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sungam
Sep 20, 2008, 9:49 AM
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jmvc wrote: kman wrote: In reply to: I think the most common thing I see is non doublebackers and peole when making an anchor only vlipping a biner on tope of the rope instead of tieng a bight or through the webbing so that if one bolt or pro fails the carabiner flies of the side resulting in certain death. I've rung out a few people for that one :?: Am I the only one that can't make sense of this? No
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sungam
Sep 20, 2008, 9:50 AM
Post #77 of 163
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jmvc wrote: amber wrote: at the end of a long day and the beginning of a long rappel, tie a proper stopper knot. And if you don't like stopper knots?
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jmvc
Sep 20, 2008, 10:37 AM
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sungam wrote: jmvc wrote: amber wrote: at the end of a long day and the beginning of a long rappel, tie a proper stopper knot. And if you don't like stopper knots? I think she means at the end of the ropes.
Yeah, that's what I thought she meant. I don't like them.
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sungam
Sep 20, 2008, 11:34 AM
Post #79 of 163
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jmvc wrote: sungam wrote: jmvc wrote: amber wrote: at the end of a long day and the beginning of a long rappel, tie a proper stopper knot. And if you don't like stopper knots? I think she means at the end of the ropes. Yeah, that's what I thought she meant. I don't like them.
Why don't you like them?
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AltitudeJunkie
Sep 20, 2008, 7:59 PM
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i think i actually was looking something up about trad climbing, ya know the usual screwing around on the internet, right, and for some reason this was one of the top forums that came up. So i took a look. And yes, i did actually read through ALL of the posts. lol! There was stuff I read that I never even thought of when i started climbing. I've never been the type to try stuff because it seems safe and should be safe. I don't do things climbing that I haven't been instructed on how to do, and had my work checked out. It seems that some noobs don't think like i do.
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i_h8_choss
Sep 20, 2008, 8:11 PM
Post #81 of 163
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biggest n00b mistake: signing up for rc.com and then posting a question.
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heavydude
Sep 23, 2008, 10:14 AM
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This just happened to me on the weekend. Somehow I ended up at a scout camp with two guys I've never met before.
We were just talking about ourselves and one of these guys asked me where I learned to tie knots. I said I climbed and went canyoning.
This guy then dissapears and comes back in a little while, he puts something on the table in front of me. I look down and its an old Chounard pulley.
He then tells me how he used to belay with it.
I said What? How the f... do you belay with a pulley?
He said he would put the pulley between the biner and a stitch plate. He went on to explain how he didn't like friction on the rope when he belayed.
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 11:13 AM
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AHAHAHA!
Doesn't like the friction! haha!
-.-
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rhythm164
Sep 23, 2008, 11:45 AM
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once a couple years ago @ our local crag, we were walking down the cliff face at the end of a day, looking for that one last route to wrap things up, and came upon 3 guys on a 5.5 crack using a 2 ton hand winch attached to a large mooring (the crag is right along a waterway) at the cliff top for an anchor. Best of all, the rope was just looped through the hook of the winch, nothing keeping it there besides dumbluck and gravity.
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 11:57 AM
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Rofl, they just used a bit off a boat?
lol.
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Rocknovice
Sep 23, 2008, 3:18 PM
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Concentrating on falling instead of climbing.
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AZBones
Sep 23, 2008, 7:31 PM
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2-3 years ago we were coming down from a local climb and on the approach wall, bout 50' tall, two guys were rap'n down on 1"tubular webbing
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 7:35 PM
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AZBones wrote: 2-3 years ago we were coming down from a local climb and on the approach wall, bout 50' tall, two guys were rap'n down on 1"tubular webbing
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AZBones
Sep 23, 2008, 7:37 PM
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We caught them before they started down so we set our ropes and let them rap our lines
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 7:53 PM
Post #91 of 163
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AZBones wrote: We caught them before they started down so we set our ropes and let them rap our lines
Didn't the guys at the gearshop enquire when the bought X0m of webbing from the store?
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Maddhatter
Sep 23, 2008, 8:54 PM
Post #92 of 163
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Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors.
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 9:00 PM
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Maddhatter wrote: Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors.
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Maddhatter
Sep 23, 2008, 9:27 PM
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sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors. I don't use cordalette and my anchors are eq'ed.
Yea there are a few ways to EQ gear I just like the cord-o-let the best myself.
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 9:28 PM
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Maddhatter wrote: sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors. I don't use cordalette and my anchors are eq'ed. Yea there are a few ways to EQ gear I just like the cord-o-let the best myself. 
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Maddhatter
Sep 23, 2008, 10:45 PM
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sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors. I don't use cordalette and my anchors are eq'ed. Yea there are a few ways to EQ gear I just like the cord-o-let the best myself. Cord-o-death? oh noes!
WTF is that about? lol A cord-o-let is one of the safest ways to EQ an anchor. Why in the world would you say it's not?
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flipnfall
Sep 23, 2008, 10:54 PM
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Didn't have time to read everyone's response, but I definitely vote for the following n00b mistake because it's one I made as a n00b.
Not listening to the advice of others or not accepting advice from others even when other climbers were being really nice about how they give that advice.
GT
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sungam
Sep 23, 2008, 11:03 PM
Post #98 of 163
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Maddhatter wrote: sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: sungam wrote: Maddhatter wrote: Not learning how to use a cord-o-let and useing un EQ'ed anchors. I don't use cordalette and my anchors are eq'ed. Yea there are a few ways to EQ gear I just like the cord-o-let the best myself. Cord-o-death? oh noes! WTF is that about? lol A cord-o-let is one of the safest ways to EQ an anchor. Why in the world would you say it's not?
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NJSlacker
Sep 24, 2008, 5:06 AM
Post #99 of 163
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nobody ever asks me about buying 100+ feet of 1 inch tubular for slacklining, so I never tell them. For all they know I'm off to rap down a cliff.
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rtwilli4
Sep 24, 2008, 5:38 AM
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I think my most common mistake has been jumping on something near or at my limit without warming up. I haven't ever climbed anything over 6 pitches and haven't climbed much trad at all so the mistakes I could have made were all pretty insignificant.
I think the most common "mistake" I see n00bs making is always in the way they are belaying. From clipping in wrong to letting go of the rope, there are so many different mistakes I've seen n00bs make, but it always has something to do with belaying.
Also, when I see people learning to lead sport, I notice that they do dumb things at the anchor like untying their knot without running the rope through the anchor or at least securing it to themselves in some way.
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