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mr.tastycakes
Nov 12, 2009, 7:29 PM
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A big ole hold has broken off the dreamtime boulder...
http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/11/11/dreamtime-has-broken/
i'm bored, so i figured i'd start a thread that might ruffle some feathers around here. At my shitty local bouldering area (central park, nyc) I know exactly what would happen if a key, or even not so key, hold broke: within a couple days that sucker would be epoxy'd back onto the rock.
So, to glue or not to glue?
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rockforlife
Nov 12, 2009, 7:40 PM
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mr.tastycakes wrote: A big ole hold has broken off the dreamtime boulder... http://www.b3bouldering.com/...reamtime-has-broken/ i'm bored, so i figured i'd start a thread that might ruffle some feathers around here. At my shitty local bouldering area (central park, nyc) I know exactly what would happen if a key, or even not so key, hold broke: within a couple days that sucker would be epoxy'd back onto the rock. So, to glue or not to glue?
fixed
And no, if a hold breaks off of the nose are people going to run back up there and epoxy it back on?
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nkane
Nov 12, 2009, 7:54 PM
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What are the local ethics? They should probably govern, no?
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subantz
Nov 12, 2009, 8:04 PM
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Isnt this the same boulder that had been chipped a wile back also. To hell with it its choss. Been defaced and needs to be left to rest in peace's. It has been tanked ever since some moron took a chisel to it. Down south it would result in a swift kick in the love sack.
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dlintz
Nov 12, 2009, 8:16 PM
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rockforlife wrote: mr.tastycakes wrote: A big ole hold has broken off the dreamtime boulder... http://www.b3bouldering.com/...reamtime-has-broken/ i'm bored, so i figured i'd start a thread that might ruffle some feathers around here. At my shitty local bouldering area (central park, nyc) I know exactly what would happen if a key, or even not so key, hold broke: within a couple days that sucker would be epoxy'd back onto the rock. So, to glue or not to glue? fixed And no, if a hold breaks off of the nose are people going to run back up there and epoxy it back on?
20+ move boulder problem = 30+ pitch route?
Try again.
d.
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raingod
Nov 12, 2009, 8:22 PM
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Maybe Dreamtime missed its glory days of being the worlds hardest problem, and decided to upgrade itself.
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subantz
Nov 12, 2009, 8:24 PM
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This made me laugh. Thanks sir I needed that!
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rockforlife
Nov 12, 2009, 8:26 PM
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dlintz wrote: rockforlife wrote: mr.tastycakes wrote: A big ole hold has broken off the dreamtime boulder... http://www.b3bouldering.com/...reamtime-has-broken/ i'm bored, so i figured i'd start a thread that might ruffle some feathers around here. At my shitty local bouldering area (central park, nyc) I know exactly what would happen if a key, or even not so key, hold broke: within a couple days that sucker would be epoxy'd back onto the rock. So, to glue or not to glue? fixed And no, if a hold breaks off of the nose are people going to run back up there and epoxy it back on? 20+ move boulder problem = 30+ pitch route? Try again. d.
No, Its does not matter, one of the best things about climbing is its not man made. Yes in this case we did break it, but so what, who's to say that one day it would not have come off on its own? then should we still glue it back on? The rock is ALWAYS changing some things get harder and some easier. we just have to deal with what happens.
If we really continue to glue holds back on to routes, then what do you have. An out door gym? Maybe not, but not far from it,
Edit: and what if a key hold on a free pitch came off?
(This post was edited by rockforlife on Nov 12, 2009, 8:28 PM)
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climboard
Nov 12, 2009, 8:35 PM
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You do realize that the Nose wouldn't be a free climb without the numerous man-made holds on it, don't you?
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kriso9tails
Nov 12, 2009, 8:37 PM
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rockforlife wrote: The rock is ALWAYS changing some things get harder and some easier. we just have to deal with what happens.
Deal with it by gluing the hold back on? Problem fixed!
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dynosore
Nov 12, 2009, 8:38 PM
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Here's a picture of Dreamtime when they were "cleaning" the holds. I heard they do all their routes this way in Europe.
