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tarsier
May 19, 2004, 1:07 AM
Post #76 of 84
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Registered: Jun 7, 2003
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"Big Walls" by Long and Middendorf is a good read if you're getting started in aid climbing.
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ricardol
May 19, 2004, 3:57 PM
Post #77 of 84
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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sheesh .. what a long thread ..
.. my $0.02 ..
.. unless you're breaking new barriers in the world of climbing... (like the hubers) .. who gives a rat's ass what is harder or what is more cutting edge ..
.. kodos has some valid points .. aid climbing is available to the masses .. all it takes is some courage, some good planning, some good advice, and some big cojones ..(or ovaries) ..
kodos: .. which do you think was the harder thing to do for me in my fist 12 months of climbing
1. swinging leads on east buttress of middle (5.9) <-- hardest + longest trad climb i was on in 2003 (i led the crux pitch)
2. aid-soloing zodiac on el capitan for my first ever big wall. 6 days on the wall. prior experience: 4 pitches of aid-soloing. (A1) -- no experience with hauling, no experience with nailing prior to blasting off. but i had damm good pitch by pitch beta.
.. so who cares what is the most cutting edge thing to do, (unless you're one of those people doing it) ... i really dont think that the fact that the huber's were in the process of freeing zodiac at the same time that i ascended takes anything away from my ascent... in fact i see them as very comparable achievements (of course this is in my little world!).. each of us took on as a project the hardest thing we could do at the present time ..
.. so really -- maybe climbing for you should be more about doing the hardest thing you can do at the time regardless of what climbing style you are doing (sport, trad, aid, etc).. and not keeping up with the whatever the cutting edge is .. (unless of course kodos, you are the cutting edge)...
.. at the same time -- i agree with your point .. anyone can climb A1, and A2 .. or C3 .. it just takes the right gear, and some balls.
-- ricardo
-- ricardo
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lambone
May 19, 2004, 4:17 PM
Post #78 of 84
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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In reply to: .. at the same time -- i agree with your point .. anyone can climb A1, and A2 .. or C3 .. it just takes the right gear, and some balls. -- ricardo
yeah, anyone can climb C3, especially with pitons :twisted:
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ricardol
May 19, 2004, 5:08 PM
Post #79 of 84
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In reply to: In reply to: .. at the same time -- i agree with your point .. anyone can climb A1, and A2 .. or C3 .. it just takes the right gear, and some balls. -- ricardo yeah, anyone can climb C3, especially with pitons :twisted:
lamb ..
give me a f*cking break ..
some pitches went clean (C3) some went A2 ..
-- ricardo
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wyclimber
May 19, 2004, 5:26 PM
Post #80 of 84
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Registered: Dec 21, 1999
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Mac,
Aid doesn't necessarily have anything to do with steepness of the rock.
There are free climbs that are wildly overhanging yet your granma could probably get up them if she put her mind to it. Also, there are aid climbs that are slabby but require aid to climb.
Aid is more the method of ascent. Take El cap for example, what used to be hammer-in-aid type climbing now goes as clean aid because of the scars left by hammering. These climbs have sections that free climbers can tackle, but some folks will still aid them as a matter of style preference. It just depends on the experience you are looking for or the level of free climbing competence you have.
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lambone
May 19, 2004, 6:49 PM
Post #81 of 84
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: .. at the same time -- i agree with your point .. anyone can climb A1, and A2 .. or C3 .. it just takes the right gear, and some balls. -- ricardo yeah, anyone can climb C3, especially with pitons :twisted: lamb .. give me a f*cking break .. some pitches went clean (C3) some went A2 .. -- ricardo
jeez...relax bro, just pulling yer chain.
just agreeing with your point that anybody can climb easy aid with the right gear (i.e. pitons).
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ricardol
May 19, 2004, 6:52 PM
Post #82 of 84
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: .. at the same time -- i agree with your point .. anyone can climb A1, and A2 .. or C3 .. it just takes the right gear, and some balls. -- ricardo yeah, anyone can climb C3, especially with pitons :twisted: lamb .. give me a f*cking break .. some pitches went clean (C3) some went A2 .. -- ricardo jeez...relax bro, just pulling yer chain. just agreeing with your point that anybody can climb easy aid with the right gear (i.e. pitons).
:-) ..
.. it wasn't until i saw the fuming smiley face (what ever it is called) that i got bent out of shape ..
.. its true ..
.. btw .. i'm going to learn to climb A3 next month .. should be fun .. i think the possiblity for a 40 footer will be there ..
-- ricardo
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lambone
May 19, 2004, 9:08 PM
Post #83 of 84
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In reply to: .. btw .. i'm going to learn to climb A3 next month .. should be fun .. i think the possiblity for a 40 footer will be there .. -- ricardo
right on! just make sure your first A3 has a nice clean fall.
my first was the roof pitch on the Shield. nice big fall potential here. my second was right above Chicken Head ledge, less exposed, but much scarier.
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ricardol
May 19, 2004, 9:39 PM
Post #84 of 84
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In reply to: In reply to: .. btw .. i'm going to learn to climb A3 next month .. should be fun .. i think the possiblity for a 40 footer will be there .. -- ricardo right on! just make sure your first A3 has a nice clean fall. my first was the roof pitch on the Shield. nice big fall potential here. my second was right above Chicken Head ledge, less exposed, but much scarier.
for sure -- .. its going to be one of the A3 pitches on "Son Of Heart" .. which one is not yet decided (i'll make that decision when i see it and the fall potential) .. seems from looking at the topo that the pitches exiting the top of th heart would have plenty of exposure and clean falls.. (dont know what they go at though) ..
.. its gets steep after that anyways ..
-- ricardo
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