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DHoff
Aug 3, 2008, 6:17 PM
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I am currently in a job where i am away every other week. I climb outside about 4 times the week that i am home but i am stuck around the 5.10 range...and my climbing endurance is the issue. i have read so many of the same things....climb more, traverse, climb more, lap routes. I guess what i would like to know is if there anyone out there in my situation who can give me a few pointers...hopefully from personal experience...on what they did to help their every other week climbing? Is there hope for my climbing....or am i a 5.10er for life??
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krosbakken
Aug 3, 2008, 7:12 PM
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4 times a weed outdoors everyother week? thats a hell of alot more than most people climb. I wouldn't say your going to be stuck at 5.10, I don't know what your problem is but hang in there.
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notapplicable
Aug 3, 2008, 7:23 PM
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DHoff wrote: I am currently in a job where i am away every other week. I climb outside about 4 times the week that i am home but i am stuck around the 5.10 range...and my climbing endurance is the issue. i have read so many of the same things....climb more, traverse, climb more, lap routes. I guess what i would like to know is if there anyone out there in my situation who can give me a few pointers...hopefully from personal experience...on what they did to help their every other week climbing? Is there hope for my climbing....or am i a 5.10er for life??
How long have you been climbing?
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angry
Aug 3, 2008, 7:27 PM
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Are you kidding me, D. Hoff can do any goddamn thing he wants.
Remember the lessons you learned on your sexy beach, talking car, or inexplicably successful German music career and show start cranking.
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carbonrx8
Aug 3, 2008, 8:37 PM
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angry wrote: Are you kidding me, D. Hoff can do any goddamn thing he wants. Remember the lessons you learned on your sexy beach, talking car, or inexplicably successful German music career and show start cranking.
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sungam
Aug 3, 2008, 10:30 PM
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angry wrote: Are you kidding me, D. Hoff can do any goddamn thing he wants. Remember the lessons you learned on your sexy beach, talking car, or inexplicably successful German music career and show start cranking.
(to the OP... train!!!! get a hangboard for while you're at work, a 1.5/2 hours workout on that puppy will put you to sleep!)
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cacalderon
Aug 4, 2008, 12:28 AM
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Sounds like you are committed....... look for climbing gyms when you travel and take your gear with you everywhere... hang in there and keep practicing…
PS. traversing and lap routes should help you with endurance
(This post was edited by cacalderon on Aug 4, 2008, 12:31 AM)
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sungam
Aug 4, 2008, 12:52 AM
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TooCrucialFlails wrote: you should try harder
Being a douche-fag like this in your very first post, combined with your SICK track record you made sure to get on your profile will be sure to make you a hero amongst men, and a heart throb amongst the ladies, too!
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Myxomatosis
Aug 4, 2008, 6:33 AM
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Target your weakness and train hard in the days you have.
Just because you are climbing outdoors doesn't mean you can't train there...
You could probably work a bit on your technique as well, mainly using less strength going up the climb, keeping you arms straight as much as possible and resting on good holds alot more.
Work your routes so much that you learn them so well you can feel every move from your living room.
(This post was edited by Myxomatosis on Aug 4, 2008, 6:34 AM)
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meahtots
Aug 4, 2008, 7:00 AM
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Remember you don't necessarily have to climb to train. Push-ups, pullups, or crunches don't require rock but will help plenty
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DHoff
Aug 5, 2008, 5:04 PM
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I have been climbing for about 6 months now...about 4 of those outside...i know it's not that long but i was steadily improving every session untill i reached the 5.10 range. I know it's not about the grade, and i know 5.10 is pretty average for a weekend warrior but im not satisfied with that...thanks again for all the posts
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jt512
Aug 5, 2008, 5:12 PM
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meahtots wrote: Remember you don't necessarily have to climb to train. Push-ups, pullups, or crunches don't require rock but will help plenty
How much have they helped you? One look at your profile suggests not much.
Jay
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DHoff
Aug 5, 2008, 5:23 PM
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Unfortunately when i travel i am on a boat so i don't have access to a climbing gym like someone suggested and i can't really install a hangboard on the boat...all ideas that i wish i could do...Again thanks everyone for your posts im sure more time climbing will solve the issue. I hope. And i appreciate you throwing THE HOFF in there...
LONG LIFE THE HOFF
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mounter
Aug 5, 2008, 5:33 PM
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jt512 wrote: meahtots wrote: Remember you don't necessarily have to climb to train. Push-ups, pullups, or crunches don't require rock but will help plenty How much have they helped you? One look at your profile suggests not much. Jay
It's a no brainer that being fit in general terms will only help your climbing abilities ...but what the hell do I know?
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debaser655321
Aug 5, 2008, 5:34 PM
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Start climbing 5.11 routes, even if you still have trouble with some 5.10s. Eventually you will finish one without a hang or fall. Before you know it you'll have a few 5.11's under your belt and ready to start falling off 5.12s.
