|
getsomeethics
Nov 3, 2009, 6:18 AM
Post #1 of 54
(13329 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2002
Posts: 313
|
Australian James Kassay has repeated Sleepy Rave, V15 in the Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians, Australia,
|
|
|
|
|
paclimber12
Nov 3, 2009, 11:14 PM
Post #2 of 54
(13216 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2005
Posts: 123
|
coverage?
|
|
|
|
|
getsomeethics
Nov 3, 2009, 11:22 PM
Post #3 of 54
(13207 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2002
Posts: 313
|
Video will be posted soon.
|
|
|
|
|
yokese
Nov 3, 2009, 11:25 PM
Post #4 of 54
(13197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 18, 2006
Posts: 672
|
8a.nu
|
|
|
|
|
milesenoell
Nov 4, 2009, 5:05 PM
Post #6 of 54
(13025 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156
|
Crazy
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Nov 4, 2009, 5:32 PM
Post #7 of 54
(12993 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
In my opinion, it is not a true v15 until Sharma does it. God I love Chris Sharma.
|
|
|
|
|
trenchdigger
Nov 4, 2009, 5:34 PM
Post #8 of 54
(12993 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447
|
Holy pumpy hell! That's no boulder problem, it's a free-solo of a horizontal multi-pitch route.
|
|
|
|
|
cfnubbler
Nov 4, 2009, 5:38 PM
Post #9 of 54
(12988 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
|
In general, I could care less about bouldering, but I'm pretty certain that guy shook out on several holds I couldn't even hang on to. Way impressive.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Nov 4, 2009, 5:46 PM
Post #11 of 54
(12974 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
i_h8_choss wrote: johnwesely wrote: In my opinion, God I love Chris Sharma.In my opinion, God I really hate your posts.
Why? climbing would be really lame if it weren't for Chris Sharma.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Nov 4, 2009, 5:50 PM
Post #12 of 54
(12968 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
On a serious note, that boulder problem appeared to be longer than most sport routes. Why not give it a route rating?
|
|
|
|
|
kylekienitz
Nov 4, 2009, 6:56 PM
Post #13 of 54
(12912 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 256
|
Awesome. I really liked that guy's style.
|
|
|
|
|
brokesomeribs
Nov 4, 2009, 8:26 PM
Post #14 of 54
(12844 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 20, 2009
Posts: 361
|
Wow.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Nov 4, 2009, 8:37 PM
Post #15 of 54
(12830 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
johnwesely wrote: On a serious note, that boulder problem appeared to be longer than most sport routes. Why not give it a route rating?
Route = climbed with gear + rope
Boulder = you boulder it.
Knwameen?
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Nov 4, 2009, 9:14 PM
Post #16 of 54
(12787 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: On a serious note, that boulder problem appeared to be longer than most sport routes. Why not give it a route rating? Because it was a boulder problem. Bouldering and routes have somehow changed their definition online. It's turned into "if it's longer and pumpy it's a route, if it's really short it's a boulder problem" - e.g. Wheel of life + sleepy rave are routes and Akira is a boulder problem. Route = climbed with gear + rope Boulder = you boulder it. Knwameen?
I didn't say it was not a boulder problem my dearest friend, but in my humblest opinion, boulder grades and route grades describe different things. To me it seems a really long boulder problem like that could be more accurately described by a route grade. I realize I am opening a can of worms here because by that logic slabs should be graded on a different scale than overhangs. Maybe they should, but that would probably make life very confusing.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Nov 4, 2009, 9:16 PM
Post #17 of 54
(12782 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: On a serious note, that boulder problem appeared to be longer than most sport routes. Why not give it a route rating? Because it was a boulder problem. Bouldering and routes have somehow changed their definition online. It's turned into "if it's longer and pumpy it's a route, if it's really short it's a boulder problem" - e.g. Wheel of life + sleepy rave are routes and Akira is a boulder problem. Route = climbed with gear + rope Boulder = you boulder it. Knwameen? I didn't say it was not a boulder problem my dearest friend, but in my humblest opinion, boulder grades and route grades describe different things. To me it seems a really long boulder problem like that could be more accurately described by a route grade. I realize I am opening a can of worms here because by that logic slabs should be graded on a different scale than overhangs. Maybe they should, but that would probably make life very confusing.
