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Common Sense Advice (Keep Safe Thread)
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zozo


Jun 29, 2005, 3:09 PM
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It struck me as odd because why would I rap a route that you were going to second?

But yet you climbed the route? Sounds like you made some mistakes here as well.


adnix


Jun 29, 2005, 3:10 PM
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Anyways. when you clip into the quickdraw, the rope runs up behind the beaner (the side that faces the rock), through the beaner and then right to your harness. If it was the other way around that would be back-clipping. With back-clipping the quickdraw has more of a chance to get alittle twisted. and possibly unclip itself.

Thanks for clarification. I guess you mean this:

http://mirror.greatoutdoors.com/...howtogo/l_clip1a.jpg http://mirror.greatoutdoors.com/...howtogo/l_clip1c.jpg

Backclipping is a problem only the rope goes left like in the first picture. If it goes right it might (or might not) be safer. Depending on the case.

This reminds me of rappeling advise btw. Once you rappel you should always have the rope you pull facing the wall. This way it's much less likely to get stuck. On the picture below you would pull the red rope.

http://www.planetmountain.com/...ng/images/07picc.jpg


usmc_2tothetop


Jun 29, 2005, 3:14 PM
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It struck me as odd because why would I rap a route that you were going to second?

But yet you climbed the route? Sounds like you made some mistakes here as well.

When I took her off she had said "TAKE". Not in the middle of the climb. She was done, anchors set up and ready to be lowered. She said take so that I can feel her weight before I lower her.


zozo


Jun 29, 2005, 3:16 PM
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It sounds to me like you were discussing this on the ground. If it struck her as odd the another second on the ground to say "Wait, I dont think we are on the same page." would have avoided this whole thing.


usmc_2tothetop


Jun 29, 2005, 3:20 PM
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We wern't on the same page. I should have know if we were doing a 1 pitch or 2 pitch. I should have been clear if she would be lowering or rapping. So next (which I don't even know if there will be a next time) I need to SPEAK UP.


zozo


Jun 29, 2005, 3:23 PM
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You BOTH should have been clear. That's all Im saying.


usmc_2tothetop


Jun 29, 2005, 3:23 PM
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Yes, I should have made things clear to myself. I should have spoke up. I thought about that before we even left that day. Next time ( which I don't even know if there will be a next time) I need to speak up.


mother_sheep


Jun 29, 2005, 3:25 PM
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Nice try. Your armchair observation is incorrect. We did cover it on the ground. When I told him that he was to lower me, we should have been on the same page. Try again.

My mistake would have been weighting the rope without checking the tension. I did that and then knew for certain what he had done.


curt


Jun 29, 2005, 5:17 PM
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Your point is pointless. You have never climbed with me and if any of your partners have climbed with me, it was back when I 1st started climbing. The people who mentioned my name in conversation, they have no point either if they’re slamming me like you constantly do. Can’t say I’ve ever been on a rope with Hill, haven’t climbed with Amber in a couple of years and I just met Mary and she’s the one person who I hope to climb more with.

My “close calls” are not a result of my skill level. Having 2 partners take me off belay, one on All Mixed UP and the one who prompted me to write this thread, weather close calls, rock fall close calls and the rappel issue on Powell Peak have nothing to do with my skill level. It was my skill level that got me out of a bad situation unharmed. I’ve only been climbing for 3 years. Every time I go out, it’s a learning experience. This is one of the reasons that I LOVE climbing with people who are more experienced than I am. So yeah, my skill level does need work. It will need work even after I’ve been climbing for 6 years, 10 years etc. . . As long as I’m climbing, I intend to keep learning because in the grand scheme of things in climbing, I’m still very, very new at it and I know I have a lot to learn.

With that being said, keep up with all the condescending things you say about me, here and in private. I don’t care. I know that I’m 1 topic that you don’t really know s--- about and you lack the facts about my ability and skill and history, aside from what you’ve read here, to properly judge.

Tracy, I think you ought to read this......

http://www.rockclimbing.com/post/372044#372044

......it is good advice that you desperately need.

