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Helmets and unsafe patterns of behavior (rant)
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jcinco


Dec 16, 2004, 11:51 PM
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.......I have personally witnessed three events where wearing a helmet prevented a serious injury. Two involved rockfall and one a pendulum fall that resulted in a pretty hard crash into a corner. None of these were "the fault" of the climber.

Please explain why these events are not the fault of the climber.


double


Dec 17, 2004, 12:12 AM
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Regardless of whether it is the climbers fault when a rock comes down, or he/she falls poorly, shit happens, and head injuries do occur. All it takes is one screw up: a rock thrown by kids, a hold weakened by freeze/thaw, whatever. Anything can happen, and a head is not very forgiving. Kayakers wear helmets, and more often find them useful when slipping on shore then in the water. Most construction sites demand them, even when there is virtually no risk of falling objects. A helmet should be seen as a mandatory piece of protection. Who cares how the injury happens or who was responsible. Who cares if people who wear helmets develop the illusion that it will save them from unsafe climbing. Any sport that involves a risk of head injury should require a helmet...whether it changes your climbing style is up to you. But in the end, wearing a bucket and avoiding a fist sized rock making you a vegetable is a good investment.


cjstudent


Dec 17, 2004, 12:20 AM
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(I read most of your rant, but i think that was more typed than all of my posts put together)

Congratulations. U've been climbing for a long a$$ time and haven't seen a head injury. Good for U.

I've seen one head injury avoided by wearing a helmet. And another head injury from a climber who tripped on a ledge and went head first into a wall...he wasn't wearing a helmet and was knocked out. SAR ended up being called in.

I'll wear my helmet just in case. I don't know that it will make a difference or not, but it might help. I mean yea, if i take that 60 footer head first dive into the ground, i doubt my helmet will help much. I also don't make it a practice to use bad judgement and try and injury my head, or climb under obvious rock fall or other climbers. But man there is this little chance that a rock could fall off and hit me in the head. or heck, a stupid tourist throwing an apple off a cliff and it nailing me in the head. (yea sounds stupid but you would understand if you've been to ship rock on a summer weekend)

But why????
-For one, i mean geez, a helmet costs $50ish for the BD Half Dome
-It doesn't weight alot.
-Its not all that hot
-It might help you keep some heat in if its cold
-It might make u look like a dumb a$$ but there's a chance u might look like one anyways.
-theres lots of rocks at the base of climbs...they had to come from somwhere
-What does it hurt?!?!?!

I can't imagine you ever being in an accident, wearing a helmet and saying "MAN I'm glad I DIDNT wear my helmet!" But while you are throwing all of these statistics around, i bet there is a person or two who's had a climbing accident and said "Da## glad I wore my helmet!"

Yes, there is no replacing judgement for wearing a helmet. And I don't think that is a good comparison. Don't just look at the dumb a$$ climbers who wear helmets...I mean, there's lots of dumb a$$ climbers out there who don't wear helmets and do newbie stupid things over and over again, just asking for it.

I just dont think, that if i thought wearing a helmet was dumb and useless that i would care to share my thoughts on the subject, I'd just climb without a helmet and go on with my merry life. But u know man there is this small freaking chance that a helmet might make the difference in you climbing again or being a statistic.

(edit: kant speal)


jt512


Dec 17, 2004, 12:21 AM
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I will also say this. Just because someone plays at being a safety nazi doesn't guarantee that they are safe climbers.

Word.

Nice post, Dan.

-Jay


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Dec 17, 2004, 12:33 AM
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Regardless of whether it is the climbers fault when a rock comes down, or he/she falls poorly, s--- happens, and head injuries do occur. All it takes is one screw up: a rock thrown by kids, a hold weakened by freeze/thaw, whatever. Anything can happen, and a head is not very forgiving. Kayakers wear helmets, and more often find them useful when slipping on shore then in the water. Most construction sites demand them, even when there is virtually no risk of falling objects. A helmet should be seen as a mandatory piece of protection. Who cares how the injury happens or who was responsible. Who cares if people who wear helmets develop the illusion that it will save them from unsafe climbing. Any sport that involves a risk of head injury should require a helmet...whether it changes your climbing style is up to you. But in the end, wearing a bucket and avoiding a fist sized rock making you a vegetable is a good investment.
All in favor of irrational, arbitary authority say AYE.


joeschmoe


Dec 17, 2004, 12:35 AM
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I find it funny that alot of replies miss the point of OP, but oh well. I gotta agree helmets can bring a false sense of security. I know the first season me & snowboarding partner started wearing helmets our warcry that year was, "well we've got helmets" as we plunged into some stupid ariel that landed in nastiness. Helmets are there to protect you when good judgement can't, plain and simple. Murphey's law is a bitch and we're all subject to it, helmets just give us a slight edge over the house when shit hits the fan.


