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climbtothebeet
Apr 7, 2004, 12:39 AM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Jan 31, 2004
Posts: 232
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In reply to: yeah, but the belay loop on my harness is slightly less complex than your average airplane. if you're gonna worry about backing up the belay loop you might as well sling a handtied swami around you as back-up for your sewn waist belt and forged buckle. and use two ropes. and two biners. maybe two belayers in case one fails - after all this is what the boy scouts do.
boy scouts dont do this...... dont diss us. yeah shure i edited this, but is it good form to curse?
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vegastradguy
Apr 7, 2004, 12:48 AM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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climbtothebeet- what the hell was that? was that necessary? please do us all a favor and edit that post...that's just bad form.
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sancho
Apr 7, 2004, 1:51 AM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Nov 20, 2002
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I for one no longer use a locking beener, no way! I have switched to using a steel master lock for belaying. (and not the key type, the one with a dial combination!)
There is no way I can accidentally undo that... :shock:
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imnotbob
Apr 7, 2004, 3:04 AM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Apr 5, 2004
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ok here's a solution if you are really conserned your belay loop will blow (yeah, right) that would serve another purpose too! :!:
rig a prusik, bachman, ... as a safety for your rappel (I assume that's what you are doing) and clip it to the belt of your harness (or tie it into your second harness if you are truly redundant). It should catch if your belay loop really blows plus you can stop and hang on rappel to take pictures and such if you want.
If you are climbing with the rope tied/clipped to the belay loop, you shouldn't. But if you are, you can rig this also and then when you get to your belay station (assuming you are multi-pich climbing), you can tie in with an 8 and use the friction knot to easily adjust your personal anchor to a comfy length (assuming its not a hanging belay).
nb
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paulraphael
Apr 7, 2004, 7:00 PM
Post #30 of 32
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Registered: Feb 6, 2004
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I'm just going to repeat part of rgold's post, because it is the only post in this entire thread that's informed by anything other than speculation and bad climbing education.
<>
Now go back and read the rest of his post again, do your best to forget every other post here (including this one) and go climb safely.
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lstockett
Apr 8, 2004, 7:14 PM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Nov 7, 2003
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In reply to: I for one no longer use a locking beener, no way! I have switched to using a steel master lock for belaying. (and not the key type, the one with a dial combination!) There is no way I can accidentally undo that... :shock:
You're nuts sancho! The rope could easily rub across the combination dial, turn it to the lock's combination and open it! Use the key type, and give the key to your belayer.
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vertical-rockrat
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Apr 8, 2004, 7:41 PM
Post #32 of 32
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In reply to: trust is a dangerous thing when the world is out to get you ! 2 belay loops 2 belay biners backup webbing tied to harness double rope technique now, if that single rusty 1/4 belay bolt will just hold ....
I first laughed when i read your post, because out of this whole thread it is the most obvious question. And secondly ummmmmmmm i thot a belay loop was getting solid static weight not KN forces? Or are these people who are climbing using only the belay loop to climb on? Personally the people who taught me to climb and who have done El Cap and other longer climbs instructed me like this.
Run your tie in thru the harness, and leg loops passing it thru the Belay loop, the pass thru has no real reason for it we just did it. The total fall is now taken on the harness and leg loops like intended. The belay loop is for BELAY no Climbing and falling on.
Now take a look at "asandh" post above and rethink your question. Your more worried about a solid sewed piece of material you can inspect prior to climbing, but you can not inspect your repeal point prior to your climb (on most sport routes that is). So you have to plan for it.
Well after learning slnig master training in the military. This is the ability to sling load a humvee from a helicopter, this is what i use to determine if my harness is safe or not. First is i look at the stitches, if more then 3 in a row, or 5 with in a one inch area are broke the harness is no good. Second if there is any cut thru fraying that is a half inch long, then it is no good. Personally any cuts make my harness unsafe to me. But the stiches are what i pay attention to the most. Once you have 3 next to each other, or 5 within one inch area, you now have a significant weak spot. That means that more stitches can break at anytime from any pressure or rubbing.
I agree with others, if your so dam scared of your equipment then you need not climb. Fear can save you but to much can make you hurt. Adding to many back ups can cause for missing the obvious. And so on.
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