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caughtinside
Jul 30, 2013, 10:29 PM
Post #100376 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: caughtinside wrote: and some bad news for me on the shoe front. I've been basically cycling through the same 3 pairs of boots since late 2008. I do use moccs for gym and cracks, but I've been using the discontinued scarpas for everything else. Sadly, I was informed by my resoler this morning that one pair is pretty much dead. shredded midsole, stitching popping all over inside the shoe including under the rands. I think the shitty midsole material was why they were axed in the first place, it broke down pretty quickly. I need to find a gnu boot. Well that sucks. What scarpas were they?
spectros. Long since discontinued.
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caughtinside
Jul 30, 2013, 10:29 PM
Post #100377 of 105309
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whoo!
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caughtinside
Jul 30, 2013, 10:29 PM
Post #100378 of 105309
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camhead
Jul 30, 2013, 11:42 PM
Post #100379 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: [image]http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s308/caughtinside_bucket/photo_zps277afe3a.jpg[/image] ferk. let's try this Atlantis P1? Good one. I thought it was Ankles. Irregardless, I'm still bummed that the needles burned themselves down when we tried to climb there. Totally bitchin. yeah, you should really climb at teh needles. you'd enjoy it. So, I showed this pic to a friend of mine, and he said "are you sure that's not Tiffany Campbell?" Hehe I thought jack was one of the few people who looked better with badly-bleached hair than he does au naturel.
Yes, much better than Banz.
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camhead
Jul 30, 2013, 11:45 PM
Post #100380 of 105309
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Beat down. Just finished climbing six days straight, and feel it. Went to Endless with Joe, with the goal of only doing tard that we'd not done before. Got my R face skillz on a bit, which was fun. Also got to put my foot over my head for the start of this OW, which was rad, but I tweaked my hamstring doing it. Need to take a few rest days now, but that was a fucking amazing week.
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cracklover
Jul 31, 2013, 4:47 AM
Post #100381 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: here is a Q for the 5.10 guys... where do the analsazi velcors rank in terms of stiffness in the 5.10 line? verdes blancos stonelands?? arrowheads galileo DidI miss any popular ones? My friend the Needle was interested.
Less stiff than verdes, blancos, and galileo. I can't speak to the other two, as I've never climbed in them.
GO
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murf
Jul 31, 2013, 3:39 PM
Post #100382 of 105309
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Stonelands are actually pretty soft. The Galileo is my go-to shoe, pretty stiff, relaxed heel (hate that classic Anasazi heel).
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dr_feelgood
Jul 31, 2013, 8:37 PM
Post #100383 of 105309
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Just got back from more moderate alpine granite. Got caught in a decent sized thunderstorm right as we started to rap.
PG didn't eat the entire day, and bonked megahardcore.
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caughtinside
Jul 31, 2013, 8:54 PM
Post #100384 of 105309
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gotta keep snacking, even if you aren't hungry. Stay safe up there.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 31, 2013, 9:35 PM
Post #100385 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: gotta keep snacking, even if you aren't hungry. Stay safe up there.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 31, 2013, 10:05 PM
Post #100386 of 105309
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Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it!
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snoopy138
Jul 31, 2013, 10:06 PM
Post #100387 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it!
AB?
are they inquiring into your fascism skills?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 1, 2013, 3:20 AM
Post #100388 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it!
All from the same username?
PM me the username, I'll ban the spambot, if I can. Though the regular ban doesn't stop someone from sending PMs, only the big red guys can actually completely disable the username, and right now RC is a rudderless boat with nobody steering.
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cracklover
Aug 1, 2013, 3:18 PM
Post #100389 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it! All from the same username? PM me the username, I'll ban the spambot, if I can. Though the regular ban doesn't stop someone from sending PMs, only the big red guys can actually completely disable the username, and right now RC is a rudderless boat with nobody steering.
He said email, not PM.
Climbed after work yesterday and did *not* get rained on, which was a nice change.
