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lemon_boy
Sep 8, 2006, 3:40 PM
Post #126 of 138
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jto,
it looks like your most 'powerful' sets have the highest number of reps and your most 'enduro' sets have the lowest number of reps. (i concluded this by putting the hang time, rest time, and rep count into excel and sorting). i sorted based first on shortest hang time, then based on longest rest time, and then least number of reps. the results are very interesting to me. i had always equated power with fewest reps and endurance with most reps. can you elaborate on this some? is it a method of equalizing the volume somewhat between power, mid, and enduro?
hang rest reps
5 10 9 (power)
5 10 12 (power)
5 5 7 (mid power)
5 5 7 (mid power)
10 5 5 (mid enduro)
10 5 6 (mid enduro)
15 5 3 (enduro)
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adklimber
Sep 8, 2006, 5:35 PM
Post #127 of 138
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jto said:
In reply to: Even if promoted on some sites I myself donīt believe in useing every possible hand position in a hangboard workout. When doing a bouldering workout itīs different and those should be your main training stuff anyway.
jto,
I am interested in why you would use less grip positions than more; wouldn't the more grips you have, vary the workout even more? Isn't the variety within the session the key?
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lemon_boy
Sep 8, 2006, 7:22 PM
Post #128 of 138
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and here it is folks,
straight from the parish of saint alphonso
Warmup
ARC 20 x 10 x 10min, Jugs, Slopers, 1E(3) alternating
ARC 20 x 10 x 10min 2" Pinch
ARC 20 x 10 x 10min 4" Pinch
Main (1 min rests)
[hang time x rest x reps, grip position]
15 x 5 x 3, 1E(3)
5 x 5 x 6, 1E(3)
5 x 10 x 12, 1E(3)
15 x 5 x 3, 3E(3)
5 x 5 x 6, 3E(3)
5 x 10 x 12, 3E(3)
15 x 5 x 3, 1P(3,4)
5 x 5 x 6, 1P(3,4)
5 x 10 x 12, 1P(3,4)
15 x 5 x 3, 2" Pinch
5 x 5 x 6, 2" Pinch
5 x 10 x 12, 2" Pinch
15 x 5 x 3, 4" Pinch
5 x 5 x 6, 4" Pinch
5 x 10 x 12, 4" Pinch
15 x 5 x 3, Tight Ringlocks
5 x 5 x 6, Tight Ringlocks
5 x 10 x 12, Tight Ringlocks
15 x 5 x 3, Loose Ringlocks
5 x 5 x 6, Loose Ringlocks
5 x 10 x 12, Loose Ringlocks
Cool Down
ARC 20 x 10 x 5min 2" Pinch
ARC 20 x 10 x 5min 4" Pinch
ARC 20 x 10 x 5min tight ringlocks
ARC 20 x 10 x 5min loose ringlocks
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rockprodigy
Sep 8, 2006, 11:57 PM
Post #129 of 138
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Sorry about not getting back to you on that.
Here's what I did last winter to vary my hangboard training:
(# reps) x (rep length in seconds) w/(rest duration in seconds)
1-5: For each of the seven grip positions: 7x7 w/3, 6x7 w/3, 5x7 w/3
6: For each of the seven grip positions: 5x7 w/3, 5x7 w/3, 4x7 w/3, 4x7 w/3
7: For each of the seven grip positions: 7x7 w/3, 7x6 w/4, 6x5 w/5, 6x5 w/5
8: For each of the seven grip positions: 7x7 w/3, 6x7 w/3, 5x7 w/3
9: For each of the seven grip positions: 6x5 w/5, 5x5 w/5
I don't have any real great reasoning for how I picked these combinations, except that I was trying to increase volume in weeks 6, and 7, then tapering off the volume and increasing intensity in 8 and 9. I'm defining volume as (# reps)x(rep length), so for week 1, it would be: 7x7 + 6x7 + 5x7 = 126
Next season I'm going to try to plan it out so I have a steady increase in volume throughout the phase. Perhaps something like:
1: 5x10, 5x7................(85)
2: 7x7, 6x7..................(91)
3: 7x5, 6x6, 5x7.........(100)
4: 7x7, 6x6, 5x5.........(110)
5: 7x9, 7x8................(119)
6: 7x7, 6x7, 5x7.........(126)
7: 7x5, 7x5, 7x5, 7x5..(140)
8: 7x7, 7x6, 6x5, 6x5..(151)
9: 7x7, 6x7, 5x7.........(126)
10: 6x7, 5x5, 5x5......... (92)
Snap!
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jto
Sep 9, 2006, 8:48 AM
Post #130 of 138
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rockprodigy:
the plan seems good. I think the variation in the rep length should produce good gains. anyway I would move between 2 and 15 sec reps as the difference between 5 and 7 secs is not really that much. I would still keep the 5-10 sec range as the main rep length.
it would be certain that your 10-15 sec max result gets better if your 2-5 sec maxes go up. in this time frame the heavier weights also build up endurance.
