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cracklover
Jun 1, 2004, 2:31 AM
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In reply to: Yeeha, I'm back from a day at Rumney (totally missed any rc.com folks, sorry)! But I did my first EVER leads. Ended up at Parking Lot Wall all day without ever feeling like it was *too* crowded. Only experienced a couple of yikes-not-gonna-make-it moments, resulting in phew-made-it moments and now just feel good. 8^) Still love trad over sport. Jen
Congrats!!!
Look forward to hearing all about it.
GO
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cracklover
Jun 1, 2004, 2:33 AM
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In reply to: Gabe and derek.. when you going next? I'm motivated for a long day of many many routes.. lata Jake
Can't speak for derek, but I'm going this Saturday! Who else? Would love to see some more of y'all!
GO
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jakedatc
Jun 1, 2004, 3:35 AM
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Gabe Cool.. check ur PM's
Joanna i didn't see ya either... i wasnt sure which day you were going up so i wasnt looking for you yesterday but was looking today.. woops glad you had fun.. sucks that guy got hurt.. we didnt see it
Jake
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wrbrill
Jun 1, 2004, 5:47 AM
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Hey,
I'm moving to Boston in July. I used to climb a fair amount (went on a NOLS climbing trip, and would go with friends in college) but I haven't been on a rock in a couple years.
How do you guys get together? And would a girl in need of a refresher be welcomed?
Wendy
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sujones65
Jun 1, 2004, 12:11 PM
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Hey Gabe,
I need to come climbing with you..if only to watch you fall on your gear. It's a fear I need to overcome or I'll never lead a thing!
wendy, I'd be happy to go out with you, however, I'm going up to Acadia for July and August and will be doing all my climbing up there (can't friggin wait) but I'll be back at the end of August, the kids will be in school and the weather will be great so get in touch!
Chris, let's get together at Rumney on Thursday. I've decided to run the risk of losing my top layer of skin on a fall to try leading something so get ready. AND you can lead Lies and Propoganda so I can climb that baby again!
sue
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taualum23
Jun 1, 2004, 12:52 PM
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Hey all,
So good to hear about everybody's good climbing this weekdn. I've decided that later this week it's time for me to experiment with my finger, see if it takes some weight OK. I'll probably either go to the gym for 5.4-5.7 routes, or maybe a V0 tour of lincoln woods. We'll see. It's that or take up Aid climbing, but if I don't get back on rock soon I'm gonna explode.
Paul- if you want to get together for a day of testing out our feeble injured bodies, I'm down.
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edge
Jun 1, 2004, 12:59 PM
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Well, on Monday Meg, Myself and another girl from the Dover team had an easy but fun day at Cathedral. The three of us did Funhouse to Pooh to Upper Refuse (two pitches of 5.7 and two of 5.5) to end up right at the tourist outlook. I forgot how stupid people can be when you pop up from under the fence.
"How long did it take you?''
"I dunno, what day is this?"
"You know, there's a road up the back side..."
"Really? You mean you didn't walk up here in those high heels?"
"How do you get the rope up to climb it?"
"Oh, there's ropes left in place all over this cliff, but they are painted to match the rock so you can't see them from the road."
After that we hit up the South Buttress on Whitehorse where Meg and Kaitlyn led up an 11c slab route with Katelyn taking a couple killer 15-20 foot whippers.
Fun stuff.
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jakedatc
Jun 1, 2004, 1:00 PM
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Have fun josh! just listen to your body and when it starts leaving hints that it's not happy.. listen and back off
In reply to: Chris, let's get together at Rumney on Thursday. I've decided to run the risk of losing my top layer of skin on a fall to try leading something so get ready. AND you can lead Lies and Propoganda so I can climb that baby again! |
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cracklover
Jun 1, 2004, 1:02 PM
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In reply to: Hey Gabe, I need to come climbing with you..if only to watch you fall on your gear. It's a fear I need to overcome or I'll never lead a thing! sue
Hi Sue,
You're welcome to come join me, but I hope you're patient. This is my fourth season of leading, and I've fallen on my gear about that same number of times!
