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unrest


Oct 16, 2009, 4:19 AM
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Best Waterproof Shell?
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Out with it folks? I want to know what you you think the very best waterproof shell is for the money. I recently picked up a Marmott DriClime at REI for $30 (yeah no kidding brand new and $30). It's a bit tight on the shoulders. I nabbed a medium. All the rest of the jacket is awesome and I only mention this for a size comparison.

So I want a bomber waterproof shell only. I don't need insulation at all in fact I don't want it at all. Well here:

- No insulation.
- Rugged (use mixed climbing) and of course sledding and not that sissy tube crap. I mean the real deal, metal rail full throttle sledding. :)
- Must be waterproof. I mean proof.
- Breathable a definite bonus.
- Needs to have some pockets for stowing stuff.

Price isn't really an option but I'd like the best value for the money spent. Right now I'd like to aim for $200 to $300 but would spend more.

I can pair it up with a primaloft top, merino wool t-shirt and long sleeve shirt and that's enough to handle most of my outings.

I'm hell bent on staying dry though and when I say dry I mean from outside in but I'd really love to not have 100% humidity under the zipper either.


northfacejmb


Oct 16, 2009, 5:22 AM
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Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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I have had the OR Mentor for a couple years and I'm very happy with it. It takes a beating and comes out looking like new. Plus its nice to know that with OR's infinite guarantee if it ever does get torn up I can send it in and have it repaired or replaced for free. Idk how you can beat that..


rhythm164


Oct 16, 2009, 5:50 AM
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Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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I have a Patagonia Jetstream that's great. I use it for work in the field in addition to all it's expected uses and it takes a real beating and keeps me dry. Quality is great, super durable and pretty light as well.


sungam


Oct 16, 2009, 8:39 AM
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Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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The new pro shell material from goretex is worth looking into.
I picked up a marmot exum for like 180 bucks earlier this year. Used it in the bugs (no serious storms), in Squamish (we got pissed on) and Leavenworth (again, pissed on) Never a drop came through, and I was definitely impressed by how much more breathable it was then my old goretex jacket. Event is meant to be really good, too.


trapdoor


Oct 16, 2009, 8:59 AM
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Re: [sungam] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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If you want the most breathable stuff only Event will do.


sungam


Oct 16, 2009, 9:17 AM
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Re: [trapdoor] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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trapdoor wrote:
If you want the most breathable stuff only Event will do.
Unless you're planning on getting dirty, though that's likely not an issues winter climbing.


nikmit


Oct 16, 2009, 1:07 PM
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Re: [rhythm164] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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rhythm164 wrote:
I have a Patagonia Jetstream that's great. I use it for work in the field in addition to all it's expected uses and it takes a real beating and keeps me dry. Quality is great, super durable and pretty light as well.
Jetstream +1
Only problem with the jacket is that is SUPER thin. I've managed to rip mine during fall with the spike of the ice axe.


james481


Oct 16, 2009, 9:50 PM
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Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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Of course, like anything, the "best" is a pretty subjective thing, but I would say the "best" technical shell should:

1) Be made of eVent
2) Have heavy enough face and backing fabrics for withstanding abuse
3) Be constructed with extreme attention to detail and care (the best waterproof membrane doesn't help if the seams leak)
4) Be designed for easy use with a backpack and harness

So, to my knowledge, this pretty much leaves you with the choice between Rab and Montane (and possibly REI, though I haven't really examined their eVent shells closely). Rab and Montane are both companies based in the UK, so their stuff can be difficult to track down here in the states (Neptune Mountaineering here in Boulder carries Rab, and Montane can be ordered from several dealers in the UK). Personally, I chose the Montane Super Fly XT, and have been quite happy with it.


(This post was edited by james481 on Oct 16, 2009, 9:50 PM)


dynosore


Oct 17, 2009, 12:12 AM
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Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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Helly Hansen. I've had over a dozen breathable rain shells and they make the best, period. I do an annual hiking, climbing, and halibut fishing pilgrimage to Alaska every summer, so I put my gear to the test. Better than Arcteryx, Patagonia, etc. They nail all the small details, and their fabric is as breathable as e-vent.


carabiner96


Oct 17, 2009, 12:25 AM
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Re: [james481] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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Westcomb uses Event and I know Climb High distributes them.


hafilax


Oct 17, 2009, 12:37 AM
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Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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unrest wrote:
Out with it folks? I want to know what you you think the very best waterproof shell is for the money. I recently picked up a Marmott DriClime at REI for $30 (yeah no kidding brand new and $30). It's a bit tight on the shoulders. I nabbed a medium. All the rest of the jacket is awesome and I only mention this for a size comparison.

So I want a bomber waterproof shell only. I don't need insulation at all in fact I don't want it at all. Well here:

- No insulation.
- Rugged (use mixed climbing) and of course sledding and not that sissy tube crap. I mean the real deal, metal rail full throttle sledding. :)
- Must be waterproof. I mean proof.
- Breathable a definite bonus.
- Needs to have some pockets for stowing stuff.

Price isn't really an option but I'd like the best value for the money spent. Right now I'd like to aim for $200 to $300 but would spend more.

I can pair it up with a primaloft top, merino wool t-shirt and long sleeve shirt and that's enough to handle most of my outings.

I'm hell bent on staying dry though and when I say dry I mean from outside in but I'd really love to not have 100% humidity under the zipper either.
Do you not sweat? I think you're undervaluing breatheability. The Arc'teryx SV stuff is pretty rugged and well designed for climbing.

