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dondada


Jul 31, 2008, 12:49 PM
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weird ethics anyone??
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so most of my short climbing life has been on the west coast from seattle to ventura but i am originally from CT. i recently talked to a guy from CT who said there is not a single bolted route in CT and most surrounding states. no bolted anchors either. he also explained that there is some dude who(if he hears about them) will climb your routes and cut your bolts if you try to establish sport routes. now im getting practice placing gear and i realize trad rocks ect ect ect.....but there is a dope area in my little town that is not developed at all and i do see the value in sport routes(learn skills,safer,climb@ur limit ect.)...so if i put the time in to establish and properly bolt routes in my home town area what gives?? anyone ever heard of such tomfoolery?? any weird ethics in your area? would i be stepping on toes or would my toes potentially be stepped on?


chossmonkey


Jul 31, 2008, 12:59 PM
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Dope man!!!!




Do you really think you should be bolting routes if you don't even know what you are doing?


dondada


Jul 31, 2008, 1:03 PM
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sorry that i didnt emphesize the potentially......it's a thought for the future.....i do "know what im doing"...im asking to get a feel i understand bolting properly is an art and i wouldnt mar any rock prior to being confident i could do a good job


sbaclimber


Jul 31, 2008, 1:32 PM
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Re: [dondada] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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Do a search for Ken Nichols, and read.....and read....and read (there's a lot to be found).
He's the "dude who will ... cut your bolts", and there is quite a bit of history and NE ethics opinions in amongst the discussion around him as well, which should give you some insight into the whole situation.


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jul 31, 2008, 1:33 PM)


Partner j_ung


Jul 31, 2008, 1:33 PM
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Google the name "Ken Nichols," or search it here on RC.com for some background. Then, for an accurate sense of the climate, talk to people in Connecticut.


hafilax


Jul 31, 2008, 4:16 PM
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Doesn't he have a restraining order? Can't come within 500m of a bolt. Wink


dingus


Jul 31, 2008, 4:34 PM
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There is ALWAYS another Ken Nichols waiting in the weeds to chop poorly bolted routes or remove bolts that retro-foul previously ascended rock.

So yes, you should be concerned.

DMT


fresh


Jul 31, 2008, 5:50 PM
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http://www.stopken.org/
omfg

I just saw this for the first time.. dude posted a picture of ken's car and everything. creepy.


healyje


Jul 31, 2008, 6:57 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
Do a search for Ken Nichols, and read.....and read....and read (there's a lot to be found).
He's the "dude who will ... cut your bolts", and there is quite a bit of history and NE ethics opinions in amongst the discussion around him as well, which should give you some insight into the whole situation.

But don't, in any case, assume Ken is entirely alone in his opinions or willingness to protect CT's long history of bold trad climbing...


getout87


Jul 31, 2008, 7:05 PM
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Re: [healyje] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
Do a search for Ken Nichols, and read.....and read....and read (there's a lot to be found).
He's the "dude who will ... cut your bolts", and there is quite a bit of history and NE ethics opinions in amongst the discussion around him as well, which should give you some insight into the whole situation.

But don't, in any case, assume Ken is entirely alone in his opinions or willingness to protect CT's long history of bold trad climbing...

Kind of reminds me of didier berthod. the shot of his bedroom in First Ascent with all the bolts hanging around= prieceless. he's way more bad ass than this guy though.


Valarc


Jul 31, 2008, 7:38 PM
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healyje wrote:
But don't, in any case, assume Ken is entirely alone in his opinions or willingness to protect CT's long history of bold trad climbing...

What about protecting the rights of the land owner?

This shit always drives me nuts, we aren't talking about Yosemite here, we're talking about private property.

Ken is just as much of an asshole as the bitchy old lady across the street who petitioned the homeowner's association to tell me what color I'm allowed to paint my front porch. It's my property and I'll do whatever the hell I want with it, thank you very much.

I will never understand this "old school" ethic that some smelly hippy climbing a rock 20 years ago is somehow more important than the desires of the guy who worked hard to earn money and purchase a piece of land.

Public property? National parks? Shit, local ethics rule. But private property? Cram your ethics up your ass - I still firmly believe in ownership of land and the right of that land owner to do whatever the hell he wants.