Curt


mother_sheep


Jun 29, 2005, 5:40 PM
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When I look back on my first days climbing I realize that I was concerned in all of the wrong things. I was asking questions about techniques, gear, different kinds of climbing, was 5.7 good, and yes, shoes.

These aren't the only questions I ask but thanks. I question just about everything!!!

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While I was asking these questions I didn't realize that I was missing what was really important about our sport. Climbing is not about shoes, ratings, gear, and hype. What makes it the most incredible sport in the world is our community, our ethics, and our spirit.

See above

In reply to:
I wish that I had been given answers to the questions I wasn't asking. And in my reflections here's just a few of the things I wish I would have been told 5 years ago.


Take a road trip as soon as possible to a climbing destination. Camp at the campsite the most crowded with climbers, sit around the campfire, and listen.

Been there, done that, do it.


In reply to:
Find the old guys in your area, and listen to everything they have to say. Ignore the young guys with too much to say.

Do that too. But I see that some of the old guys can be quite biased too and when they are, they too start talking out of their asses. And it's not just the old guys that can be a wealth of information and stories. We all know this.

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Get experience in all possible facets of climbing. Go trad climbing, sport climbing, top roping, and bouldering. Learn about aid climbing. Get on a multipitch climb as soon as you can safely. The real adventure begins more than one ropelength off the ground.

Do this as much as I can. Not a fan of bouldering so that seems to be what I'm missing.

In reply to:
Climb with as many different partners as you can. You will learn what to do, and what not to do in half the time. You will learn what you respect in a climber, and what you hate as well. Emulate the good, and don't let yourself become that asshole that we all see occasionally.

Doing it. Trying not to be the asshole but it becomes hard when others are the asshole to you.

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It is no coincidence that the Best climbers in the world, do the least talking about their accomplishments. Nor is a coincidence that some of the worst talk even if no one is listening.

HA! NO COMMENT!!!!

In reply to:
Become involved in the community. Join your local climbers group. Donate money if you like, but it is far better to participate. Seeing the fruits of your labor, and knowing you have helped make some of the best climbing memories. Don't complain unless you have an alternative. Don't ask for anything until you have contributed.

Oh yeah, my passive concern for Shelf. I'll say nothing more about that until I've done some trail days out there.

In reply to:
Karma is real. No matter what anyone says.

Yes it is!

In reply to:
Learn all you can about the history and ethics of your area. You should be on a first name basis with some of the old guys who developed the crags. They will be around the campfire. Respect them and their wishes as your own. They were in your shoes at one time, and they can probably still outclimb you.

I find it easy to respect certain individuals as climbers but when it comes to who they are as people (from what I've experienced with them), if someone is going to treat me like crap or other people like crap because they're a climbing hero and they think they can. . .respect as climber stays. All other respect goes out the window.

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Don't buy a Drill or a Bolt for at least 5 years, and even then you had better be on a first name basis with all of the old guys around the campfire. Don't be that asshole that we all see occasionally. If you want a first ascent before 5 years, make a trad ascent, it will mean more to you later. Trust me.

No worries there.

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Never belittle someone for climbing in the fashion they love.

Okay, I won't

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Find your own personal ethics early, and stand behind them. Always strive for a higher ethical standard, never let yourself be pulled down. Don't hesitate to argue your ethics around that campfire.

Kinda what I'm doing now. That's what this thread has become, isn't it.

In reply to:
Do everything you can to help other climbers. They are your family while you pursue this sport, and this family can seem suprisingly small at times. Karma is real.

Do this quite frequently

In reply to:
Don't trespass. If the area is worth climbing, rest assured that a climber somewhere is working his ass off trying to get it reopened. By jumping that fence you are damning our cause. Always be part of the solution, not part of the problem.

I wouldn't!

In reply to:
Enjoy every second of being outdoors doing something you love. You may very well be having the best time of your life. Share the experience with as many people as you can. Give as much as you receive.

Oh but I've been called an "Internet Wanker" and a "Sprayer" for sharing my joy, my failures and my accomplishments, even tho to some they're small!!!

Geee. . . that helped a lot Curt. Thanks. :roll:


murf


Jun 29, 2005, 5:51 PM
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Jesus - the freaking belayer and climber had a miscommunication!

