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Toy Biner Tested
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tusko


Apr 26, 2004, 11:37 PM
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I find that the praying mantis works quite well on tricky aid placements, but you have to watch out when racking them, as the females tend to bite the heads off the males and when you go to use them, you've got only half as many as you thought


rockzen


Apr 27, 2004, 3:31 AM
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you guys kill me... :lol: :lol:


sarcat


Apr 27, 2004, 2:49 PM
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you guys kill me... :lol: :lol:

OK I'll ask it if no one else will. We've all gotta do our R&D part....

If you're dead would YOU make good pro?


gravy


Apr 27, 2004, 10:53 PM
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I can't friggin' believe there's eleven pages now. Keep it up.


Hmm.. Something to add?

Since "biner" sounds like "bean," can I use beans in a pinch?
Smear with refried?
maybe they're a little more eco-friendly and, since they're brown, blend in with the rock better?
A substitute for chalk?



It's revolutionary!


tusko


Apr 28, 2004, 2:12 AM
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wow. just wow.


imnotbob


Apr 28, 2004, 5:05 PM
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wow. just wow.

tusko,
even through the sterile, cold and impersonal nature of computer talk, I sense the humble pride in your voice - stand tall, man! Be the proud parent!

Someday people will be asking each other, "where were you when you first read/posted the Toy Biner Tested thread?" and will be flooded with memories just like "where were you when you heard Lady Di was in an accident" or "where were you when John Lennon was shot".

Seriously, I'm sure this thread will come back to me someday while I'm crimping nothing more than a shadow on an overhanging route and trying desparately to find something that will work for pro! Then we will see how funny it really is!
~nb


Partner climbinginchico


Apr 29, 2004, 11:06 PM
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I know I still get chuckles when i suggest using a yellow painted lab in those tricky offwidths. some buddies look at me like im insane, the few I have shared this thread with laugh their asses off... it's definitely a classic thread.
I was sitting at my computer, cutting my Principles of Team Sports class. where were YOU? :D


pyrodude


May 7, 2004, 2:09 PM
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Does this thread have any point any more? And another thing you should not use climbing are rubber bands!


blurrybelaybabe


May 7, 2004, 5:24 PM
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I don't think this thread ever had a point and i just read the whole thing, thanks to all of you! it took all of my photography class to read it!! good time killer and very informative. However i have found that the orange extension cords work as the best rope and you can just connect them all so you never have to set up a belay station!


sarcat


May 7, 2004, 7:13 PM
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However i have found that the orange extension cords work as the best rope and you can just connect them all so you never have to set up a belay station!

NO!!!
Don't do it! Orange is flamitory and will encite anger in your rack of bats and cats. You must get green. Don't risk it.


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 4, 2004, 6:36 AM
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bump.


Just cause. Still gives me chuckles...


summit07


Jul 7, 2004, 9:28 AM
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...and you still haven't answered my question about cats....

OK everybody.. this is what happens when you try to learn how to climb on the internet. These forums are littered with n00bs (ahem) doling out advice as if they were seasoned climbers.

I've seen a lot of posts in this thread raving about using cats as protection. This practice is dangerous and should be obsolete. My Black Diamond CatCentrics claim to have six different placement options. This is entirely untrue.

While it may be possible to insert the cat and seat it appropriately in six different positions, a cat is naturally inclined, in the event of a fall, to orient itself such that its feet are pointed toward the ground.

I learned the dangers of this first-hand in Seneca several years ago when my inverted cat placement attempted to land on its feet when I fell. The protection blew and sent me on a 50-foot screamer. The only thing that kept me off the deck was a bomber black lab that I'd tied off with a 2 foot loop of red webbing. Yeah, red webbing -- just gives you an idea of how long ago this was. Man, were we stupid back then or what?

Retire your cats. Or if you insist on climbing with them, please make sure you only seat them with their feet oriented in a proper landing position, and back them up with a more modernized Amazon bat placement.


I think this would be awesome, tye a piece of toast to the back of a cat butter side up, climb a rock using a black lap as an overwidth, and dont forget your Amazon bats and yellow webbing, but no yellow rope. unvelcrow the cat and drop it,from the top see what happens.You kill two birds with one stone, retired the cat, and saw what happenes whether he landed butterside down, or feet first


summit07


Jul 7, 2004, 9:42 AM
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you guys kill me... :lol: :lol:

OK I'll ask it if no one else will. We've all gotta do our R&D part....

If you're dead would YOU make good pro?
I know if i were dead, I would make terriable pro, anyone willing to test this?


jughead


Jul 7, 2004, 6:48 PM
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dead people for use as pro is very good yes, but i find that the living are far more efficient, as they seem to cling on and scamble and claw for dear life when taking a fall, its best to use ones who have families, or large amounts of money in the bank, the ones that work best are the people with winning lotery tickets, those these are hard to find


Partner coylec


Jul 7, 2004, 8:15 PM
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gives a new mental image to "deadman".

on the theme of using beans or rubber bands, duct tape. backstory is unnecessary, but funny:

(1) Using off-the-shelf silver duct tape, it is possible to adhere a female human to a concrete wall.
(2) Using gaffer's tape (which is duct tape on steriods, used in theatre, mainly, i've seen), it was possible to adhere me to a wall.

while you can use duct tape to secure pro, can you use duct tape as pro?

coylec


sarcat


Jul 7, 2004, 8:54 PM
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to adhere me to a wall.

