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Trad Climbers and Mountaineers: Favorite headlamp?
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smellyhippie


Dec 24, 2003, 4:04 AM
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I like the BD Gemini for alpine day stuff. Tikka is great for frontcountry/low commitment rock stuff, but I'd hate to be stuck in a snowstorm trying to do something productive.
Nate


bustinmins


Dec 25, 2003, 5:34 PM
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I received a myo-belt 5 for Christmas. I think the four cells will be a bit too heavy for basic trad climbing and summer hikes up 14'ers. However I think it is perfect for mountaineering and long snowshoe adventures from hut to hut. Thus I am going to have to look at this more closely. I am leaning toward returning this one to get a standard myo5 while at the same time I'm considering the zipka-plus for trad climbing and backpacking. The adjustable LED's on the myo are great and if they have the same LED's to the zipka-plus then that would be the one I'd use more often.

I truly appreciate your assistance and replies. You all have enabled me to make a much more informed choice in this matter.

Happy Holidays to everyone.

James


sglat


Dec 25, 2003, 8:41 PM
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Re: Trad Climbers and Mountaineers: Favorite headlamp? [In reply to]
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BD moonlight, one time I was in AP Euro, and this teacher that I dont get along with was being a jerk, and I asked him to turn on one of the lights so that I could see the notes that I was taking, and he said "no"...and I had my bd moonlight in my schoolbag from a trip that weekend, and I turned it on, and used it throughout my notes, I must sound like a retard....I guess you had to be there when my whole side of the class lit up. I thought it was hilarious....hmmm...im wierd.....


rckclimbergurl


Dec 27, 2003, 4:16 PM
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Re: Trad Climbers and Mountaineers: Favorite headlamp? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
BD moonlight, one time I was in AP Euro, and this teacher that I dont get along with was being a jerk, and I asked him to turn on one of the lights so that I could see the notes that I was taking, and he said "no"...and I had my bd moonlight in my schoolbag from a trip that weekend, and I turned it on, and used it throughout my notes, I must sound like a retard....I guess you had to be there when my whole side of the class lit up. I thought it was hilarious....hmmm...im wierd.....

Ummmmmmmmmm......okay...

:lol:


skiclimb


Jan 11, 2004, 9:20 AM
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I fyou are talking cold temps.... the Petzel Arctic.


bustinmins


Feb 1, 2004, 2:24 AM
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I now have three headlamps for all uses. :)

I guess one piece of gear isn't enough! :)

I have both models of the Myo-5(belt and standard) and the Tikka Plus.

Thanks for your input.


mrme


Feb 1, 2004, 4:16 AM
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Re: Trad Climbers and Mountaineers: Favorite headlamp? [In reply to]
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i own a petzl zoom for climbs . just got one of those led lights can't wait to try it out.


Partner hosh


Feb 5, 2004, 11:52 PM
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Re: Trad Climbers and Mountaineers: Favorite headlamp? [In reply to]
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I've got the Myo 3 and it's a pretty good lamp. I don't like the idea of the battery pack on your belt, too many wires. I DO like the double light source, though.


amanda


Feb 13, 2004, 3:01 AM
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First, congrats on considering Petzl headlamps. I know three different BD models that consistently crap out when you need them most. And Princeton Tech's battery units explode with some regularity. I had an old Petzl Zoom and it died just as I was trying to get off Touchstone in Zion. Not fun. So I recently got the Myo 5 with the standard battery pack and I really like it. Unless you're going to be in consistent sub-zero temps or are deeply concerned with pack weight, I'd go for the standard battery pack. Maybe do one of the smaller myos, if you've got a burly cold weather lamp.


jeffers_mz


Feb 15, 2004, 3:24 PM
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Re: Trad Climbers and Mountaineers: Favorite headlamp? [In reply to]
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The BD Moonlight originally had a problem with the wire from the battery pack to the LED unit, and many were replaced or returned. BD was replacing them for free and had the problem fixed before they rolled out the new version with the 4 position switch.

I have an older one, no problems to date, and the kids fight over it when we go out. Good light.


whatsupdoc


Feb 15, 2004, 4:09 PM
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Re: Trad Climbers and Mountaineers: Favorite headlamp? [In reply to]
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I think there are 2 answers to your question.

If you're asking for the best headlamp for cragging, I'd go with something light. Cragging itself implies you shouldn't be too far from the car, out too late (hopefully), or too high up. Petzl Tikka is my vote. Light, compact, but more light than something like the bd ion. Fits in a pocket or chalk bag.

For mountaineering, you need something with a lot more power. You need to be able to routefind in the dark, so your headlamp is really important. I personally own a petzl zoom, but if I was buying new I wouldn't get this: too heavy and the damn battery is huge. I would ge for the bg gemini or the myo 3 or something like that with a spotlight as well as LEDs for cooking, reading, etc. If you plan on being out in the cold a lot, go with the belt pack. However, I think they can be inconvenient, so I wouldn't buy one unless you do lots of long routes in bitter cold. WHen I'm in the extreme cold, I just keep an extra battery or two in my inside chest pocket.


emtclimber


Feb 17, 2004, 8:41 AM
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Re: Trad Climbers and Mountaineers: Favorite headlamp? [In reply to]
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I've got the myo 3 belt,and I love it, if your gonna be out in the cold I'd suggest the belt version since batteries don't last near as long when their cold.


timstich


Feb 17, 2004, 12:34 PM
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Re: Trad Climbers and Mountaineers: Favorite headlamp? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
...
For extremely cold temperatures (alpine starts ice climbing in canada for example) I revert to my Petzl Micro, using lithium batteries (which are far lighter, last longer, and are far more resistant to deep cold than regular alkaline batteries)

I've always thought about getting the Micro. I have a Mega and it's really just too big. I like the Ion as well. Got two of them. They are pesky to get the battery in and out of, but inexpensive enough to afford one for each pack to have in it all of the time.


Partner taualum23


Feb 17, 2004, 1:13 PM
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Re: Trad Climbers and Mountaineers: Favorite headlamp? [In reply to]
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traddad: I find it a little disturbing to disagree with you on the ION (Because I almost always heartily agree with you )
I carry one as am emergency light, as part of my, "I will almost definetly be down before dark, but hey, it's really light and tiny" kit. It's not ideal, but I got plenty of light out of it for a 2.5 mile hike out. This was on a trail I knew decently, true, but I am suprised to hear how little light you got out of it. Have you only had the one experience with it? Maybe a bad unit or battery?

On topic, by the way, I own the Myo 3, and it is a great light. The leds are great around camp or at a belay, and the main bright light is enough for alpine route finding.


bustinmins


Feb 17, 2004, 10:25 PM
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Well I finally got to use my head lamp! I was on a 12-mile snowshoe this weekend and got back to the trailhead a bit late. We hiked the last 2.0 miles in the black of night. I must say that I'm very happy with the Myo-5(standard) performance. The five-LED's provided adequate light for the hike out.

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