GO
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robbovius
Jun 1, 2004, 1:08 PM
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Harsh, oh, OK I understand now. you guys got there just after we left.
Wendy, there's plenty of us climbing at the local crags just about every weekend. Quincy Quarries is very close to B-town, has a bunch of easy stuff suited for getting back into it. watch this space, and feel free to invite yourself along. College Rock is about 35-40 minutes out of boston, (I live 2 miles from there), there's also Hamond Pond in wellesley, I believe, near the chestnut hill mall.
Spent yesterday afternoon at CR with wannabeaclimber, I was tired, had a difficult time sticking the balance on the straight-up thin face variation of Send money, but was able to get up Militant Right with no problem. Go figure. Saw Ken, one of the strong and experienced CR regulars, he complimented my anchors over SM...that was kewl, unsolicited positive commentary on gear placement skills. another incremental confidence boost.
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sujones65
Jun 1, 2004, 1:45 PM
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In reply to: hehe here's an idea... YOU lead L&P and risk falling :)
you mean be assured of falling! well, why don't you come up and lead it and we'll just have fun on the toprope. and...what new 5.8 to the left? I was just there a week and a half ago and the only thing to the left was another 5.9!! What's it called?
Gabe. 4 times in four seasons? you need to be leading harder stuff and I need to be watching you fall. I guess maybe what I mean to say is that I need to be leading and falling once or twice on MY gear...can't...breath...too...freaked....out....
just kidding, I'm just a teeny bit of a chicken but I will overcome the fear :shock:
sj65
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jakedatc
Jun 1, 2004, 2:06 PM
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In reply to: you mean be assured of falling! well, why don't you come up and lead it and we'll just have fun on the toprope. and...what new 5.8 to the left? I was just there a week and a half ago and the only thing to the left was another 5.9!! What's it called?
Derek that's awesome
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gilly
Jun 1, 2004, 2:11 PM
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Just started reading the weekend stuff. Kevin, Sue, Jeff, etc.
I'd agree that Big Biner WITHOUT the 2" wide and the 1" wide ledges is a
Quincy 9 . I was able to do it ...just, after 8 or so tries. If you use the ledges ,.... an 8. Sorry to have missed you Sue, and yes, my humor is rather dry and sometimes subtle.
Is that loose block on White Knight part of the undercling/sidepull ? If so, leave it there. There are good holds both above and below it, and removing that piece would make the climb even easier, in my opinion. I agree with the white X idea as a solution. It seems solid enough, unless someone pulls straight out on it...... great for an adrenaline rush.
Yes Rob, I was EXTREMLY embarrassed and chagrined about that. I'm pleased that you didn't use that #10 hex on me; you would have been entirely within your rights. I'll expect to hear that chorus for a long time.
Now I'll go back and read the last 4 pages, glad everyone had a fun weekend.
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robbovius
Jun 1, 2004, 2:16 PM
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In reply to: I guess maybe what I mean to say is that I need to be leading and falling once or twice on MY gear...can't...breath...too...freaked....out.... just kidding, I'm just a teeny bit of a chicken but I will overcome the fear :shock: sj65
Sue, even though I'm a beginning leader, with only a handfull of short leads (all at QQ) to my credit, I've been falling on my gear since the end of last summer at CR. I always build my anchors there with gear now, and have since about the middle of last september, so whenever I peel off there, if I'm on my own rope, I'm falling on gear I've placed...another confidence builder, y'know?
Gabe, last week the ex's dad sent me fitty dawlah for father's day, used to to buy my first Alien (yellow) psyche! I was thinking of your lead of Outside Corner when I bought it.
Dave, we all make mistakes, it was a good day at the quarries none the less. at least only one of them was open. ;-)
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wideguy
Jun 1, 2004, 2:31 PM
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Sounds like another good weekend missed by me. Damn!!
Congrats everyone on their strong efforts, first leads, and new personal bests. Jealous Jealous, Jealous.