phxtradrock


Dec 17, 2004, 12:36 AM
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Ten lottery tickets is better than none :idea:

I think i'll keep wearing my helmet just in case one of those "once in a lifetime" accidents occurs.


lostdog


Dec 17, 2004, 12:38 AM
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if you wear your helmet, good for you, if you don't, good for you...
:deadhorse: 'nough said, climb on...


sspssp


Dec 17, 2004, 12:39 AM
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I wear a helmet in the mountains, (unless it's a ridge traverse) aid climbing, and rope solo. I have never had a climbing partner pull a gumbie could of killed me stunt with rock fall. When climbing in loose terrain, my climbing partners place gear in such a way that the rope doesn't knock anything down. They test hold before they pull on them and then they make sure pull less hard then anyone else. In the rare event that a hold does break off, they either hold on to it or they toss it in a safe direction. If it is too big to do the above, they will not pull it off in the first place.

So if you guys are so good that you can hang on to broken holds and casually toss them aside, I assume you don't ever fall either? So in addition to leaving the helmet at home, you might as well leave the rope, right?

Cheers


danpayne


Dec 17, 2004, 12:53 AM
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To the original poster,

Just out of curiosity, what are you trying to accomplish with your post/rant? Are you trying to persued people to not wear helmets? Are you looking for a bunch of people to say, "WOW, You are soooo right, you're my hero!"

Whats next people? Is someone going to try to convince me that Locking biners aren't worth the money because they've never seen a regular biner become unclipped?

Or maybe someone can argue that bullet proof vests aren't worth anything.
"Well, It is your own fault for getting shot, I mean, don't piss off people with guns...","plus they could shoot you in the head."


I think I'm done with these stupid helmet arguements. If you don't want to wear one, DON'T!!!!!! But for me, if I want to wear a stuffed badger on my head because I feel safer, then feck off, Thats what I'm going to do.


Partner euroford


Dec 17, 2004, 12:54 AM
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i didn't even read 10% of this stuff. but i'll add this.


i really don't mind wearing my helmet, and almost always do, and so does my partner. really, why not??


g
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Dec 17, 2004, 1:00 AM
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Whats next people? Is someone going to try to convince me that Locking biners aren't worth the money because they've never seen a regular biner become unclipped?
I have seen that.


danpayne


Dec 17, 2004, 1:05 AM
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For those of you who are curious about the stuffed badger thing, its actually this


http://www.geocities.com/eldeeder/petzlbad.jpg


I find it quite comfortable. Trango makes a beaver, but I don't wear that because it smells.


kman


Dec 17, 2004, 1:09 AM
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I sometimes wear a helmet. I do wear one while belaying. Ice climbing always. Trad always. Sport sometimes. T-r rarely. Depends where I am climbing too.

It seems to me that the original poster is not trying to talk people out of wearing helmets, but helping people realize that the safety they do give you is limited. They definately are not a replacement for good judgement. If I find that a place is too risky for rockfall, gumby fall ect...I don't grab my helmet and say "it's all good with my helmet on". If I wouldn't go there without then I won't go there with (excluding ice).

Dumbest quote of the year goes to:
In reply to:
one good reason to wear a helmet-- it helps you climb harder. You can worry about the consequences of a fall less and that lets you commit more.

What a STUPID thing to say!

Runner up:
In reply to:
Um... this is why you always ought to wear a helmet. I helmet is better protection against falling stuff than the belayer trying to move out of the way….

Good post Alpnclmbr1


guangzhou


Dec 17, 2004, 1:16 AM
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Re: the comparison between helmets and seatbelts. Wearing a seatbelt is equivalent to buying half of all the tickets. Wearing a helmet is more like buying ten tickets instead of one. (These seem like reasonable ballpark estimates, anyone want to take a shot at punching real numbers?.)

I don’t understand what you are talking about here. I assume you mean lottery tickets. If so, aren’t you more likely to win with ten tickets?



In reply to:
As far as falling and hitting your head on a rock? I have taken, belayed, or witnessed something on the order of 10,000 to 20,000 falls. Couple broken ankles and a bunch of dropped climbers sums up the injury tally. No concussions, no scalp injuries, maybe someone chipped a tooth. Never any helmets. The key was not falling in such a way as to hit your head. People seem to think that isn't possible. Practice shows that it is.
Actually, a a few occasions I have seen head injuries that would not have happened if the climbing had worn a helmet. In two occasions, the climber fell upside down.


In reply to:
As far as I can tell from anam and other sources, head injuries seem to be much more common in the mountains, and not just because of loose rock. The larger cause seems to be long tumbling falls. (mostly based on stories from various climbers that have taken falls in the mountains. They pretty much all got hurt.)