Stuff like this makes me want to buy land with a great old-school trad crag and dynamite it just to show these people that they aren't the gods of everything made from stone.


fresh


Jul 31, 2008, 7:58 PM
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Valarc wrote:
Ken is just as much of an asshole as the bitchy old lady across the street who petitioned the homeowner's association to tell me what color I'm allowed to paint my front porch. It's my property and I'll do whatever the hell I want with it, thank you very much.

I will never understand this "old school" ethic that some smelly hippy climbing a rock 20 years ago is somehow more important than the desires of the guy who worked hard to earn money and purchase a piece of land.

Public property? National parks? Shit, local ethics rule. But private property? Cram your ethics up your ass - I still firmly believe in ownership of land and the right of that land owner to do whatever the hell he wants.
I dunno, that doesn't seem right. ownership is a contract between people, not between people and things. rocks don't grow back, so what gives you the right to do to them what you want? your porch is different because it's man-made, no?

but let's remember the one and only reason we care about this, or any other environmental issue: for our children. and our children's children. and so on. I don't have any sentimental attachment to any particular piece of rock, I just want the rest of humanity, so long as we exist, to enjoy it. we only get one shot. if a practice can't be sustained infinitely, then someday it'll have to change. why not start now?

I dunno, my views aren't 100% firmed up, but it doesn't seem right that interpersonal contracts can grant the right to f up a certain part of our awesome world.


zealotnoob


Jul 31, 2008, 8:15 PM
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Didier cranks hard for sure, but don't low-ball Ken. I met him on his 59th birthday and held the rope for him as he took a couple laps on a 12c finger crack. He didn't even break a sweat. According to his dutifully kept climbing log, he was getting close to 90,000 climbs recorded.


dingus


Jul 31, 2008, 8:21 PM
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Valarc wrote:
I still firmly believe in ownership of land and the right of that land owner to do whatever the hell he wants.

Man I don't agree with the 'whatever the hell she wants' attitude AT ALL. Not even remotely.

DMT


wonderwoman


Jul 31, 2008, 8:21 PM
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I love Ken Nichols so much that I'm starting a fund to bolt the Great Wall of China in his honor!

http://books.google.com/...snum=3&ct=result


Valarc


Jul 31, 2008, 8:53 PM
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fresh wrote:
I dunno, that doesn't seem right. ownership is a contract between people, not between people and things. rocks don't grow back, so what gives you the right to do to them what you want? your porch is different because it's man-made, no?

Because I own the land. I'm all for protecting objects of natural beauty, but then if that's the case, make them a park. If it belongs to an individual, I don't want anyone, whether it's the gub'ment, or some smug asshole who thinks his ethics define those of the entire world, screwing with it.

This country was built upon land ownership. My great-grandaddy cut down trees, plowed fields, made a life for his family, and built the home I grew up in. He was able to do this because of land ownership. Take away the rights of a land owner and you take away one of the most cherished values of the American way of life.

If something should be protected, then it shouldn't be in the control of any one person - it should be a public resource. As long as it's not, it's a fundamental part of the way I was raised to respect the rights of property owners.

Either way, I have just as much right to destroy a crag to piss off old-schoolers, as Ken has to "destroy the rock to save it". He's a scumbag and a vandal, and I don't have to have met him to know that. Private property is private property, and he has no business fucking with stuff that BELONGS to other people.


hafilax


Jul 31, 2008, 9:10 PM
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What a circular and incoherent rant!

That argument doesn't make any sense. You both want to protect areas by making them public yet the person that owns it gets to do whatever she wants. So who decides what is protected, the owner or the government? What happens when they take away ownership? But ownership is the most important thing? Only an evil gub'ment would take away ownership.

I think I'll try to convince the government that your house is a historical landmark and that it should be protected from you. You could form a support group with Ken.


stymingersfink


Jul 31, 2008, 9:15 PM
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Valarc wrote:
fresh wrote:
I dunno, that doesn't seem right. ownership is a contract between people, not between people and things. rocks don't grow back, so what gives you the right to do to them what you want? your porch is different because it's man-made, no?

