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gat
May 13, 2004, 4:33 PM
Post #26 of 28
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Registered: Oct 3, 2003
Posts: 420
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I am, for the most part, self taught and I have enjoyed the experience. Of course, I could have progressed faster. At the same time, I think my lack of a teacher and my understanding that I could kill myself caused me to truely concentrate on every detail.
First my buddy and I taught our self to top rope using freedom of the hills. What a funny/scary sight that must of have been...two guys at the top of the crag tying knots - one holding the book to the right page and the other tying the knot. :shock:
Second, we taught ourself two sport climb...well, we did have a 30 second demonstration of what a back clip was.
Third, I read both anchor books and Self-Rescue (Fasulo) several times each. Followed that up with a 1/2 day of practice on the ground and close to the ground. Bounce testing is great to identify good/bad placements. The second half of the day was spent leading climbs I had TR'd.
Finally I found someone to take me multi-pitch trad climbing (up until this point I had only climbed w/ one person, and he was the guy holding the book while I tied the knot). Before he moved, I got to lead about 6 pitches with the benefit of an experienced leader checking my placements. I also got to follow about 6 pitches.
After he moved I practiced self rescue at the local one-pitch crag before I took my game to higher ground.
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asandh
May 13, 2004, 5:08 PM
Post #27 of 28
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
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:)
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tradbum
May 13, 2004, 9:05 PM
Post #28 of 28
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Registered: May 9, 2004
Posts: 128
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I was fortunate in that my Dad was a Teton Guide & Valley climber way back when and taught me about mountaineering and climbing 30+ years ago. All I knew was iron and nothing about "today's" current gear. I had to read up on that when I started climbing on my own, but the background in it put it all into perspective. (Until then I was mostly devoted to alpine stuff...Being married can put a damper on long trips...)
But you've got to beware learning from crusty old farts as well. My boss and I frequently climb with the president of our division, who has been climbing since the 70's. He's been up Taquitz 60+ times and is truly frightening to follow. He's a good climber but sucks at route finding and places gear with a very minimalist approach. I surprised he's still alive, but then again, I've never seen him slip or fall. My boss, who's only trad led 2-3 times learns everything from me (scary), but at least he's smart enough to spot the boss' bad placements. And some old school ways still hang on, like the hip belay. They're good to know.
When I was learning nuts, hexes, cams, etc., and buying a piece or two with every paycheck, I spent hours at unclimbed spots and placed, placed, placed. Reading only does so much to build your knowledge and even with the arsenal of information that's available nowadays, you also have to be 100% confident applying it.
If you can find a patient leader, one of the best things is to head to a local 1-pitch crag, let him/her get in some climbing to set up a fixed rope(s), then jug next to you as you place gear on toprope. I've done that with my boss on several ocassions, as well as with the kids that I instruct.
Climb safe!
Smitty
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