|
|
|
|
robbovius
Apr 29, 2005, 5:18 PM
Post #12951 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
okay, enough with the love-fest, time for Attic-wallie spray
last night I spent a couple hours thrashing on the home wall, even marking out a couple probls with my big black magic marker.
three problems I have named, one, a right-left traverse that starts on the vert crimp wall called "the Q" (and which I have not completed as yet) and left-right traverse called "T1" which includes a fist jam at the beginning.
Jeff, that dyno problem I showed you guys after CR, I have labeled "The Dyno" ;-) but since I can't do it, I have added one hold to it for a different problem called "Robb's Long Reach".
Harsh, I'll have your contributions installed this weekend sometime.
Highlights:
my wall continues to shred my hands. it's a good time though, couple CDs + big jug of water = 2 hours of pumped-out action. last night I landed hard enough twice to make the CD skip. oof!
"The Q" has a foot-match move on a block about 4 inches square, while you're blindly seeking the handhold around the corner on The Bulge...but, once you get it, you can rest hands, separately...balancy! I've slipped off the foot match about 40% of the times I've gone for it.
If I repeat the beginning of "T1" more than four times, I start feeling neurological effects in my left hand from the fist-jam pressure on the outside of my thumb base knuckle.
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
Apr 29, 2005, 5:43 PM
Post #12952 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
In reply to: Congrats to you too Jason! So did I miss it or have you not decided definitively which school you're going to?
Thanks for the acaleades (sp) all.
Chad, I am unfortunately (for my climbing) moving to Waco Texas to attend Baylor University. I leave for field camp ( a 6 week mapping/camping/geologizing trip through Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, Colorado and Wyoming) in a little under 4 weeks. I will be back in the Boston area from July 4th until about July 28th. At which time I NEED TO GET TO THE GUNKS!!!! After that I am Texas bound for 2 years.
Also, I am attending a hippy wedding at Acadia next weekend which will include a day at Otter cliffs, a day at Beech Mountain and hopefully a day of multi-pitch trad at South Bubble. Any other Massholes up for a trip to Acadia?
Later Y'all,
Jason
|
|
|
|
|
uasunflower
Apr 29, 2005, 7:31 PM
Post #12953 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 1563
|
texas?..what's that about???
congrats anyway to all concerned and happy :D
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
Apr 29, 2005, 7:37 PM
Post #12954 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
In reply to: texas?..what's that about??? congrats anyway to all concerned and happy :D
It's about a FREE M.S. degree w/ a $12,000 stipend.
Have fun in europe.
Jason
|
|
|
|
|
orangekyak
Apr 29, 2005, 8:03 PM
Post #12955 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 1832
|
In reply to: muahahhahahhahaha I PASSED bout frikken time eh? git r dun now i gotta get my CPR recert, some paper work sent in and then i'll be lookin for a real job hellz ya
Congratulations, Jake! Remember to call all your teachers and thank them :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
havmpt
Apr 30, 2005, 4:30 AM
Post #12956 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2004
Posts: 230
|
WAHOOO!!! CONGRATS to Jake and Jason. Can't think of folks who deserve it more. Thank the lord for all the rain and crummy weather that gave Jake time to study! :lol: At any rate, I'm happy for you guys. Best of luck in your futures.
"May the roof above us never fall in,
And may we friends gathered below never fall out."
Cheers,
Holly- the beer wench.
|
|
|
|
|
photonicgirl
Apr 30, 2005, 3:58 PM
Post #12957 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2003
Posts: 152
|
Anyone out there climbing in Great Barrington this Sunday? We will have our bouldering pads, and harnesses...
Jules
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Apr 30, 2005, 9:20 PM
Post #12958 of 22774
(519912 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
hey, to celebrate i said Eff the rain and went to Rumney anyway with Grape. Slept at walmart fri night (much warmer this time than in feb.) got on rock around 8:30-9.. somewhere in there. only got a few routes in but i really just wanted to get out and kate needed the stress relief too so we did Truth in Advertising .7, i did Obi won.9 and Things i never learned.9, then we both did Things i learned in kindergarden .6 as the rains came
short day but was good to get out.. saw a few people from the trail day.. alan and bill were the ones i knew .. what i saw looked ilke it was going pretty well.
saw brett meyers working Storm Troopers.. i wanna try that line so bad but it's a tad out of reach yet
|
|
|
|
|
orangekyak
Apr 30, 2005, 11:33 PM
Post #12959 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 1832
|
Congrats to Jason. Baylor is a fine institution, and we all need occasional institutionalization.
Spent this rain day with Amanda, picking up our wedding rings. Seems that crack climbing has made my knuckles two full ring sizes larger than the rest of my finger. Hehe. After that we saw an amazing lacrosse game:Syracuse at UMass. The home team won in overtime. Good use of a non-climbing day.