Most mountaineers wear helmets actually.


In reply to:
My biggest problem with the modern helmet crowd is that in practice, and among other things, it has replaced the DO NOT CLIMB UNDERNEATH OTHER PEOPLE rule. Lets see, which makes more sense? Wear a helmet in an effort to protect yourself from people dropping things on you or don't climb underneath the people in the first place?


How do you avoid climbing other parties on routes like “the Nose, Arches, and serenity” or other long all day multipitch routes? Are you recommending that I avoid a 20-pitch route because someone else is climbing it that day?


In reply to:
So the newbie crowd has discarded the idea of not falling on easy routes. Discarded the rule of not climbing under other people. Discarded the idea of learning how to follow before they start leading.
How do you follow without climbing other someone else?
In reply to:
Decided that dropping a rock on their partner, it isn't their fault. After all of that, they go out and buy a helmet and talk about how much safer they are because of it, and how anybody who doesn't wear a helmet must be stupid.




In reply to:
Let's take Tahquitz and Suicide for example. The increase in rock fall hazard is way out of proportion to the increase in climber traffic. It was getting crowded on weekends 15 years ago. There wasn't the same rock fall madness that there is today. If anything, it was more common to come close to getting hit by a figure eight. (The sound of a figure eight pinging down the weeping wall is something I will never forget)
(A helmet sure would help with those falling old school figure eights. )

In reply to:
There was a definite correlation between the increase in the use of helmets and the increase in the need to wear a helmet. People seem to be getting the helmet message pretty good. On the other hand, they do not seem to be getting the message that it is possible to climb without sending every other rock down the cliff. From what I have seen people are getting worse at this every year and the rocks that they are sending down are getting larger as well.
(What have you seen? )



In reply to:
I will not climb there on weekends anymore because I consider it an unreasonable and unnecessary risk
In reply to:
.(What do you propose for those who can only climb on weekends? Quit climbing?)
In reply to:
I climbed there for years without a helmet, I will still climb there mid-week without a helmet. The only rock fall that has ever hit me was small stuff from sudden thunder showers. If your of the opinion that wearing a helmet compensates for that additional risk, then I would have to say that you are deluding yourself.
(guess I am deluded.)

In reply to:
The main hazard that I use a helmet for is naturally occurring rock fall. That is in quite a contrast the reports on this site, which seem to be almost all climber caused.

(Rock fall is rock fall. Whether a climber causes it or natural causes, they are real. While toping out on Outer Space in Washington, I watched as a mountain goat sent loose rocks over the edge of the cliff, directly over the top of the last pitch.)

In reply to:
The old school way of things largely negated the need for a helmet in order to protect yourself from rock fall. (with the exception of natural rock and ice fall, typically in the mountains or on a wall.)
( I love that term, “OLD SCHOOL”. I wonder what this means most of the time. Old school guys were pounding pitons in, climbing on bowling in a coil, and using hip belays. How safe was all that.

In reply to:
I have seen a connection between wearing a helmet and taking lead falls. (particularly on 5.9's and under) The helmet crowd tends to forgo the idea of climbing within your limits. (Is anyone going to deny that the modern crew falls more often. Is anyone going to claim that is because falls are safe now?)
(Falling is a part of climbing. If you think climbing is unsafe, then why do you even use a rope, gear, and harness?)





In reply to:
I have also seen a correlation between wearing a helmet and letting the rope get behind your leg, and between helmets and taking stupid unsafe falls on the first two bolts of a sport climbs! People start leading earlier and with less experience and skill then was the case in the old days. Anyone want to make a case that this has improved safety.
(If someone has some good instruction, leading early on isn’t that dangerous. There’s that term “old” again.)

In reply to:
For myself, I climb on choss all the time.(
That explains the lack of crowds)
In reply to:
I just make sure that it is steep enough that I am not going to drop anything on my belayer. Maple and the Potrero are great examples. Climb the steeper stuff and you are fine without a helmet. Climb the easier lower angle stuff and you are not fine even with a helmet.
(So how does this support your argument that helmets are the root of the unsafe practices in climbing)


In reply to:
Instances of rock fall just happening are extremely rare and highly predictable.
(Like those mountain goat)
In reply to:
They are largely associated with recent large scale activity, and then maybe storm/rain related. (tends to be small stuff)
In reply to:
Sun hit and snow and ice can be another major cause.
The whole climbing industry is built around, "buy my stuff and you will be a safer climber." The marketing guru's seem to have people figured out pretty well. Too bad their bottom line is making money selling gizmos to people instead of actually encouraging safe behavior.
( I have not seen that many ads for helmet, and even fewer catalogue pictures where the climbers wear helmets.)