I'd be inclined to get a softshell and a hardshell but I'm a softshell fanatic because I'm a sweaty beast.


unrest


Oct 17, 2009, 2:44 AM
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Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
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Oh geez I sweat in gallons so yeah breathability is a big issue. I thought I mentioned that in a reply somewhere...

What do people think of the Mountain Hardware Exposure II? It was next to the eVent stuff. The salesperson said it was comparable. The particular eVent piece I was looking at was insulated and bulky. I didn't want that. The Mountain Hardware had *EVERYTHING* I was after. Reinforced elbows, breathable, nice all around or so it seemed seamed.Wink


carabiner96


Oct 17, 2009, 3:12 AM
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Re: [unrest] Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
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unrest wrote:
Oh geez I sweat in gallons so yeah breathability is a big issue. I thought I mentioned that in a reply somewhere...

What do people think of the Mountain Hardware Exposure II? It was next to the eVent stuff. The salesperson said it was comparable. The particular eVent piece I was looking at was insulated and bulky. I didn't want that. The Mountain Hardware had *EVERYTHING* I was after. Reinforced elbows, breathable, nice all around or so it seemed seamed.Wink

so get it! but doesn't the exposure have the hanging mesh layer? i find that hardshells that are just a single layer hold up best (theres 2 v. 3 layer, I forget which is which)


unrest


Oct 17, 2009, 3:17 AM
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Re: [carabiner96] Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
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Yes. Hanging mesh layer. What's the bad side with that?


carabiner96


Oct 17, 2009, 3:18 AM
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Re: [unrest] Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
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unrest wrote:
Yes. Hanging mesh layer. What's the bad side with that?

I've had then/had customers complain about them ripping...well before the shell has seen its life. Can also get beat up in the wash. They do feel nice against the skin though.

I think we carry the exposure, it's nice...but i think you could do better.


unrest


Oct 17, 2009, 3:20 AM
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Re: [carabiner96] Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
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Totally open to your idea of better and where do you think the Exposure II fits in the echelon? Is it an 8 out of 10, a 9?


carabiner96


Oct 17, 2009, 3:29 AM
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Re: [unrest] Mountain Hardware Exposure II $200??? [In reply to]
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It is a good jacket, but it is a little archaic. I don't think it's changed in 15 years. A jacket without a liner will pack smaller, last longer...the material of the exposure is nice and durable, but it's also heavy.

Mt Hardwear has a very unique fit, so if you like the exposure I might check out their 2.5 gtx jacket or the Berylium, i believe it is. I have the 2.5 for three years now, and other than a poor fit for me its held up beautifully to ski, ice, and the colder three seasons as a rain coat. Definitely a little warm for summer, though. Pit zips are, to me, a must.


tomtom


Oct 17, 2009, 3:39 AM
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Re: [james481] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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james481 wrote:
Of course, like anything, the "best" is a pretty subjective thing, but I would say the "best" technical shell should:

1) Be made of eVent
2) Have heavy enough face and backing fabrics for withstanding abuse
3) Be constructed with extreme attention to detail and care (the best waterproof membrane doesn't help if the seams leak)
4) Be designed for easy use with a backpack and harness

Rab Latok Alpine jacket

http://www.campsaver.com/...001&MatrixType=1




clc


Oct 17, 2009, 4:35 AM
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Re: [tomtom] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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get a jacket that people wear to work out doors everyday. Resource workers don't wear gor-tex or simular shit. There wear helly hanson, or Zepheron jacket Not cool looking but a jacket will last 10 years. ($60)


unrest


Oct 17, 2009, 5:41 AM
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Re: [clc] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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The passion killer for me:

Google: Helly Hansen Rain Jacket
Result: REI
Page: "Men's Waterproof Jackets and Pants" -> "Non-Breathable Rainware"

I'm normally a person that freezes their butt off. Cold all the farking time. Until I lift a finger. Once I start doing something sweat just pours. Even if it's 30 out, even if it's 0 out. I have to have something that let's sweat out. Major must!

Otherwise I was ready to click "Add to Cart" and pocket $140 in left-over cash.


hafilax


Oct 17, 2009, 6:00 AM
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Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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In your OP you declared water proof, PROOF. Water proof=not breatheable

eVent sounds like the right option for you. What about the Wild Things Alpinist jacket?


unrest


Oct 17, 2009, 6:02 AM
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Re: [hafilax] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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hafilax wrote:
In your OP you declared water proof, PROOF. Water proof=not breatheable

eVent sounds like the right option for you. What about the Wild Things Alpinist jacket?

My forth - mark which has always been there says "breathable" now I kind of thunk that means I want something breathable. I've been known to be wrong though.Sly


hafilax


Oct 17, 2009, 6:15 AM
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Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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You can't have water proof and breatheable. You stressed water proof many times called it a must and put it in the title. Breatheable was a 'bonus'.

Anyway, you can't have both and have to compromise on how breatheable you want and how waterproof you want. Softshell breathes well and rubber is water proof, now what do you really want?


asiaclimber


Oct 17, 2009, 10:01 AM
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Re: [unrest] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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check out Backcountry.com stuff. they make a line of really good soft shells that are next to water proof and some event shells that are next to bullet proof.


sungam


Oct 17, 2009, 11:26 AM
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Re: [dynosore] Best Waterproof Shell? [In reply to]
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dynosore wrote:
Helly Hansen. I've had over a dozen breathable rain shells and they make the best, period. I do an annual hiking, climbing, and halibut fishing pilgrimage to Alaska every summer, so I put my gear to the test. Better than Arcteryx, Patagonia, etc. They nail all the small details, and their fabric is as breathable as e-vent.
Helly Hanson = fashion, in my opinion. But what companies don't these days?

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