Because I own the land. I'm all for protecting objects of natural beauty, but then if that's the case, make them a park. If it belongs to an individual, I don't want anyone, whether it's the gub'ment, or some smug asshole who thinks his ethics define those of the entire world, screwing with it.

This country was built upon land ownership. My great-grandaddy cut down trees, plowed fields, made a life for his family, and built the home I grew up in. He was able to do this because of land ownership. Take away the rights of a land owner and you take away one of the most cherished values of the American way of life.

If something should be protected, then it shouldn't be in the control of any one person - it should be a public resource. As long as it's not, it's a fundamental part of the way I was raised to respect the rights of property owners.

Either way, I have just as much right to destroy a crag to piss off old-schoolers, as Ken has to "destroy the rock to save it". He's a scumbag and a vandal, and I don't have to have met him to know that. Private property is private property, and he has no business fucking with stuff that BELONGS to other people.
Fact of the matter is, it doesn't entirely work that way. It is within the power of the government to regulate the land use to some extent, regardless of who owns the land, and this is as it should be.

I think even Valarc would pitch a bitch if his next-door neighbor decided he wanted to get into the "Sanitary Landfill" business, or perhaps decided that he wanted to build a privately-owned sewage treatment plant right up-wind or up-stream from his front door.

I grew up in the middle of one of the larger fruit-producing regions of the Pacific Northwest. Sure, the land owner was free to plant whatever crop they felt the market would support, but they were not allowed to apply whatever herbicide or insecticide they wanted to that crop. They had to operate within the bounds of regulation, and this is to protect the rights of those who might be periphially impacted without the benefit of a financial stake in the actions affecting them.


Valarc


Jul 31, 2008, 9:26 PM
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hafilax wrote:
I think I'll try to convince the government that your house is a historical landmark and that it should be protected from you. You could form a support group with Ken.

Please do! With the way the market is going right now, it'll be easier to get out of this pain in the ass neighborhood than selling.

In reply to:
So who decides what is protected, the owner or the government?

The government, because it's the best we've got, unfortunately. Perhaps I wasn't clear enough in my original pissed off rant at the nichols hero worship, but of course society comes first, with large helpings of respect for individual rights. And the rights of the landowner sure as hell trump the rights of the crazy guy sneaking in at night with a crowbar.

Which is more evil, a gub'ment taking away someone's land to protect it, or a lone guy, based on only his own beliefs, on a mission to destroy that person's property?

When the government, as a supposed representative of the will of the people, regulates the use of private land, it is irritating but sometimes necessary. When a rogue egomaniac tries to impose his own will on property owners, it is criminal.


kyleshea


Jul 31, 2008, 10:17 PM
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Valarc wrote:
healyje wrote:
But don't, in any case, assume Ken is entirely alone in his opinions or willingness to protect CT's long history of bold trad climbing...

What about protecting the rights of the land owner?

This shit always drives me nuts, we aren't talking about Yosemite here, we're talking about private property.

Ken is just as much of an asshole as the bitchy old lady across the street who petitioned the homeowner's association to tell me what color I'm allowed to paint my front porch. It's my property and I'll do whatever the hell I want with it, thank you very much.

I will never understand this "old school" ethic that some smelly hippy climbing a rock 20 years ago is somehow more important than the desires of the guy who worked hard to earn money and purchase a piece of land.

Public property? National parks? Shit, local ethics rule. But private property? Cram your ethics up your ass - I still firmly believe in ownership of land and the right of that land owner to do whatever the hell he wants.

Stuff like this makes me want to buy land with a great old-school trad crag and dynamite it just to show these people that they aren't the gods of everything made from stone.

homeowners association? does that mean you live in a stratafied property?


Valarc


Jul 31, 2008, 10:39 PM
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Not sure what a stratafied property is.

But, in a nutshell, what it means is, when I bought my house I was a foolish country bumpkin who didn't understand the impact homeowner's associations can have on your daily life. My house is a townhome with a backyard, not a condo or anything, and I was under the impression it was the duty of the HOA to maintain the roads and sidewalks, and not much else.

Boy was I wrong. As I said, I grew up on a farm where we had a fair bit of freedom to do as we pleased on our own property. That freedom is pretty much the whole REASON to own property IMHO. I will live in a cardboard box before I buy a house with an HOA again.