GO
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dr_feelgood
Aug 1, 2013, 3:19 PM
Post #100390 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it! All from the same username? PM me the username, I'll ban the spambot, if I can. Though the regular ban doesn't stop someone from sending PMs, only the big red guys can actually completely disable the username, and right now RC is a rudderless boat with nobody steering.
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snoopy138
Aug 1, 2013, 4:07 PM
Post #100391 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it! All from the same username? PM me the username, I'll ban the spambot, if I can. Though the regular ban doesn't stop someone from sending PMs, only the big red guys can actually completely disable the username, and right now RC is a rudderless boat with nobody steering.
I assume it's e-mails from various dictatorial governments looking for mercenaries.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 1, 2013, 4:38 PM
Post #100392 of 105309
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cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it! All from the same username? PM me the username, I'll ban the spambot, if I can. Though the regular ban doesn't stop someone from sending PMs, only the big red guys can actually completely disable the username, and right now RC is a rudderless boat with nobody steering. He said email, not PM. Climbed after work yesterday and did *not* get rained on, which was a nice change. GO
Doh, reading comprehension fail!
I went to the gym last night for the first time since I came back from Xzz. Not so much to climb, but to set. Got two boulder problems up, which turned out pretty nice, if i have to say so myself. Amazingly enough, even though it is summer, and it is hot as hell, the gym was absolutely packed with topropers. The expansion of the TR areas can't come soon enough (but the sweet thing is that training area and the new bouldering bay are going FIRST!)
They are continuing to rebuild and expand, which is pretty awesome. The gym now have a REALLY SWEET training corner which is set up for something like 8 hangboards, with built-in pulleys for weight subtraction, if needed. The hangboards are arranged on this huge A-frame that is sticking out from the wall in a way that makes it possible for 4-6 people to do the sets together and have the weights, timer, etc. be in a central location.
They also moved the campus board there, too, and the systems wall is going up next.
And it is ALL out of the way of kids walking from the pizza table to the bathroom and wanting to do some pullups. YAY!!!! I am sort of patting myself on the back for this new setup, even though I didn't do any building, I just talked to people who were doing the building. it kinda helps that the guy who is doing all the construction is one of the gym members.
It is still, unfortunately, too hot to do a hangboard workout in the gym in summer, but it would be awesome in winter.
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caughtinside
Aug 1, 2013, 5:09 PM
Post #100393 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it! All from the same username? PM me the username, I'll ban the spambot, if I can. Though the regular ban doesn't stop someone from sending PMs, only the big red guys can actually completely disable the username, and right now RC is a rudderless boat with nobody steering. He said email, not PM. Climbed after work yesterday and did *not* get rained on, which was a nice change. GO Doh, reading comprehension fail! I went to the gym last night for the first time since I came back from Xzz. Not so much to climb, but to set. Got two boulder problems up, which turned out pretty nice, if i have to say so myself. Amazingly enough, even though it is summer, and it is hot as hell, the gym was absolutely packed with topropers. The expansion of the TR areas can't come soon enough (but the sweet thing is that training area and the new bouldering bay are going FIRST!) They are continuing to rebuild and expand, which is pretty awesome. The gym now have a REALLY SWEET training corner which is set up for something like 8 hangboards, with built-in pulleys for weight subtraction, if needed. The hangboards are arranged on this huge A-frame that is sticking out from the wall in a way that makes it possible for 4-6 people to do the sets together and have the weights, timer, etc. be in a central location. They also moved the campus board there, too, and the systems wall is going up next. And it is ALL out of the way of kids walking from the pizza table to the bathroom and wanting to do some pullups. YAY!!!! I am sort of patting myself on the back for this new setup, even though I didn't do any building, I just talked to people who were doing the building. it kinda helps that the guy who is doing all the construction is one of the gym members. It is still, unfortunately, too hot to do a hangboard workout in the gym in summer, but it would be awesome in winter.
why don't you set up a hang bored at home?