I also think it would be very beneficial to forget the excact weight used and too much strict planning anyway. it really doesnīt matter that much. one could just choose a weigth and see how it goes. here is a very simplified example for one workout ( or grip position) using only one weight (after warm ups):
1st set: 8x3 secs @ 60 lbs / 7 sec pauses after every rep
2nd set:5x5 secs @ 60 lbs / 5 sec pauses after every rep
3rd set: 3x7 secs @ 60 lbs / 3 sec pauses after every rep
so doing shorter reps concentrates more on maximum strength and longer reps more on the strength endurance end. it is not at all so important how one workout is structured. much more important is the long term ( letīs say 2 months) development.
a starting set could be:
5x5 secs @ 50 lbs / 10 sec pauses after every rep
and after the strength and power phase one could end here:
10x5 secs @ 80 lbs / 5 sec pauses after every rep
if the rest time is kept at 10 secs the weights used would be much bigger. this is just an example and just to show that thereīs no need to set too strict plans of how much one should do within the phase. if the strength is there, use it.
lemon boy:
the number of reps in the shorter (5 sec) rep sets is set more towards basic strength than actual power. if I would enphasize power I would try to do maybe a following set:
3-6x2 secs @ X weight/ 8 sec rests
the number of reps is not so important in this kind of system compared to the rep length and the pauses between the reps. itīs not comparable with weightlifting in that sense. I use this rep system to get more volume compared to straight sets with max hang time (an example: max 12 secs @ 60 lbs and thatīs it for that set).
adklimber:
yes the variation is the key but more within the certain grip type. I think itīs better to concentrate on the main grips as they are the most used in climbing and that said need the most work. the same in weightlifting; itīs not so beneficial to train many different excercises compared to few good ones. the neural effect is better when concentrating on fewer positions.
anyway I donīt see a problem doing letīs say 10 different grips in a workout. it could be a very good idea to mix around simple workouts containing 1-3 grip types with varied ones containing very much different grip positions. in the simple workout there would be more sets per grip and in the varied one less off course.
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spudster11
Sep 10, 2006, 11:26 PM
Post #131 of 138
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Rockprodigy, are you now proposing 10 weeks for hypertrophy vs 6 weeks in your training program article?
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rockprodigy
Sep 11, 2006, 12:30 AM
Post #132 of 138
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No, those are workouts, not weeks. I usually do 2 workouts a week, unless I'm climbing outside a lot, then maybe only one a week, but I average 8-10 workouts in about a six week period.
Wow, that's a run-on sentence!
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adklimber
Sep 14, 2006, 3:50 PM
Post #133 of 138
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JTO said:
In reply to: Openhand three finger pocket: 1st set: 6x10 secs @ 20 kgs / 5 sec pauses between every 10 sec reps 2nd set: 7x5 secs @ 30 kgs / 5 sec pauses between every 5 sec reps 3rd set: 9x5 secs @ 40 kgs / 10 sec pauses between every 5 sec reps Half crimp without the thumb: 4th set: 7x5 secs @ 30 kgs / 5 sec pauses between every 5 sec reps 5th set: 5x10 secs @ 20 kgs / 5 sec pauses between every 10 sec reps 6th set: 12x5 secs @ 40 kgs / 10 sec pauses between every 5 sec reps 7th set: 3x15 secs @ 15 kgs / 5 sec pauses between every 15 sec reps all the sets were ended a bit before failure (failing to get the rep time) except the sets 3, 6 and 7.
I am somewhat confused with the not ending before failure thing. I did this work out last night, and it was good, but I am not sure how hard I should push myself. My mentality has always been to go until I can't go anymore; now that is thrown away, but I am still not sure what it should look like.
What about the rest period between sets? 2 minutes, 3, 4, etc?
Also, should my focus be to increase the weight with each training period? I guess what I am struggling with is the whole philosophy of this training. It seems to contradict everything I have ever done.
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jto
Sep 15, 2006, 5:02 AM
Post #134 of 138
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yes, training to failure is not needed. more important is the progression in
- weights used
- hanging longer time with a certain weight
- doing more reps with the certain weight
- using a smaller grip for the same grip position for the same (or more) weight
when leaving a bit for the next time you can train more often without trashing your nervous system. so as long as youīre doing some or all of the above you donīt have to worry about going to failure. the stimulation is quite enough. vary the grip order and do your weakest grip first.
the rest time between the sets depends of what youīre training for. more weight and short hang times require a bit longer and vice versa. if you need a fixed rest time, I woudl suggest three minutes but this is not so relevant really. start the next set when you feel like youīve had enough rest. when training for strength endurance the rest times are more critical.
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adklimber
Sep 15, 2006, 4:51 PM
Post #135 of 138
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JTO,
Thanks for the response. I am excited to test this out. I love the quick recovery time this gives me, I climb quite a bit, but I need to work on my crimp strength.
Is your focus on hanging alone for your training, or do you also do a periodization program similiar to rockprodigy's, where the campus board is used (if you don't personnally do it, do you recommend it?)?
My training goes into bouldering (even though I do quite a bit of trad). Should I keep the rep length around 3-5 sec and not bother with more time?
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b12yan88
Nov 25, 2006, 10:40 AM
Post #136 of 138
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The link to the training guide doesn't work anymore. Could you post it up again ?
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b12yan88
Nov 25, 2006, 6:24 PM
Post #138 of 138
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Registered: Aug 17, 2006
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thanks
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