Without reading the bitch fest, let me say this. It happens *all* the time ( don't get fucking pedantic with me you "That doesn't happen to me I draw a diagram and a contract at the bottom of the pitch and have my belayer sign and I would never climb with someone who didn't telepathically know what I wanted at the top of pitch" idiot ) Happens to experienced folks, happens to unexperienced folks. Looks like she dealt with it by making sure she was on tension. Seems like an experienced climber's response to me.

Let me tell you 'bout the time I was lost in a sea of slab, desparately run out, tossed by winds, looking for the belay....

My eyes alight upon a set of bolted goodness.. "I SEE THE BELAY!!", I scream joyfully.

My partner replies, "YOU'RE OFF BELAY!"

"NOOOOOOOOOO"


curt


Jun 29, 2005, 5:55 PM
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Tracy,

For being a relative n00b, your utter arrogance and disregard for those who know what they are talking about is amazing. When someone who knows a thousand times more than you do about climbing tells you something, perhaps you ought to listen--instead of acting like a gumby and arguing with them. I don't know anything about your particular skill level in climbing--and I don't have to, in order to see that your attitude is indeed problematic.

Curt


dirtineye


Jun 29, 2005, 5:55 PM
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YOU guys could take it easy on the sheepster. She's gotten into some jams, and out of em as well, and learned a few things. I can't see that sheepy has done much wrong.

Most people have had similar experiences, they just don't post em for all to see. After all, a non-epic is a non-event.

As for experience, I've seen climbers with 20 and more years of experience do dumb things, and manage to get by out of pure luck. This is not about sheep's experience.

One point I would like to make about this climbing stuff, that gets over looked all too often, is that climbing is a team effort. You really do depend on someone else much of the time.

My butt has been saved by a smart partner a few times, and I have done likewise for my partners. Partners need to cover each other's asses.

IF I were going to give the sheep any advice, it would be to choose partners most carefully. Somehow, I think she has already made a few adjustments, and does not need a bunch of arm chair analysis.

Be safe sheep!


zozo


Jun 29, 2005, 5:57 PM
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^^Your cyber whipped.


mother_sheep


Jun 29, 2005, 6:19 PM
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Tracy,

For being a relative n00b, your utter arrogance and disregard for those who know what they are talking about is amazing. When someone who knows a thousand times more than you do about climbing tells you something, perhaps you ought to listen--instead of acting like a gumby and arguing with them. I don't know anything about your particular skill level in climbing--and I don't have to, in order to see that your attitude is indeed problematic.

Curt

What's the matter? You have a problem when someone won't back down in defense of herself? You and Bob don't know shit when it comes to me. PERIOD!!! I don't bow before assholes. Keep that in mind. And I won't buckel because a couple of skilled, all knowing climbers want to take some shots at me. Yes Curt, I am a n00b. I've already stated that my experience is only 3 years and that I have a lot to learn. In other threads I've admitted that I don't climb that hard, blah, blah, blah. This really isn't even about climbing anymore but you only know half the story. Respect the climbers but not the man. Your pathetic defense isn't going to change that.

Carry on. I can do this for a few more hours. Poor front page.


bobd1953


Jun 29, 2005, 6:19 PM
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With that being said, keep up with all the condescending things you say about me, here and in private. I don’t care. I know that I’m 1 topic that you don’t really know shit about and you lack the facts about my ability and skill and history, aside from what you’ve read here, to properly judge.

The facts are from your many posts on this site that you have had a number of close calls in the last year.

The fact is you are a somewhat new climber who feels the need to tell people on this site about almost every time she does a route.

You are a internet wanken.

Most good climbers don't toot their own horn...others do that for them.

Fact is... your ambition is far ahead your climbing ability and that is what gets you in trouble.

Fact is... climbers will alway talk about each other. Keep posting shit...and I (and others) will keep on talking.

Fact is... in my opinion from your post you are climbing for a lot of the wrong reasons.

Fact is... I have never climbed with you.

Fact is... I never wanted to and have no reason to.

Fact is... from my 35 years of experience climbers like you come and go.


mother_sheep


Jun 29, 2005, 6:21 PM
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^^Your cyber whipped.