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camhead
Aug 1, 2013, 6:20 PM
Post #100394 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it! All from the same username? PM me the username, I'll ban the spambot, if I can. Though the regular ban doesn't stop someone from sending PMs, only the big red guys can actually completely disable the username, and right now RC is a rudderless boat with nobody steering. He said email, not PM. Climbed after work yesterday and did *not* get rained on, which was a nice change. GO Doh, reading comprehension fail! I went to the gym last night for the first time since I came back from Xzz. Not so much to climb, but to set. Got two boulder problems up, which turned out pretty nice, if i have to say so myself. Amazingly enough, even though it is summer, and it is hot as hell, the gym was absolutely packed with topropers. The expansion of the TR areas can't come soon enough (but the sweet thing is that training area and the new bouldering bay are going FIRST!) They are continuing to rebuild and expand, which is pretty awesome. The gym now have a REALLY SWEET training corner which is set up for something like 8 hangboards, with built-in pulleys for weight subtraction, if needed. The hangboards are arranged on this huge A-frame that is sticking out from the wall in a way that makes it possible for 4-6 people to do the sets together and have the weights, timer, etc. be in a central location. They also moved the campus board there, too, and the systems wall is going up next. And it is ALL out of the way of kids walking from the pizza table to the bathroom and wanting to do some pullups. YAY!!!! I am sort of patting myself on the back for this new setup, even though I didn't do any building, I just talked to people who were doing the building. it kinda helps that the guy who is doing all the construction is one of the gym members. It is still, unfortunately, too hot to do a hangboard workout in the gym in summer, but it would be awesome in winter. why don't you set up a hang bored at home?
Because for a good workout you need at least three different boreds. I just got the metolius contact, hung it at a friends house.
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caughtinside
Aug 1, 2013, 6:49 PM
Post #100395 of 105309
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camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it! All from the same username? PM me the username, I'll ban the spambot, if I can. Though the regular ban doesn't stop someone from sending PMs, only the big red guys can actually completely disable the username, and right now RC is a rudderless boat with nobody steering. He said email, not PM. Climbed after work yesterday and did *not* get rained on, which was a nice change. GO Doh, reading comprehension fail! I went to the gym last night for the first time since I came back from Xzz. Not so much to climb, but to set. Got two boulder problems up, which turned out pretty nice, if i have to say so myself. Amazingly enough, even though it is summer, and it is hot as hell, the gym was absolutely packed with topropers. The expansion of the TR areas can't come soon enough (but the sweet thing is that training area and the new bouldering bay are going FIRST!) They are continuing to rebuild and expand, which is pretty awesome. The gym now have a REALLY SWEET training corner which is set up for something like 8 hangboards, with built-in pulleys for weight subtraction, if needed. The hangboards are arranged on this huge A-frame that is sticking out from the wall in a way that makes it possible for 4-6 people to do the sets together and have the weights, timer, etc. be in a central location. They also moved the campus board there, too, and the systems wall is going up next. And it is ALL out of the way of kids walking from the pizza table to the bathroom and wanting to do some pullups. YAY!!!! I am sort of patting myself on the back for this new setup, even though I didn't do any building, I just talked to people who were doing the building. it kinda helps that the guy who is doing all the construction is one of the gym members. It is still, unfortunately, too hot to do a hangboard workout in the gym in summer, but it would be awesome in winter. why don't you set up a hang bored at home? Because for a good workout you need at least three different boreds. I just got the metolius contact, hung it at a friends house.
That sounds like a major design flaw to me.
