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artm
Jul 31, 2008, 6:00 PM
Post #5376 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: I'd like to know why big bros are so damn expensive now. I swear they are at least twice the price they were back in the day. It might not be a stretch to say three times Maybe it's the cost of gas? They have been really expensive for a lot longer than gas has been way up. They went up quite a bit when Trango started selling them. It's a speciality item so they probably don't sell a lot of them and hiked the price to cover the cost of manufacturing them still. Link cams are where it is at. Aren't those the ones where one snapped at the linkage not long ago?
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stymingersfink
Jul 31, 2008, 6:01 PM
Post #5377 of 26795
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stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: "Never allow your cam to "walk" back into the crack or rotate once it is placed. Rope drag, poor rope management, or kicking the cam as you climb by it, to name just a few possible scenarios, can all cause a MaxCam to walk or rotate into a lopsided position (Fig 4), and fail." Eeeep! I still like them, though. Might have to go back to BD all the same. I don't think I'm going to buy any more BD cams. Max cams aren't really supposed to be a whole rack thing are they? I see then as a specialty piece. Yeah, or maybe a suppliment to a rack, or something. (similar to the link cam). Why no camalots? Have to big of cam angle, heavy, made in China That's why most of my rack is WC, and some Metolius for the cams. All my small cams are Metolius. I do have a bunch of WC but those are just doubles, thirds and fourths. Right now I still only have BD in the bigger stuff. I'll keep it, but I'm going to be very skeptical of it in the future. I would like to get a new rack of something else but I'm not sure what. I don't like the big Metolius cams. Maybe WC, they just have a bad problem of getting stuck. Maybe that has finally been fixed? Placed and slung right WC does not get stuck. Now, in the hands of Paul last year at the Back of the Lake, I just about lost my #3, #3.5, #4, and #2 WC friends... on one single climb. That boy R E A L L Y needs to stop over camming EVERYTHING. HE needs to stop yarding on his nuts too. This is true for any and every piece of gear though, isn't it? especially if that piece of gear is a PT.
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artm
Jul 31, 2008, 6:01 PM
Post #5378 of 26795
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Whoo!
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stymingersfink
Jul 31, 2008, 6:01 PM
Post #5379 of 26795
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stymingersfink wrote: stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: "Never allow your cam to "walk" back into the crack or rotate once it is placed. Rope drag, poor rope management, or kicking the cam as you climb by it, to name just a few possible scenarios, can all cause a MaxCam to walk or rotate into a lopsided position (Fig 4), and fail." Eeeep! I still like them, though. Might have to go back to BD all the same. I don't think I'm going to buy any more BD cams. Max cams aren't really supposed to be a whole rack thing are they? I see then as a specialty piece. Yeah, or maybe a suppliment to a rack, or something. (similar to the link cam). Why no camalots? Have to big of cam angle, heavy, made in China That's why most of my rack is WC, and some Metolius for the cams. All my small cams are Metolius. I do have a bunch of WC but those are just doubles, thirds and fourths. Right now I still only have BD in the bigger stuff. I'll keep it, but I'm going to be very skeptical of it in the future. I would like to get a new rack of something else but I'm not sure what. I don't like the big Metolius cams. Maybe WC, they just have a bad problem of getting stuck. Maybe that has finally been fixed? Placed and slung right WC does not get stuck. Now, in the hands of Paul last year at the Back of the Lake, I just about lost my #3, #3.5, #4, and #2 WC friends... on one single climb. That boy R E A L L Y needs to stop over camming EVERYTHING. HE needs to stop yarding on his nuts too. This is true for any and every piece of gear though, isn't it? especially if that piece of gear is a PT. FTW!
