|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
May 1, 2014, 2:09 PM
Post #102451 of 105309
(4482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: climbingtrash wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: Cheesecake for lunch... doesn't seem to be on the approved list of foods for any diet. But I made a mean chocolate ganache espresso cheesecake for Heffe's birthday, an I brought leftovers to work, and I forgot my lunch at home. So... cheesecake it is! And I am not sorry. Not a bit. Oh, and Ed brought homemade ginger syrup to make coctails last night. And then left all the ginger-soaked-in-syrup at my place. So I am drying it to make candied ginger. But at the rate it is going, the ginger will be all eaten, before it candies. OMG, so good! In other news, I need to learn how not to eat and be hungary again for my annual spring weight loss. I'm a bit better off this year than last year and don't have as much weight to drop, but damn I love eating and damn I hate feeling hungry. You need more friends like Banz. I am down 5 lb from Feb 14th. But yeah, I hear you. I love food way too much. For me, the main thing these past few weeks was getting Heffe on board with the plan. He refrained from bringing me any chocolates, or ice cream, or Bailey's, since mid-Feb. My downfall has always been snacking. I have very good discipline in the grocery store, and I am really good at not buying bad things. I am also pretty good at packing healthy food for lunch in reasonable portions. But if I am at home, and I have some chocolate-covered somethings, and I am reading a book, or watching a movie... ahh, that is a problem. Seeing Banz's facebook status show he's lost what, 10 lbs in 2 months, makes me feel guilty. I know that I have way less extra weight to lose than he does, but I'm dreading trying to cut down 5-10lbs and I know it's going to take way longer. Meth could be yore solushun? So they were talking about Toronto's Mayor Rob Ford on the radio again this morning about another video of him smoking crack. So I think to myself....how can that fucker still be so fat? He hasn't fully devoted himself to the cause. Fuckin amateur.
He has the fat genes AND the addiction genes. Sucks to be him.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
May 1, 2014, 2:42 PM
Post #102452 of 105309
(4475 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
granite_grrl wrote: Climbing update. Not sure why I was so lax when it came to training this winter. Guess I was feeling strong when I went out ice/mixed climbing on the weekends. Nathan made me some Hit strips last fall that I've barely used, but decided I needed to get serious about getting back into rock climbing shape. So I decided to do a full workout with them last night. Fucking pathetic is what it was. It's been raining here all week. Hopefully we'll be able to get to the crag this weekend.
Well, at least you are getting back into it (TM)
Did my 3rd rehab hangbored workout yesterday. Alone, because Ed had surgery on Tuesday (so Tuesday night I hung out with him and fed him dinner... there is a rotation of people lined up to ease the post-surgery period a bit. but any way you look at it, it Sucks! It will be a while before he is back into even hangboarding shape. They pretty much removed the entire meniscus in his left knee, it was more seriously damaged than they even thought, going into the surgery)
Heffe hung out on the couch while I hung off the hangboard, and we wanted some episodes of the 3rd season of Game of Thrones, that he hasn't seen yet. it was actually an amazingly- good accompaniment to hangboard! I think I am going to make a point of watching a movie while I hang.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
May 1, 2014, 5:30 PM
Post #102453 of 105309
(4441 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
granite_grrl wrote: So I'm just going to leave this hanging here. Viva?
la resistance is ded, much like its founder and sole member.
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
May 2, 2014, 12:52 PM
Post #102454 of 105309
(4393 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I'm just going to leave this hanging here. Viva? la resistance is ded, much like its founder and sole member.
This place is ded.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
May 2, 2014, 2:38 PM
Post #102455 of 105309
(4377 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
Went to the gym last night. Got frustrated. We have a new head route-setter, who is a very prolific setter (and super-strong climber). He is not very tall, but with a positive ape index, he climbs strong and "tall", and he sets everything at the limit of his reach, assuming that everyone will be taller than him. Which means that literally EVERYTHING he sets is guaranteed to have a move that is about 4 inches out of my reach.
Don't get me wrong, he sets really good routes. And I appreciate the fact that they make me climb dynamically. There are now lots of "easy" dynos (the ones on easy problems that were not meant to be dynos, but are dynos for me, and are perfect to get me to swing and jump more.)
The problem is, when you get into routes that are not just jughauls, the long moves don't go away, and they become the tension-y moves to bad holds that you really aren't MEANT to dyno.