linky (worth watching!  )
|
|
|
|
|
airscape
Nov 4, 2009, 9:21 PM
Post #18 of 54
(12774 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 26, 2001
Posts: 4240
|
Awesome stuff
I dig the music.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Nov 4, 2009, 9:22 PM
Post #19 of 54
(12772 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: On a serious note, that boulder problem appeared to be longer than most sport routes. Why not give it a route rating? Because it was a boulder problem. Bouldering and routes have somehow changed their definition online. It's turned into "if it's longer and pumpy it's a route, if it's really short it's a boulder problem" - e.g. Wheel of life + sleepy rave are routes and Akira is a boulder problem. Route = climbed with gear + rope Boulder = you boulder it. Knwameen? I didn't say it was not a boulder problem my dearest friend, but in my humblest opinion, boulder grades and route grades describe different things. To me it seems a really long boulder problem like that could be more accurately described by a route grade. I realize I am opening a can of worms here because by that logic slabs should be graded on a different scale than overhangs. Maybe they should, but that would probably make life very confusing. YORE RONG! YORE RONG AND YOU DESERVE TO DIE! linky (worth watching! )
At least I will die like a real man. I may die by falling a few feet onto a foam pad, but at least I will have died for a route grade. At least I will have died for accuracy.
|
|
|
|
|
dbogardus
Nov 4, 2009, 9:59 PM
Post #20 of 54
(12724 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2009
Posts: 148
|
sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: On a serious note, that boulder problem appeared to be longer than most sport routes. Why not give it a route rating? Because it was a boulder problem. Bouldering and routes have somehow changed their definition online. It's turned into "if it's longer and pumpy it's a route, if it's really short it's a boulder problem" - e.g. Wheel of life + sleepy rave are routes and Akira is a boulder problem. Route = climbed with gear + rope Boulder = you boulder it Knwameen?
gear doesnt define it being a route. what about people soloing?
|
|
|
|
|
kriso9tails
Nov 4, 2009, 10:00 PM
Post #21 of 54
(12721 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
|
sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: On a serious note, that boulder problem appeared to be longer than most sport routes. Why not give it a route rating? Because it was a boulder problem. Bouldering and routes have somehow changed their definition online. It's turned into "if it's longer and pumpy it's a route, if it's really short it's a boulder problem" - e.g. Wheel of life + sleepy rave are routes and Akira is a boulder problem. Route = climbed with gear + rope Boulder = you boulder it. Knwameen?
So that line Alex Honnold did up Half Dome is now an 1800' 1400' V6? Killer. I should probably bring an extra pad for that if I try it.
[can't remember how high Half Dome is to be honest]
(This post was edited by kriso9tails on Nov 4, 2009, 10:14 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Nov 4, 2009, 10:24 PM
Post #22 of 54
(12693 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
his chalk bag was draggin on the ground for half of the problem.. boulder problem.. boulder grade.
i also forsee it getting downgraded since i'm guessing most folks that strong will not think a v15 can have 3 huge rests.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Nov 4, 2009, 10:30 PM
Post #23 of 54
(12687 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
dbogardus wrote: sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: On a serious note, that boulder problem appeared to be longer than most sport routes. Why not give it a route rating? Because it was a boulder problem. Bouldering and routes have somehow changed their definition online. It's turned into "if it's longer and pumpy it's a route, if it's really short it's a boulder problem" - e.g. Wheel of life + sleepy rave are routes and Akira is a boulder problem. Route = climbed with gear + rope Boulder = you boulder it Knwameen? gear doesnt define it being a route. what about people soloing?
It's the same as the old "highball vs solo" debate. If the norm is to use gear then it's a route, if the norm is to boulder it (ie use pads and spotters but no rope) then it's a boulder problem.
Of course both of these are arbitrary labels which don't effect the actual rock at all so it really doesn't matter what they're called, I'm just portraying what seems to be the generally accepted "definitions" by those waste time pondering such things.
edit: on a side note I find it hilarious that I got 5 stars for saying "you're wrong and you deserve to die" but one star for saying you use gear on routes and mats on problems.
(This post was edited by sungam on Nov 4, 2009, 10:33 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Nov 4, 2009, 10:35 PM
Post #24 of 54
(12680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
a few observations:
1) 15+ bouldering pads count as gear (I know, I'm exaggerating for effect)
2) I've never seen the "slap the leg, stretch the palm" shake out technique - interesting.
3) the guy is smooth - he was flying through those moves = definition of dialed
4) totally wussed out at the end - he could have traversed into that v0 for another 15 feet, that would have added at least 2 more grades.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Nov 4, 2009, 10:54 PM
Post #25 of 54
(12659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
sungam wrote: edit: on a side note I find it hilarious that I got 5 stars for saying "you're wrong and you deserve to die" but one star for saying you use gear on routes and mats on problems.
You got one star because everyone hates you, but five because everyone hates me even more.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