In reply to:
The climbing industry has to deal with safety issues in terms of generalizations and compromises. ( like you have done here with rok fall) (safety wise and in terms of making money) People that base their safety decisions on generalizations scare me. The consequences of being unsafe is a very personal thing and safety decisions should be made in that light.
(Helmets reduce the possibility of head injuries, they don’t eliminate the possibility of injuries.)

In reply to:
People often climb underneath other people now. The climbing industry seems not see that as a problem, they like crowds and the fact that it gives them a good scenario to sell helmets. It is not in their best interest to emphasize that it is unsafe to climb underneath other people, it is in their interest to say buy this and it will make your unsafe decisions safer... (of course they would never phrase it that way)
( I have never heard anyone, industry or climber, encouraging other to climb under other parties. Actually, I more often hear the opposite. The message also says to climb with caution when climbing under other parties.)




In reply to:
None of this should be taken as encouraging anyone not to wear a helmet.
(Then what was your point?)


kman


Dec 17, 2004, 1:29 AM
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here goes http://instagiber.net/...om/boxing_smiley.gif


danpayne


Dec 17, 2004, 1:32 AM
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Ok, so now tell me if that smiley on the left would be better off with or without a helmet?


hugepedro


Dec 17, 2004, 1:33 AM
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*a long rant*

While I agree with much of your rant, I wouldn't make such a strong correlation between helmet wearing and general lack of safety awareness as you seem to. Remove all references to helmets from your rant and it's a good piece about being aware of one's surroundings, about having the experience and knowledge to recognize when hazards are or are not present, and having the instinct to react appropriately to hazards. Many climbers do not have that knowledge/experience/instincts, and it has nothing to do with whether or not they wear a helmet.

I see climbers needlessly placing themselves in the path of danger all the time, whether it's lounging in the noonday sun on a glacier underneath towering seracs, or at the crag hanging out at the base of climbs where someone has been killed by rockfall - the common denominator is lack of experience and lack of situational awareness, not lack of or presence of a helmet.

Last time I was thankful for my helmet we were on a glacier climbing through thick clouds with about 30 feet of visibility. I hear a wheelbarrow load of rock break loose a couple hundred feet overhead. By the time they got to us they were broken into football size or smaller, but they were MOVING, and with the poor visibility it would have been extremely difficult to avoid them. We got lucky.

Like you, I am also judicious about when I do or do not wear my helmet, but I wear it more often than not. Besides, when you wear a ball cap on the approach hike, you need something to cover up the hat head. I can't have all the hotties checking me out with nappy-ass hair.


lostdog


Dec 17, 2004, 1:34 AM
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hey somebody break up those boxers, they aren't wearing any helmets.haha :lol:


tradmanclimbs


Dec 17, 2004, 1:35 AM
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One time i hitch hiked to the hospital with a broken collar bone due to a motorcycle wreck. the ER guys first comment was " good thing you had your wreck in Vermont, when I worked in NH (no helmet law) we just rolled the motocycle wrecks into the cooler downstairs" NOT advocateing a helmet law by any means but any tool that feels the need to proudly proclaim that helmets are not cool enough for him/her and don't work, belongs to the flat earth society :roll: Helmets have personaly saved my brain a few times climbing and have seen a few other positve experiences. Just ask paul pritchard about helmets if you need a negative example. rus raffa might have a thing or two to say but he can't caus he is dead. I know a few old school guys that made the leap to helmets after witnessing a chick get short roped into a roof W/ no helmet. Again if you don't want to wear one that is fine but when you start preaching about how stupid all the helmet wearers are you really do come off as fu$king macho moron.


kman


Dec 17, 2004, 1:42 AM
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In reply to:
Ok, so now tell me if that smiley on the left would be better off with or without a helmet?

:lol: Considering that the guy on the left is being punched about the jaw and mouth area, a helmet would not protect from the blows. However, wearing a helmet might have given him enough of a false sense of security and inflated his confidence enough to actually kick some a$$ :lol: :lol:


lostdog


Dec 17, 2004, 1:45 AM
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good insight kman, also would protect him when he hit the ground :wink:


climbsomething


Dec 17, 2004, 1:48 AM
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Actually, a a few occasions I have seen head injuries that would not have happened if the climbing had worn a helmet. In two occasions, the climber fell upside down.
Uh, helmets don't help you not get the rope behind your leg.


In reply to:
None of this should be taken as encouraging anyone not to wear a helmet. (Then what was your point?)
So many people aren't "getting" what Dan was trying to say. What's so difficult about his post?


emilb


Dec 17, 2004, 1:52 AM
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If you don't want to wear a helmet thats fine. If other folks want to wear one that's fine too. No need to rant about it.


guangzhou


Dec 17, 2004, 2:08 AM
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Uh, helmets don't help you not get the rope behind your leg.

When did I say anything about a rope behind someone leg?


If you see the point, then let me know?

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