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capn_morgan
Oct 15, 2003, 6:02 PM
Post #51 of 53
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Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 565
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Hmm..it would be pretty heavy huh.
Thanks for those links. BTW what kinda of 7 mil cord do you use for a rap line? the same 7 mil cord they sell for slinging hexes and making prussiks? how well does that work in belay device?
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dingus
Oct 15, 2003, 6:14 PM
Post #52 of 53
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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In reply to: Thanks for those links. BTW what kinda of 7 mil cord do you use for a rap line? the same 7 mil cord they sell for slinging hexes and making prussiks? how well does that work in belay device?
Me? Hah! I use 8.1 half ropes for this sort of thing. If I need to tote a rap line along with a single lead rope, I'm just too cheap not to use one of my 8 mils for this.
So I'm not the guy to answer your question. I do, however, know someone who can answer it definitively. Check out:
http://groups.google.com/groups?q=g:thl1054458494d&dq=&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&selm=al5puo%24n0u%241%40lacerta.tiscalinet.it
and read the entire thread, paying particular to Lord Slime's comments. He is the granddaddy of the big old baddy of rec.climbing. So be prepared for a little rough speech.
And check out tradgirl's site. A wealth of FAQ's, including this one:
http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/advanced.htm#secondrope
Nate is another climber who's advice on these matters you can take to the bank. Dude knows his shit.
And here is a link to the Slime article he references in the thread:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&safe=off&selm=39E748D6.DD8B94D7%40fake.hp.com
That rec.climbing! Much maligned to be sure. But when you want a peer reviewed answer, stripped of all the political bullshit, go to the source!
DMT
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pico23
Oct 16, 2003, 5:20 AM
Post #53 of 53
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Registered: Mar 14, 2003
Posts: 2378
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In reply to: What if i were to get a single 8.7 double rope and then use it in conjuction with my 10.2 single. that way i only need to buy one more rope . I could see rope managment being a bit more complex....but i can solve differenctial equations so i should be able to sort out a couple of ropes. With 2 diff diameter ropes i could clip them alternatly so that the double gets clipped into the marginal pieces and the single or both into bomber ones. other than creating a possible knot from hell and being a bit harder to tie together does anyone have any reason why this would be a really bad idea?
Nope you can't do what you are intending. Reason! The ropes will be crossed up. Crossing doubles is bad, the whole point of them (or one of the advantages) is that you can keep the rope running straight.
Also, while people don't mention this much having two very different diameter ropes on rappel is bad because one (the thinner) will feed faster causing the ropes to run out at diffrent times. This could be very bad. I personally try to keep the diameter of my ropes within 1mm when doing two rope rappels.
As far as rope management don't be so cocky! Those ropes have a way of getting tangled. Even if you've been using the system for a while occasionally a tangle from hell just pops up and takes a long time to undo. We spend a chilly afternoon getting a tangle out last winter and it cost us a climb because we were pushing the clock. My partner used doubles quite a bit and I've used them from time to time. but the brightside is management isn't as bad as people would have you believe.
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