belay loop instead.
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ptrendler
Apr 27, 2009, 4:01 PM
Post #29 of 64
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i usually just use a piece of cord, but if your totally into using a 'biner, hold out for the new full strength mini biners metolius is coming out with. i couldn't help but giggle when i saw the super tiny draws they are coming out with soon. but their might be some good times to be had with them.
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cracklover
Apr 27, 2009, 5:22 PM
Post #30 of 64
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angry wrote: Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back. Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency. Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too. Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!!
I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik.
No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry.
GO
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angry
Apr 27, 2009, 5:30 PM
Post #32 of 64
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cracklover wrote: angry wrote: I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette. But I can take the core out of my 6mm chalk bag cord and use it as a shoelace! G 
ASDF ASDF ASDF!!!
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robbovius
Apr 27, 2009, 5:41 PM
Post #33 of 64
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angry wrote: I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette.
hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Apr 27, 2009, 5:42 PM)
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robbovius
Apr 27, 2009, 5:46 PM
Post #34 of 64
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cracklover wrote: angry wrote: Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back. Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency. Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too. Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!! I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik. No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry. GO
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no_email_entered
Apr 27, 2009, 5:47 PM
Post #35 of 64
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robbovius wrote: angry wrote: I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette. hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree.
then you have to replace 'spare cordalette' with 'hand job'---
---or 'eye gouge'
(This post was edited by no_email_entered on Apr 27, 2009, 5:47 PM)
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robbovius
Apr 27, 2009, 5:55 PM
Post #36 of 64
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no_email_entered wrote: robbovius wrote: angry wrote: I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette. hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree. then you have to replace 'spare cordalette' with 'hand job'--- ---or 'eye gouge'
Oh I dunno, a hand job, while not a blowjob, certainly would set you off in the right direction.
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angry
Apr 27, 2009, 5:59 PM
Post #37 of 64
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robbovius wrote: no_email_entered wrote: robbovius wrote: angry wrote: I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette. hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree. then you have to replace 'spare cordalette' with 'hand job'--- ---or 'eye gouge' Oh I dunno, a hand job, while not a blowjob, certainly would set you off in the right direction.
How did this turn into another soloing thread?
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Lazlo
Apr 27, 2009, 6:24 PM
Post #38 of 64
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d0nk3yk0n9 wrote: ShibbyShane wrote: blondgecko wrote: caleb_danner wrote: ShibbyShane wrote: One of those really small ones that isn't meant for climbing. I think that i would want one that is fer climbing just for emergency n such If you find yourself in such a dire emergency that you find yourself using your chalkbag biner in earnest, then you've really, truly screwed the pooch. That said, I keep my keys on a miniature Kong biner that's rated to 1.5 kN - but that's just because I'm a dork. Have to say, that's pretty cool. I didn't know they made little biners that were rated to hold ANY weight, let along 1.5kn! Metollius (at least I think it's Metollius) now makes a keychain-sized biner that's fully rated to climbing. I so want one for my keys (and yes, I'm a gear freak / dork as well).
Ooooo! I SO want one!
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cracklover
Apr 27, 2009, 6:26 PM
Post #39 of 64
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robbovius wrote: cracklover wrote: angry wrote: Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back. Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency. Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too. Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!! I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik. No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry. GO maybe it that I'm just so much heavier than you campussing showoffs, that I don't notice the weight, but I don't have a problem carrying enough - to be sure, quite often too many - slings that I don't need to canibalize my chalkbag strap.. ;-)
See, here's the thing: If I aim for the low end of the number of slings I need, then 95% of the time, I've got enough, 4% of the time, I just need one more (that's when the chalkbag comes in), and the other 1% of the time I start using cam slings.
You, on the other hand: 95% of the time you have more than you need. This doesn't just go for slings, it's a general methodology. Slings don't weigh much, but cams, nuts, etc - it all adds up. As I'm sure you've found on some of your slogs to the base of a climb in backcountry NH.
GO
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brotherbbock
Apr 27, 2009, 6:27 PM
Post #40 of 64
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shoo wrote: I user two steel lockers opposite and opposed. I find that I'm more comfortable with the open gate strength of the steel 'biners. Gotta have redundancy.
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Lazlo
Apr 27, 2009, 6:37 PM
Post #41 of 64
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brotherbbock wrote: shoo wrote: I user two steel lockers opposite and opposed. I find that I'm more comfortable with the open gate strength of the steel 'biners. Gotta have redundancy. i use a cordalette to equalize my chalkbag.
Sliding x? or tied off?
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Lazlo
Apr 27, 2009, 6:44 PM
Post #42 of 64
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I'm in the cord catagory. I use a 4mm cord. I've only needed it once. And it was a day when I also sacrificed both of my prussick slings too. It wasn't because of any mistake I made.
My partner and I headed up an old 8 pitch bolted route. All the anchors had fadded tattered webbing that needed replacing. I sacrificed both prussick slings and my chalk bag cord. And my partner gave up a few things as well.
Also
One of the safest climbers I know made a mistake in not taking enough draws up a sport route. He had to use his chalk bag biner on the last bolt.
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brotherbbock
Apr 27, 2009, 6:46 PM
Post #43 of 64
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Lazlo wrote: brotherbbock wrote: shoo wrote: I user two steel lockers opposite and opposed. I find that I'm more comfortable with the open gate strength of the steel 'biners. Gotta have redundancy. i use a cordalette to equalize my chalkbag. Sliding x? or tied off?
