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jt512
Jul 7, 2005, 3:36 PM
Post #201 of 205
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Jay, As someone who occasionally sport climbs but is definitely not a Sport Climber (TM), I am truly confused by a couple of your comments. Please explain. Well, mainly you are confused because you took a tongue-in-cheek post and interpreted it literally. Nonetheless, each of my statements contained at least a grain of truth, so, since you asked, I'll explain them one grain at a time. No, I knew you were (more or less) kidding around, but as a nonsporto, I was honestly curious about those grains of truth. I know, for instance, that the gri gri is the gold standard of sport belaying, but other than the fact that the leader can hang repeatedly/forever and the belayer doesn't have to lock him off, I'm not sure exactly *why* it's supposed to be so much better.
It's safer because, if the belayer gets taken out of the game, the climber will likely still be on belay. Rockfall is common at many sport crags, and it is not inconceivable that a belayer could lose control of the belay catching a hard fall, since sport belayers rarely anchor. So, backup from the grigri is nice to have.
In reply to: Having only belayed a sport leader on one a few times (read: not having taken the time to become proficient), I have never mastered being able to pull slack through for the leader to clip without the damn thing locking off---at least not without taking my brake hand off the rope to hold it closed, which doesn't seem too safe to me. Maybe that's just old habits and it would be perfectly fine, but it makes me nervous not having a hand on the brake end of the rope.
Unless you're using a really skinny rope, the only way to get slack out of the gri fast enough for the leader clip is to hold the cam open while pulling out slack. The Petzl-approved method is to use the brake hand, and only the brake hand, to hold open the cam. As soon as enough slack is let out, you get your brake hand right back onto the rope. Part of becoming proficient with the grigri is practicing this maneuver until it beomes second nature; a common error when new to the grigri -- and obviously a dangerous one -- is to leave the brake hand on the cam after pulling out slack.
In reply to: And re. quicklinks, I've used them alpine climbing, but what I should have said was, why would you have them at a sport area? To use instead of bail biners? Izzat why they're a noob marker?
Exactly. Most sport climbers don't want their bolts cluttered up with difficult-to-remove screw links, and would prefer bailers to use bail biners, but you'll often see n00bs who haven't gotten the message yet carrying multiple quick links on their harness. They reason that they save a few bucks, but they haven't thought about the next climber, who will have to remove the link. Most experienced sport climbers don't bail, anyway, but rather use...uh...clever tactics, when necessary, to reach the anchors.
-Jay
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kellie
Jul 7, 2005, 3:57 PM
Post #202 of 205
(15197 views)
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Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 125
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In reply to: Unless you're using a really skinny rope, the only way to get slack out of the gri fast enough for the leader clip is to hold the cam open while pulling out slack. The Petzl-approved method is to use the brake hand, and only the brake hand, to hold open the cam. As soon as enough slack is let out, you get your brake hand right back onto the rope. Part of becoming proficient with the grigri is practicing this maneuver until it beomes second nature; a common error when new to the grigri -- and obviously a dangerous one -- is to leave the brake hand on the cam after pulling out slack.
Yep, that's what I've ended up doing; it just still freaks me out a bit to *ever* take the brake hand off, since I spend most of my time using an ATC or Reverso. If I used one much I'm sure I'd get used to it.
In reply to: They reason that they save a few bucks, but they haven't thought about the next climber, who will have to remove the link.
I spend money on quicklinks, but my bail biners are all free.
In reply to: Most experienced sport climbers don't bail, anyway, but rather use...uh...clever tactics, when necessary, to reach the anchors. -Jay
Even some of us inexperienced sport climbers do that!
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saxfiend
Jul 7, 2005, 4:00 PM
Post #203 of 205
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Registered: Dec 31, 2004
Posts: 1208
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In reply to: So post hard jt512, and go for the Gumby award, I will make one myself for you out of left over shoes.
JL
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jt512
Jul 7, 2005, 4:01 PM
Post #204 of 205
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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In reply to: ...my bail biners are all free.
Yep, it's always good to be in positive bail biner balance.
-Jay
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curt
Jul 10, 2005, 4:05 AM
Post #205 of 205
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
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In reply to: What is actually worse than that was these old wankers spraying about their years of experience and how people should listen to them. If you are so damn great, what in the hades are you doing on this site arguing with little girls? What a bunch of jagoffs!
Well, Jody, I know BobD; BobD is a friend of mine. And you Jody, are no BobD. Hahahaha. Oh, and by the way, we were trying to keep her from killing herself.
how many fucking user IDs does one person need, anyway?
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