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chuffer
Jun 22, 2004, 1:03 AM
Post #26 of 44
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Registered: Jun 3, 2004
Posts: 135
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I used to do a pretty steep 45 min. to an hour to get to a certain semi secret granite crag in southern Utah. LOTS of 4th class through a very steep and strenuous boulderfield and some pretty nasty scree in a few areas. It was well worth every second. Cool temps in the summer, beautiful views, awesome setting, killer routes, and no people. I'm not sure if I would do the same approach for a lesser destination, though.
J
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okie_redneck
Jun 22, 2004, 2:01 AM
Post #27 of 44
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Registered: Apr 25, 2004
Posts: 303
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Some people refuse to go with me to my mom's house. Most of the routes still need cleaned. access is 4th class 300 feet down and 300 feet up on horrible scree with a bit of poison oak for flava. Oh, and on warm days in the winter, you can't walk 20 feet without running into a 5-foot or larger indigo snake because they have dens in cracks and caves and sometimes lunge at your face when you're not expecting anything. Anybody wanna come?
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musicman
Jun 22, 2004, 2:19 AM
Post #28 of 44
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Registered: Apr 16, 2004
Posts: 828
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the crux should not be in the approach :wink:
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bsignorelli
Jun 22, 2004, 3:12 AM
Post #29 of 44
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 415
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In reply to: 15 minutes? That's pretty nice! I've only been to one crag that was 15 minutes in.
15 minutes (or so) is about the norm for most popular areas (Sams Throne, HCR, Mt Mag, etc) in Arkansas. :)
Bryan
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 22, 2004, 3:26 AM
Post #30 of 44
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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It's all in the quality and quantity. 45 min. is about my limit for 6 nice 20 meter sport climbs but its nothing for a desert tower or 1000+foot tradline. Sport climbs by their very nature should have roadside access. Rumny, NRG etc. Longer bigger climbs are worth the hike. If a place has a whole boatload of 30 meter sportclimbs though it would be worth a considerable hike.
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catbiter
Jun 22, 2004, 4:23 AM
Post #31 of 44
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Registered: Nov 12, 2003
Posts: 177
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The lost crag in Connellsville has a hefty approach. About 45 minutes to a hour all uphill. It rocks though, so it's worth it.
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climbsomething
Jun 22, 2004, 4:36 AM
Post #32 of 44
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Registered: May 30, 2002
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Half an hour to 45 minutes pushes the limits of good taste for sport climbing, and best not all be uphill or boulder-hopping. If I wanted Geo-quads, I'd climb slabs.
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itakealot
Jun 22, 2004, 5:01 AM
Post #33 of 44
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Registered: Jul 8, 2003
Posts: 382
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this is what really sucks. You spend over $25 on the latest guidebook and hike one hour with final the approach to the crag a bushwack on an overgrown trail. Then when you get to crag it is all gritty choss, like no one has climbed it since the routes were developed.
Then it really sucks when you realized you just hiked an hour to get there and you have to hike an hour to get back to your car.
This is when it is too long of an approach to get to a crag.
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r6driver
Jun 22, 2004, 5:07 AM
Post #34 of 44
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 95
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I've never hiked too long to get to a crag - I'm sure I'll one day find my limit though...
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pbjosh
Jun 22, 2004, 6:07 AM
Post #35 of 44
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
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It's 45min - 90min to hike to Ceuse depending on what sector you're heading for, which trails you take, and how fit you are.
Considering that it's arguably the finest sport climbing on earth, it's a steal of an approach...
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pbjosh
Jun 22, 2004, 6:21 AM
Post #36 of 44
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: I usally use this equation Height x Hike x Quality ...... (5 quality, 20m height, short 12 min. uphill approach) top of Mount Woodson: 10.8 (9 quality, 10m height, 1 hr uphill approach) East Face of Mt Whitney: 12 (9.5 quality, 400m height, 24hr approach) J-tree, Hidden Valley Campground: 400 (9 quality, 25 m, 5 min approach)
Mission Gorge is about 30m in the area of The Wasp, etc, not that it helps it's quality much. Woodson is well under an hour to the top. Whitney E Face can be approached in 4-5 hours if you're fit, I don't know anyone who's taken more than about 8 and I've gotten to the base of the route in ~4 a few times.
