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camhead
May 4, 2012, 8:43 PM
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Got board last night, typed up a serious cat response to some naive trad climbing conversation on redriverclimbing. Also noticed that graniteclimber cannot stay away from that site!
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/...t=14861&start=90
I am psyched that I managed to call odub an egosterbator, though.
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camhead
May 4, 2012, 8:47 PM
Post #91803 of 105309
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WOO! Accidental gloriez!
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caughtinside
May 4, 2012, 9:40 PM
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camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote:  heh Heh. Greg's blorg is the best climbing blog evar. Though, assholeclimbers is pretty close.
I find myself fascinated by the header photo on asshole climbers. I don't understand the dicky tape wrap... but maybe that is the point?
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caughtinside
May 4, 2012, 9:44 PM
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camhead wrote: Got board last night, typed up a serious cat response to some naive trad climbing conversation on redriverclimbing. Also noticed that graniteclimber cannot stay away from that site! http://www.redriverclimbing.com/...t=14861&start=90 I am psyched that I managed to call odub an egosterbator, though.
that site is pretty funny some times. The weekend noob report is good stuff.
Dustin had a good comment early in that thread though, like page 1. The Red has the highest concentration of skill-less climbers of any major crag, nothing else comes close.
Regarding the trad vs sport grades in that thread: grades are grades, whatever. But the fact is, there might be 20 (just a guess) 5.11 sport climbers for every one 5.11 trad climber. I'd say that's conservative.
I don't have an opinion on whether trad is faddy right now, I think there will always be a few from the sport/boulder crowd who are drawn to try it. I know you guys like to tease me about it, but there is actually some adventure in trad climbing. Sport has basically none. And I love sport climbing.
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tripperjm
May 5, 2012, 12:12 AM
Post #91806 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: Sanjaya livez!!  I'm going to be doing a bit of Male Modeling for mt. hardwear. I'm going to lay down the Blue Steel! mt hardware iz selling blue condoms nau? If only CI's parents had used a condom...
Well, we kin waste our tyme dreaming ov 'If only'... or we kin try to korrect an error.
I thinks a regnued effort to kill teh klown iz in order.
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tripperjm
May 5, 2012, 12:13 AM
Post #91807 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Sanjaya livez!! I'm going to be doing a bit of Male Modeling for mt. hardwear. I'm going to lay down the Blue Steel! Are we going to be able to see this?
Ewe wunts to sea CI modeling a blue condom?
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carabiner96
May 5, 2012, 12:14 AM
Post #91808 of 105309
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tripperjm wrote: carabiner96 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Sanjaya livez!! I'm going to be doing a bit of Male Modeling for mt. hardwear. I'm going to lay down the Blue Steel! Are we going to be able to see this? Ewe wunts to sea CI modeling a blue condom?
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snoopy138
May 5, 2012, 1:38 AM
Post #91809 of 105309
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tripperjm wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: Sanjaya livez!! I'm going to be doing a bit of Male Modeling for mt. hardwear. I'm going to lay down the Blue Steel! mt hardware iz selling blue condoms nau? If only CI's parents had used a condom... Well, we kin waste our tyme dreaming ov 'If only'... or we kin try to korrect an error. I thinks a regnued effort to kill teh klown iz in order.
I was sort of hoping that he would buckle under the pressure of teh gnu jorb and take care of teh jorb himself.
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wanderlustmd
May 5, 2012, 6:03 PM
Post #91810 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: granite_grrl wrote: jakedatc wrote: Not my fault you climbed like shit and had a crappy time. Are you just assuming that or is that a direct report from the people I actually hung out with the one time I climbed there? You're an odd one sometimes. For the record, I thought you did fine. It's just climbing, after all. The bouldery nature of the area didn't suit me, I'll admit that, but what's the point of getting upset about something like that? There is very little appeal for me to head back there right now though, not when there are much better areas much closer to me to climb at.