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artm
Jul 31, 2008, 6:02 PM
Post #5380 of 26795
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stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: stymingersfink wrote: Well, an update from the Dr.'s office: Went in this afternoon and spoke with a neurologist. The general gist of the thing is this: Sleep Deprivation. Now, far be it from me to have the greatest sleep schedule, in fact since that ill fated morning Oct. 1 2005 I honestly haven't slept all that well with any regularity, what with the inability to self-medicate with my drug of choice, the stress of the proceedings going on, and my then-recent return to the single life. In a nutshell, my little incident last week was brought on by a severe deficit of sleep (or so we've decided). Statistically, the chances of ever having something like what happened occur again are 50:50, though if it by some quirk it DOES happen again all bets will be off. I'll just have to take those chances. Of course, in the mean time I'll have to do what I can to stack the deck in my favor, try to get myself on some kind of regular sleep schedule and increase the quality of sleep that I DO get. Soo... i guess I'll be off the soloing for a bit till I'm satisfied that it was a one-time event. No driving with the cruise control, no heinous gear leads in my near future either. Hell, who'm I kidding? I haven't done heinous gear leads in quite some time. Here's hoping it was a one-time thing. Gotta start stackin' the deck in my favor for a bit, catch up on some much needed sleep quality/quantity. Hope that's enough to settle things. Well that's good news if it's just sleep issues. Hopefully that's it. After working on sleep, the kellin time for 400+ days (or wahtever it is) you can work on getting to the land of the best Ice in the world. 494. agreed. the thread on being turned away at the border has me motivated to get things squared away before that day arrives. Sleep deprivation, that's weird dude.
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artm
Jul 31, 2008, 6:04 PM
Post #5381 of 26795
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Registered: Jun 22, 2001
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stymingersfink wrote: stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: "Never allow your cam to "walk" back into the crack or rotate once it is placed. Rope drag, poor rope management, or kicking the cam as you climb by it, to name just a few possible scenarios, can all cause a MaxCam to walk or rotate into a lopsided position (Fig 4), and fail." Eeeep! I still like them, though. Might have to go back to BD all the same. I don't think I'm going to buy any more BD cams. Max cams aren't really supposed to be a whole rack thing are they? I see then as a specialty piece. Yeah, or maybe a suppliment to a rack, or something. (similar to the link cam). Why no camalots? Have to big of cam angle, heavy, made in China That's why most of my rack is WC, and some Metolius for the cams. All my small cams are Metolius. I do have a bunch of WC but those are just doubles, thirds and fourths. Right now I still only have BD in the bigger stuff. I'll keep it, but I'm going to be very skeptical of it in the future. I would like to get a new rack of something else but I'm not sure what. I don't like the big Metolius cams. Maybe WC, they just have a bad problem of getting stuck. Maybe that has finally been fixed? Placed and slung right WC does not get stuck. Now, in the hands of Paul last year at the Back of the Lake, I just about lost my #3, #3.5, #4, and #2 WC friends... on one single climb. That boy R E A L L Y needs to stop over camming EVERYTHING. HE needs to stop yarding on his nuts too. This is true for any and every piece of gear though, isn't it? especially if that piece of gear is a PT. PT FAIL
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stymingersfink
Jul 31, 2008, 6:09 PM
Post #5382 of 26795
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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artm wrote: stymingersfink wrote: stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: "Never allow your cam to "walk" back into the crack or rotate once it is placed. Rope drag, poor rope management, or kicking the cam as you climb by it, to name just a few possible scenarios, can all cause a MaxCam to walk or rotate into a lopsided position (Fig 4), and fail." Eeeep! I still like them, though. Might have to go back to BD all the same. I don't think I'm going to buy any more BD cams. Max cams aren't really supposed to be a whole rack thing are they? I see then as a specialty piece. Yeah, or maybe a suppliment to a rack, or something. (similar to the link cam). Why no camalots? Have to big of cam angle, heavy, made in China That's why most of my rack is WC, and some Metolius for the cams. All my small cams are Metolius. I do have a bunch of WC but those are just doubles, thirds and fourths. Right now I still only have BD in the bigger stuff. I'll keep it, but I'm going to be very skeptical of it in the future. I would like to get a new rack of something else but I'm not sure what. I don't like the big Metolius cams. Maybe WC, they just have a bad problem of getting stuck. Maybe that has finally been fixed? Placed and slung right WC does not get stuck. Now, in the hands of Paul last year at the Back of the Lake, I just about lost my #3, #3.5, #4, and #2 WC friends... on one single climb. That boy R E A L L Y needs to stop over camming EVERYTHING. HE needs to stop yarding on his nuts too. This is true for any and every piece of gear though, isn't it? especially if that piece of gear is a PT. PT FAIL Franciz FAIL! Damn!