But, let me backpedal a bit more on my original statement - people should be able to do whatever they want on their property, within some semblance of reason. Things that grossly affect people outside your property, like pollution or pesticides and the like, should obviously not be allowed.

But if I want to build a shed, I don't think I should need a permit, unless that shed is in danger of falling on someone else's land, and if I want to paint my house orange, I should be able to. In fact, I would LOVE it if one of my neighbors painted his house hot pink, just to piss off all the uppity assholes who are constantly sticking their noses in everyone's business.

And now that I've completely derailed this conversation and taken it completely off-topic I'm going to drop it. I'm a nobody in the climbing world, and I'll never change anyone's opinion on their old-school ethics or respect for sleazebags like ole' ken, so I'll shut up about it already. I've had my cathartic rant and now it's time to go weed my front garden before I get fined for an unkempt yard (I wish I was joking).


kriso9tails


Jul 31, 2008, 11:14 PM
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Valarc wrote:
<snip>
But if I want to build a shed, I don't think I should need a permit, unless that shed is in danger of falling on someone else's land, and if I want to paint my house orange, I should be able to. In fact, I would LOVE it if one of my neighbors painted his house hot pink, just to piss off all the uppity assholes who are constantly sticking their noses in everyone's business.

The argument usually comes down to betraying community standards and lowering the surrounding property values... but I agree that it's something people should consider on their own and not be forced to adhere to, within reason of course.

In reply to:
I've had my cathartic rant and now it's time to go weed my front garden before I get fined for an unkempt yard (I wish I was joking).

I let the lawn get a bit long one summer. Nothing too ridiculous, but three weeks without cutting it. I wasn't home much except for in the evening and I thought that my neighbors wouldn't appreciate the lawn mower running at 9:30 pm or later. Apparently I was wrong, but how did I find out? A knock on the door and a friendly chat? A polite letter from the neighbor in the mailbox? No. A letter from the city saying to cut it or they'd cut it for me (at a costly rate).

I actually like the grass three inches long and it bothers me that the neighbors got more say in the matter than I did.


sungam


Jul 31, 2008, 11:31 PM
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Valarc wrote:
fresh wrote:
I dunno, that doesn't seem right. ownership is a contract between people, not between people and things. rocks don't grow back, so what gives you the right to do to them what you want? your porch is different because it's man-made, no?

Because I own the land. I'm all for protecting objects of natural beauty, but then if that's the case, make them a park. If it belongs to an individual, I don't want anyone, whether it's the gub'ment, or some smug asshole who thinks his ethics define those of the entire world, screwing with it.

This country was built upon land ownership, human ownership, and the exploitation of other countries, their natural resources and of course the exploitation and killing of other people.. My great-grandaddy cut down trees, plowed fields, made a life for his family, and built the home I grew up in. He was able to do this because of land ownership. Take away the rights of a land owner and you take away one of the most cherished values of the American way of life.

If something should be protected, then it shouldn't be in the control of any one person - it should be a public resource. As long as it's not, it's a fundamental part of the way I was raised to respect the rights of property owners.

Either way, I have just as much right to destroy a crag to piss off old-schoolers, as Ken has to "destroy the rock to save it". He's a scumbag and a vandal, and I don't have to have met him to know that. Private property is private property, and he has no business fucking with stuff that BELONGS to other people.
fixxed it for you.
It's a proud history, with no mistakes, obviously.


patmay81


Aug 1, 2008, 12:17 AM
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If you want help bolting the great wall I will pitch in, that could be a fun climb if it here bolted... otherwise the R rating might scare weak n00bs like me away- that and 67 pitches of a bolt ladder is a lot less time consuming!


wonderwoman


Aug 1, 2008, 1:43 AM
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patmay81 wrote:
If you want help bolting the great wall I will pitch in, that could be a fun climb if it here bolted... otherwise the R rating might scare weak n00bs like me away- that and 67 pitches of a bolt ladder is a lot less time consuming!

I can see it now... 'Scuse me, pardon me, comin' through,' for every Gunks classic it traversed through the middle of!

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