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hasbeen
Jun 13, 2003, 11:34 PM
Post #76 of 82
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Registered: May 17, 2003
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In reply to: Sucking the cheese from my scrotum would be of greater benefit to society than the routes these knuckle draggers put-up.
I'm not sure that someone using the above verbiage should be attacking other's intelligence. If you're really a Dr, I'd love to have a glimpse into what you consider to be ethical "bedside manner."
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tripperjm
Jun 17, 2003, 8:51 PM
Post #77 of 82
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
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pbjosh, I hope you have a sence of humor!!!1 I mean no real disrespect to you, I will as Hilary statedIn reply to: give you a straight-up earful if you imply he's chipping at "his" areas. Jeez, why didn't you just straight out ask him if he manufactures holds? He's very accessible, and doesn't seem to waste much time candy coating things. In reply to: In the mean time think about Insomnia and the Vampire they are both chis jobs, can you figure out which holds? How about the Cookie cliff or any number of cliffs in Yos? Your really have no clue do you? BTW I'll be at Williamson on thursday afternoon, why don't you come out climbing with me and show me all the chised holds you've "heard enough about from enough people I respect"? You were pretty specific when naming myself and others, now I would like you to name your respected sources! No f-cking excuses! In reply to: It seems some people are very opinionated and lack experience... And of course some folks don't know how to recognize an artificial hold when they see one or think they see one. In reply to: The Vampire is a very deserving route. It's really not much of a testpiece for the grade, but it is a stellar line and one of the best routes in socal. In reply to: I've heard enough about Williamson from enough people whose opinions I respect to include it... I've heard from probably a dozen people about chipping at Williamson, some directly implied it was you. In reply to: Tell me your climbing heroes and I might have a story for ya
Still want to play? Your post.In reply to: I fortunately don't have enough experience with the rock at hand to comment. In reply to: These debates are, in general, magazine fodder bounced back and forth between armchair mountaineers who are basically too lazy to get out there and do anything themselves. Not to say their opinions are without merit, but until you've established some first ascents yourself and seen what it's really like, you'll seem much wiser to offer thoughts, as opposed to voicing strong convictions that are probably going to change if you were ever to enter the arena yourself. In reply to: However, I think a chippers witch hunt is a long overdue exercise. In reply to: This is an ancient issue that was resolved almost 20 years ago but most of the people on this site were'nt around then. You can complain and call names all you want on the internet, you go to your crags and we'll go to ours and everything will be ok. Maybe try focusing your outrage on something important In reply to: Obviously there are grey lines. I'm not including prying off flakes or crufty rock or pin scars, just obviously chipped/drilled/enlarged/manufactured holds. In reply to: Here's a start, not going with places with one chipped hold but places where it predominates. Known chipped areas: Williamson Rock New Jack City Mt Charleston Mt Potosi In reply to: Yes the majority of newer areas in the U.S. have manufactured holds. They are new because they were considered unclimable choss until somebody stepped up and did what was necessary to develop the crag. There is nothing wrong with taking a few otherwise worthless chosspiles and converting them into outdoor gyms. You can still go get your trad jollies at crags that are'nt developed this way. In reply to: Williamson. I've climbed there a fair amount and enjoyed it. I haven't been to New Jack but I might sometime In reply to: Presumed chippers. If anyone can clear any of these people, as I cannot either damn them or prove them innocent, please step forward. I'm going purely on what I've heard when I've heard it from a lot of people and will happily eat crow if I'm wrong (and I wish I were about some of these folks): Tony Yaniro Randy Leavitt Jack Marshall Joe Brooks In reply to: I've heard from probably a dozen people about chipping at Williamson, some directly implied it was you. I've also heard plenty about chipping at the hand of Randy Leavitt which I'm inclined to believe, but I don't have nearly as much info, kinda same goes for Louie Anderson though I'm for the most part more certain of that one. Tony Yaniro's activities in Vegas and Wild Iris at least have been well documented in the mags and all over the place. In reply to: As Hillary suggested, I'll just straight up ask - have you chipped holds at Williamson? How about New Jack? In reply to: If you tell me you've never chipped a hold I'll believe you - honest. But I'd like you to just be honest with what you've done. It seems like everyone (particularly Aaron Rough) dodges the issue excessively. In reply to: Sorry if making a list pisses people off but hey, chipping and being shy about the issue pisses a lot of people off as well
I do not support chisseling/drilling pockets.(though I'm thinking about one now, think I'll call it Peanutbutter and Jelly") There is something called cleaning. Local ethics dictate the difference. Cleaning/chisseling (whatever) should only happen on choss piles never on good rock. Wait untill you see my new sh-t hole, I'd use a back hoe to clean with, if I had one and could hike it back to the cliff. It is steeper than God, looser than dirt and will be the next local hot spot in a couple of years when I findly tell people about it. Better get strong, the warm up is 12b. I'm done as of RIGHT NOW paying for and putting the work in to new easier routes in socal, so snott nosed uninformed trash talking punks like you can have fun!!!1 You happy now? Was that straight up enough for you? I'm not pissed, though when I'm excited it may sound like it. (Sh-t matters, it just doesn't mean anything) The next time you trash me your going to turn around and think I'm your new best friend. HAHAHA!!!1 I hope this post was everything you wanted and It was a lot of fun. Don't personalize any of my words, it is just a RANT. Have fun climbing, I do!
boltdude, no worries. I had talked to John after my ascent and before yours and had planned on putting bolts on it, as that crag/area became climber friendly. I still belive any damage to that route was done by other user groups. In any case I will replace your bolt and look at/fix the questioned holds next season if you would like or if you don't chose to do it yourself. Either way I'm OK with it, and thanks for taking action and putting in some bolts. Feel free to put more in, I think there are hundreds of new things that can be done, especially if your willing to get out of the main area.
Ciao
pbjosh I just logged on and saw your latest pm. I'll post what I've already written while on the road. I will also repeat what I said in a pm "nothing good will come out of this thread or me posting again". You have your reply though. I hope it was worth it? Flame on!!!1
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melekzek
Jun 17, 2003, 8:56 PM
Post #78 of 82
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Registered: Nov 16, 2002
Posts: 1456
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woaw, this thread definetely has the longest posts
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sirtis
Jun 17, 2003, 9:21 PM
Post #79 of 82
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Registered: May 3, 2003
Posts: 30
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:arrow: well some of them do look drilled but I personally dont care as long as the climbing is fun.
sirtis
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sirtis
Jun 17, 2003, 9:23 PM
Post #80 of 82
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Registered: May 3, 2003
Posts: 30
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:arrow: well some of them do look drilled but I personally dont care as long as the climbing is fun.
sirtis
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climbsomething
Jun 18, 2003, 3:19 AM
Post #81 of 82
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Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
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In reply to: The next pm or post I get from you better be an apology, answers to my questions, offer of a beer or a request for a romantic date.
But seriously. Cool on you for responding directly, Jack...
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micahmcguire
Jun 18, 2003, 4:12 AM
Post #82 of 82
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
Posts: 889
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m'kay kids, like drilling holes is bad, m'kay. m'kay
Mr Mackey everybody, thank you thank you. Most of those holds don't look drilled to me by the way. A couple do. Shame on whoever altered the rock. Shame on sheittalkers. More power to the Irish.
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