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wanderlustmd
May 5, 2012, 6:14 PM
Post #91811 of 105309
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That's fucking hilarious
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wanderlustmd
May 6, 2012, 3:53 PM
Post #91812 of 105309
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tripperjm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: kachoong wrote: jakedatc wrote: kachoong wrote: jakedatc wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: nice cheesegrater. For the record, the presence and/or wearing of a GoPro is a clear indicator of n00b status. yep. and climbing has to be one of the most boring things to video with a GoPro. seeing a 3' radius around a guy's hands is about all you get. Which would be fine to take in teh whole crag at Rumney, right? you still making an E coast trip? you can find out. Maybe in Sep... still penciled in tho. Nice man, let me know if you come out. Happy to show you around! ...and hello to everyone else! *waves* Gud to see ewe.
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wanderlustmd
May 6, 2012, 4:03 PM
Post #91813 of 105309
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camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Reasons why it is not a good idea to constantly text during lecture: "During President Bush Jr's terms, he ruled over the Supreme Court as Commander-In-Chief in order to expand the realms of weapons of mass destruction." "When Nixon ordered the invasion of Catagonia..." Catagonia? How did you find out that Feisty was vying for a repeat of the Compressor Route? The whole idea seems pretty purrnicious to me. I made a classic pun at McJorb, today. Some kid's writing assignment said "Less time in the gym will make kids obtuse." Funny, but he just confused obtuse with obese, fairly standard for 5th graders. I kicked the pun up a notch with my co-workers, though, when I said, "if lack of exercise causes one to be obtuse, then we can see why exercise helps girls get acute body." ZING! 
When did you start teaching 5th??
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camhead
May 6, 2012, 8:00 PM
Post #91814 of 105309
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wanderlustmd wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Reasons why it is not a good idea to constantly text during lecture: "During President Bush Jr's terms, he ruled over the Supreme Court as Commander-In-Chief in order to expand the realms of weapons of mass destruction." "When Nixon ordered the invasion of Catagonia..." Catagonia? How did you find out that Feisty was vying for a repeat of the Compressor Route? The whole idea seems pretty purrnicious to me. I made a classic pun at McJorb, today. Some kid's writing assignment said "Less time in the gym will make kids obtuse." Funny, but he just confused obtuse with obese, fairly standard for 5th graders. I kicked the pun up a notch with my co-workers, though, when I said, "if lack of exercise causes one to be obtuse, then we can see why exercise helps girls get acute body." ZING! When did you start teaching 5th??
Didn't. Doing a temp jorb scoring assessment tests while I only teach part time at teh college. It's pretty blah.
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dr_feelgood
May 6, 2012, 11:17 PM
Post #91816 of 105309
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The redneck neighbors have moved in next door... Soon they will be breeding like rabbits.
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granite_grrl
May 7, 2012, 12:06 PM
Post #91817 of 105309
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Looks like Nathan needs a partner for Yosemite. right no, NOW!
check groupe for details.
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granite_grrl
May 7, 2012, 3:09 PM
Post #91819 of 105309
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Weekend report:
Good times in the Gunks with my friend John. On Saturday I didn't get on anything very hard, but I did get on some 7's and 8's that I haven't been on before.
I put John on this one route having done the first pitch before and finding it to be an easy 5.8 (he hasn't done many climbs in that grade yet). Climbing beside a bunch of yahoos, mostly older guys and kinda big talkers. Irritating, but harmless. The one guy's son was fairly new to leading and he sent the son up some 5.8/9 slabby climb that was kind run out. Son kept telling day to pay more attention to him while Dad was yapping at the base. Anyway, son takes a good 20-30 footer down this slab, nasty fall, Dad doesn't seem concerned at all. Son finishes route, which was good on him, but still....
Anyway, I had never done the second pitch of this route so I figure what the heck. Dirty, wet, runout, loose rock, bad gear, this climb had it all. Most of the gross climbing was easy, but I was still hating life by the top. Brought John up, walk along and find the rap we thought would take us down.
I start rapping, rope keeps getting hung up and I had to keep sorting it and sending it down. I'm about 30ft from the anchors when I realize the rope is about 10ft short of the anchors. I see what looks like a thread so I keep heading down thinking that I'll donate a sling and we'll go off this thread. No thread, just a bunch of dirt hanging out between two blocks pretending to be a thread. The terrain is slabby so I jug ~70ft back up to a ledge.
We both get on this ledge and walk 30ft over to the next station. On the second rap to the groud we're still 15ft short, but able to scramble the rest of the way down.
