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boadman


Jul 29, 2010, 10:55 PM
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I just want to know the basics:

1. Are they easy to place? Are they too flexible/flexible enough?
2. Are they easy to clean?
3. Do they fit in the same spot that you know your green & yellow aliens dominate?
4. Are you actually willing to fall on them with only two lobes in?
5. Do they work well in flared cracks where we needed off-sets previously?
6. Are they really heavy?


bandycoot


Jul 30, 2010, 2:15 AM
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Seeing if they'll hold a fall with 2 lobes was literally on the top of my list of things to investigate. I've taken a 40' fall and was caught by two lobes of a 0.5 camalot, and I've taken repetitive small falls on 2 lobes of a blue alien so I have my hopes up. We'll see though. I may have just been lucky.

However, since they don't recommend falling on two lobes on their website, I'm not sure how fair it is to report the results... Definitely something for me to ponder.

Josh


spikeddem


Jul 30, 2010, 12:50 PM
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Re: [bandycoot] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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Where is everyone getting the idea that these cams look "sexy?" Sure, they promise functionality beyond current cams, but do you really believe they don't look like a toy? Compare with the Ukranian cams.


mattm


Jul 31, 2010, 9:24 PM
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Re: [bandycoot] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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I think, if you're going to do a top notch review, you need to carefully compare and contrast these with what's out there already. People are looking at them for their unique design, sure but, they're also gonna want to know how they stack up against what they're already own. If someone tells me a new belay device is like an ATC guide but better in X ways, I've got a baseline to work with.

Things to cover in a review. Details of them on their own. Quality of Build, Weight, Smoothness of trigger, LOTS of PICS of how the direct loading works. Video would be better still. Then get into placements - Ease of placement and removal. How they do in funky placements (flares, 2 cams etc) How are they for horizontal placements?

THEN, lets see them compared to current cams out there. Based on their sizing, I'd just pick 2 and go from there. Pick the one that's closest in size to a green (best) or yellow alien and then one of the bigger ones (.75 or #1 camalot). Side by side pics of the Totems with: CCH Alien, Met TCU and Master Cams, BD stuff and WC Zeros would be ideal. Compare head width, stem length, cam sizing etc. I'm very interested in the trigger length and how DEEP you can place them. Also interested in the part near the head where all the wires "pass through". Does this affect placements in the small sizes?

Finally, do some real world placement comparisons. Find some pins scars, normal cracks etc etc and show us with pics and words how a Blue Totem Stacks up with the rest in various spots. Preferably do this on granite or some other rock that has a fair bit of variability to the crack shape. Hate reviews that use Desert Cracks with uniform shape. See below for some ideas.


OR


OR



marde


Aug 1, 2010, 10:33 AM
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Re: [mattm] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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Sorry no pictures, and no real comparison test only some firts impressions:
I just took the totem cams for climbing and didn't fall at all, neither on perfect placements nor on the poor ones.
What I can tell you they have a decent range and overlap.
The trigger action is really smooth.
The springs seem a little stronger than on other cams but slightly weaker than those on C3s.
Totem cams are more flexible than most other cams including the mastercams; about as flexible as aliens.
The green totem cam is even more flexible than my orange alien.
The head of the blue totem is about 1mm wider than on the yellow C3, when you only compare the lobes.
The axle has about the same width on both.
Blue to green all have narrower heads than comparable mastercams or aliens.
They fit in scars where otherwise only an offset alien would fit in.
It's next to impossible to overcam the totem cams, because the load bearing cables on the back of the lobe prevent further rotation.
My climbing partner and me never had trouble cleaning;
(at least not on the 14 pitches yesterday with 2 to 4 totem cams placed on every pitch.)
At the end of the day these were the cams I always grabbed first.


Partner devkrev


Aug 1, 2010, 2:03 PM
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Re: [marde] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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Good to hear they didn't get fixed easily/fall out/explode.

dev


mheyman


Aug 1, 2010, 4:10 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
I really think the biggest question on everyone's mind is, "is there potential in these to revolutionize traditional climbing?" Is the first person on the block who gets a set of these going to be able to put up a slew of FAs, or are the funky placements that Totem cams will hold in too rare to make a big difference?