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robbovius
Apr 27, 2009, 6:57 PM
Post #44 of 64
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cracklover wrote: robbovius wrote: cracklover wrote: angry wrote: Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back. Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency. Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too. Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!! I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik. No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry. GO maybe it that I'm just so much heavier than you campussing showoffs, that I don't notice the weight, but I don't have a problem carrying enough - to be sure, quite often too many - slings that I don't need to canibalize my chalkbag strap.. ;-) See, here's the thing: If I aim for the low end of the number of slings I need, then 95% of the time, I've got enough, 4% of the time, I just need one more (that's when the chalkbag comes in), and the other 1% of the time I start using cam slings. You, on the other hand: 95% of the time you have more than you need. This doesn't just go for slings, it's a general methodology. Slings don't weigh much, but cams, nuts, etc - it all adds up. As I'm sure you've found on some of your slogs to the base of a climb in backcountry NH. GO
Gabe, no matter how I try, and I have, for the semi-backcounrty rope solo trips, if I have to camp, its a 65lb pack. minimum. what doesn't kill me, makes me stronger. ;-)
you should see my rack these days, its 50% what it was when you clowns talked me into leading High E in 2006.
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bill413
Apr 27, 2009, 8:00 PM
Post #45 of 64
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angry wrote: robbovius wrote: no_email_entered wrote: robbovius wrote: angry wrote: I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette. hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree. then you have to replace 'spare cordalette' with 'hand job'--- ---or 'eye gouge' Oh I dunno, a hand job, while not a blowjob, certainly would set you off in the right direction. How did this turn into another soloing thread? 
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cracklover
Apr 27, 2009, 9:21 PM
Post #46 of 64
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robbovius wrote: cracklover wrote: robbovius wrote: cracklover wrote: angry wrote: Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back. Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency. Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too. Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!! I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik. No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry. GO maybe it that I'm just so much heavier than you campussing showoffs, that I don't notice the weight, but I don't have a problem carrying enough - to be sure, quite often too many - slings that I don't need to canibalize my chalkbag strap.. ;-) See, here's the thing: If I aim for the low end of the number of slings I need, then 95% of the time, I've got enough, 4% of the time, I just need one more (that's when the chalkbag comes in), and the other 1% of the time I start using cam slings. You, on the other hand: 95% of the time you have more than you need. This doesn't just go for slings, it's a general methodology. Slings don't weigh much, but cams, nuts, etc - it all adds up. As I'm sure you've found on some of your slogs to the base of a climb in backcountry NH. GO Gabe, no matter how I try, and I have, for the semi-backcounrty rope solo trips, if I have to camp, its a 65lb pack. minimum. what doesn't kill me, makes me stronger. ;-) you should see my rack these days, its 50% what it was when you clowns talked me into leading High E in 2006.
That's great! BTW, I don't want to give the wrong impression - everyone should take as much gear as they need to feel safe. Trimming a rack below what you feel comfortable with is never a good idea.
Cheers,
GO
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shockabuku
Apr 27, 2009, 9:27 PM
Post #47 of 64
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robbovius wrote: angry wrote: I just feel that a spare shoelace has more potential to make me have a nice day than a spare cordallette. hmm. if you replace "spare showlace" with "blowjob", then I agree.
Lazlo wrote: Ooooo! I SO want one!
I have to agree!
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shockabuku
Apr 27, 2009, 9:30 PM
Post #48 of 64
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cracklover wrote: robbovius wrote: cracklover wrote: angry wrote: Straps are bulky and annoying but they do allow you to move your bag from exactly in the back. Some people thought they'd get smart and replace the strap with a piece of cordalette material. That way they could use it in an emergency. Personally, I don't do this. I'm not one to count on my chalkbag to save my ass. This goes for the "climbing biner on my bag" crowd too. Stop having epics that your only your chalkbag can save you from!!! I use a 6mm cord. I probably use my chalk bag as a sling around three or four times a year. Works better than cam slings. And once or twice I've used it as a prussik. No epics were involved in any of these cases, though. Sorry. GO maybe it that I'm just so much heavier than you campussing showoffs, that I don't notice the weight, but I don't have a problem carrying enough - to be sure, quite often too many - slings that I don't need to canibalize my chalkbag strap.. ;-) See, here's the thing: If I aim for the low end of the number of slings I need, then 95% of the time, I've got enough, 4% of the time, I just need one more (that's when the chalkbag comes in), and the other 1% of the time I start using cam slings. You, on the other hand: 95% of the time you have more than you need. This doesn't just go for slings, it's a general methodology. Slings don't weigh much, but cams, nuts, etc - it all adds up. As I'm sure you've found on some of your slogs to the base of a climb in backcountry NH. GO
So, uh, do you tie your shoes with an extra cam or something? I mean, what do you do when you run out of those? Surely you must normally carry some extra (or turns out to be extra) something?
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cracklover
Apr 27, 2009, 9:33 PM
Post #49 of 64
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Guess you skipped the post where I said that?
GO
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shockabuku
Apr 27, 2009, 9:35 PM
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cracklover wrote: Guess you skipped the post where I said that? GO
Wait, you said you tie your shoes with an extra cam?
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