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stymingersfink
Jul 31, 2008, 6:10 PM
Post #5383 of 26795
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artm wrote: stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: stymingersfink wrote: Well, an update from the Dr.'s office: Went in this afternoon and spoke with a neurologist. The general gist of the thing is this: Sleep Deprivation. Now, far be it from me to have the greatest sleep schedule, in fact since that ill fated morning Oct. 1 2005 I honestly haven't slept all that well with any regularity, what with the inability to self-medicate with my drug of choice, the stress of the proceedings going on, and my then-recent return to the single life. In a nutshell, my little incident last week was brought on by a severe deficit of sleep (or so we've decided). Statistically, the chances of ever having something like what happened occur again are 50:50, though if it by some quirk it DOES happen again all bets will be off. I'll just have to take those chances. Of course, in the mean time I'll have to do what I can to stack the deck in my favor, try to get myself on some kind of regular sleep schedule and increase the quality of sleep that I DO get. Soo... i guess I'll be off the soloing for a bit till I'm satisfied that it was a one-time event. No driving with the cruise control, no heinous gear leads in my near future either. Hell, who'm I kidding? I haven't done heinous gear leads in quite some time. Here's hoping it was a one-time thing. Gotta start stackin' the deck in my favor for a bit, catch up on some much needed sleep quality/quantity. Hope that's enough to settle things. Well that's good news if it's just sleep issues. Hopefully that's it. After working on sleep, the kellin time for 400+ days (or wahtever it is) you can work on getting to the land of the best Ice in the world. 494. agreed. the thread on being turned away at the border has me motivated to get things squared away before that day arrives. Sleep deprivation, that's weird dude. The way he explained it made perfect sense though, even with my ever-so-rudimentary understanding of the human brain.
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getout87
Jul 31, 2008, 6:12 PM
Post #5384 of 26795
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Registered: Dec 30, 2007
Posts: 597
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stymingersfink wrote: artm wrote: stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: stymingersfink wrote: Well, an update from the Dr.'s office: Went in this afternoon and spoke with a neurologist. The general gist of the thing is this: Sleep Deprivation. Now, far be it from me to have the greatest sleep schedule, in fact since that ill fated morning Oct. 1 2005 I honestly haven't slept all that well with any regularity, what with the inability to self-medicate with my drug of choice, the stress of the proceedings going on, and my then-recent return to the single life. In a nutshell, my little incident last week was brought on by a severe deficit of sleep (or so we've decided). Statistically, the chances of ever having something like what happened occur again are 50:50, though if it by some quirk it DOES happen again all bets will be off. I'll just have to take those chances. Of course, in the mean time I'll have to do what I can to stack the deck in my favor, try to get myself on some kind of regular sleep schedule and increase the quality of sleep that I DO get. Soo... i guess I'll be off the soloing for a bit till I'm satisfied that it was a one-time event. No driving with the cruise control, no heinous gear leads in my near future either. Hell, who'm I kidding? I haven't done heinous gear leads in quite some time. Here's hoping it was a one-time thing. Gotta start stackin' the deck in my favor for a bit, catch up on some much needed sleep quality/quantity. Hope that's enough to settle things. Well that's good news if it's just sleep issues. Hopefully that's it. After working on sleep, the kellin time for 400+ days (or wahtever it is) you can work on getting to the land of the best Ice in the world. 494. agreed. the thread on being turned away at the border has me motivated to get things squared away before that day arrives. Sleep deprivation, that's weird dude. The way he explained it made perfect sense though, even with my ever-so-rudimentary understanding of the human brain. thats crazy about the sleep deprivation sty. werent you up for like 24 hours or something yesterday? thats kinda ironic to see the doctor about it on that day.