And you’re like Napoleon in drag, only shorter.


mother_sheep


Jun 29, 2005, 6:28 PM
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The facts are from your many posts on this site that you have had a number of close calls in the last year.

Yep and they've been explained.

In reply to:
The fact is you are a somewhat new climber who feels the need to tell people on this about almost every time she does a route.

Please! Not even close.

In reply to:
You are a internet wanken.

And so are you King of all who wanks!

In reply to:
Most good climbers don't toot there own horn...others do that for them.

Why can't you shut up for 2 seconds talking about yourself in person then?

In reply to:
Fact is... your ambition is far ahead your climbing ability and that is what gets you in trouble.

Wrong! Tell me how the things that I previously listed are a result of me climbing out of my ability!

In reply to:
Fact is... climbers will alway talk about each other. Keep posting s---...and I (and others) will keep on talking.


But they might own up to it.

In reply to:
Fact is... in my opinion from your post you are climbing for a lot of the wrong reasons.

Get into my head and then come back and tell me that. You don't know me and don't know shit about meor why I climb. Broken record.

In reply to:
Fact is... I have never climbed with you.

YAY!

In reply to:
Fact is... I never wanted to and have no reason to.
Go back to Front Range climbing thread and I beg to differ. Phone conversations between you and I as well. You're a liar too! Neat! Such commendable behavoir.

In reply to:
Fact is... from my 35 years of experience climbers like you come and go.
We'll se about that! ;-)

And get your facts straight!


adnix


Jun 29, 2005, 6:30 PM
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Doing it. Trying not to be the asshole but it becomes hard when others are the asshole to you.
Many people been asshole to you? Excluding internet, of course.


mother_sheep


Jun 29, 2005, 6:34 PM
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Doing it. Trying not to be the asshole but it becomes hard when others are the asshole to you.
Many people been asshole to you? Excluding internet, of course.

Actually no. In reality it's never an issue. I've met the greatest people in climbing. Seems to be limited to this thread.


adnix


Jun 29, 2005, 6:42 PM
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Actually no. In reality it's never an issue. I've met the greatest people in climbing. Seems to be limited to this thread.
Well how about some common sense then? Discussion forums are good for killing time, spraying and trolling. Other than that they are a big waste of time.


mother_sheep


Jun 29, 2005, 6:44 PM
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In reply to:
Actually no. In reality it's never an issue. I've met the greatest people in climbing. Seems to be limited to this thread.
Well how about some common sense then? Discussion forums are good for killing time, spraying and trolling. Other than that they are a big waste of time.

Yeah, very true.


bobd1953


Jun 29, 2005, 6:48 PM
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Go back to Front Range climbing thread and I beg to differ. Phone conversations between you and I as well. You're a liar too! Neat! Such commendable behavoir.

The phone conservation was about a climbing area or something of that matter. Not about climbing with you. It is hard to remember because it wasn't that important.

I have not problem telling you anything to your face.

You are a newbie and acting like one. You haven't done shit for climbing...so let's move on.


zozo


Jun 29, 2005, 6:51 PM
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Before this thread finally dies I just have to know.....

In reply to:
In reply to:
^^Your cyber whipped.

And you’re like Napoleon in drag, only shorter.

Do you mean this Napoleon...

http://www.almaden.ibm.com/...leon-camplex-200.jpg

or this Napoleon?

http://www.joblo.com/...ges2/picnapoleon.jpg


mother_sheep


Jun 29, 2005, 6:53 PM
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In reply to:
Go back to Front Range climbing thread and I beg to differ. Phone conversations between you and I as well. You're a liar too! Neat! Such commendable behavoir.

The phone conservation was about a climbing area or something of that matter. Not about climbing with you. It is hard to remember because it wasn't that important.

I have not problem telling you anything to your face.

You are a newbie and acting like one. You haven't done s--- for climbing...so let's move on.


Bullshit! You have invited me to go climbing, several times fool!

Yeah, I haven't done shit for climbing, like 90% or the people on this site. You're pointless. There's only room enough for 1 Bobd! Thank fucking GOD!

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