Two guys came up right after me on the second pitch and they made the exact same mistake. I just stopped them so they only had to jug up 20-30ft rather than almost the entire way.
Day two much quicker day. We did a couple climbs I'd done before and linking the pitches for some lovely long bits of climbing. Then on the hike back out at decide to get on Nose Dive.
Went pretty well until I got to the crux and found I didn't have the size gear I needed to protect it. By the time I finished fucking with gear I just quasi frenched freed my way through the crux so we could get home at a reasonable hour. Knowing the gear beta better I think I can give it a good effort next time I go back and hopefully redpoint.
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caughtinside
May 7, 2012, 3:42 PM
Post #91820 of 105309
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nice.
I tried to do an FA at the Leap on saturday. Hopes were dashed when I found the rusty Lost Arrow under a clump of moss.
The thing was an obvious line, but so horrendously filthy that I though there was a good chance it hadn't been done. I am fairly sure it hadn't been done in 20 years based on the giant lichen flakes the size of my hand, and the sheets of moss. Anyway, we cleaned it and climbed it. I think it was Cheap Shot, a 10a/b that I don't know anyone who has done. FA Jay Smith. That bastard!!
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caughtinside
May 7, 2012, 3:46 PM
Post #91821 of 105309
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Oh yes,
My friend Dan is developing a new headlamp. He's been working on it by himself for two years and he just started a kickstarter campaign to raise 20k to get the tooling built for mass production.
Pretty neat, a one man show and his product, taking on the franchises of the world. His video on the kickstarter is pretty good:
http://www.kickstarter.com/...6368/bosavi-headlamp
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snoopy138
May 7, 2012, 3:51 PM
Post #91822 of 105309
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wanderlustmd wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Reasons why it is not a good idea to constantly text during lecture: "During President Bush Jr's terms, he ruled over the Supreme Court as Commander-In-Chief in order to expand the realms of weapons of mass destruction." "When Nixon ordered the invasion of Catagonia..." Catagonia? How did you find out that Feisty was vying for a repeat of the Compressor Route? The whole idea seems pretty purrnicious to me. I made a classic pun at McJorb, today. Some kid's writing assignment said "Less time in the gym will make kids obtuse." Funny, but he just confused obtuse with obese, fairly standard for 5th graders. I kicked the pun up a notch with my co-workers, though, when I said, "if lack of exercise causes one to be obtuse, then we can see why exercise helps girls get acute body." ZING! When did you start teaching 5th??
yore GU is so weke. so, so weke.
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snoopy138
May 7, 2012, 3:54 PM
Post #91823 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: nice. I tried to do an FA at the Leap on saturday. Hopes were dashed when I found the rusty Lost Arrow under a clump of moss. The thing was an obvious line, but so horrendously filthy that I though there was a good chance it hadn't been done. I am fairly sure it hadn't been done in 20 years based on the giant lichen flakes the size of my hand, and the sheets of moss. Anyway, we cleaned it and climbed it. I think it was Cheap Shot, a 10a/b that I don't know anyone who has done. FA Jay Smith. That bastard!!
Denied!
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snoopy138
May 7, 2012, 3:55 PM
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weke end report: I am sore as fuck today.
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snoopy138
May 7, 2012, 3:59 PM
Post #91825 of 105309
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Saturday's route list:
1) Double Cross (follow)
2) Sexy Grandma
3) Dogleg (follow)
4) Geronimo
5) Toejam (follow)
6) Beginner's Three (solo)
7) Pinched Rib
8) The Flue
9) Blind Ambition (TR)
10) No Calculators Allowed
11) Count on Your Fingers
12) Peculiar Taste Buds
13) Conservative Policies
14) Butterfingers Make Me Horny
15) Chocolate is Better than Sex
16) Clean & Jerk
17) Ball Bearings P1
18) Almost Vertical (follow)
19) Split Personality
20) Rock-a-Lot (follow)
21) Double Dogleg
22) Rock Candy (TR)
23) Beck's Bet (TR)
24) Smithereens
25) Lewd & Lascivious Conduct (TR)
26) Young Lust (TR)
27) B-3 (solo)
28) B-2 (solo)
29) B-1 (solo)
30) The Eye (solo by headlamp)
beers were consumed at the top of the Eye.
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