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brutusofwyde
Jun 22, 2004, 3:05 PM
Post #37 of 44
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
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In reply to: Whitney E Face can be approached in 4-5 hours if you're fit, I don't know anyone who's taken more than about 8 and I've gotten to the base of the route in ~4 a few times.
Sometimes it has taken me up to 5 days of humping to get myself and all of my gear to the base of the E. Face of Mt. Whitney.
This August, I hope to be up there with everything in under 4 days, since I'll have a few extra folks to help shuttle gear..
It sucks getting old and slow.
Brutus
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pbjosh
Jun 22, 2004, 9:56 PM
Post #38 of 44
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: Whitney E Face can be approached in 4-5 hours if you're fit, I don't know anyone who's taken more than about 8 and I've gotten to the base of the route in ~4 a few times. Sometimes it has taken me up to 5 days of humping to get myself and all of my gear to the base of the E. Face of Mt. Whitney. This August, I hope to be up there with everything in under 4 days, since I'll have a few extra folks to help shuttle gear.. It sucks getting old and slow. Brutus
I'm gonna go with the assumption that you'll not be carrying gear for 4 days to climb the E Face or E Butt or similar, which is an assumption I was making in my approach times ;)
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wetrocks
Jun 22, 2004, 11:00 PM
Post #39 of 44
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Registered: Apr 22, 2002
Posts: 102
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It's the approach that keeps the fat off! Any crag less than a half hour hike away I consider close. Crags more than an hour in are cutting into climbing time. I tend to go to crags that have a bit of an approach cuz there's less chance of bumping in to other people.....and......to work off the winter padding.
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climbinjunkie
Jun 24, 2004, 12:50 PM
Post #40 of 44
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Registered: Oct 13, 2002
Posts: 8
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you know, if you find the right crag (out here in Montana), there's NO approach hike, and you can belay from the back of your truck with the stereo on :) But I've also been known to hike 3-4 hours of backcountry to find good climbing. I figure if it's a good climb, any hike is worth it, and if it's a good hike, then it's worth it by itself
Andy
==============
Remember:
If you don't have to sign a waiver,
It's probably not worth doing . . .
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gottarock
Jun 24, 2004, 1:23 PM
Post #41 of 44
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Registered: May 4, 2004
Posts: 129
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the longer the approach... the less populated the crag....
at Shelf Rd. a couple weeks ago, all the routes near the parking area were full.... we walked 10 minutes further and had our choice of a dozen great routes. go figure.
I don't mind hiking an hour to get on some great rock. thats probably why I'm more attracted to trad climbing.... my pack is bigger and heavier, the approaches are even longer and it makes my experience feel more like an adventure.
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haroldhal
Jun 28, 2004, 9:36 PM
Post #42 of 44
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Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 8
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Is it really hiking if you only have sport gear or is just walking?
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muncher
Jun 28, 2004, 10:02 PM
Post #44 of 44
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Registered: May 5, 2003
Posts: 454
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For me the distance to the crag is inversly proportional to the damage I can epect to happen to my car. For example, 15 sec walk in, rock on the roof, $450 insurance excess, 5 minute walk in, tree branch through the rear windscreen, $350 insurance excess, 45 minute walk in, nothing.
But really, can anything over 10 minutes really be classified as sport climbing, I mean it's just not in the spirit of it at all is it.
For me though, I am quite happy to walk 45 minutes ( Thats the longest sport crag approach in the Blue Mountains at this point in time) to do some sport climbing, as long as the crag is high quality. There is plenty of choss close to the road, no need to punish yourself any further for that.
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