|
vegastradguy
Jul 16, 2003, 6:44 PM
Post #26 of 35
(5036 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
Stellar. loved the footwork. I thought for sure he had that jam above! so close, yet so far away!
:shock:
|
|
|
|
|
melonhead
Jul 16, 2003, 7:48 PM
Post #27 of 35
(5036 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 295
|
I agree with "jt512".
Although I can't view the clip. Mainly because I'm a computer putz.....dynamic belays are mandatory everytime!!!
|
|
|
|
|
rockprodigy
Jul 16, 2003, 11:48 PM
Post #28 of 35
(5036 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 1540
|
Holy $hit...He's:
-leading on terrain he can't down-climb
-falling on trad gear
and...
-using a dynamic belay
...well that just about covers three notorious discussions on this site!
|
|
|
|
|
kman
Jul 17, 2003, 12:17 AM
Post #29 of 35
(5036 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2001
Posts: 2561
|
nice clip
|
|
|
|
|
rhu
Jul 17, 2003, 3:26 AM
Post #30 of 35
(5036 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 242
|
Wow! Everything about that was so cool. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
tonydevo
Jul 17, 2003, 4:07 AM
Post #31 of 35
(5036 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 17, 2001
Posts: 77
|
guys, c'mon.
Big deal, he fell on a cam and it held. People take falls like that sportclimbing every day, did you watch sharma fall on Realization? Sandstone is so much better than limestone when it comes to trad gear and people take whips on limestone all the time. Properly placed trad gear with a dynamic belay will hold falls so get over the oohs and awwws. The climbing and technique on the other hand are brilliant, the backstep/stem is such a hard technique to learn and apply. You want to see exciting falls? watch an ice climber break an icicle and deck, that's worth and ooh and awww.
Dean is the God of crack.
get over the trad fall thing.
|
|
|
|
|
crack_climber
Jul 17, 2003, 4:35 AM
Post #32 of 35
(5036 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2003
Posts: 210
|
Great Post! Thanks for the link to the clip....I just keep watching it over and over again in awe.... :)
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Jul 17, 2003, 4:36 AM
Post #33 of 35
(5036 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
In reply to: You want to see exciting falls? watch an ice climber break an icicle and deck, that's worth and ooh and awww.
Actually, that's just being a straight-up vulture. If you're a Faces of Death kind of guy, I guess watching a nasty ice fall must be fun, but personally I find it unpleasant to watch something that I know is going to result in injury. Not a lot of people walk away from long ice falls unless it's on extremely steep stuff. I know some pretty serious (WI6 and up) ice climbers from my time in Vermont, and none of them like to fall on ice. Ever. There is a very good reason for that -- it's usually real bad.
I personally found the video compelling because of the tenuous, technique-intensive climbing and the decisive moment where "he's outta there". And 50' onto a tiny cam in sandstone is a significant fall -- say what you like, but I don't believe a great many sportclimbers take those kinds of falls.
As far as trad gear in limestone goes, about the only thing I'd trust would be threads. There has to be a reason that most limestone areas are sport areas, and I believe the dubious nature of removable pro is it.
|
|
|
|
|
norushnomore
Jul 17, 2003, 8:23 AM
Post #34 of 35
(5036 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414
|
Few more vids from the same page
http://www.bdel.com/community/vids.html
|
|
|
|
|
knuckles
Jul 17, 2003, 8:55 AM
Post #35 of 35
(5036 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 650
|
Oh Jeebus...
...great endorsement for camalots, wonder if the thing left skidmarks (in the crack, the sandstone one, not Dean's).... cool little footwork clinic....
I just want to know who caught that thing, I wanna buy that guy a beer.
|
|
|
|
|
|
