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jeremy11
Nov 26, 2006, 11:26 PM
Post #51 of 61
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Registered: May 28, 2004
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Gregory Crouch, Patagonian regular and author of "Enduring Patagonia"
certainly not the greatest, but quite nuts in his patagonian epics, and inspirational to me.
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gritstoner
Nov 27, 2006, 5:06 PM
Post #52 of 61
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musicman1586 wrote: [quote "crag_rat"]It's funny no UK climbers have appeared on here yet... remembering we invented the sport... What about the Ron Fawcett he did sooo much for the development of the hard climbing scene... Or Chriss Bonington hes an absolouted legend in all areas... Or Modern times... people like - Ben Moon - Jerry Moffat - Seb Greive - Leo Houlding - Joe Simpson Or very modern time ... people like - Malcolm Smith - Steve Mclure - Matt Birch Don't forget the Brits People..... :wink:[/quote] Uh, how about adding Johnny Dawes to that list, as he was the guy that pioneered alot of the routes that made those other guys famous in doing their repeats. Another vote/addition for these guys: Lynn Hill, Ron Kauk, Tommy Caldwell, Ramon Julian, Dani Andrada, Paxti Usiobaga, Iker Pou, and yes, I will say it, David Graham, because I love his technique and style.
how about the likes of whillans and brown, tom patey, john cunningham.
they are the greatest of british (yes two were scot's) climbers.
bonningington wasnt the best climber we ever had. granted he did morte for british climbing than any one else, but that doesnt make him the best.
al rouse was a dam fine climber as well.
of modern british climbers there are people like dave birkett regularly putting up E8's and 9's that no-one has managed to repeat yet.
other greats are the likes of buhl, ricardo cassin, walter bonnati, lional terriey (sp).
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marks
Nov 28, 2006, 4:17 PM
Post #53 of 61
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Registered: Aug 3, 2002
Posts: 376
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seems to me 99 % of people on this site cant see out of there own country.
the strong american climbers compared to the strong euros just get their pants whipped down and ass's spanked i'm affraid.euro climbers lead the way.
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mojede
Nov 28, 2006, 5:04 PM
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By using the Pele/soccer example, one needs to consider not only the achievements and endeavors, but the notoriety, recognition and respect qualities of the individual under the microscope. In my opinion, using these (and other) guidelines, very few climbers rise to the top of the cream, but I would proffer these names: Messner, Scott, Bonnington, and Albert.
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rico511
Nov 28, 2006, 5:33 PM
Post #55 of 61
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Registered: Apr 7, 2006
Posts: 19
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fitz wiesner no doubt about it. his fa of vector the first 5.8 in the US with one piton and a hemp rope
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fluxus
Nov 28, 2006, 6:14 PM
Post #56 of 61
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Registered: Apr 3, 2003
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[quote "j_ung"]I can't think of anybody in climbing's history who stands so far out of the crowd that he or she is completely in a league of his or her own. There are many amazing people in our history, but to pick just one... I can't say.[/quote]
I mostly agree but, Steven Jefferys among American climbers, is in a league all his own when it comes to the quality of his movement.
Marc Lemenestrial (SP?) is also pretty far out there. The quality of his movement, his attitude towards climbing, his ability to flash 5.14a off the couch . . .
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daithi
Nov 28, 2006, 6:55 PM
Post #57 of 61
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Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 397
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My vote goes to Wolfgang Güllich for advancing the standards of climbing so much in less than a decade. Before 1984 the hardest route in the world was 8a+ (5.13c). Güllich was responsible for the first 8b (5.13d) in 1984, the first 8b/8b+ (5.13d/5.14a) in 1984. His first accent of 8b+ (5.14a) was in 1986.
He got his first accent of 8c (5.14b) in 1987. Getting in on the action was Ben Moon from Britain who got the first accent of 8c+ (5.13c) in 1990. Güllich famously got his first 9a (5.14d) in 1991 with Action Directe, a 45° overhanging line with a huge dyno from a one finger pocket. It was four years until it had its second accent and nine until its third accent. He died in 1992.
He was so far ahead of his time and pushed the boundaries of what was thought possible in climbing. It took an amazing 10 years before a 9a+ (5.15a) route that had the general consensus of the climbing community and has seen a few repeats to arrive. I think 9a+ would have come a lot sooner if he was still around in the early 90’s. Of course not only was he a single pitch sports climber who advanced the standards, he also performed the first free solo of Separate Reality in Yosemite. He broke his back when he fell from a bold trad route, Master’s Edge in the UK. He also established a number of bold alpine routes in the mountains.
I recommend reading his biography by Tilmann Hepp. I believe his like will not be seen again. Can you imagine a single climber today advancing the standards from 9a+ (5.15a) to 10a (5.16b) in single grade increments, which will stand the test of time and become benchmarks, over a period of 8 years? Truly a great and his untimely death was a huge loss for the climbing community.
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rico511
Nov 28, 2006, 8:00 PM
Post #58 of 61
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I think that it's really hard to judge because all the pioneers have sort of grown into ledgends and the people pushing the standards right know are just breaking into greatness.
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erin
Nov 28, 2006, 8:29 PM
Post #59 of 61
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Registered: Jul 27, 2005
Posts: 149
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[quote "j_ung"]I can't think of anybody in climbing's history who stands so far out of the crowd that he or she is completely in a league of his or her own. There are many amazing people in our history, but to pick just one... I can't say.[/quote]
Well said
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qdiggety
Nov 28, 2006, 9:55 PM
Post #60 of 61
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
Posts: 808
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BURT BRONSON!!!
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nedsurf
Nov 28, 2006, 10:25 PM
Post #61 of 61
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Registered: Nov 9, 2004
Posts: 387
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I am not into superlatives, so I have to say that there is one climber I admire. Fred Beckey. He just seems to have gotten everywhere and has climbed for 70 years. Some of his approaches in the Pac. NW that I have done were horrendous;and he has done so many of them. I look for some Beckey FAs wherever I go somewhere new. His climbs always seem to feel like a true adventure.
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