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the_climber
Jul 31, 2008, 6:55 PM
Post #5385 of 26795
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: "Never allow your cam to "walk" back into the crack or rotate once it is placed. Rope drag, poor rope management, or kicking the cam as you climb by it, to name just a few possible scenarios, can all cause a MaxCam to walk or rotate into a lopsided position (Fig 4), and fail." Eeeep! I still like them, though. Might have to go back to BD all the same. I don't think I'm going to buy any more BD cams. Max cams aren't really supposed to be a whole rack thing are they? I see then as a specialty piece. Yeah, or maybe a suppliment to a rack, or something. (similar to the link cam). Why no camalots? Have to big of cam angle, heavy, made in China That's why most of my rack is WC, and some Metolius for the cams. All my small cams are Metolius. I do have a bunch of WC but those are just doubles, thirds and fourths. Right now I still only have BD in the bigger stuff. I'll keep it, but I'm going to be very skeptical of it in the future. I would like to get a new rack of something else but I'm not sure what. I don't like the big Metolius cams. Maybe WC, they just have a bad problem of getting stuck. Maybe that has finally been fixed? Placed and slung right WC does not get stuck. Now, in the hands of Paul last year at the Back of the Lake, I just about lost my #3, #3.5, #4, and #2 WC friends... on one single climb. That boy R E A L L Y needs to stop over camming EVERYTHING. HE needs to stop yarding on his nuts too. This is true for any and every piece of gear though, isn't it? This is koRekt. Some cams are more forgiving when overcammed, but the #1 leading cause of walking cams is poor slingage.
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the_climber
Jul 31, 2008, 8:00 PM
Post #5386 of 26795
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I hate my job. I came the the conclusion yesterday tht I have absolutely zero job satisfaction, if fact it's so non-existant that I may infact be into negative job satisfation.... It's just a shit problem that I really do need a paycheck. *Fingers crossed that the new jorb will come through soon*
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chossmonkey
Jul 31, 2008, 8:01 PM
Post #5387 of 26795
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: "Never allow your cam to "walk" back into the crack or rotate once it is placed. Rope drag, poor rope management, or kicking the cam as you climb by it, to name just a few possible scenarios, can all cause a MaxCam to walk or rotate into a lopsided position (Fig 4), and fail." Eeeep! I still like them, though. Might have to go back to BD all the same. I don't think I'm going to buy any more BD cams. Max cams aren't really supposed to be a whole rack thing are they? I see then as a specialty piece. Yeah, or maybe a suppliment to a rack, or something. (similar to the link cam). Why no camalots? Have to big of cam angle, heavy, made in China That's why most of my rack is WC, and some Metolius for the cams. All my small cams are Metolius. I do have a bunch of WC but those are just doubles, thirds and fourths. Right now I still only have BD in the bigger stuff. I'll keep it, but I'm going to be very skeptical of it in the future. I would like to get a new rack of something else but I'm not sure what. I don't like the big Metolius cams. Maybe WC, they just have a bad problem of getting stuck. Maybe that has finally been fixed? Placed and slung right WC does not get stuck. Now, in the hands of Paul last year at the Back of the Lake, I just about lost my #3, #3.5, #4, and #2 WC friends... on one single climb. That boy R E A L L Y needs to stop over camming EVERYTHING. HE needs to stop yarding on his nuts too. So it hasn't been fixed?
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the_climber
Jul 31, 2008, 8:02 PM
Post #5388 of 26795
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Somebody please burn my office down so I can go home early.