Wendy, I can't speak for everyone, but as for myself, and most of the regulars here on this particular board, new faces are always welcome. Like Rob said, keep checking here and invite yourself along. Most of us have pics online somewhere so if you see us, introduce yourself and hop on a rope. Look forward to meeting you.
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taino
Jun 1, 2004, 2:33 PM
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I'd just like to interject that JJ was correct about the clusterfvck at the Trapps, this weekend. :shock::shock:
Glad to see that most everyone had a good weekend. :D
T
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dietzpa
Jun 1, 2004, 2:38 PM
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I'm posting a question to those in the Boston area that are in on rock gym gossip:
A buddy of mine that used to own the gym Go Vertical in Stamford, CT said a new gym was going in in Everett.
Rumor has it there are 70 ft walls and its going to be sick.
Anyone know anything about this new gym?
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jakedatc
Jun 1, 2004, 2:41 PM
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www.MetroRock.com
they are looking for routesetters on NEB.com if you're in to that kinda thing
edit: haha kev i win :lol:
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elron
Jun 1, 2004, 2:41 PM
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dietzpa... its called Metro Rock and its on Rt 16 in Everett. Last I heard was opening this summer
http://www.metrorock.com
Kevin
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dietzpa
Jun 1, 2004, 2:44 PM
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awesome. thanks for the super fast replies.
Im really looking forward to it, its so much closer to me than BRG.
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cracklover
Jun 1, 2004, 3:51 PM
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In reply to: Gabe. 4 times in four seasons? you need to be leading harder stuff and I need to be watching you fall. I guess maybe what I mean to say is that I need to be leading and falling once or twice on MY gear...can't...breath...too...freaked....out.... just kidding, I'm just a teeny bit of a chicken but I will overcome the fear :shock: sj65
Sue. With all due respect, I disagree quite strongly with your suggestion that either of us neccesarily should be falling more. Falling on lead (we're talking trad leading, not gear anchors, not sport) is no joke - it's the leading cause of injury in climbing. I believe your first 25 leads should be about getting your s#it together on climbs that are so easy that you have virtually no chance of falling unless a hold breaks. If you fall during this period, you're doing something very wrong. There are so many things to asses while you're on lead, all weighed against each other - all about compromising this in favor of that, that it's just stupid to throw climbs at your limit into the mix. Of course it's also natural for us to push ourselves, for me to say to myself, damn Gabe, you should be leading harder than this, what's your problem. But I'm here to say that that voice must be guarded against - it's good that it's there, so that as you gain confidence, you will have that drive to continue to push yourself. It's an internal tug-of-war that all new leaders feel (or should feel).
As for weather I myself, personally, am pushing my limits hard enough, sorry to be blunt, but that's none of your business. Yeah, I know you didn't mean it personally, and I don't take it that way, I'm just trying to make the point that these numbers are only relevant to our *internal* struggles with ourselves. Anyway, I'm faster than some. My partner this weekend said he'd been climbing 20 years before he led his first 5.11.
In other words, what I'm saying is, it's good to be chicken, it'll keep you from being dead.
GO
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cracklover
Jun 1, 2004, 3:57 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I guess maybe what I mean to say is that I need to be leading and falling once or twice on MY gear...can't...breath...too...freaked....out.... just kidding, I'm just a teeny bit of a chicken but I will overcome the fear :shock: sj65 Sue, even though I'm a beginning leader, with only a handfull of short leads (all at QQ) to my credit, I've been falling on my gear since the end of last summer at CR. I always build my anchors there with gear now, and have since about the middle of last september, so whenever I peel off there, if I'm on my own rope, I'm falling on gear I've placed...another confidence builder, y'know?
A toprope fall on a nicely equalized anchor is a whole different animal than taking a lead fall on a single piece placed on lead... But just the same, it's good to know that gear works!
In reply to: Gabe, last week the ex's dad sent me fitty dawlah for father's day, used to to buy my first Alien (yellow) psyche! I was thinking of your lead of Outside Corner when I bought it.
Sweet! Wish I had that piece. I have the equivalent TCU in that size. Would much rather have the Alien.