I guess for 4x4s, etc, i can just modify the problems for my own purpose, add a foot here or a hand there, who cares. But there is no way I can set enough problems to keep myself wanting to come back to the gym and work on stuff.
I was told by someone who was watching me try yesterday, "if I were your height, I would just give up and never climb in the gym".
Gee, thanks! But yeah, pretty much how I felt yesterday.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
May 2, 2014, 3:58 PM
Post #102456 of 105309
(4366 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I'm just going to leave this hanging here. Viva? la resistance is ded, much like its founder and sole member. This place is ded.
well, that is also true.
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
May 3, 2014, 3:13 PM
Post #102457 of 105309
(4264 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I'm just going to leave this hanging here. Viva? la resistance is ded, much like its founder and sole member. This place is ded. well, that is also true.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
May 5, 2014, 11:57 AM
Post #102458 of 105309
(4168 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
Weakend report:lotsa shit happening here. We started getting a lot of improvements done at the campground, new fire rings to keep the idiots from setting the NRG ablaze again, pay station installed to make my jorb easier.
Tomorrow having a book release party here, I'm going to give a short slideshow tying SoUT Environmental history to Appalachia, then booze and dessert, and my jazz musician family that lives in Ga even drove up to play music. Sweet! On top of that, my bosses who own the CG are coming out from CO to inspect the place, so I'm on edge for that.
Oh, and fired the mega-ARGH-prodge yesterday! Felt pretty good, kept it together even though the scariest gear placement (1 ballnut) before the crux wound up pulling out three times when I pull tested it before it stuck. Gud thymes!
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
May 5, 2014, 1:28 PM
Post #102459 of 105309
(4164 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
camhead wrote: Weakend report:lotsa shit happening here. We started getting a lot of improvements done at the campground, new fire rings to keep the idiots from setting the NRG ablaze again, pay station installed to make my jorb easier. Tomorrow having a book release party here, I'm going to give a short slideshow tying SoUT Environmental history to Appalachia, then booze and dessert, and my jazz musician family that lives in Ga even drove up to play music. Sweet! On top of that, my bosses who own the CG are coming out from CO to inspect the place, so I'm on edge for that. Oh, and fired the mega-ARGH-prodge yesterday! Felt pretty good, kept it together even though the scariest gear placement (1 ballnut) before the crux wound up pulling out three times when I pull tested it before it stuck. Gud thymes!
Ballnuts are freaky that way. I've been told that if you can get them to not pull out when you're testing them they're pretty solid, but I haven't tested that concept.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
May 5, 2014, 2:30 PM
Post #102460 of 105309
(4154 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
camhead wrote: Weakend report:lotsa shit happening here. We started getting a lot of improvements done at the campground, new fire rings to keep the idiots from setting the NRG ablaze again, pay station installed to make my jorb easier. Tomorrow having a book release party here, I'm going to give a short slideshow tying SoUT Environmental history to Appalachia, then booze and dessert, and my jazz musician family that lives in Ga even drove up to play music. Sweet! On top of that, my bosses who own the CG are coming out from CO to inspect the place, so I'm on edge for that. Oh, and fired the mega-ARGH-prodge yesterday! Felt pretty good, kept it together even though the scariest gear placement (1 ballnut) before the crux wound up pulling out three times when I pull tested it before it stuck. Gud thymes!
Gud werk!
Regarding ballnuts, I walked past the route on Saturday called Ballnuts, and Brassies, and Busted Ankles. 12a R at the Choco factory, right up your current alley!
I had a sucky weekend, even though the weather was perfect, and the crags were mostly empty, with a perfectly-small number of familiar people spread out thinly here and there.
To give you an idea, Oompa and Loompa had NOBODY on them for most of the day. And when there was somebody on them, it was somebody who quickly ran up the route, because, OMG, it was empty, you had to do it, you never get a chance to do it without waiting!
The Grumpalump area had no one, not a single person, when we walked past it. Not even on 10a arete!
The entire hardman cave on the right had 5 people in it, total. I think we saw about 10 people total in the entire day, and I knew every one of them. And when we left on Saturday afternoon, around 6p.m., the entire motherlode parking lot had 6 cars in it. It was UNREAL.