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snoopy138
Aug 1, 2013, 6:58 PM
Post #100396 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it! All from the same username? PM me the username, I'll ban the spambot, if I can. Though the regular ban doesn't stop someone from sending PMs, only the big red guys can actually completely disable the username, and right now RC is a rudderless boat with nobody steering. He said email, not PM. Climbed after work yesterday and did *not* get rained on, which was a nice change. GO Doh, reading comprehension fail! I went to the gym last night for the first time since I came back from Xzz. Not so much to climb, but to set. Got two boulder problems up, which turned out pretty nice, if i have to say so myself. Amazingly enough, even though it is summer, and it is hot as hell, the gym was absolutely packed with topropers. The expansion of the TR areas can't come soon enough (but the sweet thing is that training area and the new bouldering bay are going FIRST!) They are continuing to rebuild and expand, which is pretty awesome. The gym now have a REALLY SWEET training corner which is set up for something like 8 hangboards, with built-in pulleys for weight subtraction, if needed. The hangboards are arranged on this huge A-frame that is sticking out from the wall in a way that makes it possible for 4-6 people to do the sets together and have the weights, timer, etc. be in a central location. They also moved the campus board there, too, and the systems wall is going up next. And it is ALL out of the way of kids walking from the pizza table to the bathroom and wanting to do some pullups. YAY!!!! I am sort of patting myself on the back for this new setup, even though I didn't do any building, I just talked to people who were doing the building. it kinda helps that the guy who is doing all the construction is one of the gym members. It is still, unfortunately, too hot to do a hangboard workout in the gym in summer, but it would be awesome in winter. why don't you set up a hang bored at home? Because for a good workout you need at least three different boreds. I just got the metolius contact, hung it at a friends house. That sounds like a major design flaw to me.
in teh hangbored or teh kamhed workout regimen?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 1, 2013, 7:52 PM
Post #100397 of 105309
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Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Ok. Which cockbag signed me up for the spam emails. I've got 30 fucking emails in my box here. And I don't even use it! All from the same username? PM me the username, I'll ban the spambot, if I can. Though the regular ban doesn't stop someone from sending PMs, only the big red guys can actually completely disable the username, and right now RC is a rudderless boat with nobody steering. He said email, not PM. Climbed after work yesterday and did *not* get rained on, which was a nice change. GO Doh, reading comprehension fail! I went to the gym last night for the first time since I came back from Xzz. Not so much to climb, but to set. Got two boulder problems up, which turned out pretty nice, if i have to say so myself. Amazingly enough, even though it is summer, and it is hot as hell, the gym was absolutely packed with topropers. The expansion of the TR areas can't come soon enough (but the sweet thing is that training area and the new bouldering bay are going FIRST!) They are continuing to rebuild and expand, which is pretty awesome. The gym now have a REALLY SWEET training corner which is set up for something like 8 hangboards, with built-in pulleys for weight subtraction, if needed. The hangboards are arranged on this huge A-frame that is sticking out from the wall in a way that makes it possible for 4-6 people to do the sets together and have the weights, timer, etc. be in a central location. They also moved the campus board there, too, and the systems wall is going up next. And it is ALL out of the way of kids walking from the pizza table to the bathroom and wanting to do some pullups. YAY!!!! I am sort of patting myself on the back for this new setup, even though I didn't do any building, I just talked to people who were doing the building. it kinda helps that the guy who is doing all the construction is one of the gym members. It is still, unfortunately, too hot to do a hangboard workout in the gym in summer, but it would be awesome in winter. why don't you set up a hang bored at home? Because for a good workout you need at least three different boreds. I just got the metolius contact, hung it at a friends house.
I do have access to 3 different hangboreds right now in Heffe's basement training dungeon, and i do have two hangboreds myself that i need to hang.
But I really don't like lack of warmup options at home. I mean, Heffe has a row machine that will have you breathing hard after 10 min, and gymnastic rings, pull up bar, etc, and there are always ROM stretches and pushups, and other stuff to do for general warmup, but I feel much better if I do warmup by traversing/easy climbing. All this other stuff doesn't quite warmup my wrists/fingers the way climbing does.
And also, it is not quite so mindnumbingly boring if you have people to do this workout with, instead of counting seconds in solitude.
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dr_feelgood
Aug 2, 2013, 8:10 PM
Post #100398 of 105309
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Going to get a gnu dog tomorrow!
Similar breed to the_axemurderer's dog, but a mutt.
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snoopy138
Aug 2, 2013, 10:11 PM
Post #100399 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: Going to get a gnu dog tomorrow! Similar breed to the_axemurderer's dog, but a mutt.