GO
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sujones65
Jun 1, 2004, 4:00 PM
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In reply to: I always build my anchors there with gear now, and have since about the middle of last september, so whenever I peel off there, if I'm on my own rope, I'm falling on gear I've placed...another confidence builder, y'know?
Thanks for mentioning this. I, too almost always build my anchors with gear so I guess technically I AM falling on my own gear. I just never considered that angle but I'll give myself a little teeny tiny pat on the back for that. Been doing that for a while now. How about taking a leader fall? that's the hump I'm faced with now. Ever fall and have a piece of gear pop? If so, what was it and were you thinking "good enough" as you placed it or were you confident it was bomber?" Anyone else with some wise words for moi?
Derek, I'm glad you had such a good time. I'm so looking forward to spending July and August there..and you know, that's my old stomping ground so it feels like "home". Any time you want to come up while I'm there I'll definately go out with you. I especially like climbing on the seastack (Rock Lobster) It's so wacky and cool! I'd love to do some multi pitch stuff on the Precipice too...and the Clifton Crag (inland) is totally worth checking out, with an overnight stopover at our cabin on a lake....it's just perfect.
Kevin, as far as the Gunks go...Would we be leaving early Friday and returning early (ish) Sunday? I'm not getting the enthusiasm from Matt that I was earlier in the week so I will let you know after we have "the talk" Maybe if I bust my ass to get a little extra childcare for him, he'll be more into is. Let me know the specifics if you can...I would LOVE to go!
Jake, ok, now I know which climb you're talking about. You lead it and I try it..it looks nutty but I'm trying to overcome my aversion to roof problems and that's a good one for that. Speaking of which, since you are "mr. boulder", do you know of any boulder spots that have some low roof problems so that I can work on JUST THAT for a while? Anyone else know of any?
sj65
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the_pirate
Jun 1, 2004, 4:07 PM
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'Sup Droogies,
Great weekend indeed. I arrived at Sleeping Giant in CT at about 6am on saturday determined to get in a birthday climb before my parents put me to work humping furniture. Didn't quite make the Dawn Patrol, but I was close. My destination was Wiessner's Rib on the chin of the giant. It's a stellar jam crack that is special for several reasons. First of all, it fits my current project of ticking off all the Wiessner classics in the northeast. Second, this was the spot and the climb where, years ago, I had first seen people engaged in roped, technical free climbing. I did it as a roped solo, so I got to climb it twice. By 8am I was packing my gear and enjoying the view. (from up there New Haven almost looks nice).
On Sunday I hit East Peak. Met up with one of my pals from college for some traprock climbing. He hadn't been climbing much as of late, so I got to play trad ropegun for the day on some easy and moderate crack climbs. I love traprock, it's got just enough friction so you don't have to worry about your feet popping, but not so much that it shreds your hands instantly.
Headed back to Boston Sunday night and caught a few winks before meeting up with Ambler in New Hampshire to hit Profile Cliff. Climbing with Larry, as always, kicked ass. He played ropegun and lead me up some challenging and fun routes.
Three days of spectacular climbing on Memorial Day Weekend. Got a good workout, got some color in my cheeks (face), did some really fun routes, hit three different crags and was the only rope on the cliff at all of them. Hope you suckahs enjoyed the crowds. :lol:
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cracklover
Jun 1, 2004, 4:09 PM
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Edge - there are several up sides to having the tourists up there on Cathedral. Here's a typical conversation:
Me: Appearing with all my hexes clanging merrilly in front of Tourist faces.
Tourist: Wow, did you just climb up these cliffs?
Me: Yup!
Tourist: Hey that's pretty cool, how long did it take?
Me: (While walking nonchalantly to the parking area) Oh a few hours. It's a lot of fun, you should try it some time.
Tourist: (Arriving at pristine SUV with nice leather seats and AC) Say, would you like a ride down? And help yourself to a drink from the cooler.
Me: How nice of you, thanks!
Oh, and this weekend, I had a cheering section (friends who were hiking) for my lead of Airation. How nice is that? :)
Dbyte: Yup, Acadia is a pretty magical place. It's a shame it's such a far drive.
GO
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