I suppose if I were Ukranian, I'd have found a crack to climb to make my knuckles bigger.
|
|
|
|
|
paulthenurse
May 1, 2005, 7:57 AM
Post #12960 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2003
Posts: 221
|
Everyone loves to save a few drakmas.
http://www.steepandcheap.com/steepcheap/index.html?id=iTDsKvyi&mv_pc=434
Too bad you can only buy three at a time. If you sign up for the daily dose they e-mail youwith whatever they are putting on sale for that day. I've picked up a few totally sweet deals.
PTN
Edited to say that they were selling quickdraws for $8.50 at the time I posted this, but its only a one item per day sale and they are gone now.
|
|
|
|
|
paulthenurse
May 1, 2005, 10:15 AM
Post #12961 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2003
Posts: 221
|
In reply to: Do you only pay at the main Trapps parking lot or are you supposed to seek out the fee collector? Now, I will admit to having been vaguely aware that other people had yearly passes for some unspecified reason. My theory though, has always been that if they really want my money, they'll come and ask me for it.
Be careful what you ask for...
Last summer I'm stumped a few moves below a ledge when I hear Ben hollering up from the ground, "Hey Paul?"
"What?"
"There is a Ranger down here and he wants money."
"So pay him."
"I left my wallet in the car."
"I'm a little busy at the moment."
So I go back to trying to figure out the series of moves and forget about it. I'm just getting onto the ledge and building an anchor when I hear "Hey Paul?" again.
"What!" (I'm pretty sure the exasperation was obvious in my tone of voice, even from 80 feet above.)
"Can you throw down your wallet yet? He wants to get going."
My reply was linguistically colorful. Then I threw down my wallet.
PTN
FWIW, I don't mind paying the user fee if it keeps the Preserve going and the cliffs open. Developers would love to snatch up those cliffs and build monsterous trophy houses atop them.
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
May 1, 2005, 2:21 PM
Post #12962 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
WARNING: more attic wallie spray (didn't I tell ya this would happen? ;-) )
I spent part of yesterday shredding my hands on the attic wallie. I have roll of black friction tape I bootied at CR I believe, that I use for abrasion protection up there these days.
Robb's Long Reach is a complete problem/route, with a defined start and finish, and includes at least one but possibly two knee-bars (climbers choice). I can repeat it even! ;-)
once I discovered that a certain feature of my wall allowed (in fact encourages) kneebars, I began figuring out a problem that has a knee-bar start, that I am calling "Double Knee Bar" because that's what you do to get off the ground ;-)
I'd venture that the problems I'm creating on my wall, given my general climbing ability, range from V0- to V1. Everything is pumpy.
Harsh, your contributions are mounted.
more current pics will follwow.
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
May 1, 2005, 6:05 PM
Post #12963 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
can a brotha get an Invite???
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
May 1, 2005, 10:31 PM
Post #12964 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Sure dude.
next week is gonna be tough, in that I'm running sound for the Milford performing arts Ctr spring musical (daughter caitlin is in it) and the rehearsals (tech, Dress, etc) are all week long, with the performances fri, sat (2 shows) & sunday. It's "Seussical the Musical" if anyone is interested. $11 at the door, Milford Town Hall.
...but anyway my climbing time this week will be constrained to either lunchtime Tippling or late night Attic Wallie.
the week after I'll be semi-free. I'll post up.
|
|
|
|
|
photonicgirl
May 1, 2005, 10:44 PM
Post #12965 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2003
Posts: 152
|
Hey I'm jealous. I've always wanted an attic climbing wall!
|
|
|
|
|
the_pirate
May 2, 2005, 1:47 AM
Post #12966 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 3984
|
In reply to: Anyone out there climbing in Great Barrington this Sunday?
I'm curious as to what kind of climbing exists in Great Barrington. Completely unfamiliar with the area, nor do I recall hearing any scuttlebutt.
|
|
|
|
|
photonicgirl
May 2, 2005, 1:51 AM
Post #12967 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2003
Posts: 152
|
World class bouldering and some nice hard trad climbs too.
Very quiet hidden place, locals only, the trilliums are untrampled, there is no litter either.
Perfect for a Sunday. We were there and we were all alone with two sick 5.10 cracks all to ourselves. Finally some boulders came along and found a spot to work their fingers, out of sight.
There's so much in GB, I can't begin to tell you.
Jules
|
|
|
|
|
ambler
May 2, 2005, 11:55 AM
Post #12968 of 22774
(519913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 1690
|
In reply to: Then Camber it shall be. :twisted:
Windfall --> Rapid Transit --> Camber --> Reverse Camber
Not really much harder than Camber alone, that's still the crux by far, but it gets you a lot of quality low-5.10 mileage in besides.
|
|
|
|
|
ic777
May 2, 2005, 2:14 PM
Post #12969 of 22774
(519904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2005
Posts: 52
|
I tried getting one inch tubular webbing at EMS this weekend and all EMSes were sold out except for 8' in Lancaster, PA. I'm going to keep looking but I'm wondering about making the slings for toproping anchors. I've seen the water knot recommended for tying. I also saw something about melting the end after cutting. Can someone give me the procedure for making the long slings for toproping?