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snoopy138
Aug 2, 2013, 10:25 PM
Post #100400 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: let's see. kind of a mediocre weke end on the eastside. drove up with teh asiant and teh brit through some surprising rain in the owens valley friday night, this led to us checking the weather report. 40% chance of t-storms for saturday, not really ideal. figured I should set up the tent rather than sleep on teh ground, turned out to be a gud idea since it rained for several hours that night. got started late, and once the clouds moved out of the canyon it seemed like a nice day in Pine Creek. warmed up on B-Gizzle, which is a pretty terrible rowt. got on Flamethrower, which I'd hung on a couple years ago, zent that. then things started going downhill. got on one of Big Tony's rowts that I'd seen on MP ... it had some fun climbing through the roofs mixed with some kind of awkward shit that Tony's way into. Got above the chain draw and realized that shit was not going to work with a 60m rope. Decided it was a lot easier to ditch an old biner than to deal with trying to deal with any of the options for cleaning the rowt (had no belay device, there was no convenient lower anchor). Lowered off that and the chain on the previous bolt and cleaned. Brit and teh asiant went up and did an easier rowt on the ministry wall, and we met one of Big Tony's buddies from Bishop. He wanted me to check out his new rowt and get an opinion on the rating, but rain started coming in. Just when it seemed like it would stop, it started getting worse. Went up to the gecko wall at their suggestion, and the wall and climber stayed dry, but not the belayer. The brit got dumped on while I tried the 12a right of Atomic Gecko (Bionic? Chronic? some other name?). Onsighted the 11+ climbing up to the crux, then was completely stymied. It's a full wingspan move to the right to a decent sidepull, with no feet. As soon as I tried to let go with the left hand, my shit came right off. While I was hanging, a massive thunderclap came in. Tom Addison was one rowt over, we both started figuring out the fastest way to the top and off. Had to get the stick clip up to get through that move, then it was pretty easy to the top. Lowered off and hiked out. Bear Crag discussion later ... came close to onsighting Flamed Thrower, but was stymied by the upper crux at the last bolt. That is a fucking cool rowt. Would have to put it up there as one of the better sport rowts I've been on.
let's see ... got up early sunday morning, hiked in to teh bear carg. things started owt okay ... got on Right Again to warm up, got a little bit pumped, not two much. teh asiant didn't really want to lead, and teh rowt traverses a shitload (hence teh name). so teh brit agreed to lead it as well. bad plan. this turned into some hour-long nonsense of him refusing to commit to moves and coming back down to grab the draw and hang. eventually he decided that he could not commit to a section at the top and it was unclear whether there was enough rope for the stick clip, so teh asiant agreed to lead after he lowered off. she zent, barely holding on at the top. teh brit cleaned it.
I got on Flamed Thrower next ... got through the technical crux in the middle of the route (a big move off of a kind of crappy left hand with your feet way underneath you to a sharp, but decent 3-finger pocket), got to a pretty good rest at the third to last bolt. It was jugs up to the second to last bolt, and I figured that the climbing up to that point felt legit for the grade, so maybe the difficulties were over. not so much, it turns out. from the penultimate bolt, it's a sequence of crimps where your foot options are either to have them way underneath you on a previous column where you can't see, or get all scrunched up. so at that point, I have the chain draw hanging in my face (2 out of 9 are fixed), I'm hanging off 2 crimps in a crappy position, and I fall off. take a rest, and off the dog from the last bolt I was barely able to get the last draw clipped. the holds above the draw are also crimps, though I think the best bet is to move to the upper left hand crimp and clip right handed. above that, it's a big left hand move to another crimp, then you get your feet above the last roof and can stem back/left a bit so the climbing eases to the anchor (not easy, but the pump factor lessens).
after teh asiant onsighted the standard warmup (Chicks Dig It) and teh brit followed, I took another try on flamed thrower. got up to the chain draw, and couldn't clip it. fialure. shit. lowered off, and teh asiant cleaned the rowt on TR by that time, it was time to hike out so we could get back to LA for teh brit's midnight flight back to australia.
want to get back there, that rowt is definitely among the best sport rowts I've been on. sustained jugs with occasional crimps (up to the final sequence, when it's 8 crimps in a row) on cool tiered column-underside roof climbing.
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