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the_climber
Jul 31, 2008, 8:06 PM
Post #5389 of 26795
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chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: "Never allow your cam to "walk" back into the crack or rotate once it is placed. Rope drag, poor rope management, or kicking the cam as you climb by it, to name just a few possible scenarios, can all cause a MaxCam to walk or rotate into a lopsided position (Fig 4), and fail." Eeeep! I still like them, though. Might have to go back to BD all the same. I don't think I'm going to buy any more BD cams. Max cams aren't really supposed to be a whole rack thing are they? I see then as a specialty piece. Yeah, or maybe a suppliment to a rack, or something. (similar to the link cam). Why no camalots? Have to big of cam angle, heavy, made in China That's why most of my rack is WC, and some Metolius for the cams. All my small cams are Metolius. I do have a bunch of WC but those are just doubles, thirds and fourths. Right now I still only have BD in the bigger stuff. I'll keep it, but I'm going to be very skeptical of it in the future. I would like to get a new rack of something else but I'm not sure what. I don't like the big Metolius cams. Maybe WC, they just have a bad problem of getting stuck. Maybe that has finally been fixed? Placed and slung right WC does not get stuck. Now, in the hands of Paul last year at the Back of the Lake, I just about lost my #3, #3.5, #4, and #2 WC friends... on one single climb. That boy R E A L L Y needs to stop over camming EVERYTHING. HE needs to stop yarding on his nuts too. So it hasn't been fixed? I had Paul's overcamming ways fixed last fall... then after the winter they were back. Right now they appear to still be there. Except he did have to replace one of his C3's after to people had to clean it when over cammed. We'll teach him yet. I've never had to leave a com fixed thankfully
(This post was edited by the_climber on Jul 31, 2008, 8:07 PM)
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chossmonkey
Jul 31, 2008, 8:58 PM
Post #5391 of 26795
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U R so helpful.
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getout87
Jul 31, 2008, 9:01 PM
Post #5392 of 26795
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the_climber wrote: I hate my job. I came the the conclusion yesterday tht I have absolutely zero job satisfaction, if fact it's so non-existant that I may infact be into negative job satisfation.... It's just a shit problem that I really do need a paycheck. *Fingers crossed that the new jorb will come through soon* that sucks big ones t_c. i hope the new jorb works out for you, with mad syliez!
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dr_feelgood
Jul 31, 2008, 9:27 PM
Post #5393 of 26795
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chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: I'd like to know why big bros are so damn expensive now. I swear they are at least twice the price they were back in the day. It might not be a stretch to say three times Maybe it's the cost of gas? They have been really expensive for a lot longer than gas has been way up. They went up quite a bit when Trango started selling them. It's a speciality item so they probably don't sell a lot of them and hiked the price to cover the cost of manufacturing them still. Link cams are where it is at. For offwidth? I believe I responded to the wrong post. My intentions were to respond to the post about max cams, however that has failed.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 31, 2008, 9:28 PM
Post #5394 of 26795
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chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: I'm beat. Went climbing from 9 am till 7 pm today. It was hot too. It must have been a while for you. Climbing hasn't got me all hot for quite some time. Two weeks had gone and past since I did anything more than play with myself on my hangboard.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 31, 2008, 9:32 PM
Post #5395 of 26795
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artm wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: I'd like to know why big bros are so damn expensive now. I swear they are at least twice the price they were back in the day. It might not be a stretch to say three times Maybe it's the cost of gas? They have been really expensive for a lot longer than gas has been way up. They went up quite a bit when Trango started selling them. It's a speciality item so they probably don't sell a lot of them and hiked the price to cover the cost of manufacturing them still. Link cams are where it is at. Aren't those the ones where one snapped at the linkage not long ago? Yup. they sent out a self test thingy, and mine past. They've both been fallen on as well, so I tend to trust them.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 31, 2008, 9:32 PM
Post #5396 of 26795
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stymingersfink wrote: artm wrote: stymingersfink wrote: stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: "Never allow your cam to "walk" back into the crack or rotate once it is placed. Rope drag, poor rope management, or kicking the cam as you climb by it, to name just a few possible scenarios, can all cause a MaxCam to walk or rotate into a lopsided position (Fig 4), and fail." Eeeep! I still like them, though. Might have to go back to BD all the same. I don't think I'm going to buy any more BD cams. Max cams aren't really supposed to be a whole rack thing are they? I see then as a specialty piece. Yeah, or maybe a suppliment to a rack, or something. (similar to the link cam). Why no camalots? Have to big of cam angle, heavy, made in China That's why most of my rack is WC, and some Metolius for the cams. All my small cams are Metolius. I do have a bunch of WC but those are just doubles, thirds and fourths. Right now I still only have BD in the bigger stuff. I'll keep it, but I'm going to be very skeptical of it in the future. I would like to get a new rack of something else but I'm not sure what. I don't like the big Metolius cams. Maybe WC, they just have a bad problem of getting stuck. Maybe that has finally been fixed? Placed and slung right WC does not get stuck. Now, in the hands of Paul last year at the Back of the Lake, I just about lost my #3, #3.5, #4, and #2 WC friends... on one single climb. That boy R E A L L Y needs to stop over camming EVERYTHING. HE needs to stop yarding on his nuts too. This is true for any and every piece of gear though, isn't it? especially if that piece of gear is a PT. PT FAIL Franciz FAIL! Damn! HAHA!