Thanks,
Ian
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
May 2, 2005, 2:15 PM
Post #12970 of 22774
(519903 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
I'm going to go bouldering at Hammond Pond this evening after work. Anyone else interested?
GO
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
May 2, 2005, 2:24 PM
Post #12971 of 22774
(519903 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
In reply to: I tried getting one inch tubular webbing at EMS this weekend and all EMSes were sold out except for 8' in Lancaster, PA. I'm going to keep looking but I'm wondering about making the slings for toproping anchors. I've seen the water knot recommended for tying. I also saw something about melting the end after cutting. Can someone give me the procedure for making the long slings for toproping? Thanks, Ian
Ian, the EMS in Marlboro (next to solomon pond mall) had it when I( was there a week or two ago. Check REI, they've ALWAYS got 1 inch tubie.
you could probably also find it at BRG, and any of the online stores like Gearexpress, Paganclimbing, Acmeclimbing, Climbaxe, & sportextreme.
Purchase two books, "Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills", and "Climbing Anchors" by John Long. both of those wil provide pretty much all the info you need on building TR anchors. any of us will be willign to offer (mostly good) advice and critique your anchors & knots, without too much abuse. ;-)
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
May 2, 2005, 2:25 PM
Post #12972 of 22774
(519903 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
In reply to: So I tried leading Send In The Clowns earlier today, which I thought was called Under The Big Top until I just checked the RDB. :? Anyway, being on it made me wonder why people avoid this route. It's ridiculously steep for QQ. It's also an intense outing that is both physical & technical, requiring a wide range of tactics in order to succeed (ala the Gunks). I was utterly gassed when I finally thrutched onto the summit shelf. It's probably a bit harder than the online grade suggests & falling off of it on TR will provide you with a nice big swing into open air. Falling on lead, well... don't ask. :wink: In short it's like a miniature adventure route w/ all of the aspects mentioned above packed into ~50 feet. So why doesn't it see more traffic??? Are the things I pointed out above good or bad? People seem to enjoy sticking to just the slick slabs @ QQ for the most part. Maybe I'm demented? I guess I'm just curious. Your thoughts? @ any rate I am psyched to head back & redpoint it.
In two words: it's intimidating. Most folks going to QQ are looking less for an adventure, and more for a work-out.
But after rope-soloing it to practice my aid climbing over the winter, I saw how sweet a line it is, and I'd love to do it with you some time. Actually, I'd love to lead it as well.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
tcollins
May 2, 2005, 2:28 PM
Post #12973 of 22774
(519903 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2002
Posts: 999
|
Might have been up for HP, but I'm limping on blisters and sore legs from the Walk for Hunger. Walked with Caryn, Jeff, Heaather and two other friends. Together we all raised over $1200. Not bad at all and a nice walk to boot.
|
|
|
|
|
rhonius
May 2, 2005, 2:35 PM
Post #12974 of 22774
(519903 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 20, 2003
Posts: 136
|
In reply to: So I tried leading Send In The Clowns earlier today, which I thought was called Under The Big Top until I just checked the RDB. :? Anyway, being on it made me wonder why people avoid this route. It's ridiculously steep for QQ. It's also an intense outing that is both physical & technical, requiring a wide range of tactics in order to succeed (ala the Gunks). I was utterly gassed when I finally thrutched onto the summit shelf. It's probably a bit harder than the online grade suggests & falling off of it on TR will provide you with a nice big swing into open air. Falling on lead, well... don't ask. :wink: In short it's like a miniature adventure route w/ all of the aspects mentioned above packed into ~50 feet. So why doesn't it see more traffic??? Are the things I pointed out above good or bad? People seem to enjoy sticking to just the slick slabs @ QQ for the most part. Maybe I'm demented? I guess I'm just curious. Your thoughts? @ any rate I am psyched to head back & redpoint it.
I have never lead that route but it is one of my favorite routes for TR and whenever I go to Quincy I try and set on it. It is possible that I like it because I know that no one ever climbs it and no matter how packed QQ is I can always get on it. It is not a hard route once you know the sequence also the new Boston Rocks increased the rating i think a 10-.
|
|
|
|
|
jumaringjeff
May 2, 2005, 3:00 PM
Post #12975 of 22774
(519643 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 30, 2001
Posts: 1838
|
In reply to: Might have been up for HP, but I'm limping on blisters and sore legs from the Walk for Hunger. Walked with Caryn, Jeff, Heaather and two other friends. Together we all raised over $1200. Not bad at all and a nice walk to boot.
Indeed. I'm destroyed. Good times though.
I must heal quickly as I'm running in a 5K next weekend and I need to continue my training asap.
|
|
|
|
|
|