Same shit on Sunday. Went to the Lode. Perfect day, low humidity, crisp rock, temperatures feeling perfect in the shade. And it was completely deserted. As in, we were the one and only group of 2 people in the entire Undertow area for the first hour or so.
people trickled in later in the day, but in very small numbers. There was nobody projecting Chainsaw, or Ale8, of Kick Me, or Burlier's. There was no line on anything. I took 3 goes on Tuna Town, Max tired Convicted and Hoofmaker, and at no point in the entire day did you see more than maybe 4-5 people climbing at the same time in the entire Undertow/Madness cave area. Again, all the familiar faces. Ran into Greg and Camhead's spirit twin Paul with way more curly hair, and all the usual people.
It was unreal. i don't know what it was that kept people away, but I hope we have another weekend like this, only with me climbing a bit better!
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
May 5, 2014, 3:10 PM
Post #102461 of 105309
(4149 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
lena_chita wrote: Went to the gym last night. Got frustrated. We have a new head route-setter, who is a very prolific setter (and super-strong climber). He is not very tall, but with a positive ape index, he climbs strong and "tall", and he sets everything at the limit of his reach, assuming that everyone will be taller than him. Which means that literally EVERYTHING he sets is guaranteed to have a move that is about 4 inches out of my reach. Don't get me wrong, he sets really good routes. And I appreciate the fact that they make me climb dynamically. There are now lots of "easy" dynos (the ones on easy problems that were not meant to be dynos, but are dynos for me, and are perfect to get me to swing and jump more.) The problem is, when you get into routes that are not just jughauls, the long moves don't go away, and they become the tension-y moves to bad holds that you really aren't MEANT to dyno. I guess for 4x4s, etc, i can just modify the problems for my own purpose, add a foot here or a hand there, who cares. But there is no way I can set enough problems to keep myself wanting to come back to the gym and work on stuff. I was told by someone who was watching me try yesterday, "if I were your height, I would just give up and never climb in the gym". Gee, thanks! But yeah, pretty much how I felt yesterday.
Here's an idea: instead of whining to the gerks (not that I'm not entertained to hear your story, but...) talk to the routesetter. I'm sure he'd be willing to at least set a few hard routes for shorties.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
May 5, 2014, 3:18 PM
Post #102462 of 105309
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Spent Saturday working on the house, which mostly consisted of destroying brain and lung cells refinishing the front door. They say first impressions are important, and our front door has always been in shitty condition. Now we're selling the house, we're fixing all the shit that's been bugging us the last six years. Weird, wouldn't it make more sense to fix it earlier so you can enjoy it yourself? Meh.
Sunday, went climbing with Allison and a friend of ours in Boulder Canyon. Allison got on a some-time project, which if she put in the work, would be a good candidate for her first 12a. But she gets on it once a year, so... She pretty much one hung it her first try, and then botched a bunch of sequences and hung the crap out of it her second try. She was frustrated, but dealt with it well. If she can find the time to go and work the moves, I'm sure it'll go.
I got on nothing new to me - there's nothing at that crag I haven't done that I'm interested in. Just playing good belayer for the day.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
May 5, 2014, 3:59 PM
Post #102463 of 105309
(4142 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: Went to the gym last night. Got frustrated. We have a new head route-setter, who is a very prolific setter (and super-strong climber). He is not very tall, but with a positive ape index, he climbs strong and "tall", and he sets everything at the limit of his reach, assuming that everyone will be taller than him. Which means that literally EVERYTHING he sets is guaranteed to have a move that is about 4 inches out of my reach. Don't get me wrong, he sets really good routes. And I appreciate the fact that they make me climb dynamically. There are now lots of "easy" dynos (the ones on easy problems that were not meant to be dynos, but are dynos for me, and are perfect to get me to swing and jump more.) The problem is, when you get into routes that are not just jughauls, the long moves don't go away, and they become the tension-y moves to bad holds that you really aren't MEANT to dyno. I guess for 4x4s, etc, i can just modify the problems for my own purpose, add a foot here or a hand there, who cares. But there is no way I can set enough problems to keep myself wanting to come back to the gym and work on stuff. I was told by someone who was watching me try yesterday, "if I were your height, I would just give up and never climb in the gym". Gee, thanks! But yeah, pretty much how I felt yesterday. Here's an idea: instead of whining to the gerks (not that I'm not entertained to hear your story, but...) talk to the routesetter. I'm sure he'd be willing to at least set a few hard routes for shorties. GO
Don't you think I have already tried?