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dlintz
Nov 12, 2009, 9:08 PM
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rockforlife wrote: dlintz wrote: rockforlife wrote: mr.tastycakes wrote: A big ole hold has broken off the dreamtime boulder... http://www.b3bouldering.com/...reamtime-has-broken/ i'm bored, so i figured i'd start a thread that might ruffle some feathers around here. At my shitty local bouldering area (central park, nyc) I know exactly what would happen if a key, or even not so key, hold broke: within a couple days that sucker would be epoxy'd back onto the rock. So, to glue or not to glue? fixed And no, if a hold breaks off of the nose are people going to run back up there and epoxy it back on? 20+ move boulder problem = 30+ pitch route? Try again. d. No, Its does not matter, one of the best things about climbing is its not man made. Yes in this case we did break it, but so what, who's to say that one day it would not have come off on its own? then should we still glue it back on? The rock is ALWAYS changing some things get harder and some easier. we just have to deal with what happens. If we really continue to glue holds back on to routes, then what do you have. An out door gym? Maybe not, but not far from it, Edit: and what if a key hold on a free pitch came off?
I see your point but I wonder how many people have attempted Dreamtime versus climbed the Nose. Glueing a hold back onto a V15 boulder problem won't be a watershed moment in route/problem modification, that is it won't inspire the masses to start bringing epoxy with them to the crags.
d.
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CrazyPetie
Nov 13, 2009, 4:44 AM
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I think because of the stigma surrounding Dreamtime, it would only be right to glue the hold back on. People who want to climb dreamtime, want to climb the dreamtime that Fred Nichole and Chris Sharma climbed. Its already chipped, might as well be glued IMO.
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johnwesely
Nov 13, 2009, 4:46 AM
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climboard wrote: You do realize that the Nose wouldn't be a free climb without the numerous man-made holds on it, don't you?
HERESY!!!
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johnwesely
Nov 13, 2009, 4:47 AM
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CrazyPetie wrote: I think because of the stigma surrounding Dreamtime, it would only be right to glue the hold back on. People who want to climb dreamtime, want to climb the dreamtime that Fred Nichole and Chris Sharma climbed. Its already chipped, might as well be glued IMO.
I kind of want to climb the new Dreamtime.
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notapplicable
Nov 13, 2009, 5:18 AM
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The real question is how do you justify the cost of the glue it would take to put the hold back on?
I mean, this is bouldering we're talking about right. Wouldn't those pennies be better spent on...oh I don't know...a Tootsie Roll or something?
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mleogrande
Nov 13, 2009, 5:40 AM
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I just looked at Sharma on YouTube climbing Dreamtime so I could see the moves using this hold that broke off. This hold looks super important. Looks like he graps it at 1:14 in the video clip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoYjuLWggto
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notapplicable
Nov 13, 2009, 5:55 AM
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or perhaps some JuicyFruit
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fist
Nov 13, 2009, 6:04 AM
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notapplicable wrote: Since i don't like bouldering I'm gonna make fun of anyone who does, because my opinion matters |
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irregularpanda
Nov 13, 2009, 6:33 AM
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johnwesely wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: I think because of the stigma surrounding Dreamtime, it would only be right to glue the hold back on. People who want to climb dreamtime, want to climb the dreamtime that Fred Nichole and Chris Sharma climbed. Its already chipped, might as well be glued IMO. I kind of want to climb the new Dreamtime.
Skip the hold with the obvious epoxy holding it in place, if that's what happens.
And let the local ethics reign.
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meahtots
Nov 13, 2009, 6:36 AM
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To me, this shouldn't even be an issue. The hold broke, and the route changes. There are so many other routes that we shouldn't get worked up on this boulder.
Saying that because it's already chipped, might as well be glued really doesn't help at all. Sort of an eye for an eye argument.
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airscape
Nov 13, 2009, 9:16 AM
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How many people climb V15? You glue the hold back on to sustain traffic of about 2 to 3 persons/year?
If a route is famous and a hold breaks off , Put a plaque. "Dreamtine was here."
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dan2see
Nov 13, 2009, 11:29 AM
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I could never do any boulder problem anywhere near that hard, so I gotta keep my opinion to myself, and leave the glue/no-glue for those who can.
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lostlazy
Nov 13, 2009, 11:59 AM
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climboard wrote: You do realize that the Nose wouldn't be a free climb without the numerous man-made holds on it, don't you?
So if an essential handhold (man-made or not) was to break on the Nose, or otherwise go missing somehow, who is ultimately responsible for "repairing" the route ?
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johnwesely
Nov 13, 2009, 1:06 PM
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notapplicable wrote: The real question is how do you justify the cost of the glue it would take to put the hold back on? I mean, this is bouldering we're talking about right. Wouldn't those pennies be better spent on...oh I don't know...a Tootsie Roll or something?
Beanies aren't cheap either. Most boulderers have to save to their lunch money for weeks, less common, or sell their shirt, much more common, to afford one.
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