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crackmd


Dec 3, 2004, 5:07 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
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I did score the knee bar. I found it by accident but it definitely helped. I look forward to working this monster, but the hand jams are just so damn good that I think leading it is definitely a possibility. I'll just clip one rope in with a carabiner and drop it when I no longer need its services as you recommended. I hope to video tape it since it's just such a killer line!

Josh

I tried using two ropes on MM once, it was a complete cluster. Just use one and either place your first piece fairly far from the stance, or back clean your last piece.

What created the cluster? It seems like just dropping one rope after a piece is placed over the roof would be real simple, but I have not actually done it, so I am curious about what went wrong. I am very apprehensive to commit all 4 extremities to the crack without a piece in. Even though it is bomber, you are fully committed and the fall is potentially fatal should you blow it.


Partner j_ung


Dec 3, 2004, 5:17 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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So did you lead it with one rope? I've thought about having the belayer up under the roof to reduce rope drag a little. Then the drag only occurs from the lip of the roof which should be more managable.

I'm hard at work on a review of the DMM Revolver, that crazy biner with the pulley built in. Might be just the ticket on this baby.


bandycoot


Dec 3, 2004, 5:20 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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:D Brilliant!


Partner j_ung


Dec 3, 2004, 5:29 PM
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:D Brilliant!

Thanks! And come to think of it, since most tradical routes tend to wander over, under and around roofiness, Revolvers might become the next great tradical innovation, opening up the realm of the tilted for the un-enduranced and the powerfully challenged! :lol: :lol:

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