That's just how he sets. And I can objectively say that his routes are very good, even when I cannot do them, because I can see that it is a very cool sequence, and he is good at setting routes that force you to do specifically the sequence he had in mind, without making it stupidly contrived. And, the majority of gym patrons are taller than me and love his routes, so there is a lot of positive feedback (completely deserved). There are several other setters who set just stupidly reachy routes that aren't good or interesting, so I have something to compare it to.
It is not his job to set routes for me personally. Routesetters need to cater to representative population, and if I represent a small fraction of 1 percent of anyone trying his routes... well, then, too bad! But the end result is that if there is one foot jib, and one foot only, and that crimp gaston I am supposed to go to in a slow and controlled way is 4 inches out of my reach... I am stuck with adding another foot, so I can replicate the move everyone else is doing, or just walking away from the problem and trying something else... with the same results.
I can (and do) set routes myself. But that's the thing-- I am good at setting routes that I can do, not so much at setting routes that I can work on in a meaningful way. When I set something that I can't do, I get three possible scenarios:
1) it becomes just an endurance problem. I can do individual moves, and "working the problem" means that I just need to work on endurance to put them together. All well and good, people like when I set one of those, but I might as well do a 4x4, in terms of what this is giving me, as far as training benefits.
2)the moves I set are awkward and not cool. The difficultly comes from awkwardness. I eventually get it, but get no satisfaction out of it, and everyone hates this problem, so hardly anyone climbs it, and I feel bad, because, after all, I am supposed to set the routes for the gym, for other people to climb.
3)it is stupidly hard for me, and I see no improvement in my attempts to stick the move. This is no different than the dozens of problems that are already on the wall, so I might as well take a pick of those.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
May 5, 2014, 5:19 PM
Post #102464 of 105309
(4130 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I'm just going to leave this hanging here. Viva? la resistance is ded, much like its founder and sole member. This place is ded. well, that is also true. Blame donny.
I blame CI.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
May 5, 2014, 8:53 PM
Post #102465 of 105309
(4101 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: Went to the gym last night. Got frustrated. We have a new head route-setter, who is a very prolific setter (and super-strong climber). He is not very tall, but with a positive ape index, he climbs strong and "tall", and he sets everything at the limit of his reach, assuming that everyone will be taller than him. Which means that literally EVERYTHING he sets is guaranteed to have a move that is about 4 inches out of my reach. Don't get me wrong, he sets really good routes. And I appreciate the fact that they make me climb dynamically. There are now lots of "easy" dynos (the ones on easy problems that were not meant to be dynos, but are dynos for me, and are perfect to get me to swing and jump more.) The problem is, when you get into routes that are not just jughauls, the long moves don't go away, and they become the tension-y moves to bad holds that you really aren't MEANT to dyno. I guess for 4x4s, etc, i can just modify the problems for my own purpose, add a foot here or a hand there, who cares. But there is no way I can set enough problems to keep myself wanting to come back to the gym and work on stuff. I was told by someone who was watching me try yesterday, "if I were your height, I would just give up and never climb in the gym". Gee, thanks! But yeah, pretty much how I felt yesterday. Here's an idea: instead of whining to the gerks (not that I'm not entertained to hear your story, but...) talk to the routesetter. I'm sure he'd be willing to at least set a few hard routes for shorties. GO Don't you think I have already tried?
I don't know if you've tried talking to him or not, since you made no mention of it. If you did, what was his response?
In reply to: That's just how he sets. <snip> It is not his job to set routes for me personally.
No, it's not his job for him to set for you personally, but it is his job to set routes for everyone. That does not necessarily mean that every route has to be set for everyone, but it does mean that everyone should have something he's set that is a good challenge.
It is absolutely possible to set a route that forces certain moves, even for someone with a tiny reach. It does require some extra attention, but a good routesetter (as it sounds like he is) can do it. He may not want to take the trouble for every route. But he absolutely should take the trouble for some routes.
BTW, I'm speaking both as a former routesetter (for two different gyms, for five years, for regular routes, and for comps), and also as husband to Allison, who is short and has a negative two ape index. So I know of what I speak.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
May 6, 2014, 11:41 AM
Post #102466 of 105309
(4061 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
snoopy138 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I'm just going to leave this hanging here. Viva? la resistance is ded, much like its founder and sole member. This place is ded. well, that is also true. Blame donny. I blame CI.
*nods hed*
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
May 6, 2014, 11:59 AM
Post #102467 of 105309
(4058 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
So I decided to put on a woman's sport climbing clinic with the toronto section ACC. Originally I was going to allow 8 participants and I'm making Nathan help me. After talking this weekend I decided to cap it off at 6.