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cracklover
Aug 5, 2008, 5:36 PM
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DHoff wrote: I have been climbing for about 6 months now...about 4 of those outside...i know it's not that long but i was steadily improving every session untill i reached the 5.10 range. I know it's not about the grade, and i know 5.10 is pretty average for a weekend warrior but im not satisfied with that...thanks again for all the posts
Everyone reaches a series of plateaus. 5.10 is a pretty common one. And to hit it after 6 months of dedicated climbing seems about right.
I started climbing in the gym. After a year, I had done quite a few 5.10s in the gym. A year later, I was *still* getting spit off of many 10s. I've led plenty of harder stuff in the interim, but now, ten years down the line, I just led my first hard 10 onsight at the Gunks.
So you better be prepared for the long haul, and some plateaus don't break all together, they go verrrrry slowly. 5.10 can be a bitch of a grade, and if repeated failure is too much for you to bear, you might want to consider another sport.
GO
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chossmonkey
Aug 5, 2008, 6:02 PM
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DHoff wrote: I have been climbing for about 6 months now...about 4 of those outside...i know it's not that long but i was steadily improving every session untill i reached the 5.10 range.
It sounds like you need to work on improving your technique.
As far as fitness goes, I have been finding it hard to climb more than two day a week lately since I have been climbing a lot and climbing hard (for me) on those two days. It has been taking me most of the rest of the week to recover. Since you are new to climbing a week off regularly might even help prevent overuse injuries from getting to strong to fast.
If you have to do any sort of manual labor while you are at work you should be set. While not climbing specific it will help you stay in overall better shape.
If you do only climb every other week you need to be dedicated and make sure to get in as much climbing when you can. Otherwise "every other week" quickly turns into every third week.
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patmay81
Aug 5, 2008, 6:08 PM
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Ive been climbing for 6 or 7 years now, most of that I was content to climb 5.10. Lately I've been projecting some harder stuff, but as a weekend warrior myself its difficult to be in the right shape to pull a lot of the moves. I figure if I can have a lot of fun climbing a great 5.10/11, or struggle up a 12b getting pissed off cuz I can't do it, I'll stick with the 10's and 11's.
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DHoff
Aug 5, 2008, 6:13 PM
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I understand that there are obviously harder 5.10's than others but to me it just feels like the jump between a 5.10 and a 5.11 is a 5x harder than the jump between other grades...
And for the record...i will never give up... i will continue failing untill i succede
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granite_grrl
Aug 5, 2008, 6:36 PM
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I agree with what chossmonkey says, as long as you're making the most of your climbing sessions you're climbing plenty.
What it took to break out of my 5.10 plateau was to compleatly change my style of climbing. I spent years trad climbing, and was leading at a respectable level in trad, but still stuck at 5.10+ sport. Then I broke my leg and vertical to slabby stuff was suddenly hard to impossible for me. I had to hop on the steep stuff and started spending my weekends clipping bolts instead.
This is just a dramatic example of "work on stuff you're bad at". If you want dramatic changes you need to make dramatic changes.
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meahtots
Aug 5, 2008, 6:47 PM
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jt512 wrote: meahtots wrote: Remember you don't necessarily have to climb to train. Push-ups, pullups, or crunches don't require rock but will help plenty How much have they helped you? One look at your profile suggests not much. Jay
I'm just saying, is all.
And who cares if my profile doesn't suggest that I'm not pro? They've helped me out in the year or so that I've been climbing.
There's no need to be an ass.
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mtlclimber
Aug 5, 2008, 8:03 PM
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Do you have a climbing gym in your area? I was stuck at 5.10 at one point and I felt as if I would never accomplish a 5.11. Somebody at the gym gave me some good advice: its not the how hard you climb but how many you can climb. In other words, don't focus too much on that impossible 5.11 but focus on the hard 5.10. When you feel that you're solid on these climbs then move on and try out the 5.11. SO the more 5.10 you can do the closer you will be at sending that 5.11. Of course this strategy only works if you have access to a gym.
My other suggestion is to read a book like "How To Climb 5.12". I've read this book and I think it has some good advice.
Good luck on the path to your first 5.11 send!
climbingholdreview.com
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Carolyn11
Aug 5, 2008, 8:10 PM
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nice homophobia.
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jt512
Aug 6, 2008, 3:52 AM
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mounter wrote: jt512 wrote: meahtots wrote: Remember you don't necessarily have to climb to train. Push-ups, pullups, or crunches don't require rock but will help plenty How much have they helped you? One look at your profile suggests not much. Jay It's a no brainer that being fit in general terms will only help your climbing abilities ...but what the hell do I know?
Usually, when someone states that something is a "no brainer," what they really mean is that they have a belief that they can't back up with evidence.
Jay
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