It's official. coylec is a nerd that can be used as smear pro.


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2004, 8:59 PM
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to adhere me to a wall.

It's official. coylec is a nerd that can be used as smear pro.

I would only use him as backup to my black lab in an offwidth... And maaaaaaaaybe to rap off of in a pinch.


summit07


Jul 7, 2004, 11:55 PM
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still i would rather use a cat with no legs rathe thatn him... whos with me? also if you have problems with the cat moving just tape it.. wouldit help if the duct tape was colored blue?


Partner coylec


Jul 8, 2004, 12:45 AM
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to adhere me to a wall.

It's official. coylec is a nerd that can be used as smear pro.

Guess you missed that community thread where i am the reigning KING OF NERDS because i have the highest score on this online dork-o-meter. I'd be honored to be used as a rap anchor, provided of course, i was provided with sufficient alcohol as to make movement impossible.

coylec

edit - and the individual also from oregon won't use me at all. :(


summit07


Jul 9, 2004, 12:22 AM
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.. sorry, no offense i just dont know you. :D Hey if you had a chioce between using Coylec as smear pro or some random person who would you trust?


nolan14


Jul 9, 2004, 1:21 AM
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Wow so I guess I shouldn't have been using those keychain biners and the cheap yellow rope for climbing eh? Although since I use duct tape gloves for better grip I think I'll be ok. Not to mention all the helium balloons (sp) I tape to my butt in case I fall (they also help you make it up the route faster). And for the record, it is best to use de-clawed k9s when climbing.

OMG!!! You use that yellow rope! You are going to DIE! DON"T USE YELLOW ROPE. All the rest of the stuff listed above is ok and I can personally certify it's safety...but that yellow rope I would never trust. :shock:

Don't use the red webbing either. It's weaker than the other colors.
Speaking of webbing, why not use the six pack plastic things they come w/ beer so YOu can get so drunk off your as you don't care.


nolan14


Jul 9, 2004, 1:28 AM
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Hey, anyone know what my 110 lb Black Lab is rated to? Can I use him for lead pro, or just as an anchor for belaying? And then I have my little white mutt, he has a temper and is hyper- Nookie is about 60 lb, I was hoping he would be rated to at least 15 KN. Carrying both of them off my harness gets tough- Nookie has sharp teeth and claws, and Spike is just heavy! Does Nookie get a lower rating because he isn't bred by BD or Petzl?

As stated below your lab is only rated for aid climbing unless you paint him yellow. Standard yellow labs are all good. Remember that when you paint him and it dries that he becomes "stiffer" (don't ask) but then you need to be careful about placing him over edges just like with forged friends. Also, due to the large size labs are only recommended for offwidths. Nookie should be good at any time...at least for me it is. I'd rate nookie at at least 15. Make sure not to use yellow rope for the slings on either piece.

Be sure to bring lots of dog food and doggie puke pill so you can very the size at any time.


nolan14


Jul 9, 2004, 1:37 AM
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The next time someone gets on your case about bringing your dog to the crag, just tell them that he's part of your rack.

If they have read this, They might believe you.


nolan14


Jul 9, 2004, 1:42 AM
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I want to use two dogs in an opposite and opposed configuration for a top-rope anchor. What are the preferred breeds? Since dogs often greet each other in this fashion on the trail anyway (nose to butt...) this would be a natural use for our canine friends.
Yes but what happens when the front dog (w/ nose in as) want smell other dog, I see screamers


nolan14


Jul 9, 2004, 1:49 AM
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I can't believe that in SEVEN pages of this (bearing in mind, you've got the toy biner, the bucket, the water, and the border collie to haul them around), nobody's drawn attention to the "Official" use of "Puffer Fish Pro" :

"Load a wicker creel [bucket] with 5 to 15 fish, with the spines removed prefitting each with a neoprene or C-4 sleeve. On route simply pluck out a puffer, hold it inside the crack, and scream. Frightened, the puffer will swell, creating a secure but temporary chockstone, around which you loop a 1/2 in. tie-off. Our puffers have remained lodged for the duration of full-rope Devil's Tower leads -- the moving rope and rattling carabiners keep the puffer on edge. . . . To deflate, the second can tickle them under the chin with a toothbrush."

-B. Cannon, QUICK CLIPS (by Climbing Magazine), p. 7 (1997).

RHaj

I've tryed that at ground leval and I know you must be careful to find not-to-easyly-scared fish otherwise they puff up too soon, also dont get fearless fish or they deflate to soon, it depends on how they were brought up.

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