I don't think the lack of cam placements has limited the real leading climbers out there very much. I expect the people in this thread are curious, and want to make easier climbs safer.


mattm


Aug 1, 2010, 9:18 PM
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Re: [mheyman] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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mheyman wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
I really think the biggest question on everyone's mind is, "is there potential in these to revolutionize traditional climbing?" Is the first person on the block who gets a set of these going to be able to put up a slew of FAs, or are the funky placements that Totem cams will hold in too rare to make a big difference?

I don't think the lack of cam placements has limited the real leading climbers out there very much. I expect the people in this thread are curious, and want to make easier climbs safer.

2nd that. I don't think anyone thinks these things are gonna "revolutionize trad". Far from it. It's been a long time since anything like that has happened. Probably TCUs back in the day. Everything since has been a tweak or improvement to existing tech.

I think people want to know how they stack up against existing tech (and fallen from grace tech - CCH).

Me - I'm looking at triples in that size run and want to know if I go Mastceram/BD C4 or tottems.


yokese


Aug 5, 2010, 9:20 AM
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Re: [bandycoot] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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bandycoot wrote:
Well, I'll do my best at throwing these things in funky placements, setting good gear below, and jumping off... Maybe I can answer some of those questions, but I don't think there is the revolutionary potential you're imagining. You're talking about marginal placements suddenly becoming bomber and I don't think that's going to consistently happen with these things. I also think someone would get hurt if they made that assumption and pushed the cams limits assuming that these things would hold everything. That said, I can't wait to get these out on the rock to see what they can do!

Josh


Well...

Yokese, impatient.... Wink


patto


Aug 8, 2010, 1:37 AM
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Just over 24hrs before totem cams start shipping. I hope the reviews will be coming out soon. I'm excited.

I haven't ordered one yet but I'm very tempted to do so if I can afford it. I'll probably get the small blue.

Half the reason I want one is just to show it off to my friends.


boadman


Aug 10, 2010, 12:31 AM
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Re: [marde] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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Does the width of the stem force you to place them in a more horizontal orientation than a similar sized alien in pin scars that bottom out? That sort of placement is the main reason I think C3s suck. Also, how did the compare in terms of range to your aliens? Did they seem to place nicely in comparable spots? The metolius cams are nice, but never seem to go in like they should because of their terrible cam angle...


Partner j_ung


Aug 10, 2010, 2:24 PM
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Re: [boadman] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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boadman wrote:
Does the width of the stem force you to place them in a more horizontal orientation than a similar sized alien in pin scars that bottom out? That sort of placement is the main reason I think C3s suck. Also, how did the compare in terms of range to your aliens? Did they seem to place nicely in comparable spots? The metolius cams are nice, but never seem to go in like they should because of their terrible cam angle...

I would think that in some pin scars, you'd want to only clip the inside stem.


bandycoot


Aug 10, 2010, 2:29 PM
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Re: [j_ung] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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I'll try to write something up next week. I'm busy this week, and I'm hoping to get them out on the rock again this weekend at the Needles. I was planning on doing a preliminary post on them with specs and observations last weekend, but I was sick and just couldn't concentrate enough to accomplish the task.

Hopefully I'll get the chance to take some whips on them in various placements. I've also lined up a much more experienced aid climber than I to take them up a route. They might be able to provide a better comparison to aliens, but I haven't used aliens much in my climbing career. I've got a couple that I can compare things like head width though...

Josh


Partner j_ung


Aug 10, 2010, 2:54 PM
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Re: [bandycoot] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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bandycoot wrote:
I'll try to write something up next week. I'm busy this week, and I'm hoping to get them out on the rock again this weekend at the Needles. I was planning on doing a preliminary post on them with specs and observations last weekend, but I was sick and just couldn't concentrate enough to accomplish the task.

Hopefully I'll get the chance to take some whips on them in various placements. I've also lined up a much more experienced aid climber than I to take them up a route. They might be able to provide a better comparison to aliens, but I haven't used aliens much in my climbing career. I've got a couple that I can compare things like head width though...

Josh

Josh, without holding you to an opinion this early in the review process, do you have any initial impressions?


bandycoot


Aug 10, 2010, 3:27 PM
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Re: [j_ung] totem cams now available? [In reply to]
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I'm going to try to avoid writing the same thing over and over and try to do it in one long writeup. I have a lot of observations about them regarding their pluses and minuses already.

The two things that really need to be tested now are holding power and the ease of cleaning the things (no problems so far FYI), both of which I hope to start really testing out this weekend through a large volume of climbing and possibly intentional and unintentional falls.