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the_climber
Jul 31, 2008, 9:33 PM
Post #5397 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: I'm beat. Went climbing from 9 am till 7 pm today. It was hot too. It must have been a while for you. Climbing hasn't got me all hot for quite some time. Two weeks had gone and past since I did anything more than play with myself and my hotdog.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 31, 2008, 9:36 PM
Post #5398 of 26795
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the_climber wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: I'm beat. Went climbing from 9 am till 7 pm today. It was hot too. It must have been a while for you. Climbing hasn't got me all hot for quite some time. Two weeks had gone and past since I did anything more than play with myself and my hotdog. The edits are funnier when I do not notice them immediately.
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wanderlustmd
Jul 31, 2008, 11:02 PM
Post #5399 of 26795
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Posts: 8150
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chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: epoch wrote: chossmonkey wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: What is this rubber holder you speak of? Clarify, please. [image]http://lh4.ggpht.com/WanderlustMD/SIz1rgtR7cI/AAAAAAAAAuU/svi6OgPVUC0/020.JPG?imgmax=512[/image] If you need more clarification look at the first bolt and the biner attached to it. [img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2400/2209923974_9758cafa42_o.gif[/img] ...if he were to fall on that the rubber would break and the whole thing would fall apart!!! Everybody panic!!! QDs aren't as strong placed that way!!! For f u c K i n g real? Um.. They unclip from the bolt quite easily like that. FWIW, that's not me leading. I don't have QDs, only adjustable trad draws. What makes it so easy to unclip? Because instead of the QD moving around on the biner the biner ends up moving around on the bolt more. The shorter and stiffer the draw the more dangerous it is. IC. Good to know, thanks. Raining here now, and the forecase for the next three days is equally schitty. Fack. Win some, lose some. Send beer money, please. Ah yeah, the PAC NW. It rains there a lot. You needed a rest day anyway didn't you? Are you going to climb with voytek? Yeah, I do. The shoulder is acting up. I think I need to start doing a 3 days on one day off thing, depending on the amount of climbing for each day. The rain is/was a blessing in disguise, although I managed to sneak a route or two these past few days. Voytek and I have PM'd a few times. He's only free on weekends. I'm not climbing again till Monday, though; the shoulder needs a rest. Hopefully we can hook up.
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wanderlustmd
Jul 31, 2008, 11:03 PM
Post #5400 of 26795
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 8150
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artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: epoch wrote: chossmonkey wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: What is this rubber holder you speak of? Clarify, please. [image]http://lh4.ggpht.com/WanderlustMD/SIz1rgtR7cI/AAAAAAAAAuU/svi6OgPVUC0/020.JPG?imgmax=512[/image] If you need more clarification look at the first bolt and the biner attached to it. [img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2400/2209923974_9758cafa42_o.gif[/img] ...if he were to fall on that the rubber would break and the whole thing would fall apart!!! Everybody panic!!! QDs aren't as strong placed that way!!! For f u c K i n g real? Um.. They unclip from the bolt quite easily like that. FWIW, that's not me leading. I don't have QDs, only adjustable trad draws. What makes it so easy to unclip? Because instead of the QD moving around on the biner the biner ends up moving around on the bolt more. The shorter and stiffer the draw the more dangerous it is. IC. Good to know, thanks. Raining here now, and the forecase for the next three days is equally schitty. Fack. Win some, lose some. Send beer money, please. if you hadn't spent so much money on gas you'd have beer money! I bet he is less inclined to drive all over now that gas is well over $5 a gallon where he is. Well he's a donny, they have to learn the hard way. Oh hush... I'm going to visit Bishop if the valley burns down, you can buy me beer.
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