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jimdavis
May 6, 2004, 5:36 PM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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In reply to: When I read about the issue of not being able to tell which biner is the rope end and with biner is the hanger end, I can think of a fairly easy solution. If you rack your quickdraws so that you always clip the hanger end biners to your gear loop, then it's fairly simple to figure out which biner to clip into the hanger, because that's the one you uncip from the gear loop. And then when you clean the quickdraws off bolts, just unclip the biner from the hanger and clip the same biner onto your gear loop. It's a fairly natural process.
That or use different types of wiregates. I use Trango's on the pro, and HotWires on the rope.
Or mark them differently. Two types of tape, or paint on one, tape on the other.
But considering that this is a sport climbing thread, and most sport climbers use closed slings...it should be pretty easy to tell which end is which.
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imnotbob
May 6, 2004, 7:04 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Apr 5, 2004
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My whole trad rack is made up of wire gate biners that I 'stole' from quickdraws - the draws were on sale making the cost per biner much less than if I bought them outright.
Now if I can figure out what to do with the leftover 8" slings:?:
BTW, this makes half my rack on bent gates - anyone see a problem with that? (although this question should probably be asked on the trad thread)
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jt512
May 6, 2004, 7:11 PM
Post #29 of 33
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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In reply to: Does anyone perhaps know how wire-gate and standard-gate biners compare on open gate strength?
Since the gate would be open, what difference would it make what type of gate it is?
-Jay
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cracklover
May 6, 2004, 7:28 PM
Post #30 of 33
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: Does anyone perhaps know how wire-gate and standard-gate biners compare on open gate strength? Since the gate would be open, what difference would it make what type of gate it is? -Jay
In reply to: In reply to: How could the type of gate make a difference when the gate is open? :? Good point :D Make that closed gate rather...
In gate closed strength, they are comparable.
GO
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brianinslc
May 6, 2004, 7:43 PM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
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In reply to: Got a question for y'all... my girlfriend recently gave me some draws to add to my rack as a gift, and they are wiregate's on both carabiners. Now, all the draws I have are only wiregate on the biner than I clip the rope into, the others are all regular carabiners. My question is- Is it fine to clip wiregates into anchors, or do I need to go buy some regular gate biners and remake these new draws?
I think it depends on the carabiner.
From my experience, Hotwires are especially prone to hanging up on a bolt hanger and don't easily reorient under a light load (or sometimes with a vigorous rope shake).
Go to a store and play with a few wire gates and bolt hangers. See which hang up with the gate/wire/nose on the hanger. That'd be a situation best avoided.
Hotwires have been known to fail at very low loads when loaded with the nose notch/wire interface hung up on a hanger (around 600 lbs?)...scary.
Brian in SLC
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bustloose
May 6, 2004, 9:23 PM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
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the easy solution is to use fatter ropes. ambler, if you had been climbing on an 11.5 then that rope wouldn't have come out baby.
it kills me that you guys argue about one 'biner being 'safer' than another based on the KN ratings... but then climb in skinnier ropes. you do know that 'biners aren't made to be 'just safe enough', don't you? a difference of a KN or two is not going to prolong your lifespan, although perhaps being a bit smarter would.
strange things happen, 'biners cross load and break, no one brand or style has done this more than another. it's a freak occurence when it happens.
'gate flutter' is a nice little marketing ploy to get you to buy wiregate biners. jesus christ people what were you climbing on before Metolius came along and saved your lives???
yes, wire gates are lighter. yes, some people prefer clipping wiregates. no, they are not so much safer that you need to buy them to keep on living.
petzl spirits, light, simple, no tooth on the gate opening, and wouldn't you know it, i'm still alive.
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junkie
May 7, 2004, 10:01 PM
Post #33 of 33
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Registered: Aug 23, 2001
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Bustloose, not sure I agree with one comment:
In reply to: strange things happen, 'biners cross load and break, no one brand or style has done this more than another. it's a freak occurence when it happens.
I have seen three broken Omega Pacific biners over the years. I have seen no DMM broken. Or Petzl. Or Black Diamond.
I will never buy Omega again.
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