Hoping to do a lot of instruction, so many people are clueless about sport climbing, they think it's just going out and clipping bolts. They don't have a sweet clue about going out an working a route or getting on something above their limit, or at least around here. Plus, I'd say that most ladies struggling in the 5.10 range have a lot of headspace issues, which is where the women's part of the clinic comes in.
So last night I get an email asking if I have any more room. A lady that I like and would love to have in the clinic wants in....and she wants 3 other people to come to. 4 more people! I don't think I can expand from 6 to 10 without a lot of loss of information, but I'd really like to let these women come. Thoughts?
(This post was edited by granite_grrl on May 6, 2014, 12:04 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
May 6, 2014, 12:02 PM
Post #102468 of 105309
(4058 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
In other news, my legs are really tired from doing running intervals last night (1:30 fast, 1:00 recover x 11) and I may or may not have tweaked something in my back when climbing on Sunday. Should make tonight's road ride interesting.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
May 6, 2014, 1:54 PM
Post #102469 of 105309
(4049 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
granite_grrl wrote: So I decided to put on a woman's sport climbing clinic with the toronto section ACC. Originally I was going to allow 8 participants and I'm making Nathan help me. After talking this weekend I decided to cap it off at 6. Hoping to do a lot of instruction, so many people are clueless about sport climbing, they think it's just going out and clipping bolts. They don't have a sweet clue about going out an working a route or getting on something above their limit, or at least around here. Plus, I'd say that most ladies struggling in the 5.10 range have a lot of headspace issues, which is where the women's part of the clinic comes in. So last night I get an email asking if I have any more room. A lady that I like and would love to have in the clinic wants in....and she wants 3 other people to come to. 4 more people! I don't think I can expand from 6 to 10 without a lot of loss of information, but I'd really like to let these women come. Thoughts?
Offer a second clinic a short while later. And offer to let them know if someone on the first list cancels. I agree that 10 people is way too many.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
May 6, 2014, 2:07 PM
Post #102470 of 105309
(4048 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
A non-climbing funny. I hope the history nerds (cam-cough-head!) will appreciate.
Last night at Cinco de Mayo tango milonga (it was a big-ish deal, bc it also happens to be their 4th anniversary at this location) a lady sitting across the table from me (a really nice, very friendly, and seemingly well educated lady...) says musingly: "Cinco de Mayo... it's fun to drink cheep Mexican beer, and all, but what I want to know is, who are they celebrating their independence FROM?"
I gape at her, trying to decide how much Civil war history i want to go into. I just about settle on to "Uh, it is not... (Independence day)", when she continues, with this bright happy expression. "I suppose it's the Britain!"
At this point I close my mouth, decide that Civil war and French would be definitely too much info, and shortly say, "Spain! That's why Mexicans speak Spanish. They were under Spanish rule."
Her response: OMG, you are RIGHT! I never thought of it this way, but you are right! They do!
Seriously, wtf is wrong with people?
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
May 6, 2014, 3:22 PM
Post #102471 of 105309
(4043 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I decided to put on a woman's sport climbing clinic with the toronto section ACC. Originally I was going to allow 8 participants and I'm making Nathan help me. After talking this weekend I decided to cap it off at 6. Hoping to do a lot of instruction, so many people are clueless about sport climbing, they think it's just going out and clipping bolts. They don't have a sweet clue about going out an working a route or getting on something above their limit, or at least around here. Plus, I'd say that most ladies struggling in the 5.10 range have a lot of headspace issues, which is where the women's part of the clinic comes in. So last night I get an email asking if I have any more room. A lady that I like and would love to have in the clinic wants in....and she wants 3 other people to come to. 4 more people! I don't think I can expand from 6 to 10 without a lot of loss of information, but I'd really like to let these women come. Thoughts? Offer a second clinic a short while later. And offer to let them know if someone on the first list cancels. I agree that 10 people is way too many.
Yeah, I'm thinking that's the best option....it may have to be later in the summer though as I'm not super keen on giving up another climbing day too soon.