I really was planning on doing the writeup last weekend and was bummed to be sick. I'll make it a priority as soon as I'm back from the Needles, and I'll have more experience with them.

Josh


Partner j_ung


Aug 10, 2010, 6:46 PM
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Cool. Looking forward to it.
J


Rudmin


Aug 11, 2010, 6:16 PM
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Just saw something that precludes Totem cams directly loaded camming device patent and possibly the Trango Max Cam too.




boadman


Aug 11, 2010, 7:26 PM
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I never understood why the loading point for the seismo wasn't at the axle. With the two axles, they can rotate around each other and fall out if the placement isn't ideal. It seems like you could do a similar thing by putting some cams on an axle inside one end of a big-bro and have a stem off of the axle. You could get a pretty crazy range for big placements that way.


patto


Aug 12, 2010, 6:47 PM
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Some great photos here:
http://www.forum.planetmountain.com/...5a909b6ffc789be72498

The old video here of the prototypes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zrn_CUEkE20









(This post was edited by patto on Aug 13, 2010, 6:10 AM)


patto


Aug 13, 2010, 6:11 AM
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Partner cracklover


Aug 13, 2010, 4:50 PM
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Anyone found photos of the smaller ones? The two smallest sizes might actually, if they're as good as they promise, someday kick the green and yellow Aliens off my primary rack.

GO


vegastradguy


Aug 13, 2010, 7:15 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Anyone found photos of the smaller ones? The two smallest sizes might actually, if they're as good as they promise, someday kick the green and yellow Aliens off my primary rack.

GO

I've got the whole set- the smallest is nearly identical to the green alien- in range and head width, looks very similar from above with the direct loading cables looking a lot like the internal springs on the alien.

I'll see if i can find a friend with a decent camera to get some pics uoloaded at some point.


davidnn5


Aug 14, 2010, 9:03 AM
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I am jonesing for any kind of review. How do they hold, how do they hold?!

Also, page turn for the win (PTFTW).


billcoe_


Aug 16, 2010, 3:15 AM
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vegastradguy wrote:
I've got the whole set- the smallest is nearly identical to the green alien- in range and head width, looks very similar from above with the direct loading cables looking a lot like the internal springs on the alien.

I'll see if i can find a friend with a decent camera to get some pics uoloaded at some point.

Don't want or need pictures. We have pictures and we know what they look like. Looks don't matter here in either case. What do you guys think about them? Positives, negatives.


Rudmin


Aug 17, 2010, 9:43 PM
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Reviews are in at Mountain Project: http://www.mountainproject.com/...ams_in_slc/106849780

Seems like another cam on the market.

In reply to:
First Impression: Definitely bulky, the "double U" sling set up and the flaring nature of the main wires make these things about 3.5" wide when racked. Racking a whole run on one harness loop is pushing it. (3 out of 5)

Quality control seems high (5 out of 5), the anodization on the cam lobes is top notch. I worry about the small pins used to anchor the wires in the grooves on the cam lobes being popped out if you were really digging at it if it were overcammed and stuck.

Cam action is not quite as smooth as other cams due to friction in the trigger/ main wires (you can feel them moving past eachother) but that isnt a big deal at all in my opinion, (4 out of 5) on trigger action.

I think the falls were closer to 15+ feet as we were frequently landing next to the fixed pin on the face as you move out of the flare from the jug near the top. As Price said we expected them to hold just fine, its a cam, so, after confirming that they held just fine in a good placement, I placed a few marginal placements, and backed them up with (what else) a BD cam, and started ripping them out. Several placements I thought were marginal yet sufficient ripped, I do not believe this is do to the design aspects of the cam, as many other factors play into when a cam will or will not hold.

From an aid only standpoint, when loading two lobes is desired, the design elements of this cam really shine through. With the main wires attached directly to the lobes, the loaded force is in a much more parallel plane than with a main hub/ axel design such as a BD cam where the force is shifted several centimeters out from the cam lobes, making the cam want to twist out of the placement. (5 out of 5)

Overall: Again, Quality. The attention to detail and quality control on these things is outstanding. A little too bulky for my taste, I cannot see a whole lot gained over what is already on the market especially at the price unless you are consistently placing with only two lobes in the rock in an aid scenario.

Ill give em 4 out of 5



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