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shoo
Sep 3, 2010, 5:45 PM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
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whipper wrote: Crux is not an idiot, I carry 2 sets of cams and one of them is racked with an OP Jake locker on each, just in case I need to bail, or if I am going to run it out from the piece. If you use the auto lockers it is super easy and doesnt add that much weight.
Seriously?!?!?
Let's do some math here:
OP Jake auto locker weighs 105 grams
BD Neutrino weighs 36 grams. There are much lighter out there, this was just picked as the most common racking 'biner.
Let's make a conservative assumption and say that you racked 7 cams with autolocking jakes instead of something normal like neutrinos, you have added over a pound to your rack. That's right, 1 full pound for only 7 cams because of a poor choice of racking 'biner.
That's not to mention that autolockers are a pain in the ass, and OP jakes take up twice as much room or more on your gear loops.
If you need to bail or want a locker on a piece for another reason, are you really telling me you don't have another locker to use? Hell, you don't even really need a locker as a bail 'biner if you're desperate; any old 'biner will do the job.
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whipper
Sep 3, 2010, 5:57 PM
Post #27 of 31
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Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241
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I think that once we start comparing weight to safety, some one is looking to get hurt. I would much rather carry up an extra pound if it means that I am going to be going home to my family at night.
I mean a pound is not that much....it is only 1/190th of what I weigh...
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shimanilami
Sep 3, 2010, 6:14 PM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
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whipper wrote: I think that once we start comparing weight to safety, some one is looking to get hurt. I would much rather carry up an extra pound if it means that I am going to be going home to my family at night. I mean a pound is not that much....it is only 1/190th of what I weigh...
I think that if you start presuming that lockers add an appreciable margin of safety in this application, then you are looking to get hurt. A locker in this situation will make your pro harder to clip. How is that safer? And having extra weight on your rack will throw off your balance and slow you down. How is that safer?
And if you are trolling, then well played.
(This post was edited by shimanilami on Sep 3, 2010, 6:18 PM)
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whipper
Sep 3, 2010, 6:20 PM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241
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shimanilami wrote: whipper wrote: I think that once we start comparing weight to safety, some one is looking to get hurt. I would much rather carry up an extra pound if it means that I am going to be going home to my family at night. I mean a pound is not that much....it is only 1/190th of what I weigh... I think that if you start presuming that lockers add an appreciable margin of safety in this application, then you are looking to get hurt. A locker in this situation will make your pro harder to clip. How is that safer? And having extra weight on your rack will throw off your balance and slow you down. How is that safer? And if you are trolling, then well played.
Thanks, I was quite proud of that troll, I felt as if it just might be believable. I have not doubt there were safety feaks out there who were agreeing with me
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shoo
Sep 3, 2010, 6:21 PM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
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whipper wrote: shimanilami wrote: whipper wrote: I think that once we start comparing weight to safety, some one is looking to get hurt. I would much rather carry up an extra pound if it means that I am going to be going home to my family at night. I mean a pound is not that much....it is only 1/190th of what I weigh... I think that if you start presuming that lockers add an appreciable margin of safety in this application, then you are looking to get hurt. A locker in this situation will make your pro harder to clip. How is that safer? And having extra weight on your rack will throw off your balance and slow you down. How is that safer? And if you are trolling, then well played. Thanks, I was quite proud of that troll, I felt as if it just might be believable. I have not doubt there were safety feaks out there who were agreeing with me
Dammit! Well played, sir.
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climbingaggie03
Sep 3, 2010, 7:33 PM
Post #31 of 31
(720 views)
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1173
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I like wire gates for racking cause they are easy to clip if you need to clip the rope direct or to clip a sling in.
I rack with BD oval wires, I started using them before biners started getting super light weight. If I had it to do over again, I'd do something lighter, but not the neutrinos, I think they're too small to clip easily, and I frequently clip my cams direct.
As far as trad draws, I set mine up with identical biners, both wire gates. I have some trango wire gates, some ovalwires, and some lightweight biners, they're all decent.
I think gear weight (within reason) is more of a factor during the approach, than during the climb. Since you're taking gear off and leaving it, 1/2 a pound or so at the start of a route isn't that big a deal, but if you have to carry extra weight everytime you're hiking, it starts to get a little tiresome, but that's just my two cents.
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