Most people who do these events for the Toronto section ACC just do climbing days and will allow 10+ people. I may be going outside the box by actually trying to edumacate people.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
May 6, 2014, 3:39 PM
Post #102472 of 105309
(4042 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I decided to put on a woman's sport climbing clinic with the toronto section ACC. Originally I was going to allow 8 participants and I'm making Nathan help me. After talking this weekend I decided to cap it off at 6. Hoping to do a lot of instruction, so many people are clueless about sport climbing, they think it's just going out and clipping bolts. They don't have a sweet clue about going out an working a route or getting on something above their limit, or at least around here. Plus, I'd say that most ladies struggling in the 5.10 range have a lot of headspace issues, which is where the women's part of the clinic comes in. So last night I get an email asking if I have any more room. A lady that I like and would love to have in the clinic wants in....and she wants 3 other people to come to. 4 more people! I don't think I can expand from 6 to 10 without a lot of loss of information, but I'd really like to let these women come. Thoughts? Offer a second clinic a short while later. And offer to let them know if someone on the first list cancels. I agree that 10 people is way too many. Yeah, I'm thinking that's the best option....it may have to be later in the summer though as I'm not super keen on giving up another climbing day too soon. Most people who do these events for the Toronto section ACC just do climbing days and will allow 10+ people. I may be going outside the box by actually trying to edumacate people.
Yeah. I was thinking of the clinics at Rocktoberfest. With FOUR people shepherding it (two sponsored climbers whose names attract people to the clinic, an RRGCC member volunteer, and another volunteer to belay/drive/carry) and 8 people taking the clinic, we barely had enough time to have everyone climb 3 routes. In fact, most people didn't climb three routes, they just hung at the bottom. And I felt that the questions were not really answered in depth, and there were so many topics that weren't even touched on...
The people who signed up for the clinic felt that they had a good time (and the fundraiser clinics are mostly about THAT, no matter what the clinic is called, whether it is intro to climbing or intermediate sport climbing techniques, you still get a bunch of people who can't make their way up a route, can't belay, and are clueless about everything), but I personally felt that they didn't learn much from the clinic, they just had a day of climbing where someone set up ropes and offered encouragement and move suggestions.
If you really mean to teach, even 6 people are too much. but you got to start somewhere...
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
May 6, 2014, 6:37 PM
Post #102473 of 105309
(4025 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I'm just going to leave this hanging here. Viva? la resistance is ded, much like its founder and sole member. This place is ded. well, that is also true. Blame donny. I blame CI. *nods hed*
It is my fault. I post less because every time I do I get unwanted voicemails in the middle of the night! 
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
May 6, 2014, 6:38 PM
Post #102474 of 105309
(4022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
granite_grrl wrote: So I decided to put on a woman's sport climbing clinic with the toronto section ACC. Originally I was going to allow 8 participants and I'm making Nathan help me. After talking this weekend I decided to cap it off at 6. Hoping to do a lot of instruction, so many people are clueless about sport climbing, they think it's just going out and clipping bolts. They don't have a sweet clue about going out an working a route or getting on something above their limit, or at least around here. Plus, I'd say that most ladies struggling in the 5.10 range have a lot of headspace issues, which is where the women's part of the clinic comes in. So last night I get an email asking if I have any more room. A lady that I like and would love to have in the clinic wants in....and she wants 3 other people to come to. 4 more people! I don't think I can expand from 6 to 10 without a lot of loss of information, but I'd really like to let these women come. Thoughts?
No way you can manage 10 students without a second instructor. Plus it waters down the experience for the 6 who signed up first. Just tell them you'll do it again in a couple months. Or tell her its full, but you'll let her slide in solo.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
May 6, 2014, 6:45 PM
Post #102475 of 105309
(4016 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I decided to put on a woman's sport climbing clinic with the toronto section ACC. Originally I was going to allow 8 participants and I'm making Nathan help me. After talking this weekend I decided to cap it off at 6. Hoping to do a lot of instruction, so many people are clueless about sport climbing, they think it's just going out and clipping bolts. They don't have a sweet clue about going out an working a route or getting on something above their limit, or at least around here. Plus, I'd say that most ladies struggling in the 5.10 range have a lot of headspace issues, which is where the women's part of the clinic comes in. So last night I get an email asking if I have any more room. A lady that I like and would love to have in the clinic wants in....and she wants 3 other people to come to. 4 more people! I don't think I can expand from 6 to 10 without a lot of loss of information, but I'd really like to let these women come. Thoughts? Offer a second clinic a short while later. And offer to let them know if someone on the first list cancels. I agree that 10 people is way too many.